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Old Oct 7th, 2009, 08:34 AM
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Day Trip to Ischia

I'll be in Naples in a week or so and am trying to figure out whether a day trip to Ischia would be viable or whether I should aim for a smaller, simpler target (i.e. Procida). ! have the boat schedules and understand that there are buses doing the circular route around the island. and will have one of the unicocampania cards that would cover these. We would prefer public transport and walking to taxis or rental car.

What would be the highpoints to visit? Wa are walkers and like interesting scenery, gardens, art and museums as well as good food. Right now Im thinking about La Mortella, the museum and related sights in Lacco Ameno and possibly lunch at Il Focolare (in fact Ive rearranged our trip schedule so that lunch there might be possible.)

Any reactions or additional or alternative suggestions of great places to visit/see? How would you spend an active fall day in Ischia? Do you think it is possible to get to Il Focolare by bus/walking or is a taxi necesary? Is it worth all this fuss as a lunch destination? Is there a special place to buy local food products or wines?
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Old Oct 7th, 2009, 09:31 AM
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The bus system is excellent and the "deposito" is just a few steps from the ferry docks in Ischia Porto.

I had planned for a dinner at Il Focolare and once I reached the island, I learned that it is not accessible by bus. I was told this by more than one person; you could double check if you wish, but my guess is that you would need to take a taxi. I would advise sending them an e-mail and asking.

You can find local wines in many food shops, but as far as foods produced on the island, I did not see too many transportable items other than dried spices, jams, etc. There are agriturismi that sell their products, too.

You would certainly want to visit Sant Angelo to fulfill the scenery quotient. You can reach there by the same bus that drops you near La Mortella. And you could do a walk to Mt. Epomeo--weather prevented us from doing this so I cannot advise.
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Old Oct 7th, 2009, 11:46 AM
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So sorry not to get a take from you on Il Focolare. I will take your advice and send an email. Im looking forward to hearing what you ate elsewhere and what you enjoyed.

were there good trails or paths in the San Angelo area?
Is info about this sort of thing in the local tourist office?

Do you think Ischia is small enuf (I dont have a sense of the size yet) to make a day trip practicable?
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Old Oct 7th, 2009, 02:19 PM
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I wish I could help but we did not do any hiking. And I never visited the tourist office so it looks as if I am striking out here on the help front! I do think it is small enough because the public transport is good. I would get an early start from Naples, though.
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Old Oct 8th, 2009, 06:57 AM
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thanks and yes, since I see that the last boat leaving for the mainland is quite early - before 7 pm!

I took your advice and emailed Il Focolare, and guess what, the proprietor said that it was possible to get up there by bus, the No. 16 from Piazza Marina in Cassamicciola. So we will have a transportation adventure on our first day in Italy.

Do you know by chance how long it takes for the CS and CD buses to make the full circuit of the island? It looks like we will be more rushed than I had hoped.
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Old Oct 8th, 2009, 08:49 AM
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I am so happy that you can get there by bus. That just goes to show you how one should ask and ask again--at least 3 people told me that there was no bus and since we had discovered a place that we adored (to come in the trip report) I did not pursue it as much as I might have. A very good lesson for me, however.


You do need to find out how often the #16 bus runs. There is a bus schedule online--see if you can find it and if not, I will look for the paper copy that I think I brought home.




I received several responses as to the question of how long the circuit takes. Everything from an hour to 2.5 hours! I am sure that it depends on traffic in the towns, but I am guessing more like 90 minutes maximum. There is a bottleneck of sorts near Panza. From there the bus goes to Sant Angelo and then backtracks. You can see this on the map of the island.

What time if the earliest ferry from Naples?
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Old Oct 14th, 2009, 07:41 AM
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We have our booking for lunch this sunday at Il focolare, but now I am getting nervous because of negative weather predictions.

I need a backup lunch plan, because they only servce lunch on weekends and we may have to switch the day of our visit to the Island. So, can anybody recommend a very good restaurant in ISCHIA that serves weekday lunches in the offseason??? EKS?
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Old Oct 14th, 2009, 08:57 AM
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also I am wondering if there is a baggage storage area at the Molo Beverello or on the Ischia Porto side-
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Old Oct 14th, 2009, 09:46 AM
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jjkbrook: You and ekscrunchy may both be correct. Knowing how the people of Ischia think, the bus may take you to a certain point and then you have to hike the rest of the way.That's what they call being able to take the bus there. That's the way many restaurants are. I don't go to restaurants in Ischia, but we did pass one when we were up there and it could have been il Focolare. In Sant Angelo there is a big mound/mountain/whatever (you can see it in pictures) There used to be a restaurant up there and you had to climb on a tiny path around to get up there.

You won't have any trouble finding places to hike. The hills are steep. No cars are allowed in Sant Angelo. The bus stops up the hill and you walk down to the village. Then you can take any stairway and climb, climb, climb. There are all sorts of pathways. It isn't woodsy. People live up there. It's hard to explain unless you go and do it.

If you want woodsy hiking, I think you can get maps online by searching. I'm not interested in hiking there because each family member we visit is up steep and high. We're exhausted by the time we go home.
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Old Oct 14th, 2009, 10:43 AM
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JJK: I understand your frustration! I keep looking for lunch places but the inland places I want to share seem to be open only on Sunday for lunch.

There is a wine bar in Ischia Porto run by one of the D'Ambra's of the winemaking family. the name is Enoteca Pane e Vino, Via Porto, 24. This is a listing from the Capalbo book on Campanian food, but I did not try it.
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Old Oct 14th, 2009, 11:11 AM
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thanks, that one might indeed be an option - I may have to forego the "land cuisine" if things fall apart -where did you wind up eating your lunches?
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Old Oct 14th, 2009, 12:24 PM
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I might ruin my carefully cultivated reputation by revealing this, but we did not eat any lunches! We had large breakfasts most days and decided to forego lunches while on the island!
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Old Oct 14th, 2009, 12:49 PM
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At least you did not ruin a body! We cant do it this way - lunch is usually our main meal in Italy and my husband is an early bird/relatively lighter eater. Also, I dont like to waste calories on breakfast foods, usually. thanks anyway!
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Old Oct 14th, 2009, 01:34 PM
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I agree about the breakfast foods! The truth is that tempting places in accessible areas seemed rather thin on the ground, or at least this is the impression that I got from a brief visit. I feel terrible that I cannot be of more help about the lunches...

We did find one superlative eating place but again, not open for lunch.
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Old Dec 18th, 2010, 09:04 AM
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As this thread seems to be referred to quite frequently, perhaps I can bring a few things up to date?

For background, Ischia is 46km2 in area - about 18 square miles - which is roughly the same as Oxford in the UK, or perhaps 2/3 the size of Manhattan Island, and that makes it the 6th largest (*) of Italy's islands... 3rd by population.

Give or take the day's traffic, the round-island CS and CD buses are scheduled to do the circuit in about 100 minutes.

For more on where each line goes, the cost of tickets, where to get them etc etc, try:
http://www.pbase.com/isolaverde/beginisc

............................................

Currently the Naples-bound hydrofoils finish at 19:20, and the last Caremar ferry leaves at 20:10 - although until recently (and again in the New Year, or so it's hoped) a final ship was leaving Ischia Porto at 22.00, and then turning round at Naples to set off for here again at midnight.
............................................

The island's so little-known that nearly everybody first comes on just a daytrip - as we ourselves did - and gets only a correspondingly quick glimpse: my own selection of the most enjoyable and/or interesting things on offer to visitors is here...
http://www.pbase.com/isolaverde/iscstars

............................................

Pane e Vino was opened by the late Corrado d'Ambra (a cousin of Forio's "Casa d'Ambra" winery family) to promote the wines of his own vineyard, which sat in the hills up above Ischia Porto - 'Il Giardino Mediterraneo'.

After his untimely death in 2005, the name was retained but it turned into more of a restaurant - although last week we saw that it was closed up, with a "Cedesi" sign in the window....

The guy who had made it what it was - the enormous, and enormously welcoming, Sicilian chef, Raimondo Triolo - opened his own place in 2007, further along the harbour front: the enoteca "Un Attimo di Vino"...

http://www.pbase.com/isolaverde/image/112946894

.............................................

Getting up to Riccardo D'Ambra's restaurant - Il Focolare - is actually quite simple, though there are two things to note!

If driving - although in Barano comune, it's nowhere at all near the town of that name; instead take Via Cretaio from Casamicciola...
http://www.pbase.com/isolaverde/image/129644076

On public transport - the route of the number 16 bus is rather like a figure 8, as it doubles back through the same central point, Piazza Marina - which can be seen on that same map. Catch it from there, on the appropriate leg of the journey, and you'll arrive in less than 15 minutes. It's no great distance, so a taxi shouldn't be an overly expensive alternative?

For more details, including a note on its times, see...
http://www.pbase.com/isolaverde/image/113286366

.............................................

And there are all too many more pictures from around the island, and some information and tips that may be useful, in the various photogalleries that start here...

http://www.pbase.com/isolaverde/allaboutischia

Peter

(*) If I've got it right, the list of the ten largest goes: Sicily, Sardinia, Elba, Pantelleria, Asinara, Ischia, Lipari, Salina, Vulcano, Lampedusa.
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Old Dec 18th, 2010, 12:42 PM
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Thanks so much for the update. We are fortunate to have a "man on the scene" in Ischia!

The continuing mystery is why the island is so overlooked, even ignored, by people on this forum. Many people seem to regard the island as the province of German visitors but in reality, we saw few tourists of any nationality during our visit in mid September of last year.
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Old Dec 19th, 2010, 09:21 AM
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Personally, I've always thought some Yalta or Potsdam-style meeting of travel agents was held, to carve up the Bay of Naples - with the British getting Sorrento, the Americans Capri, and the Germans Ischia?

You may like this - the bi-lingual reproduction of an article from the April 1954 "National Geographic" - that tells of the time before tourism, with some great photos....

http://www.larassegnadischia.it/Isch...naspettata.pdf

It's a fairly big PDF, and may be rather slow - but worth waiting for, as I think you'll agree!

Peter
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Old Dec 19th, 2010, 09:35 AM
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"Personally, I've always thought some Yalta or Potsdam-style meeting of travel agents was held, to carve up the Bay of Naples - with the British getting Sorrento, the Americans Capri, and the Germans Ischia?"

LOL!!!!

Ischia is actually in my sights not for the next trip I am taking, but for the next one I am planning after that. So I will continue to read these posts with interest.
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Old Dec 20th, 2010, 10:48 AM
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I was planning to come on and update a couple of things so you encouraged me to spend a couple minutes:

Ischia is not shut down in the winter. Even Sant Angelo has a couple of stores open and a couple of restaurants. Casamicciola and Ischia Ponte are both very open at least in the month of December. In the first week of December the decorations were up and the creches were up. We spent a wonderful evening walking around. Forio was about half open. Over Christmas week even Sant Angelo is mostly open.

My relatives are in the tourism business and wonder why Americans don't come. I don't know. I don't think travel agents get a commission...I could be wrong, but the hotels I know won't pay commissions.

I don't know about hotels. I know Forio has a couple open in the winter. Some of the hotels on the island are offering spa packages over the winter.

Hotels in Ischia don't cater to Americans like they are used to. Capri does cater more. In Ischia they are more European.....ie: you may not get air conditioning...you won't get a coffee pot in your room (this was mentioned in another post), etc.

We just got back last week and totally loved it in winter. Usually we go in spring and/or fall to see the family. This time we went for a wedding. We were fortunate. We were picking oranges from the tree two weeks ago and the next week there was an incredibly rare snow!
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