Trav_Eller

I'm slowly finalising sections of my itinerary for May-June 2011.

At this stage I look like arriving in Milan from Switzerland around Monday 23rd May. I'm booked to depart from Budapest to St Petersburg on Friday 3rd June. The eleven nights between those dates are open.

I have lots of options and initially I included Dubrovnik in all of them. But the more I look at the travel planning, the more difficult that option seems. Currently I'm considering a ferry to Dubrovnik and leaving by bus and train via Ploce and Sarajevo. So my first question is how essential is it to include Dubrovnik?

If I commence in Rijeka (via Ljubjlana) and use buses and ferries to wander down the coast to Split, the villages between and some islands, then return by bus or train to Zagreb before taking the train from Zagreb to Budapest on the 2nd June, what do I miss by missing Dubrovnik that I can't see in other locations along that route? And my next question is what are the must-sees along that route in Dalmatia and from the coast to Zagreb?

All suggestions welcomed.

Cheers, Alan
http://loraltravel.blogspot.com/

wingscalgary

A trip to Dalmatia wouldn't be complete without a stop on Hvar Island, especially in May-June. This time of year, the weather is beautiful with tons of sunshine. Plus, you'll miss the crowds that descend and the high season prices that the vendors/hotels charge in July-August. Water sports and bumming around town and in Stari Grad were favorites of mine. If you are looking for a hotel recommendation, look at the Adriana. Nice hotel, lots of good amenities, and friendly people.

julia_t

Dubrovnik is the most beautiful city in Europe. It is quite different to anywhere else, being completely encircled by walls that you can walk all around. The views are incredible, out across the city with its red roofs and out over the sparkling Adriatic Sea.

I love Dubrovnik, but realise it is not for everyone. There is so much more I could tell you about it, but then so will a good guidebook. I will try to answer any specific questions you may have.

Split is not at all the same. Trogir is not the same though there are some architectural similarities.

Could you perhaps fly from Dubrovnik up to Zagreb? Otherwise you will be backtracking quite a bit.

While I thoroughly recommend a visit to Sarajevo, I don't think you will have enough time to include it. Although you can fly from Sarajevo to Budapest on Malev Air quite reasonably, and it's much quicker than taking the train Sarajevo-Zagreb which takes a good 8 hours.

For what it's worth, I've been to Dubrovnik 3 times, and am planning a return to Sarajevo in 2011. Such incredible histories.

aussiedreamer

My vote is to include Dubrovnik, we loved it. Even in the pouring down rain for the first 2 days, its a beautiful city. When the sun did come out we walked the full length of the wall, just superb. Its one of the cleanist city's I've visited. Split on the other hand, apart from the harbour area was a real let down. We enjoyed our day trip to Korkula Island and Mostar Bosnia from our great base inside the walls of Dubrovnik.

Trav_Eller

Thanks for the comments. Still deciding...

Plan B. I'm toying with the idea of missing the rest of Dalamatia completely, going to Dubrovnik for a few days from Switzerland by train and then ferry from Ancona, then taking the train to Sarajeveo for a couple of days, then the train to Zagreb for a couple more days.

So many options.

Plan C involves rail via Interlaken, Ljubjlana and Rijeka, but no Dubrovnik.

Mimar

I'd hate to see you miss out on Dubrovnik. Easyjet is supposed to fly from Milan to Dubrovnik, but no such flights seem to be loaded into their schedule currently. Croatia Airlines flies from Rome to Dubrovnik.

Rijeka is convenient for the train but not very attractive in itself. And we skipped Zagreb. But we had a car.

You seem to have a fairly wide-ranging trip planned. Do look into cheap flights to supplement trains and buses. Helpful sites are www.whichbudget.com and www.skyscanner.net

Trav_Eller

I have regularly tried the Easyjet site, but had the same problem you found. The route maps show flights to Milan and Geneva - but no schedules are listed and they can't be booked for May. I may go from Rome, but it seems a long way around; I've been to Rome before. And I could go via Zagreb, but didn't really want to visit twice; but still a possibility.

Unfortunately the ferries from Italy seem to start running on 30th May,the week after I need them. So it has to be air or coastal ferries (if they are running by then) or buses. Still thinking

Thanks for all the input. Has anyone reading taken the Ploce-Sarajevo-Zagreb rail route in either direction?

Cheers, Alan
http://loraltravel.blogspot.com/

katie1984

I spent 4 days in Dubrovnik and I can't wait to go back. In my opinion, no trip to Croatia is complete without a trip to Dubrovnik. (I've been to Zagreb and would've been fine never going there - it's a pretty city but Vienna, Budapest, etc. are much prettier). There is no train station in Dubrovnik, but there are buses from Dubrovnik to Sarajevo that will take about 5 hours and cost about $25 or so. Also, if you take the hour-long bus ride from Dubrovnik to Ploce (about 60 miles north) you can hop on the train to Sarajevo - a 4 hour train ride.

I've never taken the Ploce-Sarajevo-Zagreb route, but I've done Sarajevo-Dubrovnik and back via bus, and Sarajevo-Zagreb via train. Also, I've done the train from Zagreb-Ljubljana and it was 13 euros going and 17 returning and about 2 hours total. The train from Sarajevo-Zagreb is long, especially if you go during the day, but you leave mid morning and get to Zagreb in the evening, and a one-way ticket is only about $60 (buy on the train in cash or in the station before in cash - I did it in June in the station so prices should be the same).

I think there are flights Dubrovnik-Rome on Easyjet, but just remember that you will get nickel and dimed on Easyjet, so in my opinion the train is the way to go and from Slovenia you can take it around to Italy quite easily, or vice-versa.

I am bias against Sarajevo because I spent 8 weeks there but it is, in my opinion a city that can't be missed. That being said, if you only have a day in Sarajevo it may not be worth it - though it is a 25 minute walk from the train station which is next to the famous Holiday Inn to the pedestrian part of town and you can have a nice cup of coffee or Sarajevsko beer on Ferhadija and some cevapcici before making your way back to the train station for a night train.

So, to summarize, Dubrovnik is not to be missed and it will be amazing while you're there. If you can squeeze Sarajevo into your trip that will be amazing too. It's an hour bus ride to Ploce (just north past the Bosnian coastal border) and you can hop on a train there to either Sarajevo (about $20 give or take) or Zagreb. The day train from Sarajevo-Zagreb is painless and pretty, and relatively inexpensive. Just remember, credit cards are generally not accepted outside of big/tourist cities.

If you have any other questions I'd be happy to answer them!

kja

> you can have a nice cup of coffee or Sarajevsko beer on Ferhadija and some cevapcici

Indeed, but if I am fortunate enough to return to Sarajevo, I would walk through Ferhadija to the Turkish Quarter (Bascarsija).

Vttraveler

My husband and I recently spent 9 1/2 days in Sarajevo and the Dalmation coast in and near Dubrovnik. this was a good combination for us. Both Croatia and BiH are fascinating places to explore. We haven't been to Zagreb so I can't comment on that city.

The train from Ploce to Sarajevo goes through Mostar so you could do an overnight there as well if you take that route.

Trav_Eller

Thanks again all - still investigating and all the information is gratefully received. I hadn't thought of overnighting in Mostar. Hmmm...

Incidentally, I am a trainophile. This trip is part of a rail journey through Europe. So far the intention is Stansted-London-Paris-Zermatt-Chur-Tirano-Milan all by rail, followed by the Croatian/BiH section I'm looking at. So long train journeys are not a problem.

If any of you are train buffs and ever come to Oz, here is a bit of nostalgia for a route which has disappeared, although 3/4 of it is still in service: http://loraltraveloz.blogspot.com/20...t-railway.html

Sadly, I've not kept that blog up to date lately.

Cheers, Alan
http://loraltravel.blogspot.com/

Vttraveler

The train trip from the coast to sarajevo should be spectacular. We drove parts of the route and could see the tracks in places. We were going to take the Sarajevo to Mostar train trip but ended up not doing that due to timing/logistics. Lots of tunnels for a train buff!

tcreath

In my opinion no trip to Croatia would be complete without a visit to Dubrovnik. I've traveled quite a bit in Europe and it's one of my absolute favorites. I also enjoyed Zagreb quite a bit, but would never choose it over Dubrovnik if I had a choice.

Tracy

Snowflake25

I would certainly recommend an overnight in Mostar. You avoid the crowds from the tour buses as they leave in the afternoon and don't return until late morning. That gives you most of the evening and the next morning to tour about without shoulder to shoulder crowds. We stayed at the villa Anri and it was wonderful, close to the river, fantastic view of the bridge and an easy walk to the old town.

shishmish

Dubrovnik is a must! Southern Dalmatia is considerably different from the rest of Croatia and it would be a shame to miss the Pearl of the Adriatic!
You might want to check out www.jadrolinija.hr for a boat schedule. There should be a regular (year-long) boat from Rijeka stopping in Zadar to Bari (Italy) that stops over in Split and in Dubrovnik. It is a long ride, but a beautiful one since you see pretty much the entire Croatian coast.

christycruz

I also recommend taking the time to see Dubrovnik.

We took the train to Zagreb, and then flew from Zagreb to Dubrovnik using Croatia Air. It was easy and cheap. We island-hopped our way back up the coast.

Trav_Eller

Thanks to all who helped me make up my mind. The eventual itinerary for the Balkans section is:

Wednesday. Rail Milan-Venice-Zagreb (Overnight)
Thursday. Zagreb (booked BW)
Friday. Croatia Air(bkd) Zagreb - Dubrovnik (accom open)
Saturday. Dubrovnik
Sunday. Dubrovnik
Monday Bus or Rail to Mostar (open)
Tuesday Rail to Sarajevo (open)
Wednesday. Sarajevo
Thursday. Malev Air(bkd) Sarajevo - Budapest (hotel bkd)
Friday. Malev Air(bkd) Budapest- St Petersburg

I actually enjoy travelling in trains, so that is not as hectic as it looks. En-route to the north I spend a week in Kerala and Kuala Lumpur, the week before Croatia is spent in France and Switzerland (Eurostar, Lyria, Glacier and Bernina Expresses), the week following is on the boat from St Petersburg to Moscow and the week after that I'll be wandering the UK in a Fiat.

Trains, planes and automobiles. I like to cover a bit of distance in my wanders

I'd appreciate any recommendations on accomodation in the old town of Dubrovnik, and also for Mostar and Sarajevo.

julia_t

Dubrovnik - I loved staying here, literally right on the wall overlooking the harbour

http://www.dubrovnik-online.com/house_renata/

I've also stayed up the hill in 2 different apartments, but prefer Renata's rooms.

Mostar - the Kriva Cuprija in the heart of the old town, steps from the famous Stari Most.

http://www.motel-mostar.ba/

Sarajevo - I stayed at this lovely little hotel for 2 nights last year, very close to the Sebilj fountain at the top of the Bascarsija, with delightful friendly and helpful staff who speak good English. Very clean.

http://www.hotelsafir.ba/engleski/index.php

When I return to Sarajevo in April I'm renting an apartment as I'll be there for 6 nights. I'm using this agency and staying in the Strossmayer apartment, but they also have a small apartment overlooking the river which might suit you.

http://www.sarajevohome.com/en/home

All these are budget choices - Renata's room is around 20 euros, the Kriva Cuprija is 39 euros for single occupancy, the Hotel Safir 50 euros, the large 2-bedroom apartment 55 euros.

Vttraveler

As I mentioned in my trip report, we enjoyed the Hotel Michele in Sarajevo
http://www.hotelmichele.ba/

Trav_Eller

Thank you Julia and vttraveler. Emails sent to all.