In Cesky Krumlov we spent three days at the hotel Zlaty Andel for $67 US per night and one night at Pensione Vltava for $27 per night. Both were very nice. A few more amenities at the former--tv, but not CNN, not as many stairs to climb with bags to get to our room, directly on the square, etc. However, the Pension Vltava couldn't be beat for the price. Very clean, nice breakfast, large room, good location. I recommend both highly.

Julie, this was a wonderful trip report. We are still not convinced about driving, but are at least considering it now. How long is the trip by car from Cesky Krumlov to Karlovy Vary? Did you rent your car before you left home or did you rent it after you arrived in Prague? We have driven in several countries, but in recent years have been using trains and buses. It seems to be better for our marriage -- less stress. However, trains and buses may not be the best solution for this trip.

Julie - Thanks for the informative report. I'l be visiting Prague in October. Thanks for the restaurant reviews - I'm a bit of a chowhound / foodie / zagatonian. I'm also a secession / jugenstil / modernista / liberte / art nouveau fan - incredible period. Once again thanks.

SuSu, I understand about drivers wanting to go by train instead of car and about the diffculties of being sniped at while trying to navigate. There's just not as many road, as much congestion, etc. in CZ Republic to get screwed up in. It really is easier than driving say in Italy. For one thing almost everyone goes slower. <BR><BR>It's about 175 km from Prague to Cesky Krumlov. We detoured to Kutna Hora enroute and spent time having lunch and seeing the cathedral there, Allowing for that and leaving about 9 a.m. from Prague we were in CK by 5 p.m. You could be there by lunch if you don't make stops enroute.<BR><BR>We booked our car by internet from the US via Auto Europe. Picked it up as we were leaving Prague (you do not want a car while you're in Prague--or any other large city for that matter)got map and instructions from the Auto Europe man (who, incidentally was at the Intercontinental Hotel, so very easy to find) and had no problem leaving the city. CK is a walled city so it's a little harder to get into when you're not sure where you're going. Park outside, find the tourist office or just some helpful English speaking soul and get directions to your hotel. Nothing's very far, it's just a little confusing as most walled, small splaces are when you first encounter them. <BR><BR>Distance from CK to Karlovy Vary is about 250 km. We stopped at Marienbad (Marianske Lazny) another beautiful spa town, enroute. Again, with that stop and a lunch we were probably in KV by 4-5 p.m. or so. Time spent on the road was not "wasted time" though. It was one of the highlights of the trip itself. Countryside is so unspoiled and beautiful. <BR><BR>I was so glad that another Fodorite had implored us to drive that I just have to re-emphasize his good advice. I understand that train connections for this route would really try one's patience. When the driving is so easy and beautiful, why opt for the aggravation? <BR><BR>Mark, sounds like you share my passions completely. Now the combination of good food and art nouveau decor is really the ultimate and it's available in Prague in spades. Brought back some postcards with Mucha models on them that I purchased at the Mucha museum. Had them mounted (3 in one frame and 4 in another) and framed and am in the process of hanging them. Such cheap purchases make terrific momentoes and look good on the walls--also look a lot more costly than they are. <BR><BR>Enjoy your trips folks.

Julie -<BR>You may want to look at " Art Nouveau 1890-1914 " by Paul Greenhalgh. A beautiful book that discusses the art nouveau movment in numerous countries - US, Czech, Hungary, Austria, Russia, Sweden, etc. Incredible photographs - good text. Check Amazon - they sell it for $53, list price is $75.

Julie -<BR>I'm not sure where you reside but if you live in the NYC area Bard Graduate Center in Decorative Arts (86th + Central Park West ) is having a show called " Hungarian Ceramics from the Zsolnay Manufactory, 1853-2001" beginning July 17. It's Zsolnay's first retrospective ever in America and will have many secession / art nouveau objects. www.bgc.bard.edu

Gosh. Thanks for the info on Art Nouveau books and exhibits. I think there is a core group on this site with interest in the topic. I know I stop to see anything I can in that vein.

Hi Julie,<BR><BR>Your report is great!! I work for a television travel show in Canada and I'm doing research for Prague. Do you think that there are enough activities in Kalovy Vary to fill a 30 minute TV show or is it just a beautiful little town with hot springs??

Topping for the person trying to fill 5 days in Prague. Just quickly breezed through this and didn't find the book-filled monastery on Castle Hill included. Someone else mentioned it and I would second the recommendation. A terrific place. Enjoy Prague. It's terrific.

Thank you Julie.