Cruising the Seine
 

Is it possible to have mostly sunny days and no rain in Normandy in April? That was our fortunate experience in a recent cruise by Grand Circle Travel. This was our 6th trip with GCT which we would recommend...still debating which is better, river cruise or land travel. Yes, we've traveled on our own in the past, also with various tour groups. What you have with GCT is a planned tour with optional trips...well managed schedule and guides and with a cruise really wonderful dining.

So we had a few hours in Paris, then bus over to LaHavre to board the M/S Bizet. Honfluer harbor is under repair. But we did tour this picturesque town once the major port. Highlights in that area: Normandy D Day beaches and Bayeaux Tapestry. There is a new peace memorial at Caen worth seeing. The Norman countryside was very green, except for lots of yellow canola plant blooms.

The ship set forth upstream docking at various ports. In Caudebec we found a great open market, and from there set forth for Etretat. This town and beach is famous for the white cliffs and key hole cliff painted by Monet. Lots of people on the beach this Sunday. Over to Fecamp Castle we discovered Benedictine Liqueur, a rediscovered ancient formula of 27 spices being produced.

A walk through Rouen began at the famed cathedral painted by Monet. Although bombed especially in outlying areas the older center still has many half timbered houses. A modern St. Joan of Arc church has stained glass windows from a bombed out one...and a little garden marks where Joan of Arc was burned at the stake. Also a drive to Wandrille Abby. So many cherry trees in bloom.

Noticed several ferries instead of bridges. On we cruised to Les Andelys and the ruins of Chateau Gaillard, one a castle, then a royal residence. Ship next docked at Vernon for a trip to Giverny where the artist Claude Monet spent the last half of his life. The gardens are indeed lovely and so many flowers in bloom. The Japanese bridge spans the pool and later water lilies will bloom. You can tour the Monet house as well.

In the afternoon we visited in the home of a local resident. Francois was our host living in a remodeled barn now a very nice home. Served spice cake and cider. The home hosted visit is a specialty of GCT. Next stop was Auvers sur Oise, interesting as the place Vincent VanGogh spent his final 70 days. A steep incline takes you to the little church and then also further the wheatfield both painted by VanGogh. Then a path to the cemetery where Vincent and brother Theo are buried.

On board ship there are informative talks and cheese tasting and a French lesson and more. By the way, a pity you can't take any cheese home because the French use unpasteurized milk. We paused alongside LaRoche Guyon which was once a castle lookout...at the time so the English would be on guard about the French (yes Normandy was English for a time as you know). This was headquarters for Marshall Rommel during WWII.

Many took a tour of Versailles palace which we'd seen in 1982 so instead we strolled through the market at Conflans. This is the barge capital of France...so many boats of all sizes docked along the banks on into Paris. All along the way we entered locks to raise the ship up. Then the day came when we cruised into Paris. I watched on deck and finally the Eiffel Tower came into view. We docked along the bank not so far away.

Guided bus tour of Paris the next day and then through the Louvre Museum. That is enough especially with the crowds to tire anyone out. Here and throughout we had headphones and that was a big help hearing your guide. A final highlight of the trip was the night dinner cruise on the Seine through Paris. Many lights along the banks and a full moon. And the Eiffel Tower lit up and for a time sparkling lights. Some remained for a few days in Paris but at our age enough is enough.

So there it is...if you travel GCT tell them i sent you. www.gct.com

Bill in Boston

Great report. Thanks for sharing. Brings back memories, as we did that same route; Honfleur to Paris, when we did or first French river/canal cruise in 1972 in our own boat

Sounds as though you had a wonderful time. Thanks Bill, for the report.

Did you spend any extra time in Paris?

Good report. The boat community of Conflans Sainte Honorine is indeed a sight worth seeing in itself.

Glad to hear from some of you. Sorry to say no extra time in Paris...a regret but at our "advanced" age probably best. We were indeed wearing down. Our son (dir. African Studies at BU) says he will someday take us himself to Paris. But then our daughter married to a Quebecois is also fluent in French.

I had read a report of someone who barged the Seine..."Secret Life of the Seine."

It was great to read your report. We're taking the same cruise on the same boat in July, only starting in Paris. I would love to ask you lots of questions but at this point don't even know what to ask. This is obviously my first trip to France but notice I said "first". I'm glad you enjoyed it and glad to hear of your good reports relative to Grand Circle Travel.

Hi dgarland...tell you what. I could email you my trip journal which I composed from notes...to send to family, to help me remember what we've seen, to ID where photos were taken. Send your email to [email protected].

I can only hope you have the sunny days. Didn't say much about the food on M/S/ Bizet but it is truly fabulous. You'll be tasting things you never knew about! We have no complaints about this cruise! Glad to answer specific questions later.

Are you booked for the pre and post cruise trips? Although we didn't this time we did so previously on Springtime in Holland & Belgium waterways trip two years ago.

Bill in Boston

Loved your report. What a lovely way to see some parts of France.

Tell us----does it make you want to go back for more?

Thanks TPAYT. Go back for more? Oh yes, and so many other places come to mind that I would love to revisit...in Ireland, Bergen, Israel, Florence, Innsbruck, Prague, Cape Town, Holland, Brugge, Salamanca, and many more overseas and in the U. S. incl. Hawaii. But at age 80 how much time do I have left?

As for France, for sure more time in Paris would be a treat and also seeing other parts of the country. More likely will be travel in Germany such as a cruise on the Elbe R. or maybe even China or Buenos Aires. Meanwhile, with Spring here lots of places in New England! Love Concord, Maine coast. Might again go to Bangor for the folk festival.

Bill in Boston

This was in the comic section of the Boston Globe. Do you know why the French always look so pouty? Because the photographer asks them to say "Fromage."

Sorry...Bill in Boston

Hi Bill, glad you had such a good time with GCT. I have taken many tours but never with that group. They were most congenial, I presume? What are the pluses and minuses of traveling with that GCT, if any? One never tires of France. You sound spunky and likely to return to Europe to visit or re-visit favorite sites. [I feel that we are neighbors – just down Route 128 in Lynnfield :)]

We have traveled many ways over the years...camping, conferences, festivals, guided tours, cruises. Elderhostel now called Road Scholar has provided many educational vacations (been to 35)...two top ones to Ireland and Hawaii.

Grand Circle Travel ranks very high with us (6 times) in all categories. Similar to Road Scholar there is a learning component with GCT...and in fact a deliberate thrust to challenge Americans to think beyond the box. I could go further about this. So it is more than just a travel company in my estimate, i.e., sightseeing per se.

Bill in Boston [email protected]

Actually latedaytraveler, we live in Watertown. Moved a year ago from Missouri. Noting your interest in WWII history you would surely appreciate the D Day landings and American cemetery in Normandy...also the Peace Memorial in Caen. I do hope we will continue to be "spunky" enough to continue exploring this historic New England area and also overseas. Like you have enjoyed Italy, Ireland, etc. So you've been to Germany 2008?

Today on Memorial Day watching "The Longest Day" took me back to the courageous landings on Normandy Beaches which we viewed in our Seine R. trip. Did those now buried at the American Cemetery realize how dangerous it was? The movie showed how futile the situation was for the soldiers with their rifles being mowed down by German machine guns. What if the German panzer units were in place that day instead of being held back by uncertainty?

Hello Bill, after posting to you in the Lounge I just saw your interesting and informative trip report. You obviously had a wonderful trip and I send my best wishes that you have many more. Hold the good thought, I had a family member who travelled internationally until he was 92 years old.

Thanks LoveItaly, I will hold the thought...and the same to you! So far we've had no accidents or broken bones. As Rick Steves says I think, "keep on travelin'" We may do a big trip once or twice a year and then a number of Road Scholar (Elderhostel) programs and also folk music festivals (two for this summer). Been retired 19 years. We keep busy learning and exploring at home since newly relocating to Boston.

I enjoyed ready about your trip on the Seine. My daughter and I did not get to make this trip last fall due to a knee that was giving me problems and at that time there were too many marches in Paris. We are planning to go in Oct. on UniWorld. I really look forward to this trip and expect to enjoy it as much as you did.