Croatia transportation question.
 

For our trip in mid-April to Croatia and then to Italy, we have completed all hotels bookings and all flight bookings, but still need to decide between taking either the train or the bus for one leg of the trip.

Which way would you travel? To go from Split to Zagreb, which would you say would be the more desirable mode of travel? We realize the bus is quicker, by about an hour and that’s significant, but there’s something about a seeing the surroundings by train and the overall appeal of train travel. Plus, on a train, it’s possible to get up and move around if necessary. But, the train does take longer! Are there any strengths or weaknesses that would move one significantly higher or lower on the desirability scale? Since we’ll be staying in Zagreb at the Jagerhorn Hotel, I believe both the bus and the train would place us equally near to a connecting tram which goes close to this hotel, right?

We’ll be in Croatia for ten days before this leg of our trip, so would it be reasonable to wait until we get to Croatia to book it? In other words, would either be likely to fill completely before that ten day time period?

Once again, thanks for your insights and travel help!
Kathy

I have not taken either the bus or train between Zagreb and Split. Because I personally like trains and dislike long bus rides, I'd probably lean toward the train. And I do like to get up on trains and walk around, sometimes even take pictures out the window.

The bus is probably very comfortable, though, and if that extra hour is important to you or the schedule is better, you might take the bus. Train nuts wouldn't think twice about taking the train, though.

Are you going to Plitvice Lakes National Park, which is kind of on the way (but a detour)? This amazing park is surely one of the highlights Croatia - try not to miss it! In that case, you could take the bus from Split to the park, stop for a few hours, and then take a later bus on to Zagreb. It's possible to see the park in a good 5-6 hours.

By the way: I really wouldn't worry so much about locking in hotel reservations in April in Croatia, unless you happen to be visiting some town at a busy time off season.

See this page also:

http://seat61.com/Croatia.htm

Most of it is about international travel to/from Croatia by train, but there are some blurbs about travel between Split and Zagreb, such as:

<i>From Zagreb to Split by air-conditioned ICN train...
Traveller Francis Meylan reports: "The journey to Split was fascinating and very scenic. It was a modern diesel train with a free cup of coffee (though no food). Single track but recently re-engineered and was very smooth despite climbing and very many bends, tunnels, and so forth. The track went across high embankments and on ledges on valley sides. It wasn't particularly fast and I can see why. Every country station had a uniformed station master standing to attention as the train went past! Many of the country stations were in ruins and there were obvious signs of war damage, walls pock marked with bullet holes. We could see several minefields marked off. In Knin the front of the large Austro-Hungarian-style town hall was riddled with bullet holes. Towards Split the landscape is very dry, limestone I think, and very rocky. If you took the Sleeper would miss all this!"</i>

For me, the hour saved by taking the bus would not likely make up for the comfort and convenience of the train -- JMO. Of course, it would depend on exactly when the arrivals and departures were. ;-)

IME, both trains and buses in Croatia were comfortable, but I like to be able to move around, which (as you note) is possible on trains and rarely possible on buses. One other consideration: As a rule, one must manipulate one's luggage up a few steps with a train, and it has to be of a manageable size once on-board. In contrast, luggage is often stored in an under-carriage compartment on a bus.

Hope that helps!

Local people don't book these journeys ahead (exceot the berths for the overnight train).

BTW: I don't understand why you go from Split, just a few hrs by ferry from Italy (and much less by plane) to Zagreb, if your next destination is Italy.

Andrew and kja, Thanks for the helpful and illuminating responses. Train it is! Based on what you’ve said, and our own preferences, I think the desirability of the train, the ability to get up and move around when necessary, wins out. I was stirred by that one traveler’s report about the dramatic landscape and the stations in each small town which the train passed through. Thanks for including that.

Kja, We’ll be travelling with carry-on luggage, so no problem with handing it up and down off a train.

Andrew, To stop at Plitvice Lakes Natl. Park would be cutting off time in Zagreb, which is short. Extraordinary as that park appears to be, we had to make a tough choice.

Neckervd, Thanks for pointing out that we do not need to book the train ahead of time. We’ll book once we arrive in Croatia, which should be ten days before the train travel. And, I know it seems curious to go east from Split to Zagreb, then turn back west to Italy, but we’ll start in Dubrovnik, then cruise trip through a few islands to Split, and then because I really wanted to go to Zagreb, we detour there before Italy (fly to Milan). How can one go to Croatia and not go to its capital? It looks intriguing and I love cities with deep backgrounds and culture. We’re really looking forward to Croatia—been wanting to go there for some time now.

You might love Zagreb - some people do. I didn't, but I'm still glad I visited, though half a day would have been plenty of time for me. I like cities and towns. Zagreb just wasn't "tops" for me. I fell in love with Slovenia's capital Ljubljana instead.

We all have different preferences and tastes, and I know it's difficult to judge what's important and a priority on a trip with limited time. Not everyone is as excited about natural beauty as they are about old, historic capitals. Not everyone who visits Plitvice loves it, either. A few people here who visited have complained that they found it too crowded, which is a legitimate complaint. It's highly developed park, not a virgin wilderness experience. Bu tI enjoyed the park so much that I visited a second time on a second visit to Croatia.

Enjoy your trip - and I hope you enjoy the train! I've always wanted to take that train trip, actually, but it hasn't worked into my plans.

I think Zagreb is a fun and underrated city, but if you have just one extra day with which to make it work, I would include Plitvice. It really is that impressive! And if you fall in love and revisit the country in the future, airfare to Zagreb is easiest to secure.

Plitvice is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Just saying....

Yorkshire and Mimar, I do understand that Plitvice Lakes Natl. Park is something unique and should not be overlooked, but on this trip, after much discussion, we have decided to spend our remaining time in Croatia in Zagreb. That said, we do plan on a second trip in the future. And on that trip, Plitvice and the Istria peninsula will be central to that itinerary, as well as Trieste and the Dolomites in Italy. But that’s another trip.

Andrew, We’ve been to Slovenia and its capital Ljubljana, and loved it! A beautiful place, so I hope Zagreb rewards as well.

I thoroughly enjoyed Zagreb! You might want to make time to visit Mirogoj cemetery while there, and if you can arrange a tour of the National Archives, you might be very pleasantly surprised.

Enjoy!

I second the Mirogoj Cemetary recommendation, it's extraordinary.

In my opinion saving plitvice for another time in favor of more time in Zagreb is a good bet. We split our time visiting both and if I had to do it again I'd skip plitvice and give that time to Zagreb. For me, Plitvice is a remarkable sight but I can't say I enjoyed it a whole lot.

Kja and Limmy, Thanks for the great suggestions for Zagreb! Both places look fascinating. I will certainly look into them and am seriously trying to fit in as much as possible. Kathy

"How can one go to Croatia and not go to its capital?"

That's what most people do. Zagreb is a nice town, however, similar to dozens of formerly austro-hungarian towns.