Mathieu

A big 'Thank You' to all of you - your trip reports and sundry offerings of advice and information on other threads have been most helpful in planning my upcoming trip to the Dalmatian coast September 8th - 25th. Indeed, my very interest in visiting this part of the world was born out of your compelling accounts of the beauty of this region, and I am eagerly looking forward to it. I hope to return the favour with at least a report of my own when I return.

My travels will take me from Toronto to Zagreb (via Budapest) wherein I will spend 8 days in and along the Southern Dalmatian coast. Current plans have me flying from Zagreb to Brac (Bol) and surrounds (2 days), then on to Hvar and surrounds (2 days) followed by Dubrovnik (3 days) which will include a day trip to Medujorge and finally back to Zagreb, perhaps via Split. From there, it's on to London for 5 days and ending with 2 relaxing days in Budapest (at the Gellert) before flying back home.

A few questions, if you will.

1. Will 4 days to be spent between Brac and Hvar be sufficient or too much ? There seems a lot to do and see on these two islands without rushing (this is a vacation after all ), and I was planning to visit the Pakleni Otoci (small islands off Hvar) as well. Has anyone been there ? Also, is there a preferred base point (town) on each of these islands from which to tour them on bike or foot ? My reading suggests that there isn't.

2. I am not pre booking accommodations in either Hvar or Brac as from all accounts, I should be able to find something if I get there early in the day in September. Does anyone have any specific mid-price lodging recommendations ? I have collected many names from the respective island web sites and books but would also welcome personal recos if anyone has any.

3. I have a choice of either taking the bus (11 hr) from DBV back to ZAG or bus from DVB to Split and then a train from Split to ZAG (9hrs). I hear that the coastal bus trip is scenicially beautiful and I am leaning towards that though the though of 11 hrs on a bus isn't much fun. Any recommendations for the train ride ?

4. How easy is it to change money in any of the places that I've mentioned ? Are cash machines easily available for Kuna and Euros ? Are Credit cards readily acceptable ? Is US cash preferred over Euros ?

5. Finally, any recommendation for a reasonable hotel in Zagreb either with a travel agency desk in it or near by ?

Thank you all again for all you food recommendations. Fish and seafood simply cooked are favourites and being somewhat of a foodie, I'm particularly anticipating this aspect of the trip.

Thanks again.

Mathieu.

metlc

Mathieu,

1. Haven't been to those specific places, but I'm sure four days "isn't too much."

2. We dropped into Korcula Town in September without reservations. Plenty of inexpensive private rooms.

3. Take the bus from Dubrovnik to Split. And then: SkyEurope has cheap fares from Split to Budapest.

4. ATMs are everywhere, dispensing Kuna.

5. See (3) above.

marktynernyc

Mathieu -
Regarding the Pakleni Otoci - I'm not sure if there are taxis that go between the little islands - you may have to go back to Hvar then back out plus some boats only do a morning run and an afternoon run. If you only have 2 days for Hvar I would say spend one day exploring the town (wondering the passageways, the fortress,etc) then spend the next day on a scooter exploring the island - go to Stari Grad, Jelsa, Zavala. I only visited one of Pakleni Otoci and it was okay - nice - but not nearly as exhilirating as motoring around the island.

As for restaurants in Hvar - Macondo and Menego. Great fish at Macondo- get a table outside. Menego serves wonderful artisinal dishes.

I only went to Bol on Brac - which is where the Golden Horn is located - and only for 1/2 a day. I wish I could have spent an entire day on the Horn. There is a wonderful restaurant in Bol named Gust - the cured sardines, the pasta frutta di mare and the lobster salad were excellent.

As for accomodations in Bol, Hotel Kastil looked to be well situated and a 20 minutes walk to the Horn.

http://www.kastil.hr

As for ATMS - they are everywhere however when I got back I found some hefty commissions fees, even when using the ATM at their banks in Hvar. I wrote Splitska Banka to ask about their fees. Their reply: "withdraw cash without commission using Splitska banka VISA card, in case withdraw cash by using other cards commissions depend upon the card issuer." My Citibank card is a Mastercard. I checked with Citibank and they gave me some babble rabble. One of my co-workers, who is Croatian, works here in NYC, takes US dollars and hasn't had any problems.

I really like Footprint's Guide to Croatia.

Any other question, feel free to ask.

Mathieu

Thank you metlc. I didn't know about Air Europe and after checking their schedule, their flying dates to Split or Dubvronik do not mesh with mine unfortunately. Rats! as it would mean that I could cut Zagreb from the picture and spend more time in the south. (It's been a nightmare trying to coordinate flights, ferry and other land transport schedules as it is). But thanks for all the info.

Mark as usual, you've been a font of really helpful information. Thank you for the recommendations. The restaurants and the hotel Kastil sound exactly like what I'd appreciate.
Yeah, and I know what you mean about those card service charges. Had the same experience in Brussels a couple of years ago with requisite post-holiday- 2-month-runaround !

Any other experiences and advise welcomed.

Jonas

Hi Mathieu,
I agree with previous posters.
1. Two days for each Brac and Hvar isn't too much. On Brac stay in Bol and on Hvar in Hvar. Renting a scooter on both islands is a great idea. Pakleni islands are nice for a nice day on the beach but with only two days on Hvar I wouldn't waste one whole day for it. If the weather will be fine and you'd really like to catch some sun go to Palmizana. It is about 20 minutes from Hvar by taxi boat. There isn't much to do except hiking around, lay on the beach etc. Palmizana has a good restaurant mostly visited by yacht crowd.
You can find good info about Hvar and Pakleni here:
http://www.holidayinhvar.co.uk/

2. No need for pre booking. In September you'll find plenty of available accommodation everywhere. I'd go for private accommodation. I see you have done a lot of research but you can always just go to the nearest local travel agent or tourist office and ask for specific accommodation you prefer (location, sea view, facilities, balcony, terrace, price, breakfast etc.).

3. I prefer bus over train. Although I always travel by car, I have done several bus and train trips on Split - Zagreb route. I'd go for the bus. It is faster and for me more comfortable. You can also check www.croatiaairlines.hr for air fares between Split and Zagreb. If you buy your ticket just a day or two before the flight you can get some cheap tickets. Many travel agents across Croatia sell plain tickets. I wouldn't bother with pre booking for neither bus, train or plane in late September. High season is over and booking a day in advance is enough.

4. ATMs are everywhere. I have a local bank VISA card and always look for my bank's ATMs because of the commission (although not high) if I use the machine form another bank. Commission depends of contracts different banks have among them, this is true.


5. Sorry, I live in Zagreb and have never used any of its hotels. Hotel Palace has a great location and prices shown on their site range between 105 and 115 EUR for a single room.
www.palace.hr
Hotel Dubrovnik is located right on the main square (about 500 meters or 0.3 miles north of Palace) and prices go from 90 EUR and up.
www.hotel-dubrovnik.htnet.hr
Hotel Central is right across the rail station and 10 minutes walking from the main square. It is not far from the bus station either. Single rooms from 70 EUR.
www.hotel-central.hr
From 14-19th of September Zagreb hosts traditional autumn economic fair. Be warned that most of hotels will be booked in that time. So if you plan to be in Zagreb then, book now! Same goes for plain tickets on Split-Zagreb route.
Other hotels in Zagreb:
www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr

Hope this helps.

Mathieu

Hey Jonas,

Hvala Lijepo ! (I'm learning.)
Really appreciate all your advice and information. You've been most helpful.

I'll let you all know how things progress.

jmv

Not sure I can add much. For sure you'll be rewarded if staying 2 days in Hvar. It's very beautiful and relaxing. Our hotel--Adriatic--was wonderful. Great view of the town and harbor. At only 60 euros for a double, a good deal. I think the two star across the harbor (near the ferry stop) is the Slavia. It looked very nice and is probably even less expensive. We stayed at Hotel dubrovnik in Zagreb. It was pricier, probably around 140 euros, but very central. I enjoyed Zagreb and am glad we wound up going there even for the short overnight stay we were required to make for our plane connections. Check Europebyair.com for flights at $99 per person per leg, e.g. flight from Split to Zagreb, etc. You're going to love Croatia. Enjoy

Jonas

Mathieu,
nema na cemu.
Roughly translated, it means You're welcome or Don't mention it. I know you're learning, so am I.