Croatia itinerary review
 

Hi all,

Would appreciate feedback on this proposed itinerary. It's been a long work in progress, as there is so much to see and do in Croatia (we also have a few days tacked on in London, before our return to Australia).

As it stands, our flights to Vienna are booked (hence the arrival destination), as are our four nights in Dubrovnik, and our flight to London (and home). So those are pretty fixed.

My thoughts currently are:

• Train from Vienna to Zagreb (although it looks like the shortest train arrives quite late); alternative is to fly (not my preference)
• Overnight in Zagreb but pick up rental car and head to Rovinj (stay two nights)
• Do a trip to Plitvice; I was contemplating doing it as a long day trip from Rovinj, and then onwards to Split (or elsewhere) afterwards. This would allow for an extra night in Rovinj, but that may be too long a day?
• Stay at Split (or perhaps Trogir) for a night, before heading to the islands - being both Hvar and Korcula (we would drop off the rental here).

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...82392de7b2.png

You have quite a lot of time on the two islands compared to everywhere else. If beach time is a high priority then that's what you should do. Personally, when I travel long distances (and Australia is a lot further than eastern US) I don't want to spend time just lying on a beach. If your goal is to see the country then I would definitely cut back that island time. I've been to both and they are both lovely but you can see the towns in less than a day.

You also definitely don't want to do Plitvice as a day trip from Rovinj. That would be crazy. We drove from Rovinj (where we had spent the previous 6 nights) to Plitvice and it took at least 4 hours (a lot longer than google maps said it would). Plus, you want to be in the park late in the day (after 4) and early the following morning (before 11) so as to miss the tour bus crowds so you do need one night.

I actually also think driving to Rovinj from Zagreb just for two nights might not be worth it. If you are willing to cut a couple days from the islands and add them to Rovinj that could work. Rovinj itself doesn't 'require' much time but there is a lot of other stuff to see on the peninsula. Pula, Porec, and numerous hill towns are all good day trips and then being back in Rovinj for evening and early morning is great. But if you can't find a couple more days then I think the drive time from Zagreb to Rovinj and Rovinj to Plitvice vs just driving Zagreb to Plitvice would not be worth it.

I would definitely take a day from one of the islands and give it to Split. Now you only have one night so not even a day there. Two nights gives you one full day which is enough to see the highlights. If you had three nights/two full days you could do a day trip to Trogir.

Here's my trip report from last summer's trip which was Rovinj to Hvar (via Plitvice and Split).
https://andiamo.zenfolio.com/blog/2019/10/croatia

Here's my trip report from a previous trips which included Dubrovnik and Korcula
https://www.fodors.com/community/eur...-weeks-854867/
Croatia part is the 2nd half

May be you go by public transport from Vienna up to Rovinj and rent your car there:
Vienna dp 7.58 by train Eurocity Emona to Ljubljana ar 14.08, dp by bus (Crnjatours) 16.10 - Rovinj ar 20.40
or
Vienna dp 6.25 by railjet San Marco to Udine and by connecting train to Trieste ar 13.38. Trieste dp by bus 17.45 - Rovinj ar 20.40
or
Vienna dp 21.27 by overnight train Nightjet 237 (with sleeping cars) to Udine ar 6.23 and by corresponding train to Trieste ar 7.38. Trieste dp by bus 8.45 - Rovinj ar 12.00

We were in Croatia and Slovenia this past September, and I do agree with Isabel. You have a lot of time on the islands and not enough time seeing the country. We spent 4 nights in Split, and that included a day trip to Hvar Town, which we loved, and 3/4 of a day in Trogir. You do need at least one full day to see the highlights of Split. I recommend a guided walking tour of Diocletian's Palace and Old Town.

We spent one night in Plitvice, at the Plitvice Miric Inn. We visited the Upper lakes in the late afternoon (4PM arrival), and the lower lakes the next morning. That way we avoided some of the horrendous crowds. It was already starting to get crowded by 10AM on our second day.

You have 4 days in Dubrovnik, which is a lot. Are you planning on some day trips from there? We spent a day driving around the Bay of Kotor in Montenegro, and you could also visit Mostar for a day, although I think visiting Mostar as an overnight would be preferable, if possible.

Consider spending the night at Plitvice Lakes -- that will give you a bit of latitude to visit on either day if the weather is not cooperative, not to mention the crowd avoidance benefits already mentioned.

Four nights is a LOT for Dubrovnik. Consider adjusting that time, even if you have to pay for the lodging you've already arranged.

I see that others are saying that you have a disproportionate amount of time in Hvar and Korcula, but I'm sorry -- I don't see any reference to how much time you have. Perhaps you indulge me by clarifying?

For me, 2 nights would be fine for Rovinj -- not ideal, perhaps, but still enough. YMMV.

Split is my favorite city in Croatia, but maybe it doesn't interest you -- and thank goodness, people do have different interests!

Thanks, KarenWoo!

Without knowing the OP's interests, those amounts of time don't strike me as unreasonable. Even if beach time is not a priority, there's a lot to see and do on both islands. BUT it depends on interests! I'd shift some of that time to Split, but that's just me.

I would shift some of that time to Split as well, but as you say, it depends on the OP's interests.

Hi all,

Thank you for your wonderful feedback. As always, it is greatly appreciated - and very insightful. I realise I neglected to include our interests - my apologies. They are generally: food and wine/dining, historical villages/sights, visiting villages/local areas, driving the countryside, etc. We are not really beach people - but do appreciate islands/scenery. We don't like fast paced/packing and unpacking - so like to spend at least a couple of nights at most places.

On the basis of the feedback, we will:

• Add a night to Rovinj (total of 3)
• Definitely stay overnight at Plitvice (visit in afternoon, and in the next morning, before travelling on)
• Add a night to Split (or Trogir, depending on where we stay)
• Drop our two nights in Korcula - leaving 4 nights in Hvar only.

(I was incredibly conflicted on the Hvar vs. Korcula debate - which is why I had both - but we can't do it all...)

We will also investigate going directly to Rovinj from Vienna, bypassing Zagreb - thank you for the travel information there! (This would mean four nights in Rovinj, but the day we arrive will obviously be an extensive travel day.)

In response to your comments...:

Okay - noted. I will revise to add another day at Split (although, I am conflicted as to whether to stay in Split two nights, or Trogir two nights; general consensus seems to be to stay in Split).

Yes, we do plan on day trips (one or two - but at least to Montenegro). It seems to generally considered a lot of time, but we don't mind that so much as it is our last stop before London.

Okay - we will definitely ensure we stay the night there.

Thanks for the advice. We will add a night to Rovinj - and I have totally discounted the option of doing Plitvice as a day trip now (I realise in my head it was very improbable - but it is great to get verification).

Great advice - I will research options here.

This is the revised plan ...:
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8737e05a67.png

I adore Split, but Trogir is beautiful and sounds like it could be a better fit to your interests. I loved my stay at the Palace Stafileo, which still seems to get good reviews.

Too, from what you've said, I think Hvar is more likely to fit your interests than Korcula, although both are, IMO, delightful. Will you be staying in Hvar Town? If you haven't already considered it, you might want to plan a day trip to Stari Grad.

I think your revised itinerary looks fab. With four days in Hvar, consider keeping your rental car so you can explore the island. It is insanely beautiful, Croatia is playing England in the Euro Cup football tournament on June 14 - it will be fun to watch in Dubrovnik, especially if they win :)

Thanks for your advice. I will check the accommodation out. And yes, we propose to stay in Hvar Town. Will now look to book, now the dates/itinerary is settled :)

Thanks. I was considering keeping the rental, but thought it would be easier to return in Split, and pick up another vehicle for use on the island only? As otherwise we would need to return to Split to return the vehicle, I assume; or continue on to Dubrovnik in it (indirectly, of course, as car ferries don't go direct to Dubrovnik from Hvar).

Not necessarily! Check with the company with which you will make car rental arrangements.

THR, you can indeed rent a vehicle on Hvar but for your purposes, it might be better to keep your rental all the way through. It costs more to take a car on the ferry, but there are advantages to not having to pack, unpack, rent, return, rent again etc. I have rented in Rovinj and returned to Dubrovnik with almost an identical itinerary to yours. If you want to stay in Hvar Town though, you just need to find a place with parking. You would need to look in the more residential parts and not the historical center. I’m making it more sound more complicated than it is :) however you do it, you will enjoy it.

Thanks again! I'll seriously look at that. Are bigger vehicles okay on Hvar? We are looking at either a 3 series wagon, or a 4 wheel drive.

Also, I guess we should return the vehicle immediately at Dubrovnik? Or is it worth keeping and just returning at airport on our way out?

I'd choose Brac rather than Hvar, though the ferry trip to Hvar (Stari Grad) is really scenic.

Trogir is awash with tour groups every day during the core hours 1000-1600, the lanes narrow and congested. Careful with your possessions too. Personally, I'd stick to Split Old Town, busy but much more space.

A day trip into Herzagovina to Mostar has been mentioned. Lovely place, but heaving with tour groups between 1000-1600.

For Split and Dubrovnik, check the Port schedules for cruise ships alongside, and adjust your own schedule to avoid them!

Can I just say - thank you SO much for this advice. We will definitely do the Nightjet train and then to Trieste, and then probably just a private vehicle to Rovinj. Would never have thought of the night train. Sage advice!

You can bring a big car to Hvar. On the ferry you will see everything from motorcycles to big buses. Just make sure you rent a place that has street parking around. The place I stay, the parking is tight but they have a couple of reserved places for people with cars. Just make sure wherever you stay has something like that.

I would not keep the car in Dubrovnik if you want to stay in Dubrovnik.. you could, in order to keep it for day trips but you will have to pay for parking. Where are you staying? If you are planning to do group day tours to Montenegro etc definitely get rid of the car.

The car will be a major hindrance in Dubrovnik, unless you need it for daytrips. If so, make sure the place you are staying has parking. Or rent a car just for the day trip. We picked up our rental car THE DAY WE LEFT DUBROVNIK. We hired a private driver for our day trip around the Bay of Kotor. It was one of the best decisions we made because then my husband could really enjoy the scenery. Our private driver also acted as a tour guide while driving. He could not come with us to the places we stopped to guide us because of local laws, but we really didn't need a guide for those places. But he really made the trip more enjoyable, sharing very interesting information with us while driving.