Croatia itinerary - need advice
Jun 14th, 2017, 07:17 AM
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Croatia itinerary - need advice
Dear Fodorites,
My daughter (age 27) and I are taking a trip to Croatia after she finishes her school session in Prague in August (not the ideal time, I know). Never having been to Croatia, I need some advice as to whether our itinerary sounds sensible. Because my daughter is obligated to use a particular airline to return to SFO, I want to fly out of Venice as the connections are better (only one stop).
Fly to Dubrovnik - 1-1/2 days
2 days beach - we'd like an island with stunning scenery, not too much partying, chance to kayak, sit in cafes. Suggestions please?
Split &Trogir - 2 days. Since Trogir is close to Split, does it make sense to stay in Split and do Trogir as day trip? Also, are there many ferries/boats from islands to Split?
Plitvice Lakes - take bus from Split, spend night Plitvice so we can get an early start the next morning.
After Plitvice, take afternoon bus to Rovinj (or Pula? - which is more scenic?)
2 nights, 1 day in Rovinj
Ferry from Rovinj to Venice
fly out of Venice
I'm a big trip researcher, but have not had the time yet to do more reading and we need to pick flights as soon as possible.
Thank you very much in advance!
My daughter (age 27) and I are taking a trip to Croatia after she finishes her school session in Prague in August (not the ideal time, I know). Never having been to Croatia, I need some advice as to whether our itinerary sounds sensible. Because my daughter is obligated to use a particular airline to return to SFO, I want to fly out of Venice as the connections are better (only one stop).
Fly to Dubrovnik - 1-1/2 days
2 days beach - we'd like an island with stunning scenery, not too much partying, chance to kayak, sit in cafes. Suggestions please?
Split &Trogir - 2 days. Since Trogir is close to Split, does it make sense to stay in Split and do Trogir as day trip? Also, are there many ferries/boats from islands to Split?
Plitvice Lakes - take bus from Split, spend night Plitvice so we can get an early start the next morning.
After Plitvice, take afternoon bus to Rovinj (or Pula? - which is more scenic?)
2 nights, 1 day in Rovinj
Ferry from Rovinj to Venice
fly out of Venice
I'm a big trip researcher, but have not had the time yet to do more reading and we need to pick flights as soon as possible.
Thank you very much in advance!
Jun 14th, 2017, 07:52 AM
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Check the bus schedules especially from Plitvice to Istria - might be a long bus ride if you get a direct bus to say Rovinj. Try GetByBus.com and BusCroatia.com .
Personal preference would be Rovinj over Pula. Rovinj is tiny but lovely and charming, an old fishing port by the sea with a lovely church with iconic Ventian bell tower at the top, an old town that climbs the hill to the church with twisty streets. But it is also very touristy and probably would be packed in August. Pula is a city, not a little town - so not a tourist trap as much as Rovinj is. There are high-quality Roman ruins and the old arena, so if you love Roman ruins, you might love this place. I didn't find Pula particularly charming and had seen plenty of Roman ruins in Italy.
Yes, you can day trip to Trogir from Split. I'm almost certain there would be good ferry service in August. There's also a bus if need be, but I'd certainly take the ferry if possible.
Personal preference would be Rovinj over Pula. Rovinj is tiny but lovely and charming, an old fishing port by the sea with a lovely church with iconic Ventian bell tower at the top, an old town that climbs the hill to the church with twisty streets. But it is also very touristy and probably would be packed in August. Pula is a city, not a little town - so not a tourist trap as much as Rovinj is. There are high-quality Roman ruins and the old arena, so if you love Roman ruins, you might love this place. I didn't find Pula particularly charming and had seen plenty of Roman ruins in Italy.
Yes, you can day trip to Trogir from Split. I'm almost certain there would be good ferry service in August. There's also a bus if need be, but I'd certainly take the ferry if possible.
Jun 14th, 2017, 02:46 PM
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Thanks for your input Andrew. I now see that there doesn't appear to be a direct bus from Plitvice to Rovinj, so I'm considering renting a car to drive from Split to Plitvice and then Rovinj. Could anyone weigh in on driving in Croatia? Are roads pretty safe? Clearly marked? Does the GPS in rental cars work well? Is this route pretty straightforward?
Second question: while in Dubrovnik, if we want to get some swim/relaxation time in, do you recommend taking a day trip to one of the islands or spending the night there? If so, any favorites? We (at least I) do not like loud partying, and are interested in beautiful scenery, nice swimming, charming towns, pleasant cafes, good but simple restaurants.
Thanks in advance!
Second question: while in Dubrovnik, if we want to get some swim/relaxation time in, do you recommend taking a day trip to one of the islands or spending the night there? If so, any favorites? We (at least I) do not like loud partying, and are interested in beautiful scenery, nice swimming, charming towns, pleasant cafes, good but simple restaurants.
Thanks in advance!
Jun 14th, 2017, 02:59 PM
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I've driven in Croatia twice, and I thought driving there was easy - roads are well marked and modern, though I didn't drive in August, when you might expect more traffic on the coastal roads.
Last time I drove there I took my Garmin GPS with me, but since then I've sold it and moved to my Android phone and Google Maps, which I think is more up to date and easier to use. If you don't have a smart phone to take with you, I guess you can pay extra for the GPS. I have no idea how easy to use they are.
On my first driving trip there, I didn't have any GPS and still navigated OK. I studied routes ahead of time and followed directional signs to towns. Obviously, having a GPS of some sort makes it easier. The drive from Split to Plitvice is very straightforward: the A1 toll road, then the two land D1 road to Plitvice. Driving back to Istria should be straightforward too.
On my first stay in Dubrovnik, I didn't have a car and stayed right outside the old town. I wasn't that interested in swimming or beaches, though. I did go for a dip in the cove right below the old town walls (near Pile Gate) with my B&B owner. I also visited the suburb (sort of) of Lapad, a short bus ride away from the old town. This is a pleasant but dull beach resort area with beaches. That would be one option if you want beach time. I didn't go to any of the islands off of Dubrovnik.
Please read some of the past Croatia trip reports for ideas about restaurants, etc. My trip reports don't have much to offer in this area (but lots of pictures).
Last time I drove there I took my Garmin GPS with me, but since then I've sold it and moved to my Android phone and Google Maps, which I think is more up to date and easier to use. If you don't have a smart phone to take with you, I guess you can pay extra for the GPS. I have no idea how easy to use they are.
On my first driving trip there, I didn't have any GPS and still navigated OK. I studied routes ahead of time and followed directional signs to towns. Obviously, having a GPS of some sort makes it easier. The drive from Split to Plitvice is very straightforward: the A1 toll road, then the two land D1 road to Plitvice. Driving back to Istria should be straightforward too.
On my first stay in Dubrovnik, I didn't have a car and stayed right outside the old town. I wasn't that interested in swimming or beaches, though. I did go for a dip in the cove right below the old town walls (near Pile Gate) with my B&B owner. I also visited the suburb (sort of) of Lapad, a short bus ride away from the old town. This is a pleasant but dull beach resort area with beaches. That would be one option if you want beach time. I didn't go to any of the islands off of Dubrovnik.
Please read some of the past Croatia trip reports for ideas about restaurants, etc. My trip reports don't have much to offer in this area (but lots of pictures).
Jun 14th, 2017, 04:22 PM
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For your beach time, maybe Korcula or Mljet. I think 1.5 days in Dubrovnik and 2 days on one of these islands should work, but of course, only you can decide. For some downtime while in Dubrovnik, be sure to visit the Buza Bar. 
Yes, you can visit Trogir from Split (or vice versa); by bus, it’s about ½ hour. For that short a distance, I opted for the convenient and frequent bus rather than trying to deal with a ferry. Your call.
The Plitvice Lakes National Park is, IMO, the single most un-missable of Croatia's many splendors. Not only are the lakes connected by travertine waterfall formations, each lake has unique microbiota, and as a result, the lakes are different colors. The best way to see that is to make a single, long loop through the park -- something on the order of 6 hours or more (including time for the boat that connects the lower and upper lakes), and by all means, start at the lowest part of the park so you are facing the falls as you proceed. BUT one note of caution: When I visited the area, it was easy to GET to the Plitvice Lakes by bus, but I read that there were no guarantees that a bus would stop there to pick people up when you are ready to leave because they might not have room. That was some time ago (2009) and I don’t know if that was actually true, nor do I know whether more recent reports that the bus seats can be reserved is true. You might want to see if you can find out. I see that you are now considering renting a car for Split – Plitvice Lakes – Rovinj -- that should simplify your lives! Be sure you either turn in your car ASAP upon arrival in Rovinj or know where you will park it, as the old town is generally off-limits to cars.
I encountered some crazy drivers in Croatia, mainly on back roads, though. The majority of your trip would be on well-designed and well-signed major roads.
I skipped Pula, in part because I came to believe that Rovinj is much more scenic.
Hope that helps!
Yes, you can visit Trogir from Split (or vice versa); by bus, it’s about ½ hour. For that short a distance, I opted for the convenient and frequent bus rather than trying to deal with a ferry. Your call.
The Plitvice Lakes National Park is, IMO, the single most un-missable of Croatia's many splendors. Not only are the lakes connected by travertine waterfall formations, each lake has unique microbiota, and as a result, the lakes are different colors. The best way to see that is to make a single, long loop through the park -- something on the order of 6 hours or more (including time for the boat that connects the lower and upper lakes), and by all means, start at the lowest part of the park so you are facing the falls as you proceed. BUT one note of caution: When I visited the area, it was easy to GET to the Plitvice Lakes by bus, but I read that there were no guarantees that a bus would stop there to pick people up when you are ready to leave because they might not have room. That was some time ago (2009) and I don’t know if that was actually true, nor do I know whether more recent reports that the bus seats can be reserved is true. You might want to see if you can find out. I see that you are now considering renting a car for Split – Plitvice Lakes – Rovinj -- that should simplify your lives! Be sure you either turn in your car ASAP upon arrival in Rovinj or know where you will park it, as the old town is generally off-limits to cars.
I encountered some crazy drivers in Croatia, mainly on back roads, though. The majority of your trip would be on well-designed and well-signed major roads.
I skipped Pula, in part because I came to believe that Rovinj is much more scenic.
Hope that helps!
Jun 22nd, 2017, 01:04 PM
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Thanks for all suggestions. Here is my slightly edited itinerary: fly from Prague to Dubrovnik. 2-1/2 days DBV
bus to Split: 2 nights
rent car, drive scenic coastal route to Plitvice (1 night)
Plitvice Lakes, then drive to Rovinj (2 nights)
Ferry to Venice (1 night)
Fly out Venice.
My questions include: Driving from Split to Plitvice, what are some beautiful towns with great views that we should see? I'd like to see Trogir, Primosten, and Simonek. Is this doable? Generally, in these towns, are parking lots on outskirts?
Thank you!
bus to Split: 2 nights
rent car, drive scenic coastal route to Plitvice (1 night)
Plitvice Lakes, then drive to Rovinj (2 nights)
Ferry to Venice (1 night)
Fly out Venice.
My questions include: Driving from Split to Plitvice, what are some beautiful towns with great views that we should see? I'd like to see Trogir, Primosten, and Simonek. Is this doable? Generally, in these towns, are parking lots on outskirts?
Thank you!
Jun 22nd, 2017, 01:36 PM
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The A1 highway between Split and Plitvice isn't that scenic - not much of a view of the sea, because it runs inland a bit. If you want to take the slow coastal road instead, plan a lot of extra time, especially if hope to stop in some towns. With the limited time you'll have, I'd plan on the fast A1 (a toll road).
I visited Trogir (overnight) and Sibenik (a few hours) and parked a car in both. I found street parking (metered) in Sibenik pretty easily. My Trogir hotel was right outside the little old town; the hotel had an arrangement with a local paid parking lot, but I saw other little paid lots nearby. But I was there in May, off season. I'm guessing things will be a lot busier in August in regards to parking. You should be able to find parking but you might have to hunt, not sure.
You're really moving quite fast between Split, Plitvice, and Rovinj, FYI. You're going to want at least 5-6 hours in the park - presumably the morning after your night stay, because you'll have a busy day of visiting towns on the way up. And Plitvice will be mobbed by 10AM in August - best to get into the park at 7AM when it opens, especially in your case. Not undoable, but set your expectations for a very fast trip. You'll hike Plitvice that next day, then have a long drive to Rovinj. You'll really have only one day for Rovinj and the rest of Istria, given that you might not arrive very early the first night there from Plitvice.
I visited Trogir (overnight) and Sibenik (a few hours) and parked a car in both. I found street parking (metered) in Sibenik pretty easily. My Trogir hotel was right outside the little old town; the hotel had an arrangement with a local paid parking lot, but I saw other little paid lots nearby. But I was there in May, off season. I'm guessing things will be a lot busier in August in regards to parking. You should be able to find parking but you might have to hunt, not sure.
You're really moving quite fast between Split, Plitvice, and Rovinj, FYI. You're going to want at least 5-6 hours in the park - presumably the morning after your night stay, because you'll have a busy day of visiting towns on the way up. And Plitvice will be mobbed by 10AM in August - best to get into the park at 7AM when it opens, especially in your case. Not undoable, but set your expectations for a very fast trip. You'll hike Plitvice that next day, then have a long drive to Rovinj. You'll really have only one day for Rovinj and the rest of Istria, given that you might not arrive very early the first night there from Plitvice.
Jun 22nd, 2017, 02:19 PM
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I agree with Andrew about the A1 and about your pace.
I also agree this plan really means you must visit the Plitvice Lakes and drive to Rovinj on the same day, and that's a rather long drive that can be made much longer by traffic around Rijeka. According to timeanddate.com (which I find reliable for sunrise / sunset information) sunsets in Rovinj in August are from 7:45 to 8:30, depending on when, exactly you will be there, and I, for one, would not want to be driving in Istria after dark -- particularly at the end of a long drive. And FWIW, I did end up unexpectedly driving there one day after dark, and I did NOT like it. Andrew is also correct that the entrances to the Plitvice Lakes can be jammed by tourists at about 10 a.m., and while I normally suggest that one can start either early (as Andrew suggests) or at 10:30 or 11 (my preference), I don't think you have the luxury of beginning after the tour groups head into the park. JMO.
https://www.timeanddate.com/sun/croa...th=8&year=2017
As for getting from Split to the Plitvice Lakes, it's really your preference. Split was my favorite city in Croatia, so I wanted more than a day there -- and if you try to visit places between Split and the Plitvice Lakes, you won't have more than a day. But maybe your interests are different than mine....
Trogir is only about 1/2 hour away from Split, so if you want to see it -- and it is delightful, IMO -- then you might consider going by bus the day before you pick up your rental car and then leaving Split later on the day when you do pick up your rental. I say that partly because of the parking issue and also because it is a bit out of the way for heading to either Sibenik or the Plitvice Lakes. Just an idea. Trogir is tiny, so a few hours should suffice.
I'm also glad that I visited Sibenik, but I wanted much more than a few hours there.
BTW, another option would be to cut one day from Dubrovnik (1.5 days is sufficient for many people) and shift it to Split, Trogir, Sibenik, or Rovinj, depending on your interests.
Good luck!
I also agree this plan really means you must visit the Plitvice Lakes and drive to Rovinj on the same day, and that's a rather long drive that can be made much longer by traffic around Rijeka. According to timeanddate.com (which I find reliable for sunrise / sunset information) sunsets in Rovinj in August are from 7:45 to 8:30, depending on when, exactly you will be there, and I, for one, would not want to be driving in Istria after dark -- particularly at the end of a long drive. And FWIW, I did end up unexpectedly driving there one day after dark, and I did NOT like it. Andrew is also correct that the entrances to the Plitvice Lakes can be jammed by tourists at about 10 a.m., and while I normally suggest that one can start either early (as Andrew suggests) or at 10:30 or 11 (my preference), I don't think you have the luxury of beginning after the tour groups head into the park. JMO.
https://www.timeanddate.com/sun/croa...th=8&year=2017
As for getting from Split to the Plitvice Lakes, it's really your preference. Split was my favorite city in Croatia, so I wanted more than a day there -- and if you try to visit places between Split and the Plitvice Lakes, you won't have more than a day. But maybe your interests are different than mine....
Trogir is only about 1/2 hour away from Split, so if you want to see it -- and it is delightful, IMO -- then you might consider going by bus the day before you pick up your rental car and then leaving Split later on the day when you do pick up your rental. I say that partly because of the parking issue and also because it is a bit out of the way for heading to either Sibenik or the Plitvice Lakes. Just an idea. Trogir is tiny, so a few hours should suffice.
I'm also glad that I visited Sibenik, but I wanted much more than a few hours there.
BTW, another option would be to cut one day from Dubrovnik (1.5 days is sufficient for many people) and shift it to Split, Trogir, Sibenik, or Rovinj, depending on your interests.
Good luck!
Jun 23rd, 2017, 02:55 PM
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Andrew and kja - thank you so much for your thoughtful suggestions. Sometimes it takes a person who's been there to knock some sense into someone who hasn't! We are arriving into Dubrovnik a day earlier than planned and I'll shift our reservations accordingly.
I will pay attention to making sure I'm not driving in Istria in the darkness - do not want that experience.
I will pay attention to making sure I'm not driving in Istria in the darkness - do not want that experience.
