Happy Cheesehead (where are you from? Canada? or Wisconsin?)

anyway, the roads at the top of the mountains are very high on Hvar, and if we make that trip again, my husband is threatening to have me tranquilized first. I guess it was when the giant friggin' tourist busses would come around the corner of a cliff, and then tell us to back up so they could get by.....and we'd have to back up on those roads.... Or maybe that wasn't the worst part....I have kind of blocked it out. You'll just have to give it a try and see what you think...being in the passenger's seat on the way up to the top is scary (you are on the same side as the abrupt road edge) My husband and I just kept saying "how the heck did they build these roads in the first place?" When there are turn-offs, the views are spectacular. when there aren't turn-offs, you'll wish you were wearing Depends....

oops - - I mean "turn OUTS"

I think you know what I was trying to say.

Nancy, thank you so much for posting your trip report! Croatia sounds fabulous, and every time I read a report I get more excited about our upcoming trip. I wish we didn't have to wait until November!

How was the driving? Hubby is quite nervous about driving in Croatia, although I told him that we drove through London, and that was beyond crazy, and surely Croatia has to be better than that! ;)

Unfortunately we only have a week for Croatia. Right now our itinerary is 3 nights Dubrovnik, 1 night in Mostar (Bosnia) and 3 nights in Trogir before we fly to London for a night. I'm trying to decide to Mostar is worth a night, but we will be driving there on the way to Trogir so I think it will make for too long of a day if we don't stay. We are planning on visiting Ston on the way to Mostar, so I'm glad you mentioned it!

Thanks again!
Tracy

"When there are turn-offs, the views are spectacular. when there aren't turn-offs, you'll wish you were wearing Depends...."

OMG - LOL!

Ok - maybe I can ferry over from that little town near Korcula - Orbic?? I will look into it. We have been on some pretty crazy roads but this sounds like it might be even over our threshold of acceptable.

that mountain road along the spine of the mountains in Hvar can be a bit nerve wracking - but those views are to - err - well - to die for.

LOWCOUNTRYISLANDER & TRIPGIRL, when you pick up your rental car in central Zagreb, head towards south of the city - Novi Zagreb. Follow the signs for Karlovac, Maribor, Ljubljana. On your way you will pass "Mercatone", a large retail complex. As soon as you're on the 2 lane road for Split, you'll be fine, can't get lost any more. Keep driving till you reach the motorway, collect your toll ticket and hit the accelerator :)

Thank you Teddybear!

I always get a little flustered trying to get out of an unfamiliar downtown area. Lucky for me my travel partner will be driving and I will be doing the navigation...your directions will help! :)

What a great report! I am one of the many who will be going to Croatia later this year - in September to be exact. I will be on a tour, but am planning on spending 5 additional days in Dubrovnik in order to make various day trips. I'm planning on going to Korcula, Mostar, Kotor and Cavcat. I will be staying within the walls and also outside. The tour takes me to Split, Hvar, Trogir, Plitvice Lakes, Zagreb and on to Ljubljana and Lake Bled. We will be staying on there an extra day and then to Trieste for 2 days before going home. I have been reading everyone's comments on this site and absolutely cannot wait to go. And we love gelato so we should be in heaven!!!

Okay, Nancy,it's my turn....
Amazing report & questions galore.
1)Unfortunately, our car ferry to
Stari Grad from Split leaves at 7 AM.
How long is the drive to the ferry
from Trogir & what time should we
realistically get into line
(Sept.23)?
2)I thought that there's a tunnel road
connecting Stari Grad to Hvar. The
description of riding on the spine
brings me back to my memories of
Crete's numerous memorial boxes along
the treacherous roads.Although we're
taking the car onto Hvar to see as
much as we can that's necessary,what
route do you recommend that's not as
terrifying (I'm too young for
Depends)?
3)Getting to Ciovo,is the exit from
the highway at Trogir clearly
marked? How long was your walk to
Trogir from Ciovo? Is the farmers'
market opened daily?
4)From Orebic to Dubrovnik,how long
is the drive,considering a stop to
see the Ston walls?
5)We're also returning the car in
Dubrovnik.We're now wondering if
we should keep it another day.To
take it to Montenegro? to Mljet?
What's your suggestion as we're
in Dub for 4 nights?
Thanks loads.Looking forward to your reply.

Syl - there are two main ways between Stari Grad and Hvar. The old road goes along the spine of the mountains. The new road involves a tunnel and going along the southern coast of the island - it's a more modern (wider) road than the mountain road.

Add a few comments about Croatia. We loved Split and there is a wonderful charming hotel that has a lovely location. It's the Park. They were gracious beyond words and breakfast or drinks on their terrace is memorable. Get a room with a view. Three days in Trogir sounds like two too many.... Get a private guide in Split. It's an amazing city. Also, if you can get to Upper Ston on the Pellajc Peninsula, there's an extraordinary restaurant. Don't remember its name, but it is the only one. The town on Ston, at the end of a deep inlet is lovely and was once very, very rich because it had salt. If you can take a ferry for the day from Dubrovnik to Shippan Luka, do it. It's lovely. Tiny little town, beautiful inlet, wonderful simple fish restaurant just by the tiny town (with a couple of medieval buildings. Walk from town to the interior of the island. It's gorgeous with tiny farms, vineyards, beautiful little farm houses.

Croatia is just fabulous.

Nancy,
Absolutely great trip report! We’ll be in Croatia in Sept :)

From Stari Grad to Hvar – how do you know new vs. old road? Are they marked in English? We’ll get in Stari Grad in the evening, we need to take the ‘safer’ road.

You mentioned that you missed the exit for Plitvice Lakes – does anyone know what road we need to take from Zagreb for the Lakes? Is the exit name ‘Plitivice’ or something else?

When leaving Hvar island, the original thought was to take the ferry back to Split then drive the coast to Dubrovnik (maybe a day trip from Dubrovnik to Peljesac Peninsula – we would probably need to rent a car for the day, since we drop off the car when we arrive in Dubrovnik). Now, after reading your report, I have second thoughts…your way via Sucuraj sounds great, too. What do you think? How long was the drive from Stari Grad to Sucuraj? Some people on this board advice against that drive…road too narrow, no railings, etc. Would you recommend it? Any details and/or other thoughts on these 2 options would be appreciated.
Thanks

I noticed someone, Nancy maybe, said Air France sucks. We are flying it in September. Can you PLEASE tell me why you think that? I would rather get on the plane forewarned so I can deal with whatever they do or don't do. We flew them about 8 yrs. ago and it was good. What happened? Thanks.

xyz:

There should be an exit toward Plitvice Lakes National Park, (Plitviczka Jezera)about 140 kms. south of Zagreb. Get a good map of Croatia at Barnes and Noble or Borders.

Stu T.

Drat! I was going to try to take the Korkula - Stari Grad ferry to avoid the Sucaraj - Hvar town drive, but it does not run on the one day I need it. Double Drat!!

Ok, so it is back to the choice of the more difficult drive across Hvar or driving all the way up to Split and taking that ferry over. I think we will white knuckle it unless the weather and or visibility is poor that day.

I will report on it if we survive.

just a heads up - Footprint just released their updated Croatia guide, 3rd edition. Of all the Croatian guide books I have - I like their's best. Nelles - second. DK Eyewitness - third. For illos - Knopfs, beautifully done.

CartaPisana,

In your opinion, what makes the Footprint Croatia guide better? I've purchased and read the Brandt Croatia guide and thought it is ok, but I am looking for another guide to supplement it for cross-referencing things. I was contemplating getting the Footprint guide, and now hearing your recommendation I'm thinking that's the way to go.

Any information you can share is much appreciated!

Thanks! :)

LCI - Footprint usually contains out-of-the-way places that I've not see listed in other guide books. Their restaurant listing invariably includes places not found on the standard tourist program.

Thanks CP!

Sounds like the type of guide I am looking for!

Thanks Nancy for the report. I am also interested in Croatia. My only experience with a former Eastern European country is Prague, which is amazingly pretty. However, there was some crime targeted at tourists (lots of pickpocketing in the subway) and many dishonest merchants cheated tourists (eg. our hotel decided to raise the rate upon our arrival though we made a reservation with a stated rate and had a printout of that with us). Was this the case?