Croatia: Havar, Korcula, Dubrovnik or Split?
 

Planning to vacation ( read: relax, sleep late, lay on the beach, quiet meals ) somewhere in Croatia after visiting Prague. I'm not interested in spending 2 days here then 3 days there - I want to stay in one place. I also want to have restaurants to go to (walk to) , a museum to visit, etc. I won 't be there during 'high season' ( July and August ) - either September or May, not sure yet. Any preferences by people who have visited Croatia?

Sorry - meant Hvar

Perhaps someone will chime in who has been to all four, but between Dubrovnik and Split, I would recommend Dubrovnik. We stayed in Split for a day and we had our fill but Dubrovnik we could have stayed in for a week.<BR><BR>We stayed at the Hotel Bellevue in Dubrovnik, we had a wonderful view of the Adriatic and were within walking distance of the Old Town. There was a small beach near the hotel, certainly not Caribbean in nature but I assume adequate for relaxing. The Old Town can be viewed within a day, from Dubrovnik you can take boat trips over to Cavtat, Lokrum and some other places that we didn't get to. Cavtat had some lovely waterside restaurants and the visit there was a relaxing way to spend a day. <BR><BR>You can also take a bus trip into Montenegro from Dubrovnik. We actually took a cab but were uncertain whether they were going to let us in without visas so a bus trip might be a safer bet. Montenegro was beautiful ad I'd highly recommend it as a day trip if you can rip yourself away from relaxing.<BR><BR>We went at the end of May before the crowds came and it was a great time to go. The water was too cold to swim in but that wasn't a big concern for us.

Mark--<BR>I found Hvar the most wonderful place to relax. You'll have to take a ferry over to the island (we had a car and took it on the ferry) and then drive to the village. Or without a car, you can get a boat right to the harbor. We stayed at the Palace Hotel, right on the harbor. It's an enchanting island to relax, wander around, and meet people. There are also plenty of good restaurants. Ferries are available at the harbor to take you to other islands, including one with a nude beach if you wish.

I've never been to Korcula, but I've been to Dubrovnik, Hvar and Split. All 3 places are wonderful and beautiful<BR><BR>Is this your first time to Croatia? How many days do you have?<BR><BR>Depending on what you are looking for I'm not sure which city to recommend. Going in May is kinda early to be laying out by the beach going in early September is a better option.<BR><BR>Hvar town on Hvar Island is where I'm assuming you are referring too when you ask about going to Hvar. The town is quite charming, quaint, old cobblestone roads. I'm not sure if there are any museums there, if there are, I didn't go.<BR><BR>Dubrovnik is wonderful, especially if this is your first time to Croatia. Plenty of restaurants, cafe's and beaches. There are the city walls, museums, etc.<BR><BR>If you are considering Split,you may want to stay in an area that is close to the center of town, but not in the center of town. Omis, Trogir are nice options - about 20 minute drive to the center of Split. Each has it's own tiny center too. Also, near Split is Makarska, Brela, Baska Voda - these places have FANASTIC beaches.<BR><BR>I would also recommend Zadar. Another cute, quaint town... many cafes, restaurants and beaches.<BR><BR>Nina

Thank you for all the information. <BR><BR>Nina - This will be my first time to Croatia. I'm hoping to have at least 5 (max 7) full days, excluding travel days. I'm leaning towards Dubrovnik mainly because it is my first time and there looks to be plenty to do in the surrounding area. One of my co-workers is from Korcula and praises its beauty. Defintely going in September. Hvar still intrigues me. <BR><BR>Once again, thanks for all the input. Anybody else?

Dubrovnik had beautiful weather in September. There is no beach, per se, but a beautiful coast with rocks. Some people were swimming but it was too cold for me. Wonderful mediterranean food and the old city is full of cafes and very lively at night with people out walking and chatting.

I would like to hear more about the area from Koper to Zadar. We are going to be sailing this region for about 10 days the first part of May. We will be staying aboard most nights and sailing about half of the day. We want to visit islands and beaches....is it going to be too cold? Side trip on land are also possible we will be going from marina to marina....

Now I want to pack my bags and go to Dubrovnik..what a great thread. I'm adding Croatia to my ever-growing list of places to visit.That's one reason I love/hate this board.

I'm finding these posts interesting. A couple of years ago we wanted to go to Dubrovnik and I pictured staying in some small hotel within the old city. I love the feel of an old city and wanted to wander at night among restaurants and cafes. But all my research led me to believe that there were no such places there. We didn't go, because I didn't really want to stay outside the city somewhere at a resort type hotel. Was I wrong? Are there some small hotels right in the city, or at least as Kris suggests, within walking distance?

It has been a long time since we last visited the Dalmantian Coast. In fact it was Yugoslavia then. If you would like to find out background information about the area look up "Black Lamb..Green Falcon" by Rebecca West. It was probably the best guide book we had even though it was 25 years old when we made our visits. In the light of the recent history in the area the book is super background. Be prepared it is more than 1000 pages.

I'm finalizing my flight ($480 round trip in Spetember) and hotel this week. <BR><BR>Found a great web site:<BR><BR>http://www.croatia.hr/home.php<BR>

Hey Mark: I haven't been to the Islands, but I'd definitely weigh in for Dubrovnik over Split. We stayed at the Hotel Excelsior, which was just great (although pricey by Croatian standards). The city itself is lovely, the people were friendly, the water clear and the food delicious. We loved it. I do hear the Islands are amazing too. Split was something of a disappointment in comparison to Dubrovnik, although interesting in its own way. Have a great time.

I have tentative reservations at the Hotel Excelsior. I'm hoping to take a ferry trip or two to various islands, specifically Korocula. <BR><BR>Ken - Can you remember any specific restaurants in Dubrovnik? Obviously the seafood will be fresh. Did you try any of the Croatian red wines? I also hear there is a Croatian "champagne" (sparkling wine).

topping....

Patrick, try this link to see the hotel options in Dubrovnik<BR><BR>http://www.dubrovnik-online.com/english/hotels/hotels_list/hotels_list.html<BR><BR>It appears that there is a hotel closer than the one we stayed at which is the Imperial but I don't believe that there are any hotels actually in the old town although it might be possible to get a private room in the old town. There also appears to be some on the other side of the old town that look to be about 10 minutes away (the Excelsior being one of them). The old town is actually quite small, I think having hotels directly in it would ruin the charm.<BR><BR>The Hotel Bellevue isn't a big resort hotel, probably only 20-30 rooms. We liked it because of the proximity to the old town (10-15 minute walk)and the view of the Adriatic. We did wander around at night in the old town, never felt unsafe.

Mark, there is a whole cobblestone street with just restaurants - outside seating in the old town.<BR><BR>If you are on the main street called the "Stradun" in Dubrovnik you will see little walkways branching off to the right and left. The side where it is just a staircase is where you want to go. Go up the staircase (any of them will do) and the next street over is the street with all the restaurants. I've been to several restaurants there and everything was delicious. Especially the seafood. Bon Apetit! or in Croatian "Dobar tek"<BR>Nina

Thanks Nina

Hey Mark. Good call on the Excelsior; I think you'll enjoy it. As to restaurants, I'm afraid I don't particularly remember any names. Maybe "Marco Polo?" I seem to recall that was a place where I had great grilled lobster. Anyway, there are tons of places in the Old City, and you can just sort of wander down from the Excelsior and see what looks good. Generally, we didn't go wrong anywhere. I had grilled calamari and mangold (some kind of spinach) the first night and had to force myself to try something different, it was so good. Awesome seafood. We did have some pretty decent red wine in Croatia, and some better whites. I'd definitely drink the local stuff. I can't say it was spectacular, but living near Wine Country in California we're probably pretty spoiled. We spent 4 months traveling the world last year, and Dubrovnik ended up right at the top of the list. So I hope you'll have a great time. Enjoy!! (By the way, Zagreb is a surprisingly cool city too. If you have to route through there on your way, I'd probably encourage an overnight. Kind of like a combination of Prague before it was commercialized and Paris. Ciao, K

Mark,<BR>Please remember to post and tell us all about your trip when you return.<BR><BR>Now I've added Zagreb...<BR><BR>M.

Thanks Ken. <BR><BR>I hate to admit but I'm really excited about this already - only 6 more months to go. I'll defintely post updates regarding information or books I have found informative.

Got my ticket - my hotel reservations - yee haw.<BR><BR>Bought 3 guide books:<BR><BR>Lonely Planet, Croatia - Lots of information about specific cities, towns, villages, islands, ferries, beaches, restaurants, etc. - very comprehensive - but somewhat dry A few photographs<BR><BR>Insight Pocket Guide, Croatia - Nice photographs, great pull out map. Provides a nice over view of Croatia - highlights specific things to see, etc. Felt more "magaziney".<BR><BR>The Rough Guide to Croatia - Like LP, lots of information, a few photographs - I prefer this guide to LP - the writing style is a bit more agreeable.<BR><BR>Now I want to find some historical books regarding Croatia and the Balkans. Any personal recommendations?

<BR>Now I want to find some historical books regarding Croatia and the Balkans. Any personal recommendations<BR><BR>The best: "Black Lamb, Gray Falcon" by Rebecca West. about 60 years old and 1000 pgs.

I concur about Rebecca West's book. I'm reading it right now and its very interresting, albeit long... Also, there are several books by Robert Kaplan - that he talks about the Balkans. I loved Balkan Ghosts in college and have just bought another one that he wrote about hte balkans.

The length of the Black Lamb, Grey Falcon seems a bit daunting. I just finished a book about Istanbul that wound up mainly focused on geneology - who begot who, a tad bit dry after awhile - so I'd like to avoid a repeat. I believe BLGF is about all of Yugoslavia. I'm interested in specifically Croatia. I know - it's hard to separate the two. Thanks for the Robert Kaplan suggestion.

topping for Cynthia...

Update: Started reading "The Balkan Wars" by Andre Gerolymatos. Focuses more on historical influences like the Battle of Kosovo, the Ottoman Empire, the Eastern Othordox Church, etc on the area known as the Balkans. Very interesting read. His observations about the assination of Franz Ferdinand in Sarajevo (on the 525th anniversary of the Battle of Kosovo) are fascinating.

Just got back from Croatia and wanted to give some more feedback:<BR><BR>1. Trogir much nicer than Split--very quaint and romantic. I'd stay in Trogir and take a bus to Split (don't miss Split though--very interesting city). I highly recommend Hotel Fontana in Trogir--very clean, nice, small and right off the main promenade near the water. <BR><BR>2. Hvar is great. I don't recommend the Amfora hotel. Other than having its own small beach, its just a large hotel with no character, 10 min walk to town (nice walk though). I'd stay in a private room instead. Great views of the town from Fortress Spanjol.<BR><BR>3. Dubrovnik is beautiful. Stayed at the Bellevue which was very nice, but a bit pricey, relatively speaking. 20 min walk to town, but again, a nice walk. Argentina was being renovated and I'm sure that will be great. Its in a good location, close to the center.<BR><BR>4. Hotel Split in Split was horrible. Its a huge, cold hotel (with a go-go club attached), with nothing nearby, and you have to have a car to get to the center (or take a cab...probably a bus, but a pain). Unfortuantely, no other alternatives to recommend. See point 1.<BR><BR>5. Mljet was a wonderful island. Very peaceful and green. There is only 1 hotel on the island, but we stayed in a private room (where the ferry docks) and it was great.<BR><BR>6. Didn't stay in Korcula, but ferry went by it and it looked wonderful.<BR><BR>7. Took a bus from Dub. to Split. Definitely would have been nice to stop at a couple of the towns, so i actually recommend taking a leisurely drive. Also nice, uncrowded beaches along the way.<BR><BR>Overall, 10 days just wasn't enough. Also, make sure to try the "home" cheese, which can be found at the farmer's market (in trogir, split and dubrovnik. AND try all the fruits and veggies).

Welcome back Kat. Sounds like you had a great time.<BR><BR>I'm off to Dubrovnik in September. One question: did you need to wear foot protection when swimming - I hear the beaches are rocky. Is it smooth rocky or jagged rocky? <BR><BR>Any specific restaurants to recommend? I've heard Atlas Club Nautica (Dubrovnik) is good. <BR><BR>How were the temperatures at night?

Mark, check out www.washingtonpost.com and their travel section. There was a recent article on travels in Croatia and the whole region. (should be available, they do keep them out there for some time) Very interesting with some restaurant recs and all.

Kat,<BR><BR>I'm working on the logistics of getting to Hvar from Dubrovnik other than the Jadrolinija ferry (too limited of a time schedule in the off season). How did you arrive there? It seems like there are more opportunities to get to Hvar from Split, so maybe that should be our destination after Dubrovnik.<BR><BR>Did you have a car at all?<BR><BR>Thanks for any help.

Mark: Yes, you heard correctly there are rocky beaches there. The rocks however are not jagged. They are smooth. If you still find the rocks hard on your feet you can always get some rubber/jelly shoes over there - you can find them pretty inexpensively in most markets/kiosks.<BR><BR>Nancy: You are right about more opportunities to get to Hvar from Split. They also offer hydrofoils to Hvar from Split which can cut the time to get there from 2 1/2 hours to closer to 1 - 1 1/2. You can also go to the island of Brac from Split as well. Having a car in Croatia makes things a lot more convenient.<BR><BR>Nina

Thanks Nina. I'm looking so forward to Dubrovnik.

Thanks, also, Nina. Were you there in off season? We are thinking about going mid May and I've noticed the guide books list limited transportation during that season. I was hoping to avoid renting a car, and just traveling by water through Croatia, and train and bus elsewhere.<BR><BR>Mark, I hope you have a great trip and post when you get back. What resource has given you the most information to help you plan your trip? I've only found 1 or 2 guidebooks so far. We're going to include Slovenia as part of our trip.<BR><BR>Nancy

Nancy: Unfortunately I have never been there in May. I don't think travelling by bus from town to town would be a problem though.<BR><BR>Which towns do you plan on visiting? Have you been there before? I have found the following guidebooks to be helpful, if you haven't looked at these ones yet:<BR><BR>*Lonely Plane - Croatia<BR>*The Rough Guide to Croatia<BR>*Explore the World Nelles Guide - Croatia Adriatic Coast<BR><BR>Mark: Is this your first time to Croatia?<BR><BR>Nina<BR>

Nancy -<BR>Of the three guides I have about Croatia - Lonely Planet, Insight and Rough Guide - I like the Rough Guide best. See post dated <BR>03/17/2002, 11:49 am for review of each one.<BR><BR>Here are some web sites I found helpful and enjoyable:<BR><BR>http://www.croatia.hr/home.php<BR><BR>http://islands.zems.fer.hr/index.html<BR><BR>http://www.dubrovnikportal.com/eng/<BR><BR>http://pages.infinit.net/mljet/prva.htm<BR><BR>http://www.hvar.hr/<BR><BR>http://www.korcula.net/<BR><BR>http://www.visit-croatia.co.uk/<BR><BR>http://www.hotel-excelsior.hr/eng/index.html <BR><BR>http://www.villa-dubrovnik.hr/home.html<BR><BR><BR>

Zdravo Nina -<BR>Yes it's my first time. I've been reading a very interesting book about the Balkans in general. Found on Chowhound.com that there are some Croatian / Istrian restaurants in Astoria, Queens. Starting to look at digital cameras. And of course, I have a phrase book. I was waffeling about staying at the Excelsior - especially now with the exchange rate. <BR>I haven't had a vacation since December and I've read some very favorable reviews (it should be a lot more lux for what their charging) and the views look incredible - so I'm staying with the Excelsior. I also met someone through Virtualtourist.com who lives in Dubrovnik and has given me suggestions.

Mark: Excelsior is a good choice. The location is perfect and the beach in front of the hotel is absolutely beautiful. You are walking distance to the old town too.<BR><BR>When you are there, you must absolutely try the seafood & cevapcici (grilled meat). Oh, and don't forget the ice cream - it's really good.<BR><BR>I hope you have a wonderful trip!<BR>Nina<BR>P.S. Do not forget the insect repellent!

Thanks for the links and info about books, guess I should have read the thread a little more carefully. I've got Lonely Planet & Insight Guide, so will check out Rough Guide.<BR><BR>Nina, this is my first trip to Croatia and I'm combining it with a couple other countries (I'm sure I will have to revisit Croatia again). Right now, I'm planning on flying into Munich, spending a few days in Salzburg before taking the overnight ferry to Dubrovnik. Tentatively, I have 3 nights in Dubrovnik, then 2 in Hvar before catching the Sunday ferry back to Rijeka. I'm including Slovenia from there before returning to Munich.<BR><BR>The northern islands look wonderful too and I'm hoping to visit those some other time, maybe on a northern Italy trip.<BR><BR>Do you think the Excelsior is in a superior location than Bellevue? And are you familiar with Hotel Palace in Hvar? <BR><BR>I really appreciate the information, it is all very helpful.

Nancy, I thought the Bellevue and the Excelsior were both in good locations just opposite directions out of the old town. It was no more than a 15 minute walk to the old town from the Bellevue.<BR><BR>I thought the Bellevue was nice, especially for what we paid for it. There was a good view from the balcony of the sea, the breakfast was good and was across the street from a bakery with some yummy meat pastries. I think the Excelsior would have the nicer view and sounds like it might have a few more amenities but for us (we tend not to spend much time at our hotels) the Bellevue was perfect and affordable.<BR><BR>And Nina's suggestion for ice cream was a good one, I thought it was better than any we tried in Italy.