Croatia
 

HELP!
My son is getting married in September and they were planning to honeymoon in Costa Rica. With all the Zika, they have been advised to take another road. We are travelers, but not been to Croatia. They have 8 or 9 days. Flights are reasonable, my son was in the country years ago briefly for a couple of days. They are looking for a time for relaxation, beach time, and have heard about the fabulous waterfalls. Please advise regarding destination for flight in and flight out. HELP!!!!! Looking for nice accommodations. Many thanks!

September is a great time to visit Croatia - should still be warm enough to swim in the ocean if they want to but the season hasn't ended yet.

They could fly into Zagreb, out of Dubrovnik, rent a car in between. Stop at Plitvice Lakes National Park two hours south of Zagreb. Then continue to Split, Dubrovnik, and an island or two (e.g. Korcula or Hvar). They might drop the car in Split and head on to an island by catamaran, then take catamaran or ferry (or the bus) on to Dubrovnik. They won't need a car in Dubrovnik unless they want to do self-guided day trips.

Dubrovnik is touristy and gets a lot of cruise ship tour groups during the day, but at night things calm down and the town is magical.

Read through some of the Croatia trip reports here. Pick up a Rick Steves Croatia/Slovenia book. Watch the Rick Steves PBS travel shows about Croatia (free on YouTube). Ask more specific questions.

I would strongly recommend a good guide book or two. They might check a few at their local library to see which ones seem most helpful to them. FWIW, I thought the <i>Rough Guide</i> by far the best of the half dozen or so I used when planning my time in the area (and that included the <i>Rick Steves</i> guide, which I found, by far, the <u>least</u> helpful -- there are differences and people differ in their preferences ;-) ).

With only 8 or 9 days and an understandable desire for some time to just relax, I would recommend focusing on just one part of Croatia: perhaps (1) Dubrovnik and surrounds, or (2) Split and surrounds, or (3) Istria and surrounds. The latter two would most easily accommodate a visit to the magnificent lakes and waterfalls of the Plitvice Lakes National Park. If they choice Split and surrounds (#2 on my list), they could include both the Plitvice Lakes and Krka National Parks (also known for its waterfalls).

IMO, they might want to focus their initial research on the area in and around Split. With the time they have, they could, as just noted, see both the Plitvice Lakes and Krka National Parks; the dynamic city of Split itself (which has an airport); spend a bit of time on one of the islands that can be easily reached from Split; and maybe fit in another site or two of particular interest -- and there is a LOT to be seen in the area!

Hope that helps!

Many many thanks for your insight, I want to book the flight (our wedding gift) then they are on there own. I know that they want to visit Plitvice Lakes and probably Krka national Park. As far as flights, should I book in/out of Split or into or out of Split and one of the other cities mentioned?Thanks again

Zagreb is a little closer to Plitvice than Split is, but if airfares or airline schedules work better for Split vs. Zagreb, I wouldn't hesitate to book one over the other myself. Both are relatively small airports, and both should have good car rental options.

Zagreb seems more likely to have better international connections. I would compare flying into both airports: connection times, total travel times, fare, etc. I like Kayak for checking flight schedules, though I prefer to book directly on the airline's website if the fare is the same. (I hate Orbitz and Travelocity unless they save me a lot of money - all they do is add a middleman to the transaction and make potential changes to my ticket more expensive and more complicated.)

Sometimes, you can find a much cheaper/better international flight into western Europe from north America, then take a cheap flight on something like easyJet to Split, but that adds extra complication. (As an experienced traveler, I have done that many times from Amsterdam, though, and it has always worked out for me.)

Of course, if they have any interest in spending time in Zagreb itself, then flying into Split is not a good choice.

What a lovely wedding gift! :-)

I agree that the logical cities for flights would be Split and Zagreb, and will throw in a few other considerations:

... As noted above, with their time, I think staying in and around Split might make most sense, given what you've said of their interests and time frame. If they opt for Istria and nearby locations, then flying into and out of Zagreb might make most sense.

... Although you might find cheaper flights by booking an international flight to a city in Europe and then a cheaper flight from there on, doing so can eat time (which I would guess is precious on this trip), you would need to be sure to route into and out of the same airport -- or allow plenty of time to get from one to another, and you / they would want to make sure the luggage limits on each leg would accommodate their needs and/or that they are willing and able to pay any extra fees.

... If they are flying from anywhere that might result in jet lag, make sure they are either going to stay in that city for a day or two before moving on or are going to rely on public transportation to move on. (Although not everyone is aware of it, mounting evidence indicates that driving with jet lag is just as dangerous as driving drunk, even if people aren't aware of any symptoms.)

For September and 8-9 days, I would advise one of the following, and all are great--choose the best flights to maximize convenience/time in country. I have visited four times with only one plane change each time.
Into Zagreb and out of Split (if they want to visit Plitvice)
Split round trip (would do Krka instead of Plitvice in this case)
Into Dubrovnik and out of Split or vice versa (Krka still an option)
Round trip Dubrovnik (would then skip Krka, but there are some waterfalls in Bosnia if they want to drive)
I am assuming you are American, and there seem to be fewer flight options into Zadar, but also check Split-Zadar open jaw (convenient for Plitvice).

My favorite beaches are on Vis, but they would want to rent a car or scooter while there (bikes if they are the super fit types, or even small boats if they are experienced).
There is a honeymoon caliber hotel in Vis, but renting apartments is quite the norm in Croatia and you get excellent value--plus kitchen, balcony, etc.

Thank you!!!!
Found a great flight into Split and out of Zagreb.
Is it best to fly from Split to Zagreb?
Will they need a car to get to Plitvice (which I believe is on their list to do)?

No, they won't need a car to get to Plitvice. They can take a bus from Split and then another bus from Plitvice up to Zagreb. And they could stay overnight in one of the park hotels - overpriced but convenient, as they allow you to walk right into the park and are close to the bus stop.

But where else will they go? Dubrovnik is one of the highlights of Croatia - I hope they will get down there. From Split, it's about a four hour bus ride south. It might make sense to take a bus south from Split, then rent a car when they head north from Dubrovnik and drop the car in Zagreb.

It wouldn't make sense to fly from Split to Zagreb if they were going to head back south two hours to Plitvice. It makes more sense to take the bus to Plitvice then another bus on the Zagreb - or rent a car. Driving in Croatia is easy, and car rental in September should not be expensive, even as a one-way rental.

I meant to add: it's not necessarily convenient to have a car in Dubrovnik - a pain or an extra expense to park it and probably not necessary unless they want to use it to do day trips. It would make getting south from Split to Dubrovnik easier, though. Yes, I'm presuming they will go to Dubrovnik.

Congratulations on finding a good flight!

While I agree with Andrew that Dubrovnik is one of Croatia’s highlights, I must say that I, personally, would <b>not</b> recommend including it in an 8 or 9 day honeymoon that involves flying into Split and out of Zagreb and during which the goals are relaxtion, beachtime, and waterfalls – your son and his fiance are already going to have to make some difficult decisions about what to do and what to skip without adding a trip to Dubrovnik into the mix! Instead, they might want to make Dubrovnik a key part of another, later trip to Croatia, one that could include Korcula and/or Kotor and other parts of Montenegro and/or Mostar and/or any number of other delightful destinations in that part of the country. JMO, though – maybe they could consider identifying their priorities and plotting them out on a calendar to see what will work best for them?

When I planned my time in the area (which was in 2009), a number of the sources I consulted noted that while there are buses from Split to the Plitvice Lakes and from there to Zagreb, buses going through the Plitvice Lakes don’t always stop to pick people up. (They will leave people off, of course.) I have no idea if that was, or is, true, but they might want to see what they can learn about it. Another option would be to pick up a car when leaving Split (or Zadar or wherever works for them), visit the Plitvice Lakes (with an overnight either before or after, depending on their preference), and then return the car in Zagreb.

Either way, if they want to see the Plitvice Lakes, it would not make sense to fly from Split to Zagreb.

You can take a bus from Split to Plitvice, and on to Zagreb but I wouldn't do it. I have seen too many perplexed people waiting on the side of the road in Plitvice, and it is their honeymoon. They should get a car. It will give them more freedom to explore on the way, too.

They might also consider staying at a family owned inn instead of one of the park hotels. I love the Plitvice Miric Inn (no secret on this forum) and when you stay there, you are well taken care of by the family that own the place. They have the most incredible dinners. http://www.plitvice-croatia.com/
Even if they do not have a car, they can still stay there, the property has a van and they will take people to the park and back.

But I think it is better to have a car.

They should try to do a couple of island days too.

Had a bit of a curve ball with a 93 yo mother that required our attention and delayed the honeymoon planning.
Any thoughts and suggestions are GREATLY appreciated.

Here is what my son is thinking...

Day 1: Arrive in Split at 1:45 PM, spend remainder of the day, night, and next day
Day 2: Ferry to Hvar for three nights
Day 3/4 Hvar
Day 5: Ferry (I do not think that there is a flight) to Dubrovnik
Day 6: They had talked about Plitvice
Day 7: Night in Zagreb
Day 8: Fly home from Zagreb

They talked about the "green/blue" caves
Is there an alternative to Plitvice? Seems out of the way for this trip, unless it is a must see.

I hope your mother is OK!

This plan could work, although it strikes me as a bit rushed, leaving extremely little time for Dubrovnik and -- depending on how the timing works out -- little time for Split or Zagreb. (You are correct: They would take a ferry from Hvar to Dubrovnik.)

If they want to see the Plitvice Lakes, then I think they might want to consider skipping Dubrovnik on this trip: From Hvar, take the ferry back to Split, pick up a car, and drive to the Plitvice Lakes. Take rialtogrl's lodging recommendation! Add the "saved" day to Split/Trogir or Hvar or Zagreb, whichever interests them most.

As an alternative to the Plitvice Lakes, they could visit the Krka National Park north of Split before going to Hvar. That park has some glorious travertine-formation falls, in a river rather than a set of lakes. Although not quite a substitute, it is not a bad alternative IMO. The problem, though, is that making this change wouldn't really save them any time, as they would need an extra day in Split to make it work.

The fall and fractured hip certainly set her back both physically and mentally, thank you for your thoughts!
I will pass the info onto my son, many thanks
I am sure that I will be back in touch
Thank you

How will they get back to Zagreb? If by car, Plitvice is basically on the way north - it's only about two hours by car from Zagreb (with a detour off the A1 highway to the slower D1). Krka is a nice park too but in my opinion not a real substitute for Plitvice, which is unique with its dozens of little waterfalls and huge lakes.

Skipping Plitvice makes sense only if they fly back to Zagreb from Dubrovnik, which could work (relatively cheap flights within Croatia on Croatia Airlines).

If they pass up Plitvice, they will fly to Zagreb.
I guess they are going to have to decide top choices for this trip.
I know that they will appreciate any thoughts regarding itinerary reconsiderations.
One reason that they were considering the travel south, is a forest with different varieties of truffles (a love of daughter in law to be)
Thoughts on islands? Is Hvar a good choice? Any suggestions for a hotel. Thank God, it is not the middle of the tourist season with very limited options!
Thank you

I think they'd want Istria (northern Croatia on the coast) for truffles.

The thing is, they really don't have much time to see a lot of things. Yes, they're going to have look at the things they want to do then decide what to leave out. If they want a relaxing vacation that's a little slower, they should probably stick to the coast, mostly, maybe even skip Dubrovnik (which would be a shame, but it's kind of a detour with everything else). There are just too many constraints: too little time, too many places, and too little time in each. Something has to give. Let them decide what kind of trip they want.

I haven't been to Hvar, only to Korcula. Hvar as I understand it has a reputation for being more upscale and party-culture - the place where celebrities might dock their yachts. I liked Korcula but I stayed in Korcula Town. It's an island with more to see than just the towns, I guess.

Yes, Istria is the place for truffles -- and too far from their other destinations for this trip, IMO.

Hvar is beautiful, although it was too upscale for my tastes. But many people love it, and given the constraints on the itinerary that you have already identified, I would think Hvar a very good choice.

Soooo, after a long day back and forth with my son, here is where we are:

Fly into Split, do you think that they should stay in Split or journey to Trojir?
Next three nights in Hvar. I found a small hotel called Little Green Bay...pretty pricey, but it is their honeymoon. Any thoughts?
Then, my thought is they either go on to Dubrovnik and skip Plitvice or on to Plitvice and ship Dubrovnik, your thoughts? I think that this may be a tough call for them
Once again, thank you for your wonderful insight

I love Split -- I found it dynamic and energetic and lively and vibrant. It has a few extraordinary sites, including (of course) Diocletian's Palace and Cathedral, along with a gorgeous waterfront, one of my favorite markets anywhere, lots of delightful public squares dating from Roman times through medieval ages to modern eras, and several interesting museums.

Tiny Trogir has some of the best stone carvings anywhere in the world, particularly in its cathedral. But it is TINY. And likely (but not necessarily!) more expensive than Split. I enjoyed Trogir and was glad I had a half day there, but I, personally, would stay in Split and visit Trogir. They are only about 1/2 hour apart, though, so their call, and neither choice would be a bad one IMO.

I loved Dubrovnik, so its hard for me to say it ... but I'd skip it this trip, since they already have flights out of Zagreb. They might want to hold off on Dubrovnik until they can also see Korcula and Kotor and maybe Mostar or any of the other delights of that part of the world.

That, and the Plitvice Lakes truly are magnificent!

The Little Green Bay looks sweet, but it must be rather new? I see only 1 review on TA and only 7 on booking.com More importantly, I trust you realize that it is some distance from Hvar Town? Depends on what they want to do and whether they would have a car or not, as it doesn't look like it would be convenient for public transportation on the island of Hvar. I could be wrong....

I didn't love Split. I found Trogir more charming for sure, but it is tiny and explored quickly. Split, even though I personally didn't find it that appealing, is more substantial and more important - and more of a "real city" than a tourist trap. I guess I'd choose Split if I had more interest in history and exploring; I'd choose Trogir if I wanted to relax and chill.

It's still possible to do both Dubrovnik and Plitvice if they really want to. I'd rate both of them above Split (or Trogir), so I'd minimize my time in Split/Trogir probably to one night to allow for the other two places as well as Hvar. Just my opinion; your son will have to decide whether Split is the kind of place he'd love or not, from reading more about it. If they want to relax and not move around so much, I'd probably skip Dubrovnik, because that would save a few hours of traveling, assuming their only flight choice is into Split / out of Zagreb.

Your help has been invaluable. I said that I was not going to be so involved in the planning of this trip, but...they are both so involved with everything else right now, I don t want this to be ignored. When my daughter gets married, we will start planning from the day she gets engaged��
The original plan was Costa Rica, but with Zika and the new misses working at the CDC, it became a no go. I think that Croatia is a great substitute, but unknown to us and way more planning.
I did not realize that Little Green Bay was so far away from the city. I thought that Hvar was a pedestrian island, no cars. I do know that LGB has a boat. I need to get more info from them regarding transportation and surrounding area. I did not find many nicer hotels on Hvar that would be special for a honeymoon, very mixed reviews.

It is kind of hard to figure out exactly where Little Green Bay is. It certainly looks pretty but they would be kind of stuck out there with no car. They could always bring a car over to the island with them.

There are a couple of parts to Hvar Town - the resort side in the west and center of town and the more residential east side. If its resort living they are after, they might like the hotel Amphora (its pretty Vegas-y) or the hotel Adriatic in the center of town. Hotel Adratic has a nice bar at the top, but anyone can utilize it. The walk to the Amphora from the center is really pretty and just past the Amphora is the fabulous Hula Bar. They can rent chairs and just hang out on the rocks or go to the Sunset party.

They could also choose to stay in apartments on the east side, and be staying with Croatians and giving their kuna to Croatians, which is what I like to do. I have recommended the Apartments Komazin many many times here. They are not glitzy or glamorous but they are comfortable and the apartments have views. Its a real neighborhood, no Vegas feeling here whatsoever. The apartments are run by a great guy who will take good care of them - Andro. http://croatia-hvar-apartments.com/
The only problem is he may already be booked up for your dates.
To walk to the Hula bar from Andro's place is one mile. To walk to town, about 1/2 a mile along the sea.

I would not go to Dubrovnik for just one day - but that is just me. The ferry takes a few hours to get down there. If they could spend a couple of nights then fly back to Zagreb, it would be worth it. There are plenty of honeymoon worthy restaurants in Dubrovnik.

I will be in Croatia next month. Maybe our paths will cross!

Hvar Island is 42 miles long (I just checked), and includes several cities and towns in addition to Hvar Town, which is the place most people think of visiting when they think of visiting Hvar. I found Little Green Bay on google maps by leaving out the spaces between the words, and that site says that it's a little under 4 miles from Hvar Town, a walk that would, I think, involve going up and down some hills. And there are at least two different ferry ports on Hvar Island -- Hvar Town and Stari Grad, so knowing which one they need coming and going will be necessary. (There are, I believe, buses that connect the port in Stari Grad to Hvar Town, timed to work with the ferry schedule.)

I urge you to give rialtogrl's recommendations serious consideration -- she's never steered me wrong! And do consider the apartment option -- in Croatia, rooms and apartments are often an excellent alternative to hotels. And if Andro is already booked, maybe he would recommend something suitable? No reason I can think of not to ask!

Your son and future DIL are fortunate to have your help. :-)

I am fortunate to have all of your help!!

Here is the latest:

Fly into Split
2 nights in Split
(DIL researched the parks/lakes/waterfalls) and suggested Krka for less crowd and can swim
3 nights Hvar (they are leaning toward Littlle Green Bay because of the seclusion) that said we are looking into apartments as suggested in the quieter area
2 nights in Dubrovnik, take an early morning flight to Zagreb to connect with a flight to ATL via FRA
I am going to contact Croatia Airlines and see if there is a chance in changing the outbound flight from ZAG to DUB

Thoughts??
I always research and plan the family trips, but this one has been a challenge. My husband and I are planning to visit the Kringle markets in Germany this year...that trip is planned and booked��

If they are going to stay at Little Green Bay I would urge them to get a car so that they can explore the island, unless all they want to do is lay on the beach. Maybe they are planning to get one anyway so they can go to Krka. There are several car ferries over to Hvar every day. They could even drive down to Dubrovnik and drop the car off there when they arrive.

I would not fly back to Zagreb from Dubrovnik on a separate ticket, for a flight home the same day. I would only do it on the same ticket. It sounds like it is a Lufthansa ticket. Give them a call, maybe they can just add the Dubrovnik segment to the existing ticket.

We just got back from Dubrovnik and loved it. It does get crowded in the Old Town during the day... so we avoided that and headed out to the islands.

we:
- arrived mid-afternoon, swam on rocks outside Old Town and then took cable car to mountain to watch sunset
- spent the next day on a sailboat and sailed to Lopud and Silpan. Walked the city walls at dinnertime.
- spent the next day kayaking from Lopud to Silpan to the mainland. Then took an evening sunset sail.
- took a speedboat out for the morning and hit swimming spots and caves.
- flew out that afternoon.

I wished we had built in some more time in the Old Town to see more sights, but we loved our time on the water, swimming, and relaxing.

We had a great apartment and I would recommend it.

OMG, I did not think of adding the flight on to the existing reservation,
absolutely the best idea!
What about renting scooters in Havr?
You have been so helpful, thank you!!!!!!

That plan could suit very well!

Your DIL is right -- swimming is allowed at the Krka National Park, but not in the Plitvice Lakes. They could get there by bus to Skradin and then boat or walk (or boat one way, walk the other), but that could take a large chunk of a day. (I think the bus is about 1.5 hours each way, and then you have to walk or catch a boat and it takes time, too, and then there's the time for the park itself....) Renting a car might be a better option for them.

Make sure they know about the Buza Bar in Dubrovnik ;-) -- there are two, and the one I prefer is marked by a little sign for "cold drinks" by an entrance cut through the wall surrounding the city. They can google it....