Cote d'Azur, Provence itinerary & accommodation, suggestions?
May 1st, 2013, 07:06 AM
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Cote d'Azur, Provence itinerary & accommodation, suggestions?
Hi,
We are a family of 4 (daughters age 9 & 5) travelling to France in Sept-Oct. After 2 weeks in Paris & Burgundy we will be driving south via Annecy to Cote d'Azur & Provence.
Thank you to StuDudley, we have managed to narrow down our itinerary somewhat, but would love any comments or suggestions before booking & finalising all our accommodation.
We like to walk around and soak up the atmosphere. Love to sample good local cuisine. Don't want to stay in very touristy areas, but still want to be walking distance to main attractions while staying in a town such as Nice, and then alternating with tranquility of a country setting.
We are unsure whether to stay 2 or 3 nights in Nice? Also any recommendation for a family hotel / B&B / guesthouse in Nice or St Tropez? Our budget is 100-200Euros per night. Prefer quirky, character rather than too simple (bland) or modern. Would pay more for something veyr special.
week 1 Paris
week 2 Gite in Clomot, Burgundy
2 nights Annecy
1 night Briancon
Drive to St Paul de Vence, via Entreveux
3 nights St Paul de Vence, base for exploring Cote d'Azur
2 nights in Nice, rest from driving
1 (or two?) nights in St Tropez
5 nights - somewhere in the Luberon area as a base to visit western Provence. Ideally would like to find a 'farmstay' style B&B on a working farm (eg chickens & goats etc for the children... is there such a thing in Provence?)
Return to Paris via Lyon for two nights.
Would love to hear from anyone with experience travelling with children in this region. We'd be interested in some activities such as painting workshops, cooking classes, perfume tours in Grasse etc.
Any ' not to miss' sights and experiences?
Thank you in advance!
We are a family of 4 (daughters age 9 & 5) travelling to France in Sept-Oct. After 2 weeks in Paris & Burgundy we will be driving south via Annecy to Cote d'Azur & Provence.
Thank you to StuDudley, we have managed to narrow down our itinerary somewhat, but would love any comments or suggestions before booking & finalising all our accommodation.
We like to walk around and soak up the atmosphere. Love to sample good local cuisine. Don't want to stay in very touristy areas, but still want to be walking distance to main attractions while staying in a town such as Nice, and then alternating with tranquility of a country setting.
We are unsure whether to stay 2 or 3 nights in Nice? Also any recommendation for a family hotel / B&B / guesthouse in Nice or St Tropez? Our budget is 100-200Euros per night. Prefer quirky, character rather than too simple (bland) or modern. Would pay more for something veyr special.
week 1 Paris
week 2 Gite in Clomot, Burgundy
2 nights Annecy
1 night Briancon
Drive to St Paul de Vence, via Entreveux
3 nights St Paul de Vence, base for exploring Cote d'Azur
2 nights in Nice, rest from driving
1 (or two?) nights in St Tropez
5 nights - somewhere in the Luberon area as a base to visit western Provence. Ideally would like to find a 'farmstay' style B&B on a working farm (eg chickens & goats etc for the children... is there such a thing in Provence?)
Return to Paris via Lyon for two nights.
Would love to hear from anyone with experience travelling with children in this region. We'd be interested in some activities such as painting workshops, cooking classes, perfume tours in Grasse etc.
Any ' not to miss' sights and experiences?
Thank you in advance!
May 1st, 2013, 07:33 AM
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Rach70:
From Nice, visit Villa Ephrussy de Rotschild, in Cap Ferrat, a must IMO.Nice and its surroundings have so much to see and to do that I vote one or two moré nights there.
We were in Annecy,Avignon and Nice last september and really enjoyed all of them.
Enjoy your trip!!!
From Nice, visit Villa Ephrussy de Rotschild, in Cap Ferrat, a must IMO.Nice and its surroundings have so much to see and to do that I vote one or two moré nights there.
We were in Annecy,Avignon and Nice last september and really enjoyed all of them.
Enjoy your trip!!!
May 1st, 2013, 07:42 AM
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Jelopez,
thank you, I will definitely add Villa Ephrussy de Rothschild to our list! And you have given me food for thought for adding a day or two extra to Nice... if only I could find a nice family hotel.
Has anyone stayed in the Little Palace in Nice? It is one of few hotels to have a 4 person room available.
thank you, I will definitely add Villa Ephrussy de Rothschild to our list! And you have given me food for thought for adding a day or two extra to Nice... if only I could find a nice family hotel.
Has anyone stayed in the Little Palace in Nice? It is one of few hotels to have a 4 person room available.
May 1st, 2013, 08:54 AM
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Rach70: we were 9 persons, 3 of us, adults, share e a room at hotel Les Cigales, rooms are not really big, but good.
Accross the street is hotel Windsor, usually high in Trip advisor ranking.Les Cigales was also high in T.A. May be you can check if they have something for your family.Location is excellent.
Accross the street is hotel Windsor, usually high in Trip advisor ranking.Les Cigales was also high in T.A. May be you can check if they have something for your family.Location is excellent.
May 1st, 2013, 09:06 AM
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For St. Paul de Vence, I recommend Le Hameau: http://www.le-hameau.com/uk/index.php They have a variety of rooms of different configurations and are very highly rated. This lovely place is located about 100 yards or so outside the walls of St. Paul de Vence. I fondly remember the delicious breakfasts served in their garden with preserves made from fruits from their orchard.
For a farm stay experience in the Luberon, I think you might find such accommodations at some of the Chambres-d'hotes. Here's a place to start looking: http://www.luberonweb.com/chambres-h...eron-Provence/
For a farm stay experience in the Luberon, I think you might find such accommodations at some of the Chambres-d'hotes. Here's a place to start looking: http://www.luberonweb.com/chambres-h...eron-Provence/
May 1st, 2013, 09:07 AM
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In Nice we usually stay at the Mercure Promenade des Anglais, close to the pedestrian rue Masséna and about a 10-minute walk to the old town. Have you considered renting an apartment?
St-Paul-de-Vence is not the best place for a base, as it's very crowded and the drive down to the coast is a bit of a If you do, however, I highly recommend the small inn Le Hameau, just down the hill from St-Paul itself. Staying in Nice would be a better option, as there's quite a lot to see and do, including a lovely antique carousel at the Parc Prince Albert, along the Promenade des Anglais.
In Nice we usually stay at the Mercure Promenade des Anglais, close to the pedestrian rue Masséna and about a 10-minute walk to the old town. Have you considered renting an apartment?
In Grasse you could visit the excellent International Museum of Perfume, which has exhibits of perfume-making equipment through the centuries as well as a fine series of scent bottles going back to ancient Egypt. The top floor has a plant scent garden. There's also a very interesting Provençal museum not far from the main parking lot. The Fragonard company has a large operation in the same area, including.
You and your children would probably enjoy visiting the glass-blowing atelier below the perched village of Biot. You can watch the artisans at work, see the adjacent museum, and browse the large gift shop. Just across the way is the superb International Art Glass Museum, and the small restaurant--much favored by locals; go early--up the way is very good.
St-Paul-de-Vence is not the best place for a base, as it's very crowded and the drive down to the coast is a bit of a If you do, however, I highly recommend the small inn Le Hameau, just down the hill from St-Paul itself. Staying in Nice would be a better option, as there's quite a lot to see and do, including a lovely antique carousel at the Parc Prince Albert, along the Promenade des Anglais.
In Nice we usually stay at the Mercure Promenade des Anglais, close to the pedestrian rue Masséna and about a 10-minute walk to the old town. Have you considered renting an apartment?
In Grasse you could visit the excellent International Museum of Perfume, which has exhibits of perfume-making equipment through the centuries as well as a fine series of scent bottles going back to ancient Egypt. The top floor has a plant scent garden. There's also a very interesting Provençal museum not far from the main parking lot. The Fragonard company has a large operation in the same area, including.
You and your children would probably enjoy visiting the glass-blowing atelier below the perched village of Biot. You can watch the artisans at work, see the adjacent museum, and browse the large gift shop. Just across the way is the superb International Art Glass Museum, and the small restaurant--much favored by locals; go early--up the way is very good.
May 1st, 2013, 09:17 AM
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Here is a B&B in the Luberon with farm animals, including horses: http://www.iha.com/Guest-house-bed-a...von_1444_1.htm
Here is their own website: http://www.pierravon.com/ It looks lovely and the prices are reasonable.
Here is their own website: http://www.pierravon.com/ It looks lovely and the prices are reasonable.
May 1st, 2013, 02:18 PM
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Thankyou for great suggestions so far! We had thought 3 nights within the ramparts of St Paul (cant remember the guesthouse, but the rooms are gingko & biloba!) would be a retreat, & easier for day trips than Nice, but maybe not if its so busy as you say! Will look at cutting this down to two, & have longer in Nice.
May 1st, 2013, 10:36 PM
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Im thinking we might like to splurge on a Belle Epoque style hotel in Nice. Can anyone recommend one that has quad rooms? or at least will fit in an extra bed for the children? (One that won't break the bank!)
Does anyone else have any comments on staying within the walls of St Paul de Vence? I had a originally thought it a good idea, and the accommodation looks lovely, but Underhill has suggested it will be too busy. Would the crowds have died down by the evening? Are there many options for eating out within St Paul?
Sorry - too many questions?
Does anyone else have any comments on staying within the walls of St Paul de Vence? I had a originally thought it a good idea, and the accommodation looks lovely, but Underhill has suggested it will be too busy. Would the crowds have died down by the evening? Are there many options for eating out within St Paul?
Sorry - too many questions?
May 2nd, 2013, 09:24 AM
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For a Belle Epoque hotel in Nice, look at the Negresco--but it's quite pricey.
The crowds die down a bit in St-Paul in the evening, although less so during the summer months. We found dining options fairly limited; the places we thought of going were full up. So be sure to get a reservation.
The crowds die down a bit in St-Paul in the evening, although less so during the summer months. We found dining options fairly limited; the places we thought of going were full up. So be sure to get a reservation.
May 2nd, 2013, 10:01 AM
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We are in Nice right now but staying in Villefranche. Having spent two days exploring Nice, I have to say Nice is is not nice, it is a bit frustrating, noisy, dirty, too much traffic. My wife & I used to bring our kids to Cote d'Azur a few times but we always avoided Nice because it's not that nice with kids. We always picked cleaner and quieter places to stay, preferably places that has a swimming pool so the kids can relax and have fun in their vacation especially after a long day of sightseeing and fighting traffic! We never stayed in downtown Nice just because it's too crazy, hectic and noisy. My wife always tells me that shopping in Nice is not that great in case that is what you have in mind. Monte Carlo is much better and cleaner if you are thinking of shopping with the girls. Many Fodorites don't like Monte Carlo but I'm not sure if they all actually have stayed in Monte Carlo overnight to appreciate how much cleaner and less crazy the city is compared to Nice (if a city environment is what you want). Travelling with kids is different than adults only, we need places that are cleaner and more relaxing. If you have a car, I would recommend staying in the small towns along Corniche Moyenne like EZE, or along Corniche Basse like Cap d'Ail, Villefranche sur Mer, St Jean Cap Ferrat. It will give you a more relaxing vacation feeling. Just do a booking.com or kayak search and set it to your budget limit on Monte Carlo and look at a map to see what nearby towns are where. If you have a car, just stay between Nice and Monte Carlo. With your budget, look into renting apparthotels as they accommodate a family with a kitchen too at much lower cost.
One of our favorite places in Cote d'Azur is St Tropez, it is absolutely worth at least a night or two. It is a beautiful beach town with a wonderful vacation atmosphere as if you're on an island. It has a more intimate feel and there many places to eat in the town square or along the port. As far as budget, there are many less expensive hotels a bit outside town center but an easy drive away.
One of our favorite places in Cote d'Azur is St Tropez, it is absolutely worth at least a night or two. It is a beautiful beach town with a wonderful vacation atmosphere as if you're on an island. It has a more intimate feel and there many places to eat in the town square or along the port. As far as budget, there are many less expensive hotels a bit outside town center but an easy drive away.
May 3rd, 2013, 01:03 AM
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Dax & Underhill, Thank you for your replies. Interesting to hear an alternative view on Nice, and one that i will definitely think seriously about. I might now cut our stay down to 1 night in Nice... maybe.
It is definitely different travelling with children. I never thought I'd be paying so much for accommodation just to ensure everyone is comfortable.
I'm guessing the weather in October on the Riviera could be changeable with warmish days and cool nights? If anyone spends time there in Autumn could you possibly comment on whether a rental with a pool would be worth it, or would it be too cold in early October?
Negresco... ooh I'd love to, I'll check the prices - but might have to save it for a special occasion without the kids!
It is definitely different travelling with children. I never thought I'd be paying so much for accommodation just to ensure everyone is comfortable.
I'm guessing the weather in October on the Riviera could be changeable with warmish days and cool nights? If anyone spends time there in Autumn could you possibly comment on whether a rental with a pool would be worth it, or would it be too cold in early October?
Negresco... ooh I'd love to, I'll check the prices - but might have to save it for a special occasion without the kids!
May 3rd, 2013, 01:23 AM
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Le Hameau is lovely.
You might also try Les Orangers, just outside St Paul but walkable via a footpath. They now have an apartment for rent and used to offer two connecting bedrooms and a small sitting room on an upper level. Most rooms open on the garden. I have not stayed there in years but loved it. They have since added a pool.
http://www.lesorangers.fr/orangers_fr.html (this won't open for me, could be my ipad)
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Rev..._Provence.html
You might also try Les Orangers, just outside St Paul but walkable via a footpath. They now have an apartment for rent and used to offer two connecting bedrooms and a small sitting room on an upper level. Most rooms open on the garden. I have not stayed there in years but loved it. They have since added a pool.
http://www.lesorangers.fr/orangers_fr.html (this won't open for me, could be my ipad)
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Rev..._Provence.html
May 3rd, 2013, 01:51 AM
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About Nice, I like it very much but with kids you might just stay in or near St Paul for the 5 days and go in to Nice for the day. Easy to do by bus from St Paul.
The old town is interesting, pretty market. Near old town there's an old-fashioned carousel, also a petit train touristque (on wheels) which does about an hour tour, with a stop on the citadel. That's the extent of what I know is available for kids, there may be more--the beach (rocky) is right there, weather depending.
Monte Carlo is the last place I'd shop for kids. There is a small amusement park down by the pier, nothing special. The gardens are beautiful.
The old town is interesting, pretty market. Near old town there's an old-fashioned carousel, also a petit train touristque (on wheels) which does about an hour tour, with a stop on the citadel. That's the extent of what I know is available for kids, there may be more--the beach (rocky) is right there, weather depending.
Monte Carlo is the last place I'd shop for kids. There is a small amusement park down by the pier, nothing special. The gardens are beautiful.
May 3rd, 2013, 09:17 PM
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Hi Rach: They finally did clean up all the garbage piles in downtown Nice yesterday and even a couple areas that smelled repulsive for days (thanks to the drunks) were thoroughly cleaned. Apparently this week has been an exception due to the labor day (May 1st) holiday so all the garbage didn't get picked up on schedule. I should not discourage you because now that it's all cleaned up, Nice is really fine, we had a much better time yesterday. The city mayor is trying very hard to improve Nice and I have to admit it has improved a lot within the last 20 years. He does not tolerate immigrants who loiter committing crime, he welcomes productive immigrants, so there are more and more made in china junk stores in some parts of Nice especially in the areas behind the Promenade des Anglais, but a lot less crime and robberies. The biggest improvement is the fantastic public transportation and some green parks that they are still adding.
As far as Monte Carlo, it may not suit everyone, we have a couple friends who live there taking us around to the good places so we get a more in depth impression, beyond the casino square. We also like it because it's always been super safe even after midnight (jetlag) not that Nice is totally unsafe though I would not walk around late at night in Nice. We spent the day in Monaco yesterday and have to comment that they haven't done much to improve their city further, if anything it was over touristed by the busloads in the casino square. I have to admit that Nice is practically as nice and clean as Monaco now.
My kids used to enjoy Monte Carlo because the beaches along Ave Princess Grace (Neptune & Larvotto) have soft sand (imported sand), whereas in Nice the beaches have plain natural pebbles (sharp). We tried to give our kids at least a hour to relax/swim with us instead of dragging them out all day. Yesterday we discovered that our favorite restaurant in Monaco is gone but there is a bunch of new ones. Cafe de Paris was hopping with tourists as usual, I do understand Cathyjoe's concern, Monte Carlo is a bit too much, too artificial in a materialistic way. As far as a great Belle Époque hotel, we really like the Hermitage which has an amazing ocean view even though it's right smack downtown next to Zara, more subdued away from the limelight but really great hotel service where as Hotel de Paris seems to be more of a place to see and be seen (we've never stayed there).
As far as Monte Carlo, it may not suit everyone, we have a couple friends who live there taking us around to the good places so we get a more in depth impression, beyond the casino square. We also like it because it's always been super safe even after midnight (jetlag) not that Nice is totally unsafe though I would not walk around late at night in Nice. We spent the day in Monaco yesterday and have to comment that they haven't done much to improve their city further, if anything it was over touristed by the busloads in the casino square. I have to admit that Nice is practically as nice and clean as Monaco now.
My kids used to enjoy Monte Carlo because the beaches along Ave Princess Grace (Neptune & Larvotto) have soft sand (imported sand), whereas in Nice the beaches have plain natural pebbles (sharp). We tried to give our kids at least a hour to relax/swim with us instead of dragging them out all day. Yesterday we discovered that our favorite restaurant in Monaco is gone but there is a bunch of new ones. Cafe de Paris was hopping with tourists as usual, I do understand Cathyjoe's concern, Monte Carlo is a bit too much, too artificial in a materialistic way. As far as a great Belle Époque hotel, we really like the Hermitage which has an amazing ocean view even though it's right smack downtown next to Zara, more subdued away from the limelight but really great hotel service where as Hotel de Paris seems to be more of a place to see and be seen (we've never stayed there).
May 4th, 2013, 06:29 AM
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Cath,
Thank you for more info regarding Nice. If, as you say, it is easy to get to Nice via St Paul, then i think we will just use St Paul as a base and bus into Nice. The place we have found in St Paul looks gorgeous, it will fit the 4 of us, and it is available for our dates. Can't ask for more than that!
Dax,
thank you for the up to date, and very real view of Nice! It hasn't put me off staying there at all, but we'll probably just make it a day trip, as it sounds like many of the sights are outside of Nice. We are spending time in Paris, Annecy, Lyon & possibly a night in St Tropez (due to a recommendation by Dax & others here on the forum) so i think it would make sense to base ourselves in a smaller town.
We're still in two minds whether to venture to Monaco. I like the idea of it... and even if we just go to check out the garden around the casino, its not like it's far out of our way.
Thank you for more info regarding Nice. If, as you say, it is easy to get to Nice via St Paul, then i think we will just use St Paul as a base and bus into Nice. The place we have found in St Paul looks gorgeous, it will fit the 4 of us, and it is available for our dates. Can't ask for more than that!
Dax,
thank you for the up to date, and very real view of Nice! It hasn't put me off staying there at all, but we'll probably just make it a day trip, as it sounds like many of the sights are outside of Nice. We are spending time in Paris, Annecy, Lyon & possibly a night in St Tropez (due to a recommendation by Dax & others here on the forum) so i think it would make sense to base ourselves in a smaller town.
We're still in two minds whether to venture to Monaco. I like the idea of it... and even if we just go to check out the garden around the casino, its not like it's far out of our way.
May 5th, 2013, 05:37 AM
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I think you've made a good decision. I notice that you will be driving through Burgundy all the way down to St Paul, so you don't need to take the bus/train in Cote d'Azur at all. I would not make Monte Carlo as a primary daytrip destination, I would recommend Villefranche sur Mer, Eze & Villa Ephrussi in St Jean Cap Ferrat before I recommend Monaco as a daytrip. Another jewel to visit by car is Peillon which is about a 20 minute drive from Nice. It is a truly unspoilt (uncommercialized) stunning hilltop walled village, you'll see what I mean when you approach this village which is perched on top of a promontory rock like a monastery. The town alleys inside are all on a vertical slant with a few natural bridges crossing each other diagonally, the downside is the entire village has no restaurant and hardly any tourist, it is the opposite of Eze which can sometimes be covered with wall to wall tourists from the cruise ships. However Eze has Chateau Eza which has a garden restaurant with an amazing view of cote d'Azur.
May 5th, 2013, 10:52 AM
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The "real view of Nice" is just one person's opinion--many of us love the city. For one thing, it's a good public-transport hub. For another, there is a wealth of historic buildings, fine museums, and good restaurants.The "downtown" area is actually fairly small, as is the old town. We didn't find it noisy and dirty at all, but then for us Monte Carlo is very sterile and St-Tropez too glitzy.
May 6th, 2013, 03:21 PM
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Hi Cath, we are just waiting on confirmation of our booking at place called "La Maison aux Bonsais". It's within the walls of St Paul de Vence and looks beautiful. http://www.maisonauxbonsais.fr/
Underhill, yes I do agree with you, I also love an atmospheric location with historic buildings, access to good restaurants and people watching, but we've decided to keep Nice as a day trip to save moving accommodation too often.
Dax & Everyone - Thankyou SO MUCH for your wonderful sightseeing recommendations! I have made a note of every single one of them & hope we have time to do them all, and also have a relaxiing family holiday.
I think that's it for Cote d'Azur planning... I'm going to post a new thread for the Luberon.
Underhill, yes I do agree with you, I also love an atmospheric location with historic buildings, access to good restaurants and people watching, but we've decided to keep Nice as a day trip to save moving accommodation too often.
Dax & Everyone - Thankyou SO MUCH for your wonderful sightseeing recommendations! I have made a note of every single one of them & hope we have time to do them all, and also have a relaxiing family holiday.
I think that's it for Cote d'Azur planning... I'm going to post a new thread for the Luberon.
