Costa del Sol in December
 

First visit since 1998. Dec. 18 - 25, based at the Marriott Playa Andaluz, with car Last minute research assist requested:

Last time, we visited Granada, Sevilla, Gilbraltar, Malaga (some), Rondo, Mijas and a couple other white towns. Definitely plan to hit Cordoba this time, might repeat Sevilla.

Other suggestions please. We're active 60's -- enjoy art, architecture, history, culture, amateur (!) travel photography, museums, Judaica, walking, hiking ... oh! and eating (I MISS ajo desperately), so the Costa del Sol off-season is obviously ideal. Speak intrepid tourist Spanish, read well enough to tackle untranslated museum labels etc. Going off the beaten track doesn't faze us.

We didn't spend much time in Malaga itself - any recommendations there? We did not get east of Malaga or west of Gilbratar -- Nerja intrigues me, also Montefrio, from Lawrence Boehme's material (great architectural descriptions). Mountain walks anywhere in the region?

So, what do you suggest? Things to see and do and where to eat. Preferred guidebook/map?? (and our plane Christmas Day isn't til 4 pm -- any brainstorms for how to spend the time that day, not in church?) [and thanks for the links in the guidebook thread]

Málaga city is fabulous. A chance to experience genuine Andalusian atmosphere, excellent tapas bars, cafés, and perhaps the most easy-going people in all of Andalucía.

Within three hundred meters in the center, you'll find the recently excavated Roman theater, the 8-11th century Moorish Alcazaba (much older than Alhambra in Granada), the great 16th century Cathedral and both Picasso's birth-place and the new Picasso museum (2003).
"Málaga: Authentic charm of an overlooked treasure"
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/ci...-treasure.html

About Málaga in Andalucía Magazine:
http://www.andalucia.com/magazine/en...ed2/malaga.htm

I can recommend Don Curro as a good value hotel in the middle of everything.
http://www.booking.com/hotel/es/mala...ncurro.en.html

Have some typical Málaga wine at old and traditional Antigua Casa de Guardia close to the hotel. http://www.antiguacasadeguardia.net/

Lots of great tapas bars/restaurants, but I will especially recommend both traditional and innovative tapas at El Tapeo de Cervantes, seafood tapas at La Campana in Calle Granada, 35 or traditional Cortijo de Pepe in Plaza la Merced, 2. All close to central Plaza de la Constitución:
Tapeo de Cervantes: http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restaur...Andalusia.html
La Campana: http://11870.com/pro/la-campana-malaga
Cortijo de Pepe: http://www.globalcitybreak.co.uk/tra...-bar-in-malaga

I can also recommend the many waterfront seafood restaurants in Pedregalejo just east of the city center. Delicious food, affordable and popular with locals.

Perhaps have a coffee or chocolate con churros at legendary Casa Aranda, one of the best cafés I've ever been to. http://www.casa-aranda.net/

I come back with suggestions for Nerja.

First, a couple of more things regarding Málaga. Perhaps relax in the Arab bath house El Hammam? http://www.elhammam.com/

Christmas flamenco song and celebration in Málaga both on the night of the 20th and the 22nd. On the 20th, there will be flamenco inspired Christmas songs (villancicos) in the most prestigious flamenco club in the city, Peña Juan Breva at 21.30h. http://www.museoflamencojuanbreva.com/#Portada

Two days later, there will be a flamenco Christmas party the Jerez way (Zambomba jerezana) with great Diego Carrasco in the concert venue Sala Vivero at 22h: http://www.nvivo.es/sala-vivero-salas-175

To give you an idea of villancicos: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c-YmRs7XtsE
And of a Zambomba: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aHp_0...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C-ToY4NBabc

And remember, only 55 mins to Córdoba with the high speed AVE train. You can save more than 50% if you buy the tickets in advance at renfe.com.


NERJA:

If you go to Nerja, be sure to visit the spectacular caves:
http://www.cuevadenerja.es/

When it comes to tapas bars/restaurants, Nerja can offer anything from small and atmospheric local places to Spanish gourmet and high quality foreign restaurants. In almost all restaurants/tapas bars in Nerja you'll get free tapas to choose with every drink of whatever in the bar area. A glass and a tapa will set you back some 1,50€.

My favourite is extremely popular La Marina, as fine as a seafood freiduría you can find in all of Andalucía. Have splurged here on several occations, but it need not be expensive. The three course lunch menu del día is some 8,50€ with drinks included. Or have a drink and a free tapa in the bar.

Top tapas grilled on the spot (conchas finas, mussels, clams, prawns, monkfish, whitebait, baby-squid, sausages, pinchos morunos, mini-burgers etc.) and vibrant atmosphere at El Pulguilla in C/Cristo, just off Balcón de Europa. Here also free tapas to choose with every drink.
http://www.nerjatoday.com/barsandres.../el-pulguilla/

These are some other of my favourites, also very popular with locals:
La Puntilla, a ten min walk up in the old town, is much fun and good food: http://www.nerjatoday.com/barsandres...s/la-puntilla/

El Niño is not only nice tapas but also an excellent traditional Spanish restaurant for a big night out. Great food and the best atmosphere, private photos of the legendary flamenco singer Camarón de la Isla on the walls.
http://www.nerjatoday.com/barsandrestaurants/el-nino/

Next door you'll find Taberna del Pescador (the fisherman's tavern): http://www.nerjatoday.com/barsandres...-del-pescador/

I can also recommend local produce Spanish gourmet oriented restaurants Casa Luque and, perhaps especially, Sollun.
Casa Luque: http://www.casaluque.com/restaurant-in-nerja.php

Sollun: http://www.sollunrestaurante.com/
Customer reviews: http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restauran...Andalucia.html

Drive up in the beautiful Sierra Almijara mountains behind Nerja for walks with spectacular views. http://www.spanishhighs.co.uk/walkin...-almijara.html

More about walks around Nerja: http://www.nerjatoday.com/thingstodo...-around-nerja/

Photo of Nerja:
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2622/...de6a8146_o.jpg

A nice video of the Almijara mountains just inland from Nerja:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7_eRL...eature=related

Guided walks from Nerja and Frigiliana (just above Nerja) every day between 19th and 23rd of December. Mountain hike on the 19th and "Hidden village hike" on the 21st: http://www.hikingwalkingspain.com/p/walks.html

The last time I saw Malaga was in 1956, living with my parents in Torremolinas. At which time it really was a village. Thinking about returning for Christmas next year. Any suggestions on hotels in that area? Something not tall and chain like? Wonderful ideas for things to do and to eat. Sorry for butting in with questions rather than answers but it is exciting to read.

maile,

The coast west of Málaga is now very much high-rise tourist industry, especially Torremolinos and Fuengirola, although things have been done over the past few years to slow things down and to some extent restore or develop things based on more local traditions.

Perhaps take a look at the Pedregalejo area just east of Málaga city center? http://www.andalucia-travelguide.com...galejo-malaga/

Or if you want really peace and quiet, take a look at Maro some 40 min by car east of Málaga: http://www.absoluteaxarquia.com/areas/maro.html

Literally in between you find Nerja.
http://www.nerjatoday.com/
Check out Hotel Carabeo, in seaside Calle Carabeo, the oldest street in town: http://www.hotelcarabeo.com/

The hotel would be in the center of this photo:
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2622/...de6a8146_o.jpg

Thank you again for the ideas -- I have to say that having not been in the area for 13 years, I was VERY disappointed in Marbella, which used to have the feeling in the Casco Antiguo of a very small provincial old town. Now, it's much closer to an average beach resort in a slightly nicer setting. Quelle dommage! (Though the shops did have very cute clothes and leather goods)
Otherwise, I recommend the restaurant Garum on the Paseo Maritimo in Marbella. It's worth it's own topic, which I'll post in a minute.
Today, we are headed to Malaga and Nerja, armed with your suggestions!

We love the area just west of Torremolinos. The wonderful Promenade between here and Benalmedena is lined with excellent fish restaurants especially the area called La Carhuela - these are the apartments we stay in:

http://www.bajondillo.com/#/en/

Malaga is very near and as previous posters have pointed out, is well worth a visit.

stevelyon,

Funny to see the Bajondillo apartments, stayed here as a kid in a mid 70's summer vacation, I remember we lived in 6E.

Next time in Torremolinos/Málaga you should see living legend flamenco dancer Carrete perform in the seafront tablao Los Tarantos in Playamar or in one of the major theaters. At 70 this very special "Fred Astaire of Málaga" is now more popular than ever, touring the grand flamenco stages. http://www.andalucia.com/flamenco/dancers/elcarrete.htm

Here's a recent program from the major Andalusian tv network Canal Sur about "Carrete, the soul of Torremolinos": http://www.canalsuralacarta.es/telev...linos/9111/166

Carrete in action: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c9V0feq5OC0