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ladc Aug 11th, 2003 02:48 AM

Costa de la Luz - not too windy
 
Looking to spend a week in September on the Costa de la Luz coast.

Looking for a beach/relaxing holiday.

Can anyone recommend a good beach/area to stay in that is not too windy - but NOT lacking in charm and not too touristy.

olga Aug 21st, 2003 09:02 AM


Dear ladc,

The wind question is a matter of luck...I just came back from 2 weeks in the Conil/Chiclana area and we had the infamous Levante wind for the entire first week. No one knows how long it lasts, they know only 1 or 2 days before it actually ends. It can happen anytime.

I must say, however, that there was only one day when we really didn't feel like hitting the beach, and we spent it touring around.

I like the Chiclana/La Barrosa area, lots of nice resort hotels but close to nice small towns like the pretty hilltop town Vejer de la Frontera and great dining possibilities.

September is a great month to go, it's less hot and not as crowded. The visitors to this area are mostly germans and spaniards from Madrid or Northern Spain and I must say both kinds are about the most civilized, less noisy, classiest tourists I've seen, which is great for a destination that is still pretty cheap.

This area is quite unspoilt and has less to do than Costa del Sol, but or me it's more authenically spanish and the beaches are marvelous. My favourite: La Loma del Puerco, the last beach in the Chiclana/Barrosa stretch, before Conil. It's the beach by the Riu Chiclana hotel.
When it's real windy, go to the coves in the Roche area, between La Barrosa and Conil. You will need a car to fully enjoy this area, but it is very easy to navigate, except Vejer. There, use the parking lot at the entrance to town and walk, it's a small town, but it is very moorish in style, so the little streets are steep and narrow.

Some dining recomendations:

Beach restaurants ("chiringuitos"):
-Chiringuito La Loma: great atmosphere and music. Modern,classy,very clean, excellent value for money. Great looking table settings with traditional earthenware. Very hip adn busy, for weekends book one day ahead (sorry, forgot the reservation number but they have a big sign outside that lists it, so you can go see it when you get there) .
-Chiringuito Atolón, just north of La Loma, down the stairs from the next parking lot. Just plain and basic, but some of the best fish and seafood I have ever tasted.

Regular restaurants:
-El Jardín (La Barrosa): on the main drag parallel to the beach, excellent quality food -house salad is divine, and I'm no salad lover-, cosy decor and nice outdoor terrace.
-El Timon de Roche: In the Roche luxury development, built into a cliff looking at the ocean, with moorish tents and lamps, candlelight and live music. Awsome food and service and very elegant clientele. Best enjoyed going early to see the sunset from the terrace. The highlight of our trip.

-Restaurante Trafalgar (Vejer de la Frontera): in the main square Plaza de España at the center of the village, with great views of the countryside below and nice people watching, as the whole town seems to congregate in this pretty plaza at sunset. Only had tapas at their sidewalk terrace, but they were intriguing and delicious. The dining rooms inside looked gorgeous. It's a new modern restaurant, quite pricey and small portions, but heavenly flavours.

I hope this helps you. Ah, don't forget to visit the roman ruins at Bolonia (Baelo Claudia) near Tarifa. They are more run down than the ones in Seville or Merida, but the surroundings make it a must see, mountain backdrop, the turquoise beach and the huge white sand dune just in front of it. The chiringuitos by the beach for lunch and a rental umbrella and sunbed for a proper siesta after the tour made this a most satisfying day trip...


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