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Costa Brava or the Atlantic?

Help- We have a wedding in the midi-pyrenees (near Rodez) in July and would like to move on to Northern Spain after that -- about 7-8 days. The thought of trying to capture both Costa Brava and San Sebastian area is daunting, so we are trying to decide one over the other. Any suggestions would be appreciated -- we like hiking, eating :), small towns

We were in both a couple of years ago. Your time may make a difference (our trip was Sept./Oct) but if I had tomake the choice I guess I'd go for Costa Brava. Don't do much hiking but I sure can eat. If you want one spectacular splurge try El Bulli just out of Roses. Ferran Adria is generally regarded as the most inovative chef in the world. He serves tiny dishes in 18 courses or something equally exciting in 3-5 hour dining extravaganzas but he's only at this restaurant during the summer. It was the low point of my trip that we couldn't eat at his place and if you have the stomach and the wallet it could certainly be a major experience for you. We stayed in Roses and enjoyed it--the Almadraba Park just a little outside of town with lovely grounds and an olympic size pool, member of Relaid du Silence chain. Good value. If you like Salvador Dali, this is his area. His museum in Figueres is a trip, most interesting amusing museum I've ever been in. Cadaques is the wonderful little fishing village where he was born. The house he gave his wife is in the area also. Since driving to Cadaque was a challenge I'm guessing that there's plenty of hiking nearby. Happy to supply more detail and recommendations if you pick Costa Brava. Also have info and recs on San Sebastian. Not a bad place just second in my opnion if you must force a choice.

hiking, eating and small towns, eh? The green coast of Spain, from the Basque country to Galicia, sounds perfect for you. 7-8 days is not enough to see it all, depending on your priorities, you may want to focus just on the Basque country, or maybe make it out to the Picos de Europa in Cantabria. Navarra and La Rioja are also excellent for food and hiking. Having a car is essential in this area.

AmyH, My vote too goes to the Cantabrian coast, Bay of Biscay, in and around San Sebastian. I love Green Spain. If you enjoy eating, S.S. makes a great base. Between S.S. and Bilbao there are more than a dozen Michelin starred restaurants-Zuberoa, Martin Berasategui, Akelare, Arzak, Mugaritz to name a few. Or the nearby fishing village of Hondarribia is an absolute delight in July (mostly Spanish tourism) with more fantastic dining spots, a lively bar scene at night and the atmospheric castle Parador of Charles V. We make Hondarribia, near the French border, our base for a week each July in a lovely country home, a "casa rural" (email me if you'd like my Basque Country travel file) and always feel we don't have time to do/see everthing the area provides. As cooter says, there are tons of options. Just a few: From there you can explore the picture perfect red, green and white villages of the French Basque Country (so pretty and pristine and wonderful cooking), you can hike in the Navarra Pyrennes (the Irati forest or part of the Camino de Santiago from Roncevalles on...), tour the little wine towns of the Rioja in Alava like picturesque Laguardia, explore pretty little villages in the undiscovered valleys of the Basque Country near Bilbao such as Axpe in the Duranguesado (where there's also nice hiking and a great B&B) or the area west of Vitoria in Alava (Amurrio & around) which is called the "Switzerland" of the Basque Country. The Caserio Irruaritz there is a secret gem-a 4 star stunning antique filled noble home masquerading as a "casa rural" for 74 euros double. There's also the Guggenheim and Museum of Fine Arts in Bilbao, which is a friendly city on the move with fine cuisine as well and a lively Old Quarter . In San Sebastian itself you can bask on the beautiful La Concha beach or 2 others (when there's sun-it does rain a bit), even take spa treatments at "La Perla". Or there are other beaches in the Urdaibai (a Biosphere reserve) near historic Gernika, like Llaida/Laga or busy Zarautz to the west. Plus the cute fishing villages of Guetaria with fantastic seafood (Elkano) and the very Basque Lequetio. In a week you can get a good "feel" of life in the Basque Lands. Last summer I spent a week on the Costa Brava in early July before moving on to the Basque Country. While I love that area too, it's Catalunya, with its own language, traditions, cuisine, unique culture. You might want to save this "country" within the borders of Spain, a wonderful region too, for another time and explore it more fully. As Julie says, there spectacular dining, not only at El Bulli but also at the Raco de Can Fabes in Sant Celoni (best meal I've ever had). The Costa Brava will be more crowded with intl visitors in July than the Basque Country, Navarra and Cantabria, where the tourism is more national. But whatever you decide, be sure to book months ahead for hotels in July for either region. I tried in Jan. for the Aiguablava Parador in late June, but it was already full. Two very tempting choices. Have fun deciding!

Maribel, you are such an asset to this forum. All of your posts are so filled with helpful information and good tips. Travelers to Spain get special service from you. Thanks for your great advice.

Thanks. A tough choice for sure. Mirabel, I would love more information about the house in Hondaribbia -- the side trips that you mentioned -- are they all reasonably short drives and nice day trips? My thought is to fly into Barcelona, drive into France for the wedding -- 3 days-- one long drive (6 hours)to SS/Hondaribbia -- we then have 8 days to make our way back to Barcelona -- so what to do with the 8 days -- day trips from one locale -- or wend our way across the pyrenees in paradors (if we can get them) and back to Barcelona.

Hi AmyH, Later I'll send you an email to answer the other questions, but for now, about Hondarribia: We stay at "Casa Iketxe" one of 5 "casas rurales" (farmhouse B&B's) there, which is just outside of Hondarribia, 2 min. as the crow flys or 7 min. on back roads by car. There are only 5 rms, and we request #3, which is a large double, private bath with great private terrace, which we enjoy and use a lot, to sit in the evening, sip wine and plan our next day's touring. You can see 8 pictures of the house by going to www.nekatur.net, then type in "Iketxe" in the search box. "Our room" is the 7th photo, next to the last on the left. 2 upstairs, dormer rooms have balconies. #1 downstairs is huge and also nice. It's a new house constructed in traditional Basque farmhouse style that the owner built himself with a great deal of love. The rms have terracotta floors, kilms, handsome hand made furniture, all individually, simply decorated, baths are modern with h dryer. There are no TV's or phones in rms, but there are 2 large lounges (1 with TV) exclusively for guests. Patxi and Fatima, the owners, have their separate private quarters. The doubles cost around 50 euros in high season (July-Aug.) plus 8 euros for cont. brk. with homemade croissants and jams. Patxi is incredibly sweet, warm, funny, unpretentious and friendly (we love him) but doesn't speak much English. His wife, Fatima, does speak English and French. They have 2 little boys and 2 dogs (kept outside). You can also see a picture of the house at www.euskadi.net/turismo/alojamiento/m51indice.jsp?idioma=ingles It's also recommended in Alisatair Sawday's "Special Places to Stay/Spain". We sent 7 American friends to the Casa Iketxe last June, and they had a great time. Patxi will take you on a hike himself (or show you how) from the house to the Sanctuary of Guadalupe up on Mount Jaizkibel, and he has tons of brochures on touring and can recommend fantastic dining spots in all price ranges. Basque really, really know their food!. We've tried other farmhouses outside of Hondarribia, including the "Maidanea" (immaculate), also in the Sawday book, and the 17th c Arotz Enea, which is run a bit more like a hotel (but with smaller rooms). We prefer the "Iketxe" because of the warmth of the hospitality (and price!) and as we leave each yr. we reserve our rm for the next. email: [email protected] (I think) phone/fax: 943 644 391 Julie, Thank you for your very kind words. I'm just fortunate to have found this great (but addictive!) site with so many highly experiened, knowledgable European explorers. I copied and filed away, as usual, your latest terrific trip report. I find I always receive far more than I give from others here.