Costa Brava - Help me decide?
 

My friend and I will be in Barcelona in June for 5 days, and at the end of our trip we <i>have<i> to be in Salou for 5 days. That gives us some time in the city and some time at the beach (even if not the most charming, but hey, I already live in a charming town at the beach in California ;) ). We then have 6 days in between that I'm thinking of splitting into two locations unless someone can convince me otherwise. We may or may not have a car, we're open on that. I don't usually do a lot of museums/tours, I'm more of a eat, drink and meander the streets kind of traveler. My friend travels a lot for work so she's feeling the same way and wants nice and relaxing. She has never been to Spain, and I have never been to this area so I'm looking to add some variety to our experiences and I'm hoping someone can give input. After reading tons of posts on here and Googling for pictures, our choices are narrowed down to Cadaques (probably at the beach or with awesome views), Begur (maybe in town instead of the beach? or Aigua Blava?) or at a winery somewhere south of Barcelona, or near Salou. If winery, any suggestions of ones with nearby hotels or even a nearby home rental? Maybe an interesting winery town to experience?

To me, the most interesting town in that area is Vic. It is very hard to find information online about it however. Second most interesting town is Castello d'Empuries, but it is very small and sleepy. Cadaques is interesting in a quirky way, but it is an isolated enclave with a kind of precious/tourist feel, and difficult for day trips and exploring elsewhere. I would recommend a car so you can also go touring the area, no matter which town you pick.

http://www.roughguides.com/destinati...catalunya/vic/

http://www.blulyn.com/2015/07/25/cat...-vic-pyrenees/

http://www.victurisme.cat/index.php?idm=3

Thank you for those suggestions. Just from a quick search online, Vic does look like an interesting city. What did you like most about it? Castello d'Empuries...it does look a little sleepy, maybe too sleepy for us.

Hi,

You will definitely need a car if you stay in Begur or Aiguablava and other villages nearby. There is no public transportation, as I researched this thoroughly when i went to CB a couple summers ago.We had a car rental, which we picked up from Girona.

When we went there, there were no 5 stars hotels at Aiguablava Beach, the hotels we stayed at are both 4 stars as per Spanish ratings. (Not the American standards that we are accustomed to.)

Hotel Aiguablava, authentic Spanish culture experience and really nice villa. Friendly staff. Amazing views from Corner Suite. Definitely reserve a Corner Suite with terrace with both the hillside and coastal views while looking toward your right side facing the ocean. Decor is casual beachy spartan.

The other hotel I've stayed at was the Parador on the bluff. Again amazing dramatic hillside setting. HUGE room. with HUGE jacuzzi. Ocean views. The decor is somewhat circa 80s. LOL. But more American style king size comfy bed and vibe in the room

Or opt to stay at Callela or Llafranc, both are tiny pretty pretty white villages, right next to each other. Think of conjoined twin villages connected by scenic walkway carved onto the cliffs. Costa Brava is beautiful. Enjoy.

I'd base in Girona and get a car so you can make day trips (to Vic, Cadaques, Begur, wineries in Alt Emporda, and more). As Sandralist says Cadaques is pretty isolated - better on a day trip in my opinion, unless you really want to hunker down and read or something.

hi again,

To answer your question about Vic, it has an extraordinarily beautiful piazza, and the town itself has great architectural variety. It is a also a showcase of Catalonian culture -- one really feels without a doubt one is in a particular culture -- so that was quite interestng to me. It is a small city, not as a big a Girona, and I enjoyed it for that (easier to drive in and out). I was not staying in Vic, but I enjoyed it so much, I went twice, just to see more. Like most towns in the area, to go as a visitor during the day means you miss the life of the nighttime, which typically is the most enjoyable hours of being in any town in Spain. Vic is an agricultural center/market town, so fresh food is exceptional, although I don't think it has the kind of high end super-creative restaurants that abound in Girona and Barcelona.

My favorite beach town of the Costa Brava was Calella da Palafrugell, but I found the interior of Catalonia generally more interesting than the beach towns, and think I would certainly find it more interesting if I was committed to going to the beach already during the trip.

Ffipzz, thank you for those details, that really helps a lot!

rialtogrl, For a little personal background...on my last trip to Spain I started in San Sebastian (a little more low key to unwind from a long flight), then on to Seville (vibrant, which I LOVED), then we relaxed a little more at a beach side resort in Alicante, before going on to Valencia, another lively city experience. So...would you still base yourself in a city like Girona, if you're already coming from a city like Barcelona? Or are they that drastically different experiences? If so, how?

sandralist, I do understand what you mean to be there at night, such a magical time. I'm a night owl when I travel, maybe that's why Spain is in my top 3 favorite places :)

Oh shoot, I meant to also throw in the possibility of going over the Mallorca...over one of these other locations? We thought about Ibiza, but one of my travel buddies went there a couple of years ago and said it wasn't worth it. Since he and I have similar travel interests, I will take his word for it, lol.

Girona is a lot different than Barcelona. It has much more of a medieval feel in the old town, and it is of course much smaller. There are lots of tree shaded cafes, it is quite green and lush there, and it is a well-off town so there are many nice shops and restaurants. There is no parking or driving in the historical center, but it is otherwise pretty easy to get in and out.

They always have something going on and June is a great time to visit. You can get more info here: http://www2.girona.cat/

Thank you rialtogrl, I will check out that link...

I like rialtogrl's suggestion, and like her, I found Girona quite different from Barcelona.

If you have a car, and really want a place to just relax and unwind, Tossa de Mar might be worth considering -- but you can also see it from Girona.

My friend really wants a place to relax, and not do a lot of day-tripping, especially since we'll have been pretty busy in Barcelona. I guess we're looking for somewhere to just hang out, somewhere with amazing views, something with a slower pace for a few days at least. That's why I asked about Cadaques, Begur, a winery, or even Mallorca.

So even if we spent a few days in Girona....then which of the other ones would you suggest for another few days...Girona and Cadaques? Girona and Begur? (or maybe that's too much like Girona?) Girona and Mallorca? Girona and a winery?

I enjoyed Cadaques and thought it sufficiently different from Girona to justify a brief stay there. If my impressions were correct -- and I could be wrong, then the pace there is likely be VERY slow.

If you will already be at the beach in Salou, you can kick back very easily in Girona. Or combine it with Cadaques, or with one of the hotels FFipz recommends with amazing views. Begur, doesn't really have any views within the town and it is nothing like Girona, but its a nice town. I personally would get a little stir crazy in Begur for 6 nights (or Cadaques) but that is me. Really you can't go wrong especially if you aren't moving around too much - it will be relaxing in all of these places.

If you want to combine Girona with a beach stay, rather than go all the way to Cadeques, consider Calella da Palagfrugel, and go there directly from Barcelona. Although Girona is indeed very different in feel from Barcelona, it is still a well-known tourist magnet for some parts of town, so you might want a break from that, and have some beach time between the two cities.

sorry for my typo: Calella da Palafrugell

Calella da Palafrugell is also on my list of places to visit but Cadaques also looks beautiful.

Cadaques has many beautiful aspects and I enjoyed my visit, but the long drive in and out makes it a problematic place if you want to go exploring in the area. Also, Cadaques has quite an interesting internationalized feel to it, some of it touristy, some of it kind of global alternative-youth culture, so as an experience of Spain or Catalonia, it kind of goes its own way. I found it charming in its own way, but I'm not sure everybody does.

Cadaques is a very beautiful town and the scenery at nearby Cap de Creus is breathtaking. You will love it. The bay of Cadaques is very picturesque but has pebble beaches. There is a sandy beach in Port Lligat (where you find Salvador Dali's most eccentric home).

We stayed at Hotel Rocamar in Cadaques and recommend it.

Castillo Peralada is a winery in the hinterland of Cadaques that makes a good cava.

Cadaques requires a rental car, but it is certainly worth it.

For a more conventional stay on a sandy beach, take Tossa del Mar into consideration.

Thank you all for your replies and recommendations.

I like the suggestion to go to a beach town for a few days before Girona, for the reasons mentioned...a nice break between cities. And I can totally understand the concern with the long drive into Cadaques, it concerns me as well. Maybe that's why I'm so undecided if its worth it. So I appreciate the other suggestion for Calella da Palafrugell, Port Lligat, and even Tossa de Mar. I will look into those as well.

The thing about Salou is that we will be there for my friend's sons soccer camp, which means going to kids games, so I'm not sure how much actual beach time we'll get. Plus, its a beach beach, and I was hoping for a different kind of beach, something with more natural surrounds and amazing views, yet still in a quaint walkable town with lots of Spanish character.

I'm not sure you'll love Cadaques (who on earth knows? I liked it well enough, but didn't love it at all), however, it does have more various aspects, including its beach views, than Calella da Palafrugell, which has a quite small beach front (part of its charm) and some attractions tucked in the hills.

The semi-mountainous drive into and out of Cadaques is not difficult, but with all its hairpin turns it gets a bit tedious -- especially if you get stuck behind a coach or truck. Works best I think for people without an ambitious sightseeing agenda for the vicinity.

Never been to the other beach towns being mentioned.

Port Lligat is next to Cadaques. There is not much there - Dali's house, a hotel, a beach side snack cafe. If you want to go to Cadaques, stay in Cadaques.

Is her kid going to be with you? I have stayed in an excellent apartment in Girona, in the area of Sant Daniel which is outside the historical center and has parking. But there are only two beds (I think.)

" I can totally understand the concern with the long drive into Cadaques, it concerns me as well."

I didn't find the road that difficult, but it was trying -- a seemingly unending series of switchbacks with very, very few places to pull over. All too often, the string of cars behind me grew longer and longer, and although I would have been happy to pull over, there simply was no place to do so. And that was in May -- before high season.

Haha kja.. last time I was on that road there was a campervan in from of us that would STOP in the middle of the road. I was like, dude, you can't stop here. It took a really long time to get back that day, what with all the stopping in the middle of the road by the campervan. I could feel the blood pressure of a thousand locals behind me. And we were late to the winery. (Horrors.)

OMG, rialtogrl, how bizarre! I didn't stop in the road, and I went as fast as I thought was safe, given that my rental car did NOT handle well -- and that, unfortunately, was not fast enough for the locals.

No, her kid would not be with us. We will only have him with us for a few days in Barcelona (he's 13, nice kid), and then at the end in Salou, although he will be in a hotel with his teammates there. She didn't want him to go to a foreign country without her...and well, it was a great excuse for us to go on vacation together! We have been friends for 30 years; she was the maid of honor in my wedding 26 years ago. She is single and beautiful, so a little flirtatious fun is certainly in order on this trip ;;) Oh, and we love good food and wine! I mean, who doesn't, right?

I guess the concern I have with Cadaques is more about the time getting there, as opposed to the drive itself. Of course if the drive is beautiful, then its not time wasted. I've looked at a few of the other places and Llafranc, Calella da Palafrugell and Tossa de Mar all look beautiful. So in adding Cadaques, Aigua Blava...I guess I'll need to choose between one of those towns and call it a day, lol. I may send her pics of each and make HER pick :-?

When staying in Girona, is there an "ideal" location? Our preferred budget is under $200 a night, less is better if the location and charm are there.

If you decide on Tossa del Mar, you might consider the Hotel Cap d’Or. Also a meal at la Cuina de Can Simon. :-)

loves2sing (so do I!):

I'm one of those who rarely do TR's. Instead, my credo follows "a pic is worth a thousand words" and I share those that are relevant. It's a good way to get a "feel" for a place, IME.

I strongly recommend the triad of Barcelona, Girona and Cadaques for your trip. A little of most everything.

(see pics on thread below).

tower - what thread for pics?

sorry..for the past few days I'm having trouble submitting pics so I thought I would try another of your threads...the "Salou" thread. If it didn't catch there, I'll have to work around it. I asked for help from the editors but to no avail...other than that they're working on it.

loves2sing! It worked on your Salou "location" thread, but I'll try the same method here//here goeshttps://picasaweb.google.com/stuarttower/BarcelonaGironaCadaques#

Thank you, taking a look now :)

That's the answer..I just have to run the photo address right into the body of the thread rather than standing alone. Go figure..another of Fodors machinations that end up unexplainable. Shhhhesh! My pics are purely amateur but I hope it gives you a feel for the three towns.

Highly recommend The Playa del Sol hotel (see postcard and pix)..excellent bayside location//balcony overlooking the beautful bay..easy drive to Dali's whacko house in Pt. Ligat (ten minutes at most). You need to ask your lodgings to immediately call for reservations to the house...they only sllow 8 people in at a time....best to mention when you make reservations for the hotel and they'll set up a visit time for you. Sure keeps the crowds down..we were practically there alone (but it was off season...we never travelled during the local high seasons anywhere, except Norway...even August was nippy there!)

If I recall, Anita's is a jolly eatery..in Cadaques.Family style and a very friendly host. I have a detailed four page suggested itinerary I drew up for cousin for his honeymoon in Barcelona...no way to get it to you unless I have an email drop. Let me know at rozstu1 at aol dot com
and I will and immedately whch I've done for several Fodorites over the years. It was written in 2012 so it's
quite current...many resto references,sites, etc,
stu

Thanks, I would love to read it. marilynvalencia at gmail dot com.

-When staying in Girona, is there an "ideal" location? Our preferred budget is under $200 a night, less is better if the location and charm are there.-

Here is the apartment I mentioned above.
https://www.homeaway.com/vacation-rental/p365113vb
As I mentioned it is in the Sant Daniel area which is just 5 minutes or so walking to the historical center. I LOVED staying there. There is a bedroom and another bed in the living room, so it is good for two friends traveling together. The place is huge! There is a great roof deck on top of the building. The owner lives in the building and she allows short stays. The only thing is, she gets booked up fast. So if you are interested check the dates you can be there and if available, get them booked.

I can also recommend Casa Cundaro - apartments in a historic Medieval Jewish home. You need to park in a lot that is up a hill and around a corner, but its not too terrible unless you have a ton of luggage. The only thing about this place is, the cathedral is very close and the bells of that cathedral are LOUD and they ring ALL NIGHT LONG. So if you are light sleepers, the bells could get to you. The apartments are run by the lovely people at Hotel Historic which I also recommend and which is even closer to the parking area.

Casa Cundaro: http://www.casacundaro.com
Hotel Historic: http://www.hotelhistoric.com

If you are into food and wine, you will love Girona.

LOVED Tossa De Mar.. we were booked for 4 nights .. but stayed five..
We stayed at the Capri Hotel.. we booked early and go the third floor baloncy rooms.. the views are amazing.. heaven.


We went to Mallorca two summers ago.. loved it so much we are going back this june.. flights from Barcelona are about 30 minutes and we got them for 50 euros.. In Mallorca we spent our time in Cala D'Or.. so beautiful.. We stayed at the Interhotel Esmeralda.. and will again..

rialtogrl - thank you for those recommendations in Girona, they both sound nice. I actually loved hearing the church bells in Seville! Do we need a car in Girona? I'm thinking we might take the train from Barcelona to Girona, rent a car and drive to one of the beach towns mentioned, then drive back to Girona and return the car if we don't need it. Are there car rental places near the train station? If so, and upon return, is the train station near the historic area or would we need to get a cab or something to get into town?

justineparis - thank you for the info on Mallorca, I'm still considering that too since we can easily (and cheaply) fly from Barcelona. Would you say you loved it <i>more</i> or preferred it over the other beach towns along Costa Brava? Or at least just more unique, more beautiful? I do love an island :) I really want to give my friend an opportunity to see and experience different things on this trip. She tends to be "go to a resort, eat there, stay there" kind of traveler, but that was because that's how her ex liked to travel. I feel like she's missed some adventure in her life, probably why he's her ex ;). She really liked the idea of going to Ibiza until my other travel buddy said "ehh" on that, but he had no experience with Mallorca.

" Are there car rental places near the train station?"
Yes, several, including Europcar.
"is the train station near the historic area or would we need to get a cab or something to get into town?"
It is a 10 minute walk to the center. The historic center is car-free and parking is very expensive in Girona. Renting a car for the day is a very good idea.

You don't need a car in Girona unless you want to make day trips... if you do get one, parking is available (and free) close to the accommodations I linked to above. Without a car you can take a cab close to wherever you are staying and it should not be terribly expensive.

Thank you both Pvoyageuse and rialtogrl, for that great information!