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taconictraveler Feb 25th, 2011 04:23 PM

Convenient Paris suburbs?
 
Does anyone know of convenient pleasant Paris suburbs where we could get a nice hotel for a few days in late September?

I realize, watching France Mystique Tours wonderful bike ride photos, that I really might like to stay out of the center of Paris, and experience of bit of what it would be like to live as I might if I actually lived in Paris?

Is this silly, or might it be interesting? We did it by chance outside of Bologna in Italy last year, and found it most interesting. We could take a bus right outside the hotel door and be down in the old center in about 20 to 30 minutes.

Any ideas?

adrienne Feb 25th, 2011 04:36 PM

I think you would miss the excitement of Paris if you stayed outside the city. And I'm not sure you could be in the center in 20 to 30 minutes. You would also be competing with all the commuter traffic and lots of people on the metro and buses.

Imagine a NYC vacation while staying outside the city and commuting in. I like walking out of my hotel, especially in the evening, and seeing the sights all lit up. You would also have that commute back to the burbs at the end of the day.

You could choose an arrondisement that is away from the city center and not as full of tourists such as the 14th or 18th or similar and have more of a feel for a less touristy part of Paris yet have easy access to the sights.

I once stayed in La Defense and it took an hour to get to Notre Dame. I think Paris is larger than Bologna so you would be staying farther from the sights.

taconictraveler Feb 25th, 2011 04:41 PM

I was thinking of La Defense, because as many times as I have been to Paris (about 5 I guess) I have never been out there.

However, I didn't think it would take that long to get to the center.

I'm trying to make this part of the trip more palatable for my DH who really likes the country better than the city, but maybe that's too much to ask for the Paris part.

Do you think the 14th and the 18th would be good arrondissements in which to look?

mamcalice Feb 25th, 2011 05:09 PM

I really think, if you want to stay in the countryside or a suburban area, you should travel to such an area. There are many wonderful villages in France. But if you are going to Paris, stay in Paris. Stay in the 4th, 5th, 6th or 7th arrondisements. The 14th is in the city - I'm not sure about the 18th but both are city, not suburbs or countryside.

adrienne Feb 25th, 2011 05:55 PM

From my experience of staying in La Defense is that it's a place where people work rather than live. Perhaps it's the area I was in but it was dead at night and on weekends. If your husband likes the country he will not like La Defense as it's full of large buildings and lots of traffic.

The 16th is a upscale area where people live. Perhaps that would suit you more. Or choose someplace on the edge of a large park - there are several in Paris.

I too read the thread you referenced and it was interesting. If you want a feel for a town where typical French people live then you should choose a town and stay there for a week without commuting into Paris. You won't get the flavor of a place if you leave it every day to go someplace else.

I'm sure you'll get a lot of other opinions on this topic.

Take a look at these two diverse threads:
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...ssement.cfm?30
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...-go-bad.cfm?22

adrienne Feb 25th, 2011 06:14 PM

Why don't you stay in a hotel with a garden. I loved this place. You could have breakfast sitting in the garden or have a picnic supper there if it's warm enough. It's also not far from the Luxembourg Gardens and the botanical gardens (Jardin des Plantes).

http://www.hotel-grandes-ecoles.com/

There must be others. I think you can find something that suits both yourself and your husband.

gillybrit Feb 25th, 2011 06:50 PM

A few years ago my parents lived in St Germaine en Laye. I visited several times and thought it had a small town feel but was within easy reach of Paris via the RER. I believe it was about 10 miles from center city. I personally don't agree that you can't experience Paris without staying right in the city, and if your husband doesn't enjoy staying in the city this might be a compromise

zoecat Feb 26th, 2011 06:43 AM

I agree with gillybrit's suggestion of St Germaine en Laye. It is a lovely small town with a nice outdoor market and very close and direct to Paris. There is also a chateau and beautiful, large gardens.

Staying in La Defense would achieve the opposite of what you want.

dandygirl Feb 26th, 2011 06:52 AM

Depending on how far from Paris you wish to stay, I highly
recommend Chantilly. It is magnificent countryside, golf
courses, chateaux, a gem!! Check it out-it's worth a look!!

taconictraveler Feb 26th, 2011 07:20 AM

I love all these suggestions. I'd never seen Hotel des Grands Ecoles, and it looks so lovely and tranquil!
Also will research St. Germaine en Laye, and I'd love to be in Chantilly!
I will research all of this when I come back from the HD simulcast of the Opera this afternoon.
Many thanks, and any other ideas will be gratefully received.
Fodorites amaze me, again and again.

adrienne Feb 26th, 2011 07:48 AM

If you do stay in Chantilly, take a trip to Senlis. It's a delightful small town accessible by bus from Chantilly. There's a lot to do in that area including Compiegne - an interesting outing.

http://travel.nytimes.com/2008/11/02...from.html?8dpc

Cathinjoetown Feb 26th, 2011 09:19 AM

Several years ago I stayed for two weeks in the 14th arr. with friends who had rented an apartment for a month. Very near the lovely Parc Monsouris, bus stop literally outside the door and about two blocks to Porte d'Orleans Metro, rarely crowded as it was at the end of the line. I loved the area, which was just inside the Peripherique. There were small hotels almost on every street but I didn't note names.

Senlis and Chantilly are very good suggestions if you want to be further out, I particularly remember Senlis' very old centre.

Suzanne2 Feb 26th, 2011 09:25 AM

This will be our 12th visit to Paris. We have rented an apartment in Saint-Mande. We are bringing our kids and need more space. The Parc Vincennes is lovely. We are on Metro Line 1. I am somewhat concerned about the crowds on that line, however, we don't really need to travel during rush hour and we are bringing a little one so won't need to be out late either. I'm looking forward to a different Paris experience this trip.

Suzanne2 Feb 26th, 2011 09:28 AM

I've styed at the Grand Hotel Ecoles. It is very charming. The outdoor patio/garden is lovely. Be aware that there are no TV'S or refrigerators in the rooms. That did not bother me but the husbands were not too thrilled about not having television.

Christina Feb 26th, 2011 12:13 PM

La Defense is a business area, it was completely built for that and would be less like the country than Paris itself. You have to really get far outside to be in any area that would be countrylike and then it wouldn't be convenient. Paris is a very very large city and thus the surroundings for miles around are sububurbs. You can't even get across Paris in 20-30 minutes that well.

There are parts of Paris that are farther out that are more purely residential, sure. There don't tend to be a lot of hotels in these areas, though. St Germain en Laye is a nice suburb but I wouldn't call it remotely like the country. If you stay in any outer arrondisement, it won't be like the center of Paris. The upper 17th would be one example and that is a nice area. Look in the Batignolles area, that's one idea. Up in the 18th is another, presuming you are near Lamarck metro or something like that. Most of the outer arrondisements aren't full of tourists, anyway, in fact, I don't think any of them are, so you could stay in the 17th, 12th, or bottoms of the 13th-15th, or the 16th such as in Passy, as well as the 18th. The 19th-20th really are not full of tourists but there aren't a lot of hotels there but there are some. There are some more "country-like" areas out in them, such as the area where they filmed part of Jules et Jim, Belleville. Some area near a huge park might be nice, whether that is Montsouris or Batignolles, etc.

I don't think this will be as fascinating as it might seem for tourists who have never been to Paris before and are not fluent in French. What's the point of visiting Paris if you don't experience it for what it has.

taconictraveler Feb 27th, 2011 08:59 AM

Well, I have been to Paris a few times, and I used to be fluent in French (40 years ago) and it does seem to come back after several days there, so that's one reason I'm investigating alternatives to the "usual" arrondissements.
My problem will be to DECIDE! since all options look good to me

My son commuted from London to Paris (weekly) for several months on a job assignment, and then had to go out to La Defense. When he was talking about that recently, it reminded me that I had never been out there, and I was curious.

I think I will now concentrate on outer arrondissements, and those couple of suburbs mentioned above.

Thanks, Suzanne2, I don't think DH will be happy sans CNN!

Adrienne: thanks for the NYT article on Compiegne. Most interesting.

FrenchMystiqueTours Feb 27th, 2011 12:51 PM

hi taconic - I left you a note on my 12th arrondissement thread so check over there. If Compiegne interests you I've written a trip report about biking there through the countryside that you'll find if you search my trip reports. Good luck with wherever you choose.

taconictraveler Mar 1st, 2011 07:57 PM

FMT: I've now been through several of your photo essays and they are just so much fun, and so descriptive (well, duh, they ARE photos, after all!) and I'm joining the fan club for sure. You make me want to stay in all these places, and just wander around and pretend I live there and practice my francais affreux!
Many thanks for the help, but I remain indecisive now, because I want to go to so many areas, and have a week in the Dordogne in between.
DH just wants to ride a TGV and maybe go to Toulouse because some of his ancestors come from there. So the beat goes on, and so does the research
this site is awesome but so is Any Port in a Storm!

Michael Mar 1st, 2011 10:24 PM

Sceaux, one of the RER B end stations might be the ticket. Or Fontenay-aux-Roses on the same line.

FrenchMystiqueTours Mar 2nd, 2011 01:05 PM

taconic - I can think of worse dilemmas than trying to figure out where to spend your time in France. I'm sure you will figure it all out but whatever you do don't try to see it all and take the time to enjoy the things you do get to see at a leisurely pace. Quality time spent enjoying fewer sites is worth more than a large quantity of sites seen. Off to bed now as I have a long day of fun ahead of me tomorrow in Italy.


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