Confessions of a Travel Tyrant; Ten days of Tapas, Wine and Wandering in Spain
Nov 25th, 2005, 07:40 AM
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<b>Days 9 and 10
Cordoba to Madrid and home...</b>
We get up early and drive to the train station in a thick fog. The Avis office does not open until 9 AM, but fortunately, our AVE train back to Madrid doesn't not leave until 9:40. At 9:10 the desk agent saunters up, chatting with the woman who runs the candy concession next to the rental desk. We're obviously on Spanish time.
We have no problems returning the car, and go into the train station cafe for a pastry, <i>tortilla</i> on baguette, and cafe con leche. They allow us down to the platforms around 9:30 and we stand, waiting for the train to arrive from Sevilla. The trip back to Madrid was fast, and again, the movie was an odd choice, "Casa de los Babies", an American independent film about six women who go to a fictional Central American country to adopt babies.
Upon arrival at Atocha, we walk the 3 blocks up the Paseo del Prado to the Westin Palace hotel.
The Palace ( 5 stars, http://www.westinpalacemadrid.com/eng/) is a "grand dame" hotel, built in 1912 by King Alfonso XIII. It sits directly across from the Prado Museum and the famous Ritz hotel. We arrive around noon and are allowed to check in right away. I'd asked for a room with a view and we certainly were not disappointed.
Our room, on the 4th floor looks out directly onto the roundabout on the Plaza Canovas. The room is enormous by European standards, with the Westin's signature "heavenly beds" and a fantastic bathroom. I didn't want to leave the room, but since this was our last day, we had to get going and set out to see the Royal Palace before it was to close at 2PM (on Sundays).
Cordoba to Madrid and home...</b>
We get up early and drive to the train station in a thick fog. The Avis office does not open until 9 AM, but fortunately, our AVE train back to Madrid doesn't not leave until 9:40. At 9:10 the desk agent saunters up, chatting with the woman who runs the candy concession next to the rental desk. We're obviously on Spanish time.
We have no problems returning the car, and go into the train station cafe for a pastry, <i>tortilla</i> on baguette, and cafe con leche. They allow us down to the platforms around 9:30 and we stand, waiting for the train to arrive from Sevilla. The trip back to Madrid was fast, and again, the movie was an odd choice, "Casa de los Babies", an American independent film about six women who go to a fictional Central American country to adopt babies.
Upon arrival at Atocha, we walk the 3 blocks up the Paseo del Prado to the Westin Palace hotel.
The Palace ( 5 stars, http://www.westinpalacemadrid.com/eng/) is a "grand dame" hotel, built in 1912 by King Alfonso XIII. It sits directly across from the Prado Museum and the famous Ritz hotel. We arrive around noon and are allowed to check in right away. I'd asked for a room with a view and we certainly were not disappointed.
Our room, on the 4th floor looks out directly onto the roundabout on the Plaza Canovas. The room is enormous by European standards, with the Westin's signature "heavenly beds" and a fantastic bathroom. I didn't want to leave the room, but since this was our last day, we had to get going and set out to see the Royal Palace before it was to close at 2PM (on Sundays).
Nov 25th, 2005, 12:06 PM
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We walk up to the Banco de Espana stop, take the metro to the Opera and go 3 blocks over to the palace. The line to get in is huge, and admission is steep (8 euro as it seems everything is in Spain), but we wait, pay and go in. We check out the Royal Pharmacy first and it's interesting with 3 or 4 rooms filled with glass jars and drawers, labeled with various herbs and potions. We skip the armory.
Next, we go over to the formal rooms which include the grand staircase entrance (more Baroque than any church), the throne room, a dining room with seats for 100, and dozens more formal rooms. Honestly, it wasn't the most interesting palace I've seen, but it certainly was big and ostentatious, befitting a king. The view from the central courtyard off the "back" side of the palace is fantastic, overlooking a large part of suburban Madrid.
After the royal palace, we walk across Madrid back toward the hotel, stopping at an internet place and a restaurant for a mid-afternoon snack of (yet more) fried calamari and Mom's first real Spanish paella (mediocre). We pass the hotel and keep walking, toward botanical gardens and the grand Retiro park behind the Prado museum. For reasons I can't remember, we pass up the Botanical gardens and go through the Retiro to check out the lake. It's a warm sunny day, and the Madrilenos and tourists are out in force, relaxing in the park, rowing paddleboats on the lake, and generally enjoying the nice weather. I tell my mother how, when I lived there in '91, I used to go to the Retiro and sit on the steps leading down to the lake. I would eavesdrop on tourist's conversations and pretend to be Spanish if they talked to me (ok, I was young, and found it amusing at the time).We go back to the hotel to rest in the "heavenly beds" before dinner.
Next, we go over to the formal rooms which include the grand staircase entrance (more Baroque than any church), the throne room, a dining room with seats for 100, and dozens more formal rooms. Honestly, it wasn't the most interesting palace I've seen, but it certainly was big and ostentatious, befitting a king. The view from the central courtyard off the "back" side of the palace is fantastic, overlooking a large part of suburban Madrid.
After the royal palace, we walk across Madrid back toward the hotel, stopping at an internet place and a restaurant for a mid-afternoon snack of (yet more) fried calamari and Mom's first real Spanish paella (mediocre). We pass the hotel and keep walking, toward botanical gardens and the grand Retiro park behind the Prado museum. For reasons I can't remember, we pass up the Botanical gardens and go through the Retiro to check out the lake. It's a warm sunny day, and the Madrilenos and tourists are out in force, relaxing in the park, rowing paddleboats on the lake, and generally enjoying the nice weather. I tell my mother how, when I lived there in '91, I used to go to the Retiro and sit on the steps leading down to the lake. I would eavesdrop on tourist's conversations and pretend to be Spanish if they talked to me (ok, I was young, and found it amusing at the time).We go back to the hotel to rest in the "heavenly beds" before dinner.
Nov 27th, 2005, 05:14 AM
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After a rest, we head out for our final meal with my printed recommendations in hand. Unfortunately, we somehow make a wrong turn leaving the hotel and wind up walking about 10 blocks out of our way.
We find ourselves on Calle Atocha, which (at least where we are at that point) is a bit seedy with quite a few "Live Sex" emporiums. We manage to figure out where we are on a map, make a big circle back to the hotel, end up at two tapas bars a couple of blocks from the hotel.
Taberna Doleres (Plaza de Jesus, 4) is over 100 years old according to the plaque embedded in the doorway. There are yummy tapas here; <i>Jamon jabugo de pato</i> (duck ham), salmon and soft cheese <i>tosta, anchoa tosta</i>, two glasses vino Valdepenas, 8.4 euro. The place is packed, a little warm and smokey (typical) and has jolly atmosphere.
When I order the anchovies, the bartender corrects me; they are not <i>boquerones</i> (which imply a specific preparation), they are anchovies. Whatever, they taste great, and later he hams it up in a photo for me.
Next, we head across the street to Cervezas La Fabrica, (Calle Jesus, 2). I'm pulled inside by the sight of a large, steaming, purple <i>pulpo</i> (octopus) sitting on the counter. We don't order any, but we do get two glasses of Crianza '97, a smoked tuna <i>tosta</i>, and <i>one</i> toothpick containing an olive and two anchovies (odd to only get one, but my fault, when I'd ordered, I thought we'd get an order of many, not just a single toothpick!) all for 9.1 euro. Off to bed since we have to get up early to go to the airport.
We find ourselves on Calle Atocha, which (at least where we are at that point) is a bit seedy with quite a few "Live Sex" emporiums. We manage to figure out where we are on a map, make a big circle back to the hotel, end up at two tapas bars a couple of blocks from the hotel.
Taberna Doleres (Plaza de Jesus, 4) is over 100 years old according to the plaque embedded in the doorway. There are yummy tapas here; <i>Jamon jabugo de pato</i> (duck ham), salmon and soft cheese <i>tosta, anchoa tosta</i>, two glasses vino Valdepenas, 8.4 euro. The place is packed, a little warm and smokey (typical) and has jolly atmosphere.
When I order the anchovies, the bartender corrects me; they are not <i>boquerones</i> (which imply a specific preparation), they are anchovies. Whatever, they taste great, and later he hams it up in a photo for me.
Next, we head across the street to Cervezas La Fabrica, (Calle Jesus, 2). I'm pulled inside by the sight of a large, steaming, purple <i>pulpo</i> (octopus) sitting on the counter. We don't order any, but we do get two glasses of Crianza '97, a smoked tuna <i>tosta</i>, and <i>one</i> toothpick containing an olive and two anchovies (odd to only get one, but my fault, when I'd ordered, I thought we'd get an order of many, not just a single toothpick!) all for 9.1 euro. Off to bed since we have to get up early to go to the airport.
Nov 28th, 2005, 09:22 AM
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We leave once again in the dark and walk the 3 blocks up the Paseo del Prado to the Banco de Espana Metro stop. Our flight to London leaves around 11 AM, so we leave the hotel around 8 hoping we'll have enough time to get to the airport via Metro. From Banco de Espana we go two stops and transfer at Principe de Vergara and transfer again at Colombia from where it's 4 more stops to the Barajas airport. It sounds complicated, but it was fairly easy, and very inexpensive compared to a taxi.
Our flight to London was on British Air, but a code share with Iberia. They don't have the same carry-on restrictions as BA, so we were able to take our luggage aboard with us. A couple comments about Iberia; drink service is not complimentary of any kind, not even soda or water. The second thing I thought as we screeched to a landing at Heathrow is, "Spanish pilots fly like they drive".
Our layover at Heathrow was uneventful and we spent most of our time in the United Red Carpet room. The flight home was fine, and passed quickly with reading and watching movies.
Our flight to London was on British Air, but a code share with Iberia. They don't have the same carry-on restrictions as BA, so we were able to take our luggage aboard with us. A couple comments about Iberia; drink service is not complimentary of any kind, not even soda or water. The second thing I thought as we screeched to a landing at Heathrow is, "Spanish pilots fly like they drive".
Our layover at Heathrow was uneventful and we spent most of our time in the United Red Carpet room. The flight home was fine, and passed quickly with reading and watching movies.
Nov 29th, 2005, 08:22 AM
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I thought those of you planning your own trip might appreciate a breakdown of our expenses. And, since <i>I am</i> completely obsessive, I have a down-to-the penny account. 
The costs below are <b>Per Person</b> for the 10 days/9 nights we spent in Spain in October 2005.
<b>Transportation</b>- $725- This includes tax on FF tickets, R/T Airfare London-Madrid, Train tickets, 3 days car, gas, tolls, parking, taxis, Bus (Sevilla-Granada), and metro tickets.
<b>Hotels</b>-$545-Nine nights in hotels, one to 5 stars.
<b>Food</b>-$310- all meals, snacks, drinks, ice cream, etc. We did not have a lot of sit down, fancy meals, opting instead for tapas and wine a majority of the time.
<b>Misc.</b>-$135-Includes sightseeing, souvineers, internet, etc.
Thanks to all of you who have said they've enjoyed my report.
I'm working on the pictures, I promise!
The costs below are <b>Per Person</b> for the 10 days/9 nights we spent in Spain in October 2005.
<b>Transportation</b>- $725- This includes tax on FF tickets, R/T Airfare London-Madrid, Train tickets, 3 days car, gas, tolls, parking, taxis, Bus (Sevilla-Granada), and metro tickets.
<b>Hotels</b>-$545-Nine nights in hotels, one to 5 stars.
<b>Food</b>-$310- all meals, snacks, drinks, ice cream, etc. We did not have a lot of sit down, fancy meals, opting instead for tapas and wine a majority of the time.
<b>Misc.</b>-$135-Includes sightseeing, souvineers, internet, etc.
Thanks to all of you who have said they've enjoyed my report.
I'm working on the pictures, I promise!
Dec 4th, 2005, 01:13 PM
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Ok, ok, twist my arm.
Actually I <i>have</i> been working on it, but the photos are all going up on my own website, not a third party. Plus, because I'm so OCD, I have to edit, crop and correct each photo before it's "good enough" for me to post.
I was going to wait until I had all the pages done before posting, but since you asked, the first couple of days are online if you want to see them.
http://www.wired2theworld.com
Let me know what you think!
Kristina
Actually I <i>have</i> been working on it, but the photos are all going up on my own website, not a third party. Plus, because I'm so OCD, I have to edit, crop and correct each photo before it's "good enough" for me to post.
I was going to wait until I had all the pages done before posting, but since you asked, the first couple of days are online if you want to see them.
http://www.wired2theworld.com
Let me know what you think!
Kristina
Dec 8th, 2005, 05:41 AM
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Kristina,
Thanks so much for getting the pics up. I just loved looking at the ones in Seville as I too was there recently. Didn't you just love it there? My mom is from there so I have lots of family still there, so I have grown up going there, but this was the first trip in 12 years. I am already planning on going back next fall.
Angela
Thanks so much for getting the pics up. I just loved looking at the ones in Seville as I too was there recently. Didn't you just love it there? My mom is from there so I have lots of family still there, so I have grown up going there, but this was the first trip in 12 years. I am already planning on going back next fall.
Angela
Dec 10th, 2005, 02:24 PM
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Angi- Thanks! I'm glad at least someone is enjoying this! Yes, I loved Sevilla and would really like to spend more time there someday, perhaps a week in an apartment inside the barrio.
Day 6 (Ronda) is now online if you're interested.
Coming up; Grazelema, Cadiz, Arcos de la Frontera and Puerta de Santa Maria.
Day 6 (Ronda) is now online if you're interested.
Coming up; Grazelema, Cadiz, Arcos de la Frontera and Puerta de Santa Maria.
Dec 12th, 2005, 06:44 AM
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Just discovered the pictures and they are terrific! Thanks for the brief "repeat" of a wonderful vacation over my morning coffee and I will certainly be looking forward to the next installments!
Dec 12th, 2005, 11:31 AM
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Kristina,
I just saw your pictures from your trip to Spain with your mom, they were beautiful. Thank you for sharing. Your postings are great and I enjoyed reading through them. Since you have travelled to so many destinations I was hoping for your opinion. I saw on your website that you have been to HI as well as all over Europe. We are trying to plan our honeymoon and we want romance, luxury and relaxtion with some trekking around. Here are some places we are thinking of Italy, Paris, Spain or HI...Anguilla is out do to hurricane season. We would be travelling in October which I hear is rainy season in Italy? Also, if you do not minding offering some suggestions we are traveling for 10-14 days. Thanks in advance.
Robyn
I just saw your pictures from your trip to Spain with your mom, they were beautiful. Thank you for sharing. Your postings are great and I enjoyed reading through them. Since you have travelled to so many destinations I was hoping for your opinion. I saw on your website that you have been to HI as well as all over Europe. We are trying to plan our honeymoon and we want romance, luxury and relaxtion with some trekking around. Here are some places we are thinking of Italy, Paris, Spain or HI...Anguilla is out do to hurricane season. We would be travelling in October which I hear is rainy season in Italy? Also, if you do not minding offering some suggestions we are traveling for 10-14 days. Thanks in advance.
Robyn
Dec 12th, 2005, 12:11 PM
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Chele-Thanks! Glad you are enjoying it.
Robyn-First, congratulations on your upcoming wedding.
Hawaii is a good choice for October I think, because we were there in August and it was ungodly hot. I assume October would be better. And there's no shortage of things to do or see.
That said, if you've not been to Europe before and you have 10-14 days, then I would probably choose that.
In fact, that's what we did on our honeymoon, 10 days in Italy. We flew into Venice (2 days), trained to Florence (3 days), picked up a car and drove south (one night in Orvieto) then drove down to Positano (3 nights-LOVED IT) and ending with 2 nights in Rome. It was a lot of moving around, but were were young and (still) like to travel that way.
And I don't think October would be too rainy. You might get a shower here or there, but you're more likely to get perfect, not-too-hot, fall weather. It also depends on if you go north or south.
Paris is also a good choice. As much as I love Spain, if you've never been to Europe, it probably would not be my first choice. If either of you speaks decent French, Italian, or Spanish then that might help you decide.
Whatever you do, I would pick one part of a country and stick with that. Say, Paris (maybe rent an apartment for a week) and then take a couple day trip to the Loire and stay in a castle. Or, in Italy, go to Florence and Rome (train between is only 2-3 hours) and maybe the Amalfi coast.
You have lots of options. Let me know if you have any more questions.
Robyn-First, congratulations on your upcoming wedding.
Hawaii is a good choice for October I think, because we were there in August and it was ungodly hot. I assume October would be better. And there's no shortage of things to do or see.
That said, if you've not been to Europe before and you have 10-14 days, then I would probably choose that.
In fact, that's what we did on our honeymoon, 10 days in Italy. We flew into Venice (2 days), trained to Florence (3 days), picked up a car and drove south (one night in Orvieto) then drove down to Positano (3 nights-LOVED IT) and ending with 2 nights in Rome. It was a lot of moving around, but were were young and (still) like to travel that way.
And I don't think October would be too rainy. You might get a shower here or there, but you're more likely to get perfect, not-too-hot, fall weather. It also depends on if you go north or south.
Paris is also a good choice. As much as I love Spain, if you've never been to Europe, it probably would not be my first choice. If either of you speaks decent French, Italian, or Spanish then that might help you decide.
Whatever you do, I would pick one part of a country and stick with that. Say, Paris (maybe rent an apartment for a week) and then take a couple day trip to the Loire and stay in a castle. Or, in Italy, go to Florence and Rome (train between is only 2-3 hours) and maybe the Amalfi coast.
You have lots of options. Let me know if you have any more questions.
