cologne vs hamburg
 

Germanophiles: We're looking for a city to stop and spend a couple of days in en route from Berlin to Amsterdam. We are considering Cologne and Hamburg, and are seeking ideas.
We tend to like large, fairly cosmopolitan places with lots of restaurants and nightlife options, but also with character and beautiful preserved historic buildings (ie, no Frankfurt).
Which of these two cities fits that bill best? Which has the most interesting sites? Any input would be appreciated.

We liked Hamburg quite a lot. There are any number of interesting old churches, an excellent zoo and botanic garden, and fine shopping--plus good restaurants and nightlife. The citizens are among the best-dressed I've seen anywhere.

I found Hamburg to be more cosmopolitan. It does not have a lot of old buildings, but still has several charming shopping streets. Definitely take a boat ride around the harbor area.

martytravels,

living in Hamburg formerly by birth and now by choice, I am a bit biased. But I certainly would suggest you spend at least two days here in the city.

Wheras Hamburg certainly was heavily destroyed during WW II, the restoration of the city center has been taken care of diligently and successfully. Plus, there is a lot of current architecture that is really noteworthy, if you care for that. There are also a couple of good museums, such as the Kunsthalle for paintings and modern art, the Hamburg Museum of the city's history and the brand new Bucerius Art forum right next to city hall in the ground floor and basement of a bank (this is a very commercial city generating its wealth from trade to a large extent, which becomes evident in cases like this).

In the evenings, Hamburg features a number of Musicals, a worldclass ballet at the Opera under the authority of American John Neumeier, good bars and Germany's highest density of star-rated reastaurants in any major city, along with others that are also outstanding or at least interesting. Almost any ethnic cuisine can be savoured here.

Hamburg is also one of the greenest cities of Europe, which also indicates that is pretty much an outdoor town. So you are likely to enjoy it more, should you come during spring time or summer. I have to admit that I hate winters here.

If you get a bit more specific about your preferences, I will gladly advise on hotels, what to see and where to eat!

Hamburg was leveled during WWII. It was reconstructed and is similar, IMO, to Frankfurt.

I would choose Köln or Düsseldorf.

It seems to me that after coming from the very cosmopolitan Berlin and heading to the very peppy Amsterdam, you might enjoy a change of pace; the well-preserved cities tend to be the smaller ones that weren't bombing targets. You'd do well to look into Celle (north of Hanover) or Hameln (south) where you'll find some great architecture, a few things to do, and several nice places to eat - you probably won't need more than a couple of meals there for a short stopover.

Thanks to everyone for the responses - they're very helpful.
HSV, sightseeing-wise, we'll want to see the city's major sites, naturally, but I'm also a huge fan of bohemian, offbeat, youth-affected areas. I love the big outdoor markets, and like to experience the multicultural nature of the cities I visit.
Hotel-wise, we're thinking moderate (90-150 euro per night) and central. I like staying in those bohemian, youth-affected neighborhoods I mentioned before, but anything that's in the center of the city and close to public transit is fine.
Restaurant-wise, I'm a big fan of Middle Eastern and Indian cuisine, along with Thai and Ethiopian. We'll probably spend 2-3 days in Hamburg and we'll have at least one "event" dinner, but most of our eating will be the eat-and-run variety (shwarama sandwiches, falafels, etc.)
Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Danke!

I'm quite familiar with both and would chose Hamburg. Cologne to me is one of the most uninpiring large cities in Europe but Hamburg, perhaps equally scarred in war, seems much more neat looking. Maybe because of its port setting or its St Pauli redlight district or because of its many lakes and parks, amongst the most of any city in Europe, and its many bridges, again often said to have the most in Europe, lends it a certain romantic feel that seems lacking in Koln. Though Koln does have europe's largest Gothic cathedral, certainly a sight to behold, and a rather nice riverfront the rest is blah. (Though it does now boast a leaning tower rivaling Pisa's in one church whose tower is precariously leaning and has become a tourist sight. As for nightlife Hamburg, since the Beatles days here has always had a vibrant one.

martytravels,

I am a bit short on time today. I promise I'll be back with a couple more suggestions.
Let me just say that I think you will absolutely find what you're looking for.
Which time of year will you be visiting?

Thank you HSV. We'll be visiting in late May (last week of May, actually).

I suggest you do both: wear cologne while IN Hamburg.

--Marv

PS: see how the solutions come so simply just by putting your mind to it?

I might be in the minority here, but I liked Cologne quite a bit. It was a fun city, and the Dom is one of the more amazing sights you'll see, especially at night. Plus it's close to a lot of other places worth sidetrips to.

martytravels,

in the first place, I am sorry that it took me a while to come back to this thread, but I was pretty busy at work.

Still, I would like to come up with some hints and help for spending a couple of enjoyable days in the city.

I will post this in various segments, as this server seems to have trouble coping with longer posts.

Accomodation:
For accomodation there is a pretty wide choice of hotels. As I live in the city, I haven't stayed at most places, but I will pass on what my impression of places is – in part based on experiences of acquaintances, too. I understand that you are not looking for the five star segment of the market, but would be willing to make do with a decent three star. Here are a few choices you may want to take a look at:

Hotel Vorbach: This is a family owned 2.5 to 3-star hotel neighboring the campus of the University of Hamburg. It is located in a tree-shaded residential street and housed in a charming art-deco-mansion. It is well situated in a green part of the city's center, approx. a 7 minute walk from Dammtor train station.

http://www.hotel-vorbach.de

Garden-Hotels Poeseldorf: Also at the 3-star level, this place is located in the posh city center neighborhood of Poeseldorf, a short stroll from the Outer- Alster Lake. It consist of a couple of former residential villas. Buses run on Mittelweg, about 3 minutes by foot away and might be preferable over Hotel Vorbach.

http://www.garden-hotels.de

Hotel Baseler Hof: This family hotel is situated on the busy Esplanade street right in the center of town. It offers decent lodging and a well known wine bar and restaurant by the name of Kleinhuis, that gets quite an amount of traffic for lunch. I would rate it as a 2.5-star place. Its ambiance is a bit 60-ish but clean and its location is prime with the main shopping arcades, the Inner- Alster Lake and the opera are just a few minutes of walking away.

http://www.baselerhof.hamburg.vch.de

25- Hours- Hotel: This is Hamburg's version of The Standard Hotels in L.A. and West Hollywood. A totally hip and new 3-star property on the grounds of a revived gasworks property in the neighborhood of Bahrenfeld. Health club privileges at the neighboring Elixia Spa can be obtained at a small cost from the front desk of both hotels. At weekend nights the downstairs bar cum restaurant (Sushi Bar) may well turn into a popular lounge and nightlife spot for the chic local crowd. This is not exactly center of town, but there is access to the local S-Bahn (express trains) a few minutes away and the bustling nightlife in Hamburg's Schanzenviertel and the Red Light District around Reeperbahn on St. Pauli are just a short cab ride (or train ride) away. I sort of like both places from their appearance, but would suggest the 25-hours only, if you feel young enough.
If you like modern design, but like it a bit more comfortable and sedate, the 25- hours is affiliated with its sister property,
4-star Hotel Gastwerk right opposite a small square. The Gastwerk Hotel also sports a pretty good Italian Restaurant by the name of Da Caio.

http://www.25hours-hotel.de/25h/index.html
http://www.gastwerk-hotel.de/englisch/index_sf.html

Crowne Plaza: Hamburg's Crowne Plaza hotel is a modern 4-star property located in the Uhlenhorst neighborhood just across from the Eastern shores of the Outer- Alster Lake. It is chainy, but offers all the mod cons along with a pool. Buses stop close by and will take you to Central Station within 5 to 10 minutes. The reason I mention this one is that they seem to offer pretty attractive rates on a regular basis.

http://hamburg.crowneplaza.com/hamge_de/index.shtml

As the competition is fierce in the hotel market, rates in general are not too high and deals can often be found. Thus, I will mention a few definitely 5-stars, too:

Raffles Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten: THE grande dame of Hamburg's hotels and usually among the top 5 of Germany. It is located on the Inner- Alster Lake, a stone's throw from shopping and smack in the center of town. It is old- fashioned but updated regularly, but does not sport a pool, though.

http://www.hvj.de/

Kempinski Hotel Atlantic: Located on the shores of the Outer- Alster Lake (busy street in between), a mere 5 minutes from Central Station, this majestic white palace- like property has been rivalling the Vier Jahreszeiten for decades as the city's prime hotel. It offers every imaginable luxury and gracious service. I would prefer it over the Vier Jahreszeiten (it sports a pool, too), although its location is not as nice as the latter one's.

http://www.kempinski.atlantic.de/eng...page/index.php

Park Hyatt: This one is housed behind the locally typic red brick façade of an early 20th century building adjacent to a shopping arcade on Hamburg's shopping street Moenckebergstr. It is only a stone's throw from Central Station and features a pretty nice health club and spa in its basement.

http://hamburg.park.hyatt.com/

Dorint Sofitel Am Alten Wall: Housed in the former central Post Office just steps from City Hall, this one's interior is a modern design statement and features a nice enough Health Club. There was a fire a couple of months ago, so inquire whether the Health Club has been put in operation again (given that you'll be here in May, I presume it will be).

http://www.dorint.de/hamburg-city/uk/home.html

Le Royal Meridien: Unlike the Meridien Hotel Stillhorn, which is located in the undesirable neighborhood of Stillhorn bordering the Autobahn and quite a long way from the city, this one is the new kid on the block of the luxury hotels. It is not far from the Kempinski Atlantic, also overlooking the Outer- Alster Lake. It often offers good rates, but be prepared to spend some money on cabs (or walk five minutes through the multi-cultural neighborhood of St. Georg on its back in order to catch a bus to take you to Central Station within 3 minutes on Lange Reihe St. Beware that you do not step onto Hansaplatz, though, where drug addicts frequently gather.). The hotel offers very modern rooms and some stunning views.

http://www.lemeridien.com/germany/ha...l_de1800.shtml

Marriott and Renaissance Hotels: You could not go wrong with either of these two properties, that are located near each other right in the center of luxurious shopping in the city's most prestigious shopping district close to City Hall. The Marriott sports a pool, but if you reside at the Renaissance, you have free of charge access to that, too.

http://www.marriott.com

For an overview of prices and availability, you might want to take a look at:

http://www.hrs.de

You might also take look at Priceline. In order to avoid ending up at the unattractively located Le Meridien Stillhorn in the 4-star category, bid for a 5-star. The Raffles Vier Jahreszeiten and the Le Meridien seem to come up here frequently and the rates should not exceed EUR 95.- to 100.- this way.

http://www.priceline.com


All sorts of information on Hamburg can be found at

http://international.hamburg.de/

Sights and Activities:

Although, it features a couple of Museums that are worth taking a look at, Hamburg IMHO is pretty much of an outdoor city. While it is the second largest city in Germany, it is not that densely populated and there are countless parks and canals making the city very green and very much geared towards water. In fact, we inhabitants consider sitting outdoors only complete when there is some contemplative water around somewhere.
Apart from that, Hamburg is continuously reinventing itself, partly due to necessities of commerce and trade from which the city has drawn its wealth. Keep in mind, that this is one of the wealthiest areas in the EU. However, this has caused many buildings that might have been worthwhile to preserve to be torn down, on the other hand, there are still gorgeous residential Art Deco areas to be found along with majestic buildings lining the Alster Lake shores and some stunning new architecture in the developing areas of Hafen City and along the river Elbe in Oevelgoenne and Neumuehlen.

Tour of the port: The city's main source of income is the port, which is booming and recently has risen to rival Rotterdam as one of this continent's main trading posts. Unlike in most other cities I know, the port is an integral part of downtown and quite worth a sightseeing tour. Small and large vessels for tours leave from Landungsbruecken, which is a stop of S-Bahn and U-Bahn trains, too. I think it is best to board one of the small boats called "Barkassen", as these will take you on a tour through the channels of the historic "Speicherstadt" (warehouse district), where in old brick buildings spices, tea, coffee and carpets are being stored, but which also is a big development area much like the Docklands in London.

St. Michael's church: St. Michael ("Michel") is Hamburg's landmark church. It is located not far from Landungsbruecken overlooking the city and the river. A fantastic view can be enjoyed once you have climbed the numerous steps of its spire (small fee). Its interior is understatedly elegant and thus reflecting this city's mentality. You might be lucky and find that the organ is being played, which is quite impressive.

Krameramtsgasse: This small alley is basically the only one that survived the big fire more than a hundred years ago. It consists of small buildings reflecting street life and living in the old days. It is only steps from St. Michael and a bit tricky to find. Look for an alley just to the left of a restaurant called "Krameramtsstuben" a little bit below the back side of the church.

>B< City Hall: >/B< City Hall is a pretty impressive structure on Rathausmarkt (U-Bahn stop) right in the center of town behind the Inner- Alster Lake. Tours are available, though I am not sure how frequently.

>B< Reeperbahn: >/B< Hamburg's famous red-light district is worth a look at, whether you approve of it or not. Formerly a long alley where ropes for ships were being manufactured, it became one of the most notorious red-light districts catering to the sailors from all over the world arriving in Hamburg's port. While the area is still pretty grimy, past efforts of revitalizing the area have been pretty successful resulting in the Reeperbahn and its surroundings becoming the center of Hamburg's nightlife with clubs, a Musical Theatre, cabarets (Schmidt's and Schmidt's Tivoli) and countless bars blending in with traditional brothels and topless bars. While pretty unimpressive during daytime, it gains attraction once night and darkness have settled in.

>B< Blankenese: >/B< A hilly suburb down the river, this picturesque neighborhood encourages a walk through steep alleys bordering small and beautiful houses, all overlooking the River Elbe and the majestic ocean-going vessels.

>B< Hagenbeck's Zoo: >/B< This is one of Germany's first zoos and is still among its prime. Privately owned and operated, Hagenbeck is famous for being the first zoo in Germany to having introduced a presentation of animals in surroundings resembling their native conditions. During summers, "Jungle Nights" are pretty popular nightly shows.

Museums:
Kunsthalle is located right next to Central Station and displays numerous paintings by this world's biggest name painters. It has a modern addition dedicated to modern art of all kinds.

Bucerius Kunstforum is located on City Hall Square (Rathausmarkt) in the ground floor and basement of the HypoVereinsbank building next to the canal and thus reflecting the intertwined relationships of business and art in the city. It is a small venue housing varying high quality exhibitions.

Museum for Hamburg's History is located near Reeperbahn and features a collection documenting the changing history and independence of Hamburg throughout the ages.

Miniatur- Wunderland: Miniature- Wonderland is a pretty new introduction to the Museum scene consisting of one of the world's largest model railroad facilities. It is a fun place for the young at heart and offers a lot of enjoyment with its gorgeous attention to detail. It is located in the Speicherstadt warehouse district and accessible by train through the "Baumwall" U- Bahn stop.

Hamburg Dungeon is located right next to Miniatur- Wunderland, also housed in one of the red brick buildings of the Speicherstadt. It is an interactive museum dealing with Hamburg's past of the 17th century and likely to send some shivers down your spine.

Barlach Haus: Located in Klein Flottbek close to Blankenese, the Barlach Haus mansion displays the sculptures of famous North German sculptor Ernst Barlach and is definitely worth a visit.

Alster Lakes: The Inner- and Outer- Alster Lakes are acutally not lakes but part of the small Alster River that has been dammed up. Located smack in the center of the city, they are one of the city's main venues for recreation. I strongly recommend a leisurely stroll along the posh neighborhoods of its Western shore, or even better: renting a sailing boat (best and easiest at the berth in front of the Hotel Atlantic on the Western shore) or a rowing boat (e.g. from Bodo's Bootssteg at the Alte Rabenstraße berth on the Western shore, in front of the Hotel Intercontinental. Bodo's also features a nice terrace to enjoy a cup of coffee in the sun, or a small beer or shandy (mix of beer and lemonade) called "Alsterwasser" and in Bavaria known as "Radler".
There are small white ferries that can be boarded in order to get you from one end to the other. Others depart from Jungfernstieg (S-Bahn and U-Bahn stop) on pretty scenic tours of the widely spread canals affording intimate views into the backyards of some of Hamburg's poshest homes.

Elbchaussee: This is one of Hamburg's main arteries connecting the city center with the ritzy neighborhoods along the River Elbe. Wonderful old mansions along with some nice views of the container port and the River can be spotted along its meandering way out to Blankenese.

Strandweg in Oevelgoenne: Strandweg is a small pedestrian walkway in Oevelgoenne down by the River Elbe and lined with pretty neat old Captain's houses. It is best accessible by ferry from Landungsbruecken. These ferries are included in a day pass of Hamburg's public transport system called HVV and invites for a leisurely stroll along the River.

Fischmarkt: The famous fish market is held Sundays starting at around 5 a.m., so get up early. It is located down by the river, not far from Reeperbahn and does not only feature fish stalls, but in fact produce and other items of all varieties at bargain prices. Usually some Jazz Music and beer is available at Fischauktionshalle (Fish Auction Hall).

Ohlsdorf Cemetery: This cemetery is one of the world's largest and without wanting to appear morbid, it is quite a spectacular park in the best of British landscaping traditions and thus of a high recreational value. No fun activities like rollerblading allowed, though, for respect of the dead.

AOL Arena/ Color Line Arena: For those interested in sports, the AOL Arena (formerly known as Volksparkstadion) is probably the second best football (soccer) stadium in Germany (behind Gelsenkirchen's Arena auf Schalke, and possibly behind Munich's new Allianz- Arena, which has to be completed, though) and home of Germany's only football team to always having played in the highest league, HSV (now you know from where I took my screen name ;-). There is a museum of the club's history and players' practice sessions can be observed on weekday mornings or afternoons (check with the local press). Right across the street, Color Line Arena is the second largest indoor sports arena of Germany (behind the Koeln Arena in Cologne) and also hosts international concerts. Train stop for both is Stellingen, from where it is a 10 minute walk in the park (which can be nerve-wrecking). On playing days, shuttle buses operate, but are almost always packed.

Shopping: Hamburg offers some of Germany's finest shopping. High- end stores are located in the area South of the Inner- Alster along Neuer Wall St. and Jungfernstieg. There are also several shopping arcades in this part of the city in order to facilitate shopping during rainy days (which are frequent, although the amount of rainfall in contrast to the ever popular cliché is not higher than anywhere else in Germany).
Big deparment stores (Karstadt, Kaufhof, H&M) are located on Moenckebergstr, not far from the above mentioned streets in the direction of Central Station.
Fine shopping can also be found along Eppendorfer Baum and Eppendorfer Landstr. streets in Hamburg's popular neighborhood of Eppendorf near the Western shore of the Outer Alster Lake.
Should you be interested in distinguished interior design, Stilwerk is a shpping mall dedicated to the finest names and located right behind the fish market by the river. There is a ferry stop right opposite, which can easily be accessed from Landungsbruecken.


Hamburger Staatsoper: The opera is located on Stephansplatz (U-Bahn stop) right in the center of town. Whereas it does not draw the big names in opera currently, it still plays host for performances of young aspiring singers. It is also the venue of the Hamburg ballet, which offers worldclass performances under the guidance of American John Neumeier.

Lion King Musical: The Lion King Musical has been playing for a couple of years in a theatre right in the middle of the port, overlooking the city center. It is best accessed through a short ferry ride from Landungsbruecken.

I will follow up with a few suggestions on dining and nightlife shortly.
Greetings
hsv

HSV, thank you sooo much for the little mini Hamburg guide. In none of the Germany travel guides I've picked up - Eyewitness, Let's Go, Lonely Planet - do they give sufficient space to Hamburg. The hotel recommendations in particular are much appreciated.
P.S. - I'm not at all disapproving of Red Light districts. I love that Europeans generally aren't so judgmental and Puritanical about them. Just walking through them is fascinating, and not in the "ooh aah" gawking tourist way.

martytravels,

I actually think the Lonely Planet guide isn't that bad. I just scanned it and at least their introduction is pretty spot on, I believe.
Anyway, here is the follow- up with suggestions for:
<b> - Breakfast </b>
<b> - Lunch </b>
<b> - Dinner </b>
<b> - Bars and Clubs </b>
<b> - Excursion
<b> - Miscellaneous and a word of caution </b>
</b>

<b> Breakfast: </b> Should you not have breakfast included in your room rate and should you not want to enjoy breakfast at your hotel of choice, you might try these places:

<b> Literaturhaus Caf&eacute;: </b> Located in the Uhlenhorst district on Schwanenwik No.38, this caf&eacute; is housed in a stylish art deco mansion serving as a venue for performances and readings of authors and poems. Although the Outer Alster Lake is right opposite the street, there is no view of it. But you are seated in a ballroom like environment under lofty ceilings. Service can be surly at times, but they have a nice selection of breakfast items and their raw-milk cheese selection is legendary among the town's affcionados.

<b> La Caffeteria: </b> Located in Abendrothsweg, a stylish residential street in Eppendorf district, this place is housed on the ground floor of a grand art deco mansion at Abendrothsweg No. 54. They open at ten in the morning and feature five different breakfast offers all day long.

<b> Die Roesterei: </b> This Viennese Kaffeehaus style caf&eacute; is located on the first floor of the Levantehaus shopping arcade on Moenckebergstrasse. It is big and bustling but offers coffees and teas from different regions of the world, with the coffee beans being roasted by themselves. Also good if you want a rest after shopping or exploring town.

<b> Caf&eacute; Lindtner: </b> This wonderfully old fashioned caf&eacute; features a selection of breakfasts as well as some of Hamburg's best cakes in the afternoon. It is located in the shopping district of Hamburg Eppendorf on Eppendorfer Landstrasse No. 88.

<b> Lunch:</b>
<b> Bratwurst stalls on Moenckebergstr.: </b> Hamburg's best grilled sausages can be had from the two stalls opposite each other on Moenckebergstr. in the city center, neighboring C&amp;A department store and Goertz shoe store (do NOT confuse it with the one at the entrance to Karstadt opposite St. Petri church!). A delicious Thueringer style bratwurst labelled Moe- Wurst or a Schinkenwurst with a bun will set you back &euro; 2.10. A Currywurst will retail at about &euro; 2.50.

<b> Vapiano:</b> This stylish luncheon eatery decorated by Milano based designer Matteo Thun has revolutionized downtown's lunch habits. A stylish crowd gathers here to enjoy on- site freshly prepared pasta with made to order sauces. The place is self-service and you watch the chef prepare your dishes. Afterwards you can lounge on a couple of sofas at the bar in the entrance area and enjoy some freshly brewed espresso. A meal will set you back around &euro; 5.-. They are located next to the Hamburg Renaissance Hotel on Hohe Bleichen Street.

<b> Cha Cha: </b> This brand new place in Hamburger Hof shopping arcade is accessed from Grosse Bleichen street in the city center. They prepare Thai food freshly and quickly. It is a non-smoking zone, which is as rare as refreshing in Germany. A meal will cost around &euro; 6.-.

<b> Caf&eacute; Paris: </b> This authentically French bistro is a nice stop close to City Hall, located at Rathausstrasse No.4. The French owners prepare nice lunches and reasonably priced daily luncheon specials along with a great atmosphere to which the beautiful antique tiles along the walls contribute greatly. A main course will cost you around &euro; 9.-. This is also a great place to people watch, as it is always packed. It is also popular for dinner, you might want to make reservation before, though, to secure a table. Telephone Number is 040- 32 52 77 77. Dinner prices might be slightly higher, but should not exceed &euro; 15.- for a main course.

<b> Dinner: </b>
While Hamburg features the highest density of star- decorated restaurants in Germany, most of these places are pretty expensive, although probably worth it. Given your comments on what you are looking for, I'll try to point out a few restaurants that are not over the top, but still pretty good at what they offer. I will list them in the order of my personal preference:

<b> Stocker: </b> I have been raving about Austrian TV- chef Manfred Stocker's restaurant here on Fodors and I will keep doing so. While not inexpensive, this place is not overly expensive and offers excellent value and food of impeccable quality in a relaxed atmosphere. The style of cuisine is mixed: While they offer a couple of classically Austrian dishes, such as Tafelspitz (which I highly recommend) served with an appetizer soup, hash browns, creamy spinach, and a light chive sauce at around &euro; 17.-, they also feature locally and French influenced classic cuisine. Their sumptuous desserts are to die for, and the wine-list extensive (I recommend a Gruener Veltliner white wine from Kremstal at around &euro; 27.- a bottle). They are located in Altona, not far from the train station, at Max- Brauer- Allee No. 80, neighboring the Theater for Children. This is a place for a special occasion and my absolute favorite currently.
Telephone No. is 040- 38 61 50 56.

<b> Das Weisse Haus: </b> Germany's young cooking star and TV- chef Tim Maelzer, somewhat reminiscent of Jamie Oliver (with whom he used to work in London), is your host in this small captain's home opposite the Neumuehlen/ Oevelgoenne ferry stop and the Museum Harbor. The cuisine is creative and sort of wild at times, but always immaculately prepared at this young and fun place. They don't offer a menu, but will ask you what you dislike. They will then prepare a three course dinner catering to your wishes. On Monday nights guests decide on how much they are willing to pay. Otherwise, a meal of three courses will set you back approximately &euro; 30.-. The address is Neumuehlen No. 50, and Telephone Number is 040- 390 90 16. Call ahead for reservations. On weekend nights it's hard to get a table. Sunday lunch often consists of a pot- roast followed by freshly baked cakes, which can be quite delicious.

<b> Elbe 76: </b> This casual but stylish place in Hamburg's inner city residential neighborhood of Hoheluft is easily overlooked and located in the basement of an old apartment home at Bismarckstrasse 76. Thus its name is slightly peculiar, as it is quite a distance from the Elbe River contributing to its name. They have an extremely popular bar in the front, where they also serve the best Pizze in town IMHO. Try a Rucola/ Parma Ham one for a steep &euro; 11.-. It's worth it. They have perfectly chilled Jever Pilsner beer on tap. Also, they sport a restaurant section in the back, which isn't bad, but I prefer to stay in the bar in the front. For some reason undisclosed to me, they only serve daily special Pizze in the restaurant section. As it's often packed, you might want to call ahead for reservations: 040- 40 02 35.

<b> Bottega Lentini: </b> Located on Eppendorfer Weg in Eppendorf. Unfortunately, I don't know the street number, but it is just a few steps from the well known pub called &quot;Legendaer&quot; on the corner of Lehmweg. This is a casual Italian place seating most patrons on bar stools. The food is good, the atmosphere casual and it makes for a nice start into the evening, especially, if you want to visit the hip bar Bereuther close by and described below. A main course of Pasta or Pizza will cost somewhat around &euro; 8.-, meat or fish dishes might sell for &euro; 13.-.

<b> Fischmarkt: </b> This seafood place is not located on Fischmarkt fish market, as its name would suggest (with Elbe 76 located far away from Elbe, this seems to be a confusing trend here, I realize), but located a few steps down from St. Michael's church and a few steps from the port and Baumwall train stop on Ditmar- Koel- Strasse at the corner of Neust&auml;dter Neuer Weg. They don't have a view, but will present you an impressive collection of their catch of the day, which will be prepared according to your preferences in their show style kitchen. Have a glass of beer along with it, or try the dry German Riesling from Schloss Vollrads in the Rheingau region. Food is not inexpensive with a main course at around &euro; 16.- to &euro; 20.-, but served in a nice and relaxed ambiance and it's overall worth it.

<b> Saliba: </b> As you mentioned that you like Oriental food, highly acclaimed Saliba might be an option. Located in Bahrenfeld on Leverkusenstrasse No. 54 (not far from the 25-hours Hotel), Saliba features Syrian cuisine in an old industrial ambiance. Enjoy some pre-dinner tea in their divan- foyer. They will then serve you a vast assortment of Mazze, Syrian and Lebanese appetizers that being served in various courses may constitute a whole meal. It does take a lot of time, though and comes at a price. Main courses will set you back around &euro; 20.-. Telephone Number is 040- 85 80 71.

<b> Casa Algarve: </b> If you want to go a bit on the cheap side, but still enjoy some dinner, there are a number of Portuguese restaurants in Hamburg. Most of them are concentrated in the area around Baumwall, near the Fischmarkt Restaurant (Sagres Plus is the name of a pretty popular restaurant here), Casa Algarve is in the inner- city residential neighborhood of Uhlenhorst on Hofweg No. 63. This eatery near the Eastern shore of the Outer- Alster Lake features a wide selection of seafood and meat dishes at comparatively low prices. I shy you away from their peculiarly bottled house wine, though. Rather order a regular bottle of vinho verde. Sometimes they have a guitar player in the evenings. Main courses sell at prices of around &euro; 12.-.

<b> Bok: </b> Located in Hamburg's trendy &quot;Schanzenviertel&quot; near St. Pauli on Schulterblatt 80 and 92, these are two Asian style restaurants of a locally established chain. The cuisine is an assortment of Thai, Japanese, Korean and Chinese. The quality is somewhat hit and miss IMHO. However, both outfits are pretty hip and always crowded, although I find prices a bit high for what they offer, but that's my personal opinion, and they are still affordable anyway with main courses retailing between &euro; 10.- and &euro; 20.-. After dinner you might want to cross over to <b> Mandalay Bar and Club </b> for drinks and even some dancing with an interesting crowd of the hip and chic along with some slightly alternative types. They do not have any sign outdoors, but you might ask anybody on the street outside the restaurant. They will point you to it. It is in a building facing Schanzenstr. at the corner of Schulterblatt. The exact address is Neuer Pferdemarkt No. 13. They have a doorman, so you might identify it by that.

<b> Bars and Clubs: </b> For some reason, I don't think Friday nights out on town are too good an idea. The city attracts to many folks from the neighboring rural areas and in general the clientele of the bars and clubs deteriorates during these nights. Pretty hip nights for hitting the scene are Thursdays. If you are in town for the weekend, don't be discouraged by this.

<b> Bar Savanh: </b> Located on the ground floor of hip Indochine Restaurant and part of the new business and residential district lining the River Elbe in Neumuehlen, this chic bar is facing the container port, illuminated attractively at nights. They also feature some of Hamburg's best mixed drinks which can be enjoyed lounging on black leather sofas. The address is Neumuehlen No. 11. This place is just a short cab ride from Stocker's restaurant (5 min.), should you decide to have dinner there.

<b> Bar Au Quai: </b> This lounge style bar is just two minutes by car from Bar Savanh. It also faces the river and features a great terrace equipped with gas heaters atop the River Elbe. Good drinks which are not over-pretentiously decorated, but concentrate on the ingredients and chilly music. Address is Grosse Elbstrasse 145 b-d.

<b> Ciu's Bar: </b> Located on Ballindamm14/15 overlooking the Inner- Alster Lake in the center of town, Ciu's offers one of the best equipped whiskey selections of the city. The list of drinks is thick as a book and the quality of drinks is immaculate.

<b> Mandalay: </b> I described this one already in the Bok's restaurant review. Located in the trendy (and a bit grimy) Schanzenviertel district at Neuer Pferdemarkt, this place is ideal to have a couple of drinks and dance a bit to house beats before moving on to venture into Hamburg's red-light district along Reeperbahn, which is just a short cab ride away, or 10 minutes on foot.

<b> Bereuther: </b> Located in Eppendorf on Klosterallee No. 100, corner of Lehmweg, this is one of the in- places among the city's jeunesse d'aur&eacute;e. The barkeeper's performance juggling with bottles and glasses while mixing decent quality drinks is impressive. Although featuring a doorman, this place is surprisingly friendly and has less of an attitude than you might come to expect. It is packed especially on Thursday nights.

<b> Hefner: </b> This window-less bar and lounge is a seventies- design classic located roghly between the University district of Rotherbaum and Schanzenviertel on Beim Schlump No.15. Drinks are strong and the selection focuses on classics. It is a relaxed place in general that is seldom overly packed, but still well visited and provides for a good drink in a good atmosphere at nights.

<b> Tower Bar: </b> Popular among tourists (and among them only, I believe), Tower Bar in the Hotel Hafen Hamburg at Seewartenstr. No.9, only a stone's throw from Reeperbahn, features decent drinks. Its main attraction, though is its unbeatable views over the magnificently illuminated port on one side and large portions of the city on the other side.

<b> Bar Morphine: </b> Whereas the (in-)famous Caf&eacute; Keese on Reeperbahn has been an institution for decades offering women's- only choice classic dancing, on its backside basement Bar Morphine is a young and trendy place for dancing and lounging at nights. The entrance fee of around &euro; 8.- is steep, though, with no drinks included.

<b> China Lounge: </b> China Lounge is located directly on Reeperbahn at the Western end near Nobistor. It's also a hip place to go for a dance at nights. Entrance fee is about &euro; 8.-, too and includes access to an upstairs &quot;VIP- Lounge&quot; plus the downstairs dancing area.

<b> Mary Lou's: </b> Located on Hans-Albers-Platz, adjacent to Reeperbahn, this is sort of a sailor's type bar. It is often packed (beware of the occasional pickpocket), slightly sleazy with loud rock music from the eighties to current playing. Beer is the primary drink here – and have one directly from the bottle, because cleanliness of glasses in this establishment cannot necessarily be trusted. Apart from this, the place can still be fun to hang out.

<b> Albers Eck: </b> Also on Hans- Albers- Platz, this bar and basement disco is a Reeperbahn classic. A mixed crowd gathers here and dances to classic and generic pop-music.

<b> Doll House: </b> There is a vast selection of strip joints in the area around Reeperbahn (locally referred to as &quot;Kiez&quot;). However, this establishment on Grosse Freiheit Street (Great Liberty Street), is one of the more respectable ones. The entrance fee is steep – as are the prices for beers, but there is no danger of being ripped off here and bills to reward the girl's (and some men for the visiting females) for their dancing performances on tables are included.

<b> Excursion: </b>

<b> Luebeck: </b> Luebeck is a must-visit IMHO. It is a medieval city located approximately 40 miles North of Hamburg with a very well preserved Old Town. It once was the capital of the medieval trade organization called Hanse, which free cities throughout Europe associated themselves with. The wealth accumulated in those days is still visible in the ancient traders' mansions. The Holstentor City Gate forming the entrance to the city surrounded by the rivers Trave and Wakenitz when entering from the direction of the Central Station used to be printed on the backside of the 50- Deutsch-Mark-Bills and today houses a somewhat spooky Museum of Torture.
A must visit and well deserved stop after exploring the city is Caf&eacute; Niederegger. It is home of the world's most famous marzipan sweets, which has been manufactured for decades after a secret family recipe.
Lunch can be had at restaurant Schiffergesellschaft, which offers local food in traditional surroundings and is well frequented by tourists.

<b> Miscellaneous and a word of caution: </b>
In general I believe you will find this city very liberal – be it in a sexual context with the well visited red-light- district as well as politically and with regards to different styles and cultures of living. About the only thing this city's inhabitants are traditionally conservative about is finance. Apart from that, respect for the different is what is being taught first and considered most important by most of the people here.
After all this has always been a free city that has hardly bowed to any ruling power, which until today is displayed e.g. when the mayor welcomes visiting heads of state. Even the visiting President of the Federal Republic of Germany will only be greeted from the upper step of City Hall's stairway with the mayor standing one step above of his visitor. Within the city's traditionalist elite it is also considered to be unacceptable to wear any medals awarded to people from the Federal Republic of Germany – and even accepting them is questionable. All this along with a mentality that is governed by a sense of understatement and a certain reservation to strangers (which, once overcome can result in true and reliable friendships) has caused Hamburg inhabitants to widely being considered as arrogant. I hope you won't experience the city as that.

For what it is, just as any cosmopolitan city, Hamburg has some areas that are best to be avoided or which require to walk the streets with caution.
This goes especially for the neighborhoods on the Northern side of Central Station (exit Kirchenallee and tunnels leading to subway line U2). St. Georg, as this area is called, is a multicultural neighborhood that also has attracted large portions of the city's gay population and as such has become somewhat thriving. Lange Reihe Street here is a good example and offers quite a few pleasant bars and restaurants and is pretty safe. However, streets to the North and East of Lange Reihe in the direction of Steindamm should be avoided. They are still home to a lot of drug addicts (with a central drug ambulance being located in the Wuestenrot- building behind the Museum for Arts and Crafts) and cheap brothels. Beware – especially do not pass onto the area of Hansaplatz here!
Also a hub of drug dealers is the small Park called &quot;Sternschanzenpark&quot; to the right once you exit train stop Sternschanze. This is fairly close to the hip and alternative neighborhood of Schanzenviertel, so beware here, too.
Also be on your guard on Reeperbahn! Do not necessarily pass the street called Hamburger Berg with its sleazy bars and pubs, where a lot of criminals reside. Although there is a large presence of Police on Reeperbahn (marked and unmarked), recently there have been stabbings of rivalling gangs that are easy to get involved with. Should you be approached by the hookers at Davidstrasse next to the Burger King outfit opposite the famous Police Station called &quot;Davidswache&quot;, decline friendly (unless you are interested, which I do not recommend, although I don't have any personal experience). They will in general respect that.
Connecting Hans-Albers-Platz with Davidstr. there is a fenced alley called Herbertstrasse. It is easily identifiable by the cigarette advertisement of West which reads in German: &quot;The best part about temptation is to give in&quot;. This is a street lined with whore houses displaying the prostitutes behind glass windows. It is an attraction in itself, just to pass through and access is prohibited for minors. But: Do not chat with the women unless you are seriously interested in doing business with them – they are working and doing a hard job and do not deserve to be made fun of or to be made waste their time on tourists unwilling to pay for their services. It also cannot be recommended to pass through this street with your wife or girl-friend. It is a tradition that passing females will be poured some dubious liquids on by the prostitutes from upper-floor windows!

Again HSV, thanks a whole bunch for the recommendations. The specs on the neighborhoods also are much appreciated. The guides give general specs on the neighborhoods and areas that aren't so savory, but not specific street details. I tend to wander all over a city, so those specs on what to expect on certain streets are much appreciated.

martytravels,

you're welcome!
If you are still looking for guides, I know that the German Marc O Polo guides have a pretty recent English version. I don't know, but it might be available to you through amazon. It shouldn't be too expensive, probably around $ 10.-.

If I can think of more, I will post here. Should you need any special info or assistance, you may post your e-mail address and I shall contact you.

Have a nice day
hsv

Coming to think of it, I 've got two more recommendations:

<b> Lunch: </b>

<b> Fischerhaus: </b> A list of Hamburg's luncheon locations would not be complete without Fischerhaus. This is a rustic eatery down by the port located at Fischmarkt No.14. It has two levels. A rustic ground floor that sports a 1950s/60s interior that is pretty ugly and has not been changed much over the decades (it is clean, though) and a modern upstairs. The upstairs section features views of the docks of Blohm &amp; Voss shipyards and the River in front of it. However, I suppose you will find the locals sitting in the traditional downstairs section. The food is nothing spectacular (especially the side dishes), but the fish is fresh and portions are large. In general, this is where I go if I want to enjoy a decent plaice fried in bacon and topped with bacon and butter (&quot;Scholle Finkenwerder style), a classic Hamburg dish originating on the former Fisherman's island of Finkenwerder a bit down the river. You need to drink a beer along with it. This might be the most expensive lunch place I have recommended here with main courses at around &euro; 14.-. I would not recommend this place for dinner, though, as I don't think the atmosphere is worth it.

<b> Caf&eacute; Engel: </b> Caf&eacute; Engel (Caf&eacute; Angel) is located on the ferry berth of Teufelsbrueck (Devil's bridge) right in the River Elbe in the suburb of Nienstedten, close to Blankenese.
It is best accessed by ferry. You would have to take a ferry departing at either Landungsbruecken, Fischmarkt or Neumuehlen/Oevelgoenne in the direction of Finkenwerder. Here you need to change boats and cross over to Teufelsbrueck. Ferries are included in a daypass of the public transport system. The ride is pleasant and sort of something short of a tour of the port. From Caf&eacute; Engel you can take a bus back into town or keep on strolling down the river or back up via Strandweg to Neumuehlen (1 hour walk). The Caf&eacute; features a small menu with very decently prepared foods as its proprietor is a star decorated chef owning the Tafelhaus Restaurant in Neumuehlen, close to Bar Savanh. The Caf&eacute; is also nice to just enjoy some coffee or beer on its terrace.
It is also open for dinner and a meal will set you back around &euro; 15.- to 17.-.