You pretty well summed up our feelings about the area as well. It's been a while since we spent time on the Mosel -- probably due to return soon.

There are sweet boat trips between Cochem and Beilstein - different than car as you can see both sides of the sinuously twisting river not just the one side you are driving on - these are small boats compared to the Rhine K-D boats. and it's a nice short cruise - I think they have evening boats with music and food in high season.