Coals to Newcastle- can anyone help Sheila with some advice about Scotland
 

Danna has convinced me. KMR and I are going for a week's holiday to a cottage in remote D&G on 24th March.

(Actually, that's a lie- we won it in a raffle )

We will be at Barnacle Cottage on the RSPB reserve at Mersehead.

It's 18 miles/29 km south-west of Dumfries on the A710 just before Caulkerbush.

Now, on the basis that we will have to chill, and we're not American, and our mad friend Helen is coming for a few days- what should we see? Where should we go?

Sheila:

KMR? D&G? RSPB? Anyway, you've helped so many on this board, thought I'd top this up for you so someone can return the favor.

Adn please, tell us about your mad friend Helen!

Robdaddy: RSPB is the Royal Society for the Protection of Birds. Check out www.RSPB.org

Sheila: Is it safe to assume that you don't need to be told to go birding? Are the Barnacle Geese still around in late March? We visited Caerlaverock to see them in November 2004.

Sheila,

As ever the question, what do you like?
Presumably you will have seen http://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/

We go to D&G often and will be a little further west a little earlier than you.

Castles (especially Caerlaverock and Threave) are good as are the abbeys. Dumfries town centre nice, also Kirkcudbright (coast near A711 good). Gatehouse a bit run down now, but nice setting.

NTS Threave Gardens interesting.

Further W we like the Machars generally, and the Rhinns of Galloway down to the Mull, less so N to Corsewall.

Good walking in Glen Trool (very easy walk on tracks/good paths from Bruce stone across to Loch Dee has feel of getting into hills). Nice gentle forest walks at Daltamie off A75 at Palnure.

Nature reserve on edge of forest at Dromore up from Gatehouse.

Michael

Wasleys hit many of the things I would have recommended. But since you are over near Dumfries you could certainly take a day trip over (dare I say it) into England. Lanercost Priory and a bit of exploring along Hadrian's Wall would be a decent day trip.

Sorry; I sometimes assume...

My husband is KMR. I've been posting here so long that I thought EVERYONE knew that:)

D&G, is Dumfries and Galloway. I must say I'm very amused by this, because I'm always thinking to myself, "why do Americans not type names etc in full?!", and here am I doing the same thing.

The geese will still be there, which is why I chose this time of year, much to KMR's disgust.

I do know Undiscovered Scotland; and, indeed, The Guide to Scotland Online; and I own a slightly aging Rough Guide and Lonely Planet Guide and a bang up to date Scotland the Best.

We like birds and nature, and archaeology and history, and good food and scenery, and books and, really EVERYTHING! We'll have the dog, so will walk a fair bit, trying to stay out of the Solway mud. Wasleys, your suggestions are great. Others, please?

Janis, if we have to collect mad Helen at Carlisle station, that's as far into Englandshire as we'll go.

We really don't know the South West at all. I had one holiday in Castle Douglas when I was about 9 (which wasn't yesterday), I've been to Dumfries once for a conference, I visited Mersehead when we (RSPB we)were buying it, and we drove through and spent a night on our honeymoon 27 years ago. KMR can only sign up to the last of those.

More ideas, please?

And there was us thinking you'd found some Dolce and Gabbana that only the fashion police would know about....

As a Doonhamer born & bred who spent all of his boyhood holidays in Galloway, may I congratulate you on your choice of holiday destination. What to do? Hmm.
Some of the more obvious destinations are: New Abbey, visiting Sweetheart Abbey - if you don't know the story, I can tell you - and the old Corn Mill there is quite interesting, as is the clothing museum in Shambellie House on the outskirts towards Dumfries. the two pubs in the village centre both serve excellent food & drink.
Dumfries I guess you know, although there won't be many visitors there before Easter; all things Burns are on offer, from his house to his grave!
Heading west rather than east, there is an excellent beach at Sandyhills, just right for a windswept walk in late March, then drive on to Colvend and the Clonyard House Hotel, which has a (deservedly) renowned kitchen - nothing fancy, just guid Scots fare.
Caerlaverock is always worth a visit, but you probably know that already, and Threave Castle is nice, but it may be a bit early for the gardens there, which is a shame as they are beautiful.
Farther afield, I always enjoy the Gem Rock museum at Creetown, or you could go clattering down the Raiders Road at Clatteringshaws Loch, or how about panning for gold at Wanlockhead (a bit far, but it IS different).

Just a taster, Sheila, if you need any further info, just ask.
Cheers
Iain

When we stayed in near Dumfries, we enjoyed finding the Andy Goldsworthy works which can be seen around his home village of Penpont. We got a map of them from the Dumfries tourist office.

We also went down to the tip of Galloway to find the remains of the Wicker Men.

Wigtown - book town.

Another town near there - supposed to be the art town. Begins with a K I think.

Portpatrick - quite pretty on a nice day. The pub on the front does nice lunches & the Fernhill Hotel does a 'lobster feast' - but I don't think you eat fish ?

The Plumed Horse at Crossmichael has a Michelin star but we weren't that impressed with it. There's another Michelin-starred place near Portpatrick but I forget the name.

Caroline's art town with K will be Kirkcudbright. She also mentions Wigtown for books, it has many second hand book shops (and Bladnoch distillery + trips).

Re Archaeology. Obviously look at Historic Scotland website. Stone circle at Torhouse interesting, also crosses at Kirkmadrine, and Whithorn. Cairn Holy (E of Creetown) worth a look, also the fort at Barsalloch on A747. St Ninian's cave a wasted walk we feel. Is a clearance village at Polmaddy near Dundeugh on A713.

Re birds/country etc. Reserve at Dromore possibly worth a look, easy walk + harder one on hill. Eagles on Cairnsmore can (we have been reliably told) been seen from L Grannoch just north of here.

Nice walk from Gatehouse across hill to Anwoth, through Killiegowan Wood, up B796 (quiet), side road to Ornockenoch, follow track to Woodhead, back down B796, cross river at Rusko, Castramont Wood (deciduous explore), home.

Garlieston conservation village, Mulberry Harbours, follow shore S (Galloway Ho Gardens worth explore) to Cruggleston Castle, retrace.

Is reserve and good cliff walk at Mull. Portpatrick pleasant, cliff walk N.

Woods at Creetown (where we stop) being opened up with reasonable paths.

Michael

I am truly impressed with this. Fodors is something else. Maybe I'll hang around:)

Any more?

If you are in Dumfries you have to visit Robert Burns home which is a museum open to the public. His grave is also in Dumfries as is a mausoleum. There was a statue of his wife Jean Armour unveiled not too long ago which is worth a visit.

If you are at all interested in books then Wigtown is great..books galore !!

Have a lovely time. I love D&G................

Sheila,

Sorry - I can't give you any advice on D&G but I can't help checking this thread in the hope that one of our non-UK friends asks what the hell coals & Newcastle have to do with it!!

Are Fodorites from other parts of the world familiar with this phrase?

Jim

Since Newcastle is (was?) the capital of the British coal industry, "sending coals to Newcastle" became a proverbial expression for providing something ostensibly superfluous - like Scotland advice for Sheila.

jahoulih,

It's OK - I am familiar with the phrase. Just wasn't sure if others would be.

Jim

Hello, Sheila.

Others have mentioned most of the things we found interesting in that area a few years ago, but I'll add my opinion of them (and a few extra bits).

We loved Caerlaverock Castle (once we learned to pronounce it!). The size and shape were just really interesting, and the huge trebuchet (sort of like a catapult) outside was a source of wonder to us. (We bought miniature replicas of it for my nephews who live in Las Vegas and they had a wonderful time with the whole concept.)

We ate in Dumfries, at "The Eatin' Place" - somewhere near downtown. Way too much food, nothing fancy, but what we ate was excellent. Spent 40 GBP + tip for four people. (We were there in 2002, so prices may well be out-dated.)

We wasted part of a day, in kind of a fun and weird way, by wandering around trying to find the gigantic scuptures at the Glen Kiln Reservoir. We had read about these sculptures by famous artists (Rodin, et al), but couldn't find much info on them. After wandering around for a while, another tourist pulled up beside us in a tiny (4 car) parking area and shared his map with us. (There are supposed to be maps in a little kiosk at the parking area, but they were out of them.)

The map, and the other tourist's advice, got us on the right track. It turns out that the sculptures are pretty much scattered across acres and acres of a farmer's land. Look there! Up on top of that hill, you can see a statue! And, over there! There's the King and Queen sitting side by side (with their restored heads, which were cut off by vandals).

To see some of the statues, you got to drive across the farmer's fields - opening and closing gates as you went over the muddy fields (no lane, just fields!). It was quirky and we still laugh about it (although it was nothing like we expected).

We liked the ice cream at "Cream O'Galloway," a working farm with great ice cream and light lunches, etc.

Dan (my DH) is a rock collector, so our next stop was the Creetown Gem Rock Museum. Excellent displays, if you're into that sort of thing.

Sweetheart Abbey was a great place to visit one day. My favorite part was the sign inside the foundations of one, fairly small room, which marked it as the ONLY place in the Abbey that had a fireplace. Brrrrrrrrr!!!!!!

We also visited the New Abbey Corn Mill and enjoyed our tour, although we didn't spend a lot of time there.

Directly across the street from the main building of Sweetheart Abbey was a really nice tea room, but I didn't write down it's name....with my luck, it's probably the "Sweetheart Abbey Team Room" and I'll feel foolish when someone posts it!

Behind the tea room, on our way back to the car, we saw - for the first and only time in our lives! - people lawn bowling. Fun for us poor, deprived Americans!

We also visited Threave Gardens, and really enjoyed it. I actually liked the sculptures there almost as much as I enjoyed the gardens. (No, I'm not particularly "into" sculpture...it just happened a couple of times on this trip!)

I think we're going to go back and visit Threave Gardens in May/June while we're visiting Scotland. It was really impressive in early September, so my guess is that it will be stunning in the spring. March...hmmm...I'm not so sure about that!

We were less than enamored by Wigtown. I had chosen it because of the books, obviously, but I think we just got tired of looking at them. Also, it didn't seem to me that there were all that many shops...maybe we just missed them somewhere.

Following some obviously-outdated info, we tried to visit "the dig" at Whithorn Priory. "The dig" is years old, apparently never finished, and certainly not ongoing while we were there.

LIkewise, we were a little disappointed by the Mull of Galloway because you're just too far away from the waves, as you stand high up on that cliff. Spectacular in some ways, but we just felt a little "removed" from it. Impressive view, though, of Ireland, Wales, the English Lakes District, & Wigtown Peninsula.

We also had a wonderful encounter with a sheepherder on the way back from the Mull of Galloway. A young man on an ATV flagged us down and asked us to stop. A minute of two later, a flock of sheep appeared on the narrow road and were herded into their own field while we watched the dog work. They sort of "flooded" right up to the car and then turned just a few feet in front of us.

The Kirkmadrine Stones are situated in a lovely place, a little off the beaten path, and a very short stroll down a lane that is closed to vehicles. The stones are behind glass on the back of a small church and there isn't (or wasn't) any explanation or any signage, so the only information we had was what was in our guidebook.

From that point, we headed north into Ayrshire, and then up to Skye and so forth, so I really don't have other recommendations. (I am, however, taking notes from others' posts and may incorporate more ideas into our next trip!)

Enjoy your trip, Sheila!

Gayle

How is the fact that you're not American related to possible suggestions for your stay at Barnacle Cottage?

This Yankee was not familiar with the "Coals to Newcastle" phrase, so thanks. I like it.

As an aside, does anyone know if we will see puffins at Skye or Stonehaven in early July?

katt58,

This is board with posts from predominantly US posters.

Shelia however is a Scot who gives good information to travellers to Scotland on this forum - and she's asking about Scotland. :-D

Take this with humour (which I'm certain is Shelia's intent) or irony.

In the scheme of things - she's a local! :-)

You should certainly see puffins in early July.

just south of Stonehave is the RSPB reserve at Crawton, and whilst you're gtting late for breeding they should still be lurking at the clifftop (that's their breeding, I mean, not yours:)

Skye will be the same, but I'm less good ona specific location.

Sheila, one more thought on something unusual - the Devil's Porridge Exhibition, near Gretna off the A75 - see www.devilsporridge.co.uk for details - we found it fascinating, especially as my mother worked in the WW2 version near Dalbeattie.

this yankee has heard the phrase all her life (but don't know if my children have)

Sheila,
Try and get hold of "The Galloway Hills - A Walker's Paradise" by George Brittain. Some of the lower hills (Bengairn, Screel Hill, Criffel) will be sensational on a good day in March. For historical interest "The Merrick and Neighbouring Hills" by James McBain is a must, if only to show how the landscape has changed since the book was written. I got a modern paperback edition shortly before my first student trip to the area in 19**!! and am now the proud owner of a first edition as well.
When you go to Glentrool (that's when, not if) don't forget that in the eyes of many historians this was the scene of the battle that made Bannockburn possible :-) so it would be high treason not to drink an appropriate toast to those patriotic heroes of long ago.

I'm so sorry I'm so late.... but in response to this breathtaking development.

My dear friend, you will love it there. So, here are the suggestions I compiled for you.

Right off the top of my head.
My faves?
1. Masonic Arms Pub, Kirkcudbright
2. Logan Royal Botanical Garden, Port Logan
3. Stewartry Museum Kirkcudbright
4. Sulwaith Brewery in Castle Douglas, the owner is a really lovely man and he makes lovely brew.
5. Threave Garden, Castle Douglas
6. Galloway Forest Park. I think I could spend years there. Drove through and really want to spend more time there.
7. Sweetheart Abbey on the coast. (actually haven't been there, drove by, plan to return.)
8. Need (love) books? Wigtown is rather fascinating. Got a replacement for one of our cookbooks there.

This fellow has amazing photos and focuses on wildlife and nature spots in Dumfries Galloway. The links are very good and his photos are even better.
www.dumfriesandgallowayna...ory.co.uk/

This site also has a good description of the birds and habitat that interesting to birders.
www.fatbirder.com/links_g...d_galloway

Now my favorite place is Kirkcudbright and I already mentioned the Masonic Arms and the Stewartry Museum. I have to add the Harbor Art Gallery, Tolgate museum and the Auld Alliance restaurant to the faves list.
www.kirkcudbright.co.uk/mainpage.htm

Then there is the chocolate
www.chocs-online.co.uk/

Don't forget to try Cream of Galloway's Oatmeal, Honey, Whisky Ice Cream. Sweet dreams are made of this!

The Galloway Forest Park is on my list of things to do. I have read about sculptures on the walking trails in the park. I think the first link has photos of these. Anyway, if you get a chance.
www.forestry.gov.uk/websi...ForestPark

This is a nice overall site
www.visitsouthwestscotlan...ctions.asp

Beyond this.... Hmmm
We bought some very fine cheese made by this cheesemaker.
www.camphill.org.uk/webup...arthur.htm
I know that you can get this cheese at the nature food store in Castle Douglas.
www.castledouglas.net/dbC...EntryID=47
Hint... don't buy their oak leaf wine.

I want to poke about Port Patrick and Port Logan. I think Port Patrick has a wonderful seafood restaurant.

There is a fun local museum in Newton Stewart.
There is a lovely Cairn the way to Newton Stewart.

That's what I can think of right now.

Nelson - puffins on Skye. I've only ever seen them in the water off Skye.

There are some good trips you can take in inflatable boats where you would stand a chance of either seeing them in the water or on inaccessible sea cliffs.

www.seafari.co.uk operate out of Armadale

www.aquaxplore.co.uk operate out of Elgol and one of their trips is called Puffin run to Canna and Sanday.

Other sites worth checking because they have listed wildife/bird sightings on Skye are

www.otter.org who are based in Broadford where they have a little shop and information centre

www.skye-birds.com

Have you read Adam Nicholson's book Sea Room about the Shiant Isles where there are large colonies of puffins?

Kippy,

Thanks very much for the links and information. I have bookmarked them for future reference. Will look into the Adam Nicholson book as well. I'm off to the library within a few days for the next round of Scotland books.

My wife usuually can't do a small boat trip - she has inner ear damage and vertigo, the result of being struck by lightning - and so usually has to confine her seabird watching to the shore. But we'll see what things are like. Thanks again.

Hi - You might find this website useful: http://mappic.org/map.php?mid=58

Just click on the red dots to see photos from that area :)

Shiela,

If you're still keeping an eye on this you may care to note somewhere I forgot to mention, and which not many people get to, which is the remains of the medieval church and dark ages chapel in the Machars at Barhobble (OS: NX 310494). Also on our recent trip to Galloway we found a couple of pleasant extensions to the walks in the Fleet Valley.

Despite snow elsewhere in Scotland our ten days there (back today) were quite superb with no snow, full sun all day every day, although very cold. We saw eagles, black grouse, stoat in ermine, many red squirrels (watched three feeding and playing within 20 feet of us for ages) and many roe deer. Glen Trool early, -7°, the sun low and refracting through ice crystals on the grass creating a rainbow effect so it was like walking through scattered gemstones, in the afternoon listened to the ice rustling on the loch; seven hours out and we only saw two other walkers. Wish we were still there, Scunthorpe just isn't the same :-(

Post back if you want details of anywhere I've mentioned in this thread.

Michael

Perfect timing, Michael. Today was set aside for collating everything. So I've done that now:)

How was the holiday, Sheila?

Trip report follows shortly:)