Clarification and advice needed about opera in northern Italy
Oct 2nd, 2011, 12:04 PM
#1
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Clarification and advice needed about opera in northern Italy
We’re in the beginning stages of planning a 2-3 week trip to northern Italy and Croatia for late summer or early fall, 2012. We need some help deciding on an opera venue, and some clarification on when the Italian opera season ends its summer outdoor performances and when the indoor opera houses begin theirs. Specifically, we’d like to attend an outdoor opera in the Arena di Verona in Verona and (or) attend a performance at La Scala in Milan. Preferably we’d like to attend both. We’d like to limit this trip to the northern part of Italy so that we can include Croatia. We’re aware of the outdoor venue at the Baths of Caracalla in Rome, but since we weren’t planning on Rome this trip, we’d rather try for the other two venues mentioned above. We can add Croatia to the beginning or the end of the trip since no reservations for flights or hotels are made yet.
From reading the opera websites, it appears that the Arena di Verona ends their performances at the end of August and September 1st. La Scala ends one season in mid-July, then picks up the next season in late September. If I read both of these schedules correctly, it seems that we will have to choose one or the other venues, since there is a three week time period between the two. Am I correct about this?
Our thoughts are that we’ve never been to an outdoor opera in an ancient arena so it would be unique. We’ve always wanted to attend a performance in one of these arenas. On the other hand, though we’ve been to several famous opera houses, we’ve not been to La Scala. It would be a memorable experience to see an opera there since each of the great opera houses of the world is unique. The specific operas at both venues are fine with us, so that is not a consideration. Our trip dates are flexible, so that is not a consideration either.
So, of these two venues (and of course they are very different) which would you choose? Should we be considering any other venues in northern Italy? Thanks.
From reading the opera websites, it appears that the Arena di Verona ends their performances at the end of August and September 1st. La Scala ends one season in mid-July, then picks up the next season in late September. If I read both of these schedules correctly, it seems that we will have to choose one or the other venues, since there is a three week time period between the two. Am I correct about this?
Our thoughts are that we’ve never been to an outdoor opera in an ancient arena so it would be unique. We’ve always wanted to attend a performance in one of these arenas. On the other hand, though we’ve been to several famous opera houses, we’ve not been to La Scala. It would be a memorable experience to see an opera there since each of the great opera houses of the world is unique. The specific operas at both venues are fine with us, so that is not a consideration. Our trip dates are flexible, so that is not a consideration either.
So, of these two venues (and of course they are very different) which would you choose? Should we be considering any other venues in northern Italy? Thanks.
Oct 2nd, 2011, 12:14 PM
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I believe you are correct about Verona. It would be fun to participate in its Aida performance.
Have you checked Fenice in Venice? It isn't outdoor.
http://www.teatrolafenice.it/
It looks like you could combine Venice and Milan in Sept/Oct. When hub and I were in Milan some years ago, I tried to get tickets to La Scala online and the prices were prohibitive so we "passed". On our day trip to Milan and La Scala Museum, we were told one can get same day tickets most of the time. I don't know if that's true and I'm too chicken to not buy ahead.
Have you checked Fenice in Venice? It isn't outdoor.
http://www.teatrolafenice.it/
It looks like you could combine Venice and Milan in Sept/Oct. When hub and I were in Milan some years ago, I tried to get tickets to La Scala online and the prices were prohibitive so we "passed". On our day trip to Milan and La Scala Museum, we were told one can get same day tickets most of the time. I don't know if that's true and I'm too chicken to not buy ahead.
Oct 2nd, 2011, 01:07 PM
#3
Verona performances are about as over the top as it gets for an outdoor setting. I saw "Carmen" there in August 2010 and sprang for the most expensive tickets which put me almost directly behind the conductor in the second row. If it hadn't been for a bunch of stuffy Brits behind me who got angry when I stood to applaud at the end of the performance the whole thing would have been perfect.
The acoustics were excellent and the quality of the orchestra was also quite good. I cannot compare it to La Scala as I have yet to see a performance there but I can compare it to Berlin, Barcelona, London, and Bayreuth and there IS no comparison...two different experiences IMO and you ought to do it at least once.
The acoustics were excellent and the quality of the orchestra was also quite good. I cannot compare it to La Scala as I have yet to see a performance there but I can compare it to Berlin, Barcelona, London, and Bayreuth and there IS no comparison...two different experiences IMO and you ought to do it at least once.
Oct 2nd, 2011, 04:57 PM
#4
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TDudette and Dukey1, Thanks for your input. I enjoyed hearing of your opera experiences.
So, I must be reading the websites timetables correctly then. I think we will have to choose between Milan and Verona. And, if he has to choose, my husband is leaning toward the Verona experience, which was the initial appeal when we starting this trip planning. An “over the top experience” has a great ring to it. The total concept of an outdoor opera experience might just exceed every other venue. But, I will look into the Venice venue and see how that fits, in case we decide differently.
I will also check into getting tickets at the first opportunity. I think too that I’d be too chicken to wait until the day of the performance in the hope of getting a ticket. If I’m only in a city for a day or two, I’d like to be sure of getting a ticket to see what I came so far to see. We did wait until the day of the performance in Budapest on a couple of occasions. It seemed to work for us there, probably because we were staying for a few weeks and if we didn’t get to go on one particular day, we could try for the next.
I do understand that traveling in Italy during the month of August may not be the most desirable travel period. But we’re willing to compromise with crowded tourist conditions in order to have this unique experience. Thanks again.
So, I must be reading the websites timetables correctly then. I think we will have to choose between Milan and Verona. And, if he has to choose, my husband is leaning toward the Verona experience, which was the initial appeal when we starting this trip planning. An “over the top experience” has a great ring to it. The total concept of an outdoor opera experience might just exceed every other venue. But, I will look into the Venice venue and see how that fits, in case we decide differently.
I will also check into getting tickets at the first opportunity. I think too that I’d be too chicken to wait until the day of the performance in the hope of getting a ticket. If I’m only in a city for a day or two, I’d like to be sure of getting a ticket to see what I came so far to see. We did wait until the day of the performance in Budapest on a couple of occasions. It seemed to work for us there, probably because we were staying for a few weeks and if we didn’t get to go on one particular day, we could try for the next.
I do understand that traveling in Italy during the month of August may not be the most desirable travel period. But we’re willing to compromise with crowded tourist conditions in order to have this unique experience. Thanks again.
Oct 5th, 2011, 04:38 AM
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I would book as soon as tickets go on sale. In fact if I were aiming for La Scala, I'd get the ticket first and then plan my trip around it. I'd certainly be surprised if you can get tickets on the day - just by queuing for returns / standing tickets, maybe ?
As well as being able to combine Milan & Venice, there may be a few days at the end of June when you could do Venice and Verona - is that a possibility ? I seem to remember that on our last trip, La Fenice had a performance of 'Gotterdammerung' on the 24th which was the day we left (gah !) and I've previously considered going over to Verona for a performance, so they must have some in late June (we didn't go as it's not possible to get back the same night, so seemed too much hassle).
When we went to La Fenice, we booked online a few months beforehand but there wasn't much of a choice of tickets and those available weren't great - I believe most are sold on subscriptions. But still a lot easier than La Scala I think ! When we picked them up we saw another, long queue so maybe they were waiting fopr returns.
I know 2 people who've been to Verona and they had quite different experiences. One lot booked best seats as it was a special anniversary but were disturbed by loud talking from other tourists around them. The other lot booked quite cheap seats and found it fine. So it sounds as though the quality of your experience is partly based on luck.
As well as being able to combine Milan & Venice, there may be a few days at the end of June when you could do Venice and Verona - is that a possibility ? I seem to remember that on our last trip, La Fenice had a performance of 'Gotterdammerung' on the 24th which was the day we left (gah !) and I've previously considered going over to Verona for a performance, so they must have some in late June (we didn't go as it's not possible to get back the same night, so seemed too much hassle).
When we went to La Fenice, we booked online a few months beforehand but there wasn't much of a choice of tickets and those available weren't great - I believe most are sold on subscriptions. But still a lot easier than La Scala I think ! When we picked them up we saw another, long queue so maybe they were waiting fopr returns.
I know 2 people who've been to Verona and they had quite different experiences. One lot booked best seats as it was a special anniversary but were disturbed by loud talking from other tourists around them. The other lot booked quite cheap seats and found it fine. So it sounds as though the quality of your experience is partly based on luck.
Oct 5th, 2011, 06:12 AM
#6
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Caroline, thanks for your reply.
I think we’re going to go with the Verona opera experience. We’ll probably buy the tickets as soon as they go on sale. Like you say, we'll plan the trip around the tickets (then get flights, hotels, etc). This event is the only item we’re considering that might be so time specific.
To that end we’re already looking at a place to stay in Verona, the Hotel Torcolo. Anyone stay there? It seems nice, very centrally located and if you want, they will get the tickets for you. Do you (or anyone else) think that letting them get our tickets would be a better bet--better than trying to book them ourselves? In the past with other opera houses we’ve had no trouble with online ticketing services. But if the Verona tickets go so very fast (as you say the La Scala ones do), will we have luck?
We really wanted to travel as much as possible in the early fall, not summer. Starting the trip near the end of August is as early as we’d want.
I think we’re going to go with the Verona opera experience. We’ll probably buy the tickets as soon as they go on sale. Like you say, we'll plan the trip around the tickets (then get flights, hotels, etc). This event is the only item we’re considering that might be so time specific.
To that end we’re already looking at a place to stay in Verona, the Hotel Torcolo. Anyone stay there? It seems nice, very centrally located and if you want, they will get the tickets for you. Do you (or anyone else) think that letting them get our tickets would be a better bet--better than trying to book them ourselves? In the past with other opera houses we’ve had no trouble with online ticketing services. But if the Verona tickets go so very fast (as you say the La Scala ones do), will we have luck?
We really wanted to travel as much as possible in the early fall, not summer. Starting the trip near the end of August is as early as we’d want.
Oct 5th, 2011, 06:18 AM
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I don't think the Verona tickets go that fast, but I'd say don't hang about once they go on sale to the public if you want a good choice. (Some are permanently allocated to tour operators who run fantastically expensive inclusive hols - these have been advertised for a few months here, for next year.) If this hotel is used to getting tickets for their guests, that may be easiest and maybe best - I don't know if they might be able to choose / access better tickets than you'd get yourself. Presumably they don't charge a mark-up, do they ? I agree it would be best if someone who's stayed there & done this can advise - presume you've searched for any comments here & on Tripadvisor ?
Oct 5th, 2011, 06:57 AM
#8
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There was one comment for this hotel posted here a few years ago, and the person gave it a positive review. I haven't checked trip advisor, but will do so shortly.
The hotel does charge a mark up, so I'll explore the opera ticketing sight again. I've already signed up for the email "alert" for when the tickets go on sale to the public. That should help.
The hotel does charge a mark up, so I'll explore the opera ticketing sight again. I've already signed up for the email "alert" for when the tickets go on sale to the public. That should help.
Oct 5th, 2011, 07:17 AM
#9
Get the Verona tickets from the ARENA's WEBSITE, not some hotel. You pay for them with a CC and then easily pick them up once you arrive in town..and you easily CAN get THE best seats through the website, too.
As to a hotel..there are several which are not terribly expensive within easy walking distance of the Arena, the train station (if you are doing it by rail), etc.
As to a hotel..there are several which are not terribly expensive within easy walking distance of the Arena, the train station (if you are doing it by rail), etc.
Oct 5th, 2011, 07:25 AM
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Getting tickets to Verona yourself is really easy. Their website is one of the few things in Italy that's not quirky. It's as straight forward as ordering tickets from a German or Austria website (maybe even easier than Vienna). If you do as you've said and get the tickets as soon as they go on sale, you'll have pretty much your pick of seating.
If you are the dress up type (I won't recommend this), then go for a seat on the "floor" of the Arena. During break, the ladies like to parade about in their finery and there's nothing like an audience of thousands to gape at you! I don't recommend the floor because if it rains or sprinkles, it's not that easy to get to shelter. Otherwise, go for it.
Up in the "stands", it's a lot more informal. You're with families or groups of tourists and sitting on hard stone. There are cushions to be rented or purchased at the Arena, so you don't have to bring your own. Do advise that you do yourself a favor and get a cushion. One end of you will thank you for your foresight.
A lot of the seating in the stands is "open" seating by section, so if you want to get a good seat, arrive early. Although I've arrived so late once that all I got was a side seat way up at the top, which was perfectly fine. The sound was great, carried even up there - terrific builders, those Romans! Line of sight was unobstructed and very good. Early arrivals, of course, get the seating more towards the middle where you get a full-on view of the stage.
So, bring an umbrella and get a cushion. Bring your own water and food, water is really expensive if you buy it from the vendors at the Arena.
During the summer, there is also the Torre Del Lago Puccini festival in North Italy. I've never been so can't comment, but would suggest you look into it. Might fit in with your dates.
Which reminds me - there's also a Rossini festival in the summertime - never been to that one either...sigh, so much opera, so little time!
La Scala tickets can be as rare as hen's teeth. Additionally, you never know if you're going to be able to catch a performance or not, as there seems to be that temperamental need to strike in Italy. It's a wonderful for il popolo d'Italia to register their dissatisfaction and dissent, but it can put quite a monkey's wrench into a traveler's plans.
La Fenice's website must have been designed in the 19th century. That's where use of the services of a hotel would be handy, if you want to attend an opera in Venice.
Enjoy! Sounds like a wonderful trip!
If you are the dress up type (I won't recommend this), then go for a seat on the "floor" of the Arena. During break, the ladies like to parade about in their finery and there's nothing like an audience of thousands to gape at you! I don't recommend the floor because if it rains or sprinkles, it's not that easy to get to shelter. Otherwise, go for it.
Up in the "stands", it's a lot more informal. You're with families or groups of tourists and sitting on hard stone. There are cushions to be rented or purchased at the Arena, so you don't have to bring your own. Do advise that you do yourself a favor and get a cushion. One end of you will thank you for your foresight.
A lot of the seating in the stands is "open" seating by section, so if you want to get a good seat, arrive early. Although I've arrived so late once that all I got was a side seat way up at the top, which was perfectly fine. The sound was great, carried even up there - terrific builders, those Romans! Line of sight was unobstructed and very good. Early arrivals, of course, get the seating more towards the middle where you get a full-on view of the stage.
So, bring an umbrella and get a cushion. Bring your own water and food, water is really expensive if you buy it from the vendors at the Arena.
During the summer, there is also the Torre Del Lago Puccini festival in North Italy. I've never been so can't comment, but would suggest you look into it. Might fit in with your dates.
Which reminds me - there's also a Rossini festival in the summertime - never been to that one either...sigh, so much opera, so little time!
La Scala tickets can be as rare as hen's teeth. Additionally, you never know if you're going to be able to catch a performance or not, as there seems to be that temperamental need to strike in Italy. It's a wonderful for il popolo d'Italia to register their dissatisfaction and dissent, but it can put quite a monkey's wrench into a traveler's plans.
La Fenice's website must have been designed in the 19th century. That's where use of the services of a hotel would be handy, if you want to attend an opera in Venice.
Enjoy! Sounds like a wonderful trip!
Oct 5th, 2011, 07:31 AM
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Kathleen:
We attended Aida in Verona this summer, and it was a magical experience, complete with a full moon rise over the stage at mid performance (just lucked into that one). Like Dukey we sprang for the most expensive seats, and despite the fact that they cost 400 euros for the pair, they were well worth it. We too were in the second row. I believe the tickets had been on sale for less than a day when we made our purchase, but I was impressed. Buying tickets for a major concert in the U.S., it's almost impossible to get that close even if you purchase tickets within minutes of the start. People sitting near us had also bought tickets online, so it may be the case that the very best tickets (or at least those in the first few rows) don't automatically go to ticket resellers or hotels. Based on our experience, I'd advise the do it yourself method.
BTW, we stayed in the Hotel Milano, which is about 40 yards down one of the streets radiating out from the side of the arena, emerging just at the entrance to the arena for the high priced ticket holders. It was very convenient. The hotel was reasonably priced (about 150 euros I believe), had well functioning A/C (important on a very hot July day), and was surprisingly quiet given its proximity to the arena (although we were obviously not at the hotel during the opera). Lots of other things to do in a day in Verona...I might get around to posting a trip report sometime.
We attended Aida in Verona this summer, and it was a magical experience, complete with a full moon rise over the stage at mid performance (just lucked into that one). Like Dukey we sprang for the most expensive seats, and despite the fact that they cost 400 euros for the pair, they were well worth it. We too were in the second row. I believe the tickets had been on sale for less than a day when we made our purchase, but I was impressed. Buying tickets for a major concert in the U.S., it's almost impossible to get that close even if you purchase tickets within minutes of the start. People sitting near us had also bought tickets online, so it may be the case that the very best tickets (or at least those in the first few rows) don't automatically go to ticket resellers or hotels. Based on our experience, I'd advise the do it yourself method.
BTW, we stayed in the Hotel Milano, which is about 40 yards down one of the streets radiating out from the side of the arena, emerging just at the entrance to the arena for the high priced ticket holders. It was very convenient. The hotel was reasonably priced (about 150 euros I believe), had well functioning A/C (important on a very hot July day), and was surprisingly quiet given its proximity to the arena (although we were obviously not at the hotel during the opera). Lots of other things to do in a day in Verona...I might get around to posting a trip report sometime.
Oct 5th, 2011, 08:00 AM
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carline: that's good to know.
I probably was trying too early, but was unsuccessful in a number of cities, like Venice, Torino, Genoa - after a couple of dozen tries, I finally settled for operas in other cities. How far in advance did you book your tickets?
I probably was trying too early, but was unsuccessful in a number of cities, like Venice, Torino, Genoa - after a couple of dozen tries, I finally settled for operas in other cities. How far in advance did you book your tickets?
Oct 5th, 2011, 08:03 AM
#15
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Thanks everyone. I've pulled up the Arena website and it appears?? that the tickets are on sale now, so I'd better get busy with that. http://www.arena.it/
We've purchased from other on-line ticket sites before, and everything always went smoothly. It should this time as well.
I've been on trip advisor about the hotel and it does get very good ratings, but so do some others listed. I'll also check out the one you mentioned, midnightsun. That's about the price range for us. Would like it to be less, but can't imagine it being so, in peak season for this city.
Easytraveler, I'll check the dates for those other two festivals you mentioned, although they might be finished by the time we arrive. More opera would be very nice.
We've purchased from other on-line ticket sites before, and everything always went smoothly. It should this time as well.
I've been on trip advisor about the hotel and it does get very good ratings, but so do some others listed. I'll also check out the one you mentioned, midnightsun. That's about the price range for us. Would like it to be less, but can't imagine it being so, in peak season for this city.
Easytraveler, I'll check the dates for those other two festivals you mentioned, although they might be finished by the time we arrive. More opera would be very nice.
Oct 5th, 2011, 08:32 AM
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Sorry, that should have been "caroline", not "carline"
Kathleen: there are also opera houses in Genoa and Torino, the Teatro Carlo Felice in Genoa is quite as famous as La Fenice in Venice. You might want to check out their schedules to see if their performance dates fit in with your travel dates.
Umm, there's also a Verdi festival somewhere...
Kathleen: there are also opera houses in Genoa and Torino, the Teatro Carlo Felice in Genoa is quite as famous as La Fenice in Venice. You might want to check out their schedules to see if their performance dates fit in with your travel dates.
Umm, there's also a Verdi festival somewhere...
Oct 7th, 2011, 04:52 AM
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I booked tickets two days ago for Verona opera in July--first day they went on sale--from the arena website. Very smooth transaction and I got first row on the aisle in the section I wanted (not the most expensive seats but the dark green section--central seats in the "slants.") My biggest dilemma was to choose Aida or Carmen as both were available for our time period--ended up selecting Carmen, as Aida just seems sooooo long (four hours) and I am more familiar with Carmen...although I was tempted by the spectacle and staging of Aida. (We are not the biggest opera fans, in general, and are going more for the experience of seeing it in the arena.) Hope we made the right choice!
Anyway you should have no issue getting great seats from the website.
Anyway you should have no issue getting great seats from the website.
Oct 7th, 2011, 08:59 AM
#19
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Just booked the tickets for Tosca, September 1. We also chose the mid priced, central seats, dark green section (as you did jczinn) and had no problems with the booking. Seats look very good, might be front row, also aisle, but can't tell for sure.
Anyway, that's settled. Now on to the rest of the trip.
Still looking at other opera festivals for our time period.
Thanks everyone for your help.
Anyway, that's settled. Now on to the rest of the trip.
Still looking at other opera festivals for our time period.
Thanks everyone for your help.
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