Cinque Terre Review
 

Background - 40 something Husband and myself from Philadelphia area celebrating our 25th wedding anniversary.

Our itinerary started in Pisa and finished in Siena. We spent 3 days in Monterosso, Cinque Terre June 22-25.

Traveled by train from PIsa to Monterosso. It was a direct route and an easy ride. We paid for 1st class accommodations on the train, but it was probably a waste of money (25 euro). It was nice to have our own private area on the train, but the regular (2nd class) seats would have been just fine.

We arrived mid-afternoon and followed our hotel's walking directions to the old town section of Monterosso and to our hotel (Albergo Marina). Even dragging our luggage it was not a difficult half mile walk.

I have never seen anything as beautiful as the CT in my entire life. The sea is clear as the Caribbean and the homes/businesses line the sea walk in a gorgeous array of color. The photographs just do not do it justice. The weather was fantastic... mid 80's during the day and 60's at night.

Albergo Marina is a well maintained family B&B type hotel. The rooms were small but well appointed. The breakfasts were served in the rooftop lemon garden. They had the usual yogurt and cereals, breads and juices but also someone serving made to order waffles and omelets. We never took advantage of the afternoon snacks, but they always served a mid-afternoon buffet. It usually consisted of a rice or pasta dish and a veggie side.

We walked through the town and quickly picked a late lunch spot. Ristorante Da Eli had the most amazing seafood ravioli. It was a family restaurant like most others in town. The wine throughout the town was light and refreshing. There were no wine lists... just red or white. The rest of the day was spent exploring and trying to get ourselves hungry for dinner. I will not get into every meal... suffice it to say we had nothing bad to eat in Monterosso.

The following morning we woke up, had our breakfast on the roof and got the ferry to Riomaggiore. We got the daily ticket which allowed us to hop on hop off (although we did no hopping) for 15 euro each. I thought it was expensive, but the ferry was a great way to see some fantastic views that you don't get on the train. I have the time table if anyone has specific questions.

The crowds were light. I think we were 1 week early for the summer rush.

Riomaggiore was beautiful and we walked around a bit before starting our walk. The walk from Rio to Manarola was a nice stroll. I remembered to bring a lock from home and we hung it on the fence.

We had lunch at Billys in Manarola. It was very good, but certainly no better than anything else we had in the CT.

We continued to walk from Manarola to Corniglia. It was a bit tougher. I was getting hot but still enjoying the scenery. The walk/hike from Corniglia to Vernazza was more difficult but still ok, if you are in good health. The path was narrow and rocky with many many uneven steps. Thank goodness there was a bar on the route in Corniglia. We stopped for a bathroom break and a cold water bottle. I was surprised to see some fellow hikers having a cocktail. Well, we made it to Vernazza and compiled the most amazing photos, some sore muscles and finished with a feeling that I deserved my dinner and wine that evening. We decided not to make the much more difficult hike to Monterosso. We opted for the ferry back.

There was a huge bonfire on the beach to celebrate the feast of St. John the Baptist.

The next morning we took the train to Vernazza (1.30 euro/each). This is such a beautiful town. We hiked to the top of the town via a different route than yesterday. We found the cemetery at the top of the mountain and had more spectacular views. In Vernazza that afternoon we had the one of the best meals of all at Ristorante Al Castello. It is a 70 step hike to the restaurant, but the Anitpasti Mare was sooooo worth it. The outside dining was beautiful!

Once back in Monterosso that afternoon we spent some time on the beach. Dinner that evening was at Ciak. More delicious pasta and seafood. That evening while eating outside the procession began in honor of St. John the Baptist. They had a band and children and old women walking with candles. Some adult men were caring a huge cross and a statue of Mary. It was something right out of the Godfather. Fabulous!!! The evening was topped off with amazing fireworks (also in honor of St. John)

Other random thoughts:
Our hotel gave a 10% discount for cash payment
There were at least 2 ATMs in town
Don't forget to validate any train tickets
Train tickets are rarely collected on the trains
They sold coconuts on the beach (1 euro per slice)
Family dogs may roam the streets but they didn't beg
Large tv's were brought outside for World Cup Viewing
The best seats at the better restaurants were reserved, but we never had a reservation and were able to be seated in wonderful seats

I would be happy to answer any questions. Just let me know
Michelle

Would love to see your pictures. Thanks for your report.

Hope you took pictures of the procession. How wonderful! Enjoyed your report.

I'd love to see your pix too - we are hoping to go next summer (in the summer rush :( )
By the way, we live outside of Harrisburg

I visited the Cineque Terre in 2007. What a magical place! Not only were the sunsets breathtaking, I even saw an amazing MOONSET, where a beautiful crescent moon set right into the sea!

I stayed in Levanto, one town north of Monterosso, but I took the trains back to the villages - very easy, 10-15 minutes tops. (I had the multi-day pass that covered both hiking and the trains.) I hiked between all five towns. I too took a zillion pictures - how could you not?

Can't wait to visit the area again someday. Next time I'll probably stay in Riomaggiore or Vernazza.

Many thanks for your informative report.
We are booked for a four night stay in Monterosso at the end of the month.
In common with a lot of visitors, we have plans for walking trips during our stay.
You mention walking out of Vernazza, going uphill away from the coast. Did you walk up to meet the high Sanctuary trail? I was thinking of walking up from Vernazza to reach this trail and going north to the convent at Soviore, then descending to Monterosso. How strenuous was your climb out of Vernazza?
Further walking question. With the width of the coastal path, did you experience any problems with overtaking and meeting other walkers?
Is the train frequency in the evenings okay to try an evening meal in Vernazza and not risk a long wait in the station to get back to base?
Any restaurant you saw but couldn't fit in during your stay?
Similarly, any walk that you would have liked to have taken that time didn't allow for?

I will post pics soon since you asked for it.

SeeDee: Our walk to the top of Vernazza was mainly to the high point at the cemetery. I don't think we made it to the convent... I was still sore from the previous day hike and I was anxious for the fabulous lunch that awaited me. haah

The width of the coastal path did get rather narrow at many points and there was some rock hugging as hikers passed each other. I would imagine it would get more crowded as the summer progresses.

I believe the trains to run between towns until 11 p.m.

There was a restaurant on the path just north of Monterosso. I believe it was part of the Hotel Porto Roca which sits on the cliff's edge. One of the tables was so close to the edge that there was no chair, just a pillow on the rock wall. It was an upscale restaurant (pardon the pun). I would have liked to have eaten they were booked with reservations each night.

I was happy with the amount of hiking we did. Perhaps if we visit again I will research the trails more carefully and take one less traveled, but for us it was perfect.

Have fun!!!

Here are some pictures

http://picasaweb.google.com/x2soccer...eat=directlink

Great report and pictures, brings back fond memories from our trip there in 2008. We also did the hiking trails from Riomaggiore to Vernazza, glad for the water break at the midway point.

Michelle,

Great report of Cinque Terre. I love your pictures! We were there in April, the beach was empty but looking at your pictures it looks like Monterroso is hopping. I just love Cinque Terre, just like you I thought it was so beautiful!
May I please have two orders of that fried shrimp?

I hope you post some more pictures.

Your pictures were great. We are going next May. We are not sure how many days to stay... either 1 or 2. How long are the walks between the towns? Are there a lot of trails between the towns or just along the water?

The time to walk from town to town varies. Going north, Riomaggiore to Manarola hardly qualifies as a "hike" - it's very easy, more of a walk, with many paved paths. Manarola to Corniglia is a little harder, a little more of a real hike as I recall, but not difficult. (Except the steps up to Corniglia - but there is a bus you can take up that final portion instead.)

However, Corniglia to Vernazza and Vernazza to Monterosso al Mare are much more difficult hikes - not always along the water but often high above it, often walking through woods, olive groves, or people's back yards, along dirt paths or up/down stone steps. (But there are spectacular views of the sea below.) I am not an avid hiker but I am healthy and in good shape; I found these two hikes a bit challenging but not impossible. (Running up steps in Vernazza after a day of hiking to try to photograph a sunset was NOT a good idea, though - that screwed up my knee for the next few months.)

You can also take easy trains from town to town, quickly, and avoid the hikes if you want - or just do the first two and skip the two more strenuous hikes. (There are also some seasonal boats I believe.) The villages themselves are quaint and fun for dwelling but there isn't much to see in them.)

My pictures (from 2007) show a lot of pictures from the trails:

http://www.portlandbridges.com/00,5D...que-terre.html

Oh you brought so many memories!
Do you have the Albergo Marina website ?
I can't find their info and next year I really want to stay in Monterosso.