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BandDTravel Jan 15th, 2020 03:41 AM

Cinque Terre
 
What is your view on visiting Cinque Terre?
We were originally planning Rome, Venice, Florence with a return to Rome for our flight out. I am reconsidering going to Cinque Terre instead of Florence with a day trip to Tuscany.

How many days in Cinque Terre do you recommend? Is there enough to do there other than hiking to the top of the terre and back?

neckervd Jan 15th, 2020 04:50 AM

"Cinque Terre: Is there enough to do there other than hiking to the top of the terre and back?"

Could you explain what you mean with that?

StCirq Jan 15th, 2020 05:36 AM

My view is that it was lovely 25-30 years ago but today I wouldn't go near it except maybe in very early spring or very late fall - and at those times of year it's questionable whether the trails will be open because of weather. Agree with neckervd that your question is a bit odd - "the top of the terre????" It's a series of villages, one of them with a beach, so there is lots to see and do, if you can manage to get around without being trampled.

BandDTravel Jan 15th, 2020 06:19 AM

I was under the impression that the ‘terre’ or lands were a series of trails that took one above the villages. I was wondering if hiking up the land was the only thing to do in these villages. Is one day enough time there?

should I stay in Florence and make a day trip to Cinque Terre?

Macross Jan 15th, 2020 07:13 AM

Only if you are able to hike. The pesto there is the best but the hikes were one of my all time best travel memories.

KTtravel Jan 15th, 2020 07:30 AM

I think it depends on what most interests you. Have you been to Florence before? I enjoyed both Florence and the Cinque Terre but they are very different travel experiences. Florence has amazing art and history. The Cinque Terre villages are beautiful and fun to poke around. Personally, I wouldn't go to the Cinque Terre to hike in the heat of the summer as it would be too hot for me. We went in October and it was still pretty warm but the hike we took was beautiful.

Jean Jan 15th, 2020 07:39 AM

"should I stay in Florence and make a day trip to Cinque Terre?"

It's 2.5 to 3 hours each way by train depending on the town.

What time of year is your trip? In high season, the towns are extremely crowded.

StCirq Jan 15th, 2020 08:16 AM

You're right that terre means lands, but it's not a reference to trails. Cinque Terre = Five Lands.

starrs Jan 15th, 2020 08:57 AM

There are five villages all along the coast. You can get to each via train. You can, if all of the segments are open, hike to each of them. You can get to each by boat.

This is what we did. We took the train in and stopped at Manarola for a boat tour. My travel friend (also a Fodorite) found it and it was absolutely one of the best travel experiences ever. The wonderful owner/ guide was a native, had worked on cruise ships for a few years and then came home. Handsome, funny, wonderful small boat = such a delightful way to see the five villages and the coast from the water. There were six guest on the boat plus the owner and his sister.

Then we took the train to the largest village and spent the night in Monterosso al Mare. LOVED it. Train back the next day.

If one is hiking, you'd need more than 2 days. We did not hike. In fact, two segments of the trail were closed when we were there.

We went in October and it was glorious. Fabulous weather. No crowds. I'm not sure I'd want to go in the busy season.

This was a side trip from a week's stay at a villa in Tuscany. We didn't check out, but told the innkeepers were were spending then night away and it worked for us to fit in at least a little bit of the CT. I loved it. I had recommended it to my friend and boss for her honeymoon. Their daughter is about to go to college. It took me that many years to get there, but I am definitely glad we visited!

If you want a recommendation and link about the tour and the hotel we enjoyed, let me know.

I loved that part of our trip. I'd love to go back and spend several days. My friend did a mix of traveling to the villages via hiking, train and boat. We just did the boat tour (along the coast with a lunch stop at Monterosso) and then the train to M for our overnight stay and then return to our car and then a stop at Pisa. We timed the Pisa stop perfectly (and accidently) for gorgeous afternoon light that made the photos even lovelier.

kureiff Jan 15th, 2020 09:07 AM

We were there for two nights in late October. We stayed in Monterosso and hiked to Vernazza then took the train to Manarola. It wasn't crowded, and the hike was fun. We also had great weather. I think two nights was sufficient, though.

BandDTravel Jan 15th, 2020 09:19 AM

We are going in the middle of May. We love to hike. We are also going to Rome and Venice and thought that Cinque Terre would be a nice change from the art/history.

BandDTravel Jan 15th, 2020 09:20 AM

Thank you! That is helpful

BandDTravel Jan 15th, 2020 09:23 AM


Originally Posted by starrs (Post 17046621)
If you want a recommendation and link about the tour and the hotel we enjoyed, let me know.

Thank you for your reply. That was helpful. I would love a recommendation. Thank you.

starrs Jan 15th, 2020 09:33 AM

Here's a link to the TA reviews for the boat ride -
https://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUser...a_Liguria.html
My friend found the tour and I said "sure". I am SO glad I did. Seeing the CT from the water on Daniele's boat is truly one of my top 5 travel experiences ever. He was fabulous, but the tour in a small boat was just wonderful. I hate big tour boats. I started to upload three photos, but remembered photos are not uploading now. But I can understand why sailors believed in mermaids. The water was gorgeous and the photo will (sort of) explain.

Here's the TA review for the hotel -
https://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Re...a_Liguria.html

We loved the location. The room was very nice. I chose a room with a private terrace but also loved going up to the rooftop terrace to take photos. The breakfast there was amazing. A buffet but more than a buffet. A room full of tables with over a dozen options on each. There were probably 60 types of breakfast items to choose from. The mosaics in that area were lovely.

When we arrived up the steps from the small lane, we were greeted in the courtyard garden and invited to sit. They brought us (just the two of us) drinks and a delicious fruit cocktail. We were surprised, but sat and relaxed for a while. Then we entered the building. Our bags were taken to the room for us. We were on a moderate overall budget for this trip, splurging in some places (room on the Grand Canal in Venice) and inexpensive to moderate lodging elsewhere. This was not a splurge hotel so we were surprised at the excellent service.

I originally chose it based on a Fodorite's recommendation 10 years before. I had an entire trip booked but had to cancel. I understood that I would lose my deposit because of the timing of the cancellation.

Imagine my surprise when I received an email the next Monday. They had booked the room to a walk in guest. Because the room was not empty over the weekend, they refunded MY deposit. I have never experienced anything like that before. I would have had NO Idea they filled the room. They were under NO obligation to refund my deposit. I was floored. When my travel friend and I started to plan our trip 9 years later, I sent her my previous plan with only one non-negotiable. We would have to stay in this hotel on the CT portion of the trip. Even if were a dive, I was going to repay their kindness and award their customer service.

It was a good moderate choice for a hotel. But I'm sure there are dozens of amazing places to stay in the five villages.

mama_mia Jan 15th, 2020 09:56 AM

You can find information on which paths are open here:
Parco Nazionale delle Cinque Terre - Visit the Park - Paths and Outdoor

The Sentiero Azzurro, which links the 5 villages, has had portions closed off and on in recent years. It looks like the path between Riomaggiore and Manarola may be opening up again soon (although this path is paved and not really a hike). The trail between Monterosso and Vernazza can get very busy. If you really enjoy hiking, look at the upper paths if they are open, since they are often less crowded. We did a hike between Riomaggiore and Corniglia that was lovely. Also enjoyed a hike between Levanto (just outside the 5 towns) and Monterosso.

There are guidebooks for the trails available -- I think maybe Cicerone and Sunflower guides. They also list hikes nearby but outside the 5 villages, which may satisfy your hiking urge if the CT trails are closed.

starrs Jan 15th, 2020 11:20 AM

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1dc8c91117.jpg
Manarola, as we wait for the early morning boat tour.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1b39123e24.jpg
Monterossa in October
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...415cd37d21.jpg
Monterosso
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...98e2277638.jpg
The beach at Monterosso
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...333f6bf525.jpg
The water is gorgeous. I can believe in mermaids.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fbd945718c.jpg
Just gorgeous
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4e450182f5.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...752e5f47e1.jpg
Daniele was fabulous. Just read the reviews on TA (I haven't written one)
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6167b0874f.jpg
Monterosso with Daniele's boat in the foreground
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...966d02cda7.jpg
I LOVED Monterosso al Mare. As much or more as some of the other towns/ cities we visited on that Italy trip.

thursdaysd Jan 15th, 2020 02:22 PM

Gorgeous photos. I was thinking CT was too crowded these days, but you may have convinced me I need to visit.

KTtravel Jan 15th, 2020 02:54 PM

Beautiful photos, starrs. Now I want to go back!

historytraveler Jan 15th, 2020 02:59 PM

I agree with St.Cirque. We were there about ten years ago and IMO it was barely bearable. That was in October. If I was even considering going it ‘d definitely be in the off season. It is nice but really with some research you can find equally nice spots that will be far from the maddening crowds. Europe continues to get more crowded each year. I have now concentrated by travel plans on lesser known places.

historytraveler Jan 15th, 2020 03:01 PM

BTW, Starrs photos are great really beautiful, but were taken 12 years ago if I’m reading her post correctly.

starrs Jan 15th, 2020 03:36 PM

It wasn't crowded at all in October and the weather was gorgeous!
October 3 years ago.
I had a 21 day trip planned in 2008 but had to cancel. After the recession, a new 17 day version of the trip was planned - and was fabulous.
Florence, a week at a villa in Tuscany (very inexpensive), an overnight trip to the CT during that week, train to Venice with 3 nights on the Grand Canal, flight to Naples, ferry to Capri, ferry to Sorrento, private driver for the Amalfi coast, Naples again, train to Rome. 3 days in Rome and then flights out. Incredible trip. Almost perfect in every way.

Not crowded anywhere. The only time we felt crowded on the entire trip were two places in Rome - the Trevi fountain and in the Sistine Chapel. The rest of the time? Wonderful!

Venice wasn't crowded (mid-October). The weather was delightful - sunny and warm. I wore "summer clothes" most of the trip. Florence and Rome were HOT. As in southern US summer hot, but in mid to late October.

starrs Jan 15th, 2020 03:40 PM


Originally Posted by historytraveler (Post 17046836)
BTW, Starrs photos are great really beautiful, but were taken 12 years ago if I’m reading her post correctly.

Thank you on the photos compliment, but no. No crowds. I can post more street photos, but simply no crowds. Restaurants were a delight as well.

3 years ago.

palatino82 Jan 15th, 2020 03:56 PM

If you love to hike by all means go to Cinque terre. I went twice in July. Yes the towns were crowded by day but we set out hiking in the morning and surprisingly the trails were not packed at 8:30-9 am. Monterosso to Vernazza is one of the prettiest parts. My friend had the Sunflower guide which was helpful when we needed to deviate from the main trail. We hiked Riomaggiore to Porto Venere which was long - 5 hours but we barely saw anyone. Then took the boat from Porto venere to riomaggiore. There were lines for the ferries in the 5 terre towns but easy to get it at Porto Venere.
I also went a second time just overnight and did the Monterosso - Vernazza hike both ways then had a delightful dinner overlooking the water at Monterosso. I think the restaurant was called l’ancora. Prebook your dinner with a view.

kja Jan 15th, 2020 07:23 PM

I haven't read all the posts on this thread, but FWIW, remember that if you give yourselves only 1 day for the Cinque Terre, and if the weather is bad (as can happen at that time of year), the trails might be closed. If they are a priority, consider giving the area a third night.

MoBro Jan 16th, 2020 05:47 AM

It's been several years, since we climbed the stairs from Manarola to Corniglia. I will say, this hike might not have been my choice, if I'd known how strenuous it is. Thank goodness it was early May, so the trails were not crowded and the sun was not too hot. There were beautiful vistas, and it was worth the trouble, but all those stairsteps upward are not for the faint of heart.
I walked it with DD. She decided to walk to the next town, but I bailed out, in favor of taking the train from Corniglia to the next town, to meet her. This was a mistake. It was such a long walk down the stairs to the train station, I could have just as well walked to the next town with DD. Live and learn!
We saw so many people walking the CT in flip-flops! I was wondering how on earth they were managing on all those stone steps, which could also be very slippery.
So, plan your hikes and dress appropriately. Carry water, for sure. Wear a hat.
We had stayed three nights in lovely Santa Margherita Ligure, and day-tripped by train to CT. Not sure it would be an easy day-trip from Florence.

kja Jan 16th, 2020 06:19 PM


Originally Posted by MoBro (Post 17047147)
We saw so many people walking the CT in flip-flops!

When I was there, park rangers would not allow people onto the trails if they weren't properly dressed, and that included proper footwear (e.g., hiking shoes).

Adelaidean Jan 16th, 2020 10:49 PM

Against all advice, we visited Cinque Terre in July (2016).
We stayed in Vernazza.
As the crowds poured out of the train and funnelled into the alley down to the harbour, I did feel a bit deflated.

But, we figured early morning and later in the evening it would clear out, and so it did.
Really nice having an early morning coffee, watching the stall holders set up their produce.



Vernazza in the morning
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7dc7ec367d.png
Stall holder
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...562de27e17.png
Setting up




So, our strategy was to walk from Vernazza to Monterosso early

the path can’t accommodate a lot of walkers, so this worked for us.

One day we took the boat to Portovenere, so lovely to see the coastline from the water.


https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f313e4e294.png
Entering the harbour at Portovenere


https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6c80b16d8b.png
Portovenere


https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a77d1e5877.png
Stunning coastline, castle walls.


We enjoyed a wine tasting at Vernazza Wine Experience, and the little alleys were actually quiet off the main ‘road’.

Had great meals.

Overall, a great few days and we are very happy we visited.

Just adjusted our expectations and worked out how to not be surrounded by the crowds.

neckervd Jan 17th, 2020 07:45 AM

In reply to post 4:

Cinque means "five" and Terre stays for "villages".
The 5Terre trails connect these 5 villages at different levels of altitude. As all 5 are seashore villages, the upper trails are a continuous up and down. Therefore, only the lower itinerary gets crowded/overcrowded.

kja Jan 17th, 2020 05:56 PM


Originally Posted by neckervd (Post 17047863)
The 5Terre trails connect these 5 villages at different levels of altitude. As all 5 are seashore villages.

I would not call Corniglia a "seashore village" -- it is on a promontory high above the sea.

neckervd Jan 18th, 2020 03:23 AM

It's lnot even 300 ft above sea level.
But that doesn't change the fact that some of the upper trails may be strenuous for people who are not used to hike.

MoBro Jan 18th, 2020 11:31 AM


Originally Posted by kja (Post 17047581)
When I was there, park rangers would not allow people onto the trails if they weren't properly dressed, and that included proper footwear (e.g., hiking shoes).

Good to know, kja. When we were there, no parks rangers were anywhere in sight.

Dayle Jan 19th, 2020 11:10 AM

We visited the Cinque Terre back in 2000 before it was a "park" with fees and rangers. Stayed in Santa Margherita Ligure (which we loved), trained down to Riomaggiore and hiked back to Vernazza. Stopped in Corniglia and had a long memorable lunch and pooped out at Vernazza. Had a gelato and took the train back. We were very disappointed that the boats were not running every day of the week from Vernazza so we didn't get to have the coastal view that way, but the hike was fantastic. We were there the second week of May and it was a warmer than normal May so we were sorry we started hiking about 10:30 am. It was rather warm, but not bad. The trails were kind of busy in spots but mostly we were on our own. We got a major kick of the women hiking in high heels and dresses! Looked deadly to me.

I will be back in SML in May again this year and am thinking about hiking from Monterosso to Vernazza if weather is good. How long is this section?


mama_mia Jan 19th, 2020 11:41 AM

The Monterosso to Vernazza section is 3.7 KM and takes about 2 hours according to the park website. I think 1.5 hrs might be a better estimate.

Parco Nazionale delle Cinque Terre - Visit the Park - 592-4 (SVA2) Vernazza - Monterosso

Note that on this website it said the trail is currently closed. But I saw on another website that the trail should be open in April (barring bad weather/landslides).

Dayle Jan 19th, 2020 12:43 PM

Grazie mamamia! I'm surprised it says that the trail is closed. For a long time the part from Monterosso to Vernazza has been the only part that has been open! Maybe they mean the other sections of the trail.

kja Jan 19th, 2020 11:17 PM


Originally Posted by mama_mia (Post 17048982)
The Monterosso to Vernazza section is 3.7 KM and takes about 2 hours according to the park website. I think 1.5 hrs might be a better estimate.

As the website indicates, the trail from Monterosso to Vernazza generally takes a bit longer than the reverse direction. I took closer to 3 hours -- but I ran into unexpected drenching rain about half way through (by distance), and the next two hours were among the most terrifying of my life, as the trail turned into slippery mud tilting into the abyss. It was beautiful, though, and I did survive!

With today's selfie-taking mobs, I'd plan extra time.

Dayle Jan 20th, 2020 03:25 AM

Kja, thanks for answering a question I had. I was wondering if one direction of that segment was easier than the other! Yes, the thought of the crowds makes the hike a maybe.

starrs Jan 20th, 2020 04:21 AM

Two segments of the trail were closed when we were there.
Daniele had a couple recreate "the kiss" since the statue was not accessible -
"Via dell’Amore is the walk that brings you from Riomaggiore to Manarola – part of the famous hike between the 5 villages it is by far the most accesible, being even wheelchair accesible. ‘Lovers Trail’ winds slowly along the cliff taking you past locks that lovers have long since attached to the fence and the famous lovers seat just before you reach Manarola."
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...89daddf404.png
"borrowed" photo (credit on photo)
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b79b534f50.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...57eca846b5.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...15f6c41405.jpg

kureiff Jan 20th, 2020 07:43 AM


Originally Posted by kja (Post 17047581)
When I was there, park rangers would not allow people onto the trails if they weren't properly dressed, and that included proper footwear (e.g., hiking shoes).

I hike Monterosso to Vernazza in birkenstocks. I was fine, but they wouldn't have worked well had it been rainy. And the park rangers were checking and cautioned me.

egwright10 Jan 20th, 2020 04:08 PM

I'm headed to Italy for the first time this August. I will spend some time in Cinque Terre and would love to hear more about your hikes as that is what I look forward to most.

miles99 Jan 21st, 2020 09:06 PM

I loved Cinque Terre! Me and my partner stayed in one of the airbnbs, and we loved the experience. Be alert that if you go in the Summer, it will be packed, and it will be very hot.


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