Hi Monica,

We are really enjoying sharing all of this with you...smiling at the good, shaking our heads at the not so good...we know it will just get better, especially with all the amazing stops yet ahead of you....have a great day!!

Sandy

HI Monica,

It is so great to hear from you while you are "on the road." It is generous of you to take time to share - it is fun sitting here while busy with my daily life with a chance to "be in Italy" for just a few moments of my day, living vicariously through you.

I think that the trip reports we write after our return often consist of the highlights and gloss over (as they should) the reality that travel always has its minor irritations and stumbling blocks. Thanks for sharing the real deal - good job on the climb up the tower!

And, I always try to remember the words of the famous/infamous MaiTai Tom ;-) ...
"Enjoy the Journey. Attitude is Everything." You seem to be doing just that.

Can't wait to hear more. Have fun.

Hi everyone,

I am off today to Parma to spend two nights with Tony's cousin Ernesto. I will be taking the 12:30pm train. After this email I will head to the market area and pick up some picnic foods for the train ride.

My Bologna walking tour on Tuesday was wonderful. Simone was very informative and provide a lot of history about Bologna. I met up with Colleen and her husband Jim, who came along for the tour. The tour lasted 2 hours. In addition to seeing the main sights, which are very close to each other, we visited the University area, the original University. Bologna's University is the oldest! This city has a population of 400K plus 100K of students. As I'm sure you remember my hike up the tower, Simone told us that if any student climbs the Torre, they will not graduate!

After our tour, Colleen, Jim and I went to a wine bar for a couple of drinks. Most of these wine bars (enotecas) serve complimentary foods. We had wonderful olives, salami, and sweet pickled onions.

Back at my hotel, we sat in the lobby for about half an hour waiting for the rest of the gang, Pam and Gary, to arrive for our 8pm dinner at Mariposa. This restaurant is literally 30 feet from my hotel. Only about 12 tables, the place filled up quickly, so I was glad to make reservations through my hotel.

Dinner was fabulous and only 18 Euros per person. This included appetizers (Jim and I both had the mortadella, thinly sliced, along with some wonderful chunks of parmesan cheese), for my entree I had the lasagna, which traditionally served in Bologna is with green pasta. The meat is their typical Bolognese sauce (or ragu). I could have gone back another night for that dish!! Others has rabbit with potatoes, another had tortellini with butter and sage, and I don't remember the rest of the dishes. We had a nice amount of wine, coffee, etc. So this place was a wonderful deal for the quality of the food.

Wednesday was spent in Ravenna, where there are some beautiful mosaics in the churches. I went to Pam and Gary's hotel and we took the train to Ravenna. I had printed out the various schedules back home and apparently there was a mistake. Our connecting train in Faenza was actually a bus! We had to wait almost an hour for the bus, and then it was about at 45 minute ride. The area is quite lovely with lots of many beautiful homes. I saw a few I wouldn't mind living in. Although we arrived in Ravenna later than planned, we were able to see all the sights in Ravenna, and have a great lunch at Ristorante Garadela. I had the tortellini which was stuffed with ricotta cheese, spinach and seved with a creamy tomato sauce. We all ordered a primi and secondo. Big mistake as this place serves huges portions! Both Pam and I ordered the mixed fried calamari, shrimp and zucchini slices. Excellent and again, a large portion. Gary had grilled salmon. I will be posting these food photos when I return. With a liter of wine and also water, our meal came to 20 euros each.

The moasics are incredible! My book guided us to various sights. However, we went into Santo Francesco and saw an area where a crypt is, which is under water! It is permanetly submerged. In the clear water are goldfish! I am surprised this place was not in my book, nor in the Frommers guide.

Ravenna is lovely with small pedestrian streets. Our feet did ache after a while because of the cobbled stones. We took the 5.35 train back to Bologna and parted.

Back in the room I packed a little, had some of my wine, and then had dinner at Il Portico. Good dinner: I had the best bufalo mozzarela in the world! It must have been made that every afternoon. My entree was good: Bucatini alla' Amatriciana, which has onions bacon in a red sauce.

Well, I better go. I hope that you have been enjoying my journals. I'm glad to be in touch with everyone.

Ciao,

Monica

Monica,

Thanks for writing and sharing your journals. I have enjoyed reading them and look forward to more from you as your journey continues.

Enjoy your trip!

I am curious about this ATM thing. You mentioned both ATM cards: at least one that did not work initially was BofA. What was the other one? You also mentioned three banks; is it the third one who issued your credit card you couldn't use in Chianti? Did you have to do anything to make it work again? I also have BofA, and I am getting nervous.

Your experience reinforces my belief that I should continue to travel with some Euro in hand before arrival in spite of bad exchange rates as well as many postings stating never having any ATM problems.

Hi Monica,

We were really eager to read about Ravenna as we will have our first visit there in October...thanks for sharing your day. It is wonderful to be along on your trip...we can almost taste the wine....have a beautiful day!

Sandy

Reading about the ATM thing, I am inspired NOT To count on it as a source of funds in Europe. What good is a favorable exchange rate if it is only theoretical. Not having the funds you need while away would be a trip spoiler for me. And as our trips are usually packed with things to do (i.e. every trip is the trip of a lifetime), the time spent straightening it out is too precious. Once I had to call the credit card co collect to get them to authorize the charges from Austria (even though they had been informed of the upcoming travel) --a very minor hassle but enough for me. At least then I had travelers checks as back-up. Who needs the hassle?

Monica, see you in barely 48 hours! We'll be having a drink on some rooftop terrace in Venice. yippee!

Victoria, I wouldn't worry too much but I'd definitely take a backup credit card. I've never had an ATM issue overseas and knock on wood it won't happen. Monica's had a string of bad luck and take heed but don't worry too much.

Hello Monica (and Beth and Sandy, my fellow DC area Fodorites!), It is so wonderful to read about your travels while you are there. I feel like I'm with you on your journey as you provide us with the wonderful descriptions of the wonderful things you are seeing. Have a glass of wine and limoncello for me! Can't wait to see pictures and share stories when you return. Louisa

Hi Louisa,

Will you consider posting your recent adventures??? I know we'd love to read about them.....

Sandy

Hi Sandy, Yes, definitely, I'm just not nearly as organized as Monica! This site was so helpful in planning my trip that I'd like to share any information that may be helpful to others. Especially driving (and surviving) to Cinque Terra. Louisa

Monica,

I'm am really enjoying your report. You are visiting places I've yet to visit in bella Italia and I feel like I'm right there with you.

Please do have a glass of vino for me and keep it coming!

Ciao everyone,

It is quite hot today. I arrived in Parma yesterday to a hazy and hot day. My alergies kicked in, the first time on this trip.

I arrived in Parma at 12:23pm from Bologna taking the Regionale train. It was only an hour ride from Bologna. I waited for Ernesto to show up but... I ended up calling him about 45 minutes after I arrived. He forgot about me! He arrived quickly with many apologies. He had been home for lunch -their usual 2 hour siesta.

After dropping the luggage off at his place and meeting Santy his fiance, we drove into the city. He lives just on the outskirts of the center of town, but only a20-25 minute walk. He dropped me off so I could do my touring while he went back to work.

Parma is a beautiful city wtih many small streets. It is very clean too. As I walked to the center of town, I bought some pistachio gelato and it was wonderful. That happened to be my lunch since it was in the late afternoon.

I toured the baptistery (fabulous), the Duomo, and a museum next door. I enjoyed a glass of wine and wrote a few postcards at a cafe. Ernesto had me walk to one area of town to pick me up. We met up and walked to a cafe for drinks. He was nice to take a few hours off from work to spend time wtih me. He normally works till 8-9pm. They eat every late and get up very early. He also works 1/2 days on Saturday

Dinner was great last night and of course, I couldn't pay. I tried! Even when Ernesto and I were having our drinks, he wouldn't let me pay. I was getting up to go to the restroom and he said "Don't pay." He said that to me again today at lunch. For dinner we went to a tiny trattoria. He didn't ask for menus but ordered his favorites. We started with a large platter of mixed meats: proscuitto, salami,and other meats. Then for my entree I had a type of tortellini stuffed with ricotta and spinach in a butter sauce. The pasta must have been made that morning. Santy and I had cookies for dessert. I will have to ask her for the name of them.

This morning after Ernesto and Santy went to work (she on a bike as most people do in Parma), I walked out to the market in the center area. I saw lots of neat things and some wonderful meats and cheese.

I spent the rest of the morning visiting the archeological museum (2euros) and the teatre Farnese, a beautiful theatre built of wood. Apparently it was used only 8 times.

I met up wtih Ernesto and Santy for lunch and later walked around the Park Ducale, which is quite large.

I am now off to the house to shower and relax. I think this is the hottest day yet. I hope that Venice will be cooler,as it is on the water.

I am off to Venice tomorrow and hope to write one more time of my trip.

Ciao!

Monica

About my credit cards. I have a Bank of America Debit-credit card, a Credit union debit card and my USAA card. It seems that some atm machines will take my card and others won't. What's frustrating is that I travel to Europe about 2 times a year and never had any problemstaking money out and no problems with the amount I want to take out. Today I could take 120 euros from the credit union card and 250from BA. At least <i can get money but I don't want to use the atm machine too many times as I'll be charged that extra fee. Will definitely talk to the banks when I return.

I am enjoying lots of wine (lemoncello the other night)for everyone.

See you tomorrow flygirl!

Monica

Monica, this is a very useful report, as you have provided before.

We will be in Bologna for 2 nights in June. Is the walking tour you described easy to find? Do we need advance reservations and, assuming we do, should we make them from the US or after we arrive?

Thanks for your insights.

Hi everyone,

I have internet capabilities here at La Calcina, however, I have to stand up. I suppose they do not want me to be on it for a while. So, this will be short.

I am here in Venice, arrived on Saturday morning. Nice Euro Star train ride from Parma via Bologna. My last eveing with Ernesto and Santy was very nice - wonderful seafood dinner in Parma (will provide restaurant information when I get home). Ernesto drove me to the train station, which took only 15 minutes. Saturday's traffic was light.

I met a nice couple on board the train to Venice, who were day tripping from Florence (Jim and Carey). I gave them some information so they could try to enjoy as much of Venice in their 5 hour timeframe.

I took the 82 vaporetto to the Academia stop, taking lots of photos along the way. I think I have taken close to 1000 altogether.

I love being back in Venice!! I will give details later (Tony, my wireless keyboard is NOT working even after trying with the extra batteries I have - so much for computer technology in Europe. Will buy a journal if I find one).

I have spent my time so far visiting various areas of Venice, especially areas that are more residental. Yesterday, I enjoyed Dorsoduro, with very few tourists. I did my own walking tour from my hotel all the way to the train station.

I met up with Beth twice now for dinner and today after my 2 hour walking tour with one company I found, we will do a boat tour which should last about 1.5 hours, along with a nice glass of Prosecco! Maybe 2.

Well, I am off now, so this might be my last email...it's not fun standing here in this closet.

Ciao,

Monica

PS: jd_dalas, Bologna walking tour: just show up at the tourist office and pay at the end. It was 13 euros. If you go to the Bologna tourist web site there will be tour times and days. They do vary during the week.

Hi Monica,

Just enjoying every post, happy to be along for your travels..."hi" to Beth, please let her know I left her another winery on her post...hope you will continue to have a wonderful visit and maybe find the time for one more note...I don't want it to end!!

Sandy

Hi Monica,

Thanks so much for sharing your experiences on the road! Makes me think of my shortlived reporting days, live from the scene.

I think this is the last of your cities, no? If it is, have a safe trip back. If not, enjoy the remainder of your trip and hope to read more soon! :)

Yes, Venice is the last portion of my trip. I fly home on Thursday. Tomorrow I will have a tour of the Veneto hill towns, visiting Bassano del Grappa, Maristoca, Asolo and visit a vinyard for some prosecco.

Today was great, although my feet are killing me. Because of the hot sun, I do feel more worn out than the other days. Plus, I took the vaporetto 4 times plus my boat tour and when I stand still I feel like the floor is rocking.

Met up with a few people on the walking tour and boat tour. Very informative, although we sat at the back of the boat (a taxi) and had a hard time hearing the woman give her lecture. Make a note of that and stay to the front of the boat.

Well, I better get to my room so I can shower and have a few sips of limoncello.

I am sure I will be able to send one more message on Wednesday, my last full day in Venice.

Ciao!

Monica

Monica, I've been enjoying your reports (and it's giving me a touch of depression as I wish I were there)!!

I'm looking forward to checking out your pictures w/you in a few weeks!
:)