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Christmas in London (& Paris)
Hi there.. I'm an old Fodor's forum member.. and checking in for some travel assistance! My BFF and I are heading to London arriving next Sun. the 5th.. and staying until Friday and then taking Eurostar to Paris until Monday the 14th.. then flying back to US,, I've been to London several times but my friend has only been there once before and it may be her last as she is fighting pancreatic cancer.. we want this to be a memorable trip!! I've never to London during December and I've been reading online about London at Christmas so pretty familiar what the big events are.. it's just narrowing down the best.. I am a fan of London walks as well and love London Theatre..
So.. for those of you who are very familiar with London during the holidays.. what are your favorite things to do.. which Christmas markets, fairs, ice skating events etc. are your go to.. Also, what would you recommend for theatre right now? .. Looks like the Big shows are the same as in the states.. but also saw A Christmas Carol with Jim Broadbent.. the Snowman at the Peacock Theatre.. Elf.. as recommendations.. (now some are obviously more kid friendly but may be fun for adults).. Also.. affordable restaurants that are your favorites.. I noticed on Time Out that a vegetarian restaurant in Covent Gardens is #1 Jar Table or something.. forget the name already.. I love Cafe in the Crypt for meals before theatre.. and I liked Waxy O'Connors for a fun place to have a drink that last time my hubby and I were there last January.. I've seen Billy Elliott twice in London and loved it! Would go again.. So any personal recommendations for one week from now are welcome.. please help! I want to make this a special trip for my friend.. Thanks!!!!! . |
A very tourist thing, I suspect, but fun, is a visit to Harrod's Christmas decorations department. I don't go there for anything else, or at any other time of year, but it's fun to browse through the displays for tree ornaments, a wide selection, some of which are very reasonably priced. They make nice gifts for those with a Christmas fetish, and are small to carry home.
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Buying roasted chestnuts. There's usually someone selling them in front of the British Museum.
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Temporary skating rinks at Somerset Hose and Natural History Museum.
Decorations and gifts at Libertys. Decorations and lights along Oxford and Regent Streets. See also: http://www.visitlondon.com/things-to...s-on/christmas |
I haven't been to check recently, but the Christmas decorations in the little streets around Seven Dials and Covent Garden may also be worth a look.
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Have you been to a Pantomime?
They are perhaps the quintessential Christmas experience in the UK. |
Yes, panto. They will just be starting when you're here. I rather think the one at Wilton's will be a bit special:
http://www.timeout.com/london/theatr...imes-in-london |
I see Elvis's widow is in panto in Milton Keynes, a bit far perhaps.
http://www.timeout.com/london/theatr...imes-in-london http://www.bigpantoguide.co.uk/london.php |
Liberty's window and shop is worth a walk by
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Forgot, the Geffrye Museum: http://www.geffrye-museum.org.uk/
If you're not familiar with the Geffrye, it is a set of former alms houses furnished in successive periods. Originally set up as a learning tool for local furniture makers. At Christmas they decorate the rooms in period. Has a cafe. And if you go over to that part of London and haven't been, consider the Dennis Severs House: http://www.dennissevershouse.co.uk/ You'll want an evening tour and you'll need a reservation. Looks like they will also have Christmas decorations. |
And another...
My last trip to London I finally made it to Leighton House, and just loved it. I see that they are having an evening of Christmas music the Wednesday you'll be in town: https://www.rbkc.gov.uk/subsites/mus...terevents.aspx And now would probably be a good time to go to Evensong in one of the big churches - it's how you get into Westminster Cathedral or St. Paul's for free. |
Time outs for tea. How is her strength? Maybe even the hop on hop off bus so she doesn't have to walk that much.
Love Jim Broadbent. I agree on Harrods. Hoping you make all her wishes magical. |
The problem w/ Harrods is it will be absolutely slammed. It gets so busy tfl often has to close that Knightsbridge tube station exit for crowd control. Very difficult if she is at all tired or unsteady on her feet and not easy for anyone . . .
The panto at Wilton's would be fun, or they are doing Cinderella at the Lyric Hammersmith which is directly across from the tube station so very easy. |
We were in London a few years ago & really enjoyed the Christmas sing along at the Royal Albert Hall.
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<i>They are perhaps the quintessential Christmas experience in the UK.</i>
Oh no they aren't. :-D |
Behind you!
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Ah, if there's a mobility problem in play, then Wilton's might not be the best idea. It's quite a walk from public transport, and has a fair amount of awkward changes of level inside (indeed IIRC the loos are upstairs),
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I didn't assume there <i>are</i> mobility issues -- but since you mentioned her health problems just wanted to give you a heads up.
Patrick is right re Wilton's . . . I actually booked Boxing Day there but that's the day I arrive so depending on how I survive (or don't) the flights I might 'eat' my ticket. I'm staying walking distance from Wilton's but it is a bit of a slog from some parts of the city. |
Thank you all for your great comments!! I'm sorry I haven't checked in in a few days.. had a bunch of people here for Thanksgiving so back to trip planning.. love your ideas.. My friend, so far has been very mobile except after her chemo treatments and she is very tired the week after.. this morning she is having a CAT scan to see what progress she has made.. she's coming up on her year anniversary and has done amazingly well considering the original prognosis.. She is ready to do some walking so we hope to do a fair amt. in..
I love the pantomime idea.. never thought of that.. so plan to check out Wiltons & try to get tickets.... also love the roasted chestnuts..how festive and English!! Cinderella & Sing along at Royal Albert.. looking both up! Leighton Hall on Wed.. Also.. always wanted to go to Geffryes Museum.. how about Sir John Soames Museum.. I'll look up Dennis Severs house.. Thanks for mentioning Seven Dials.. any residential areas that have great lighting displays?? plan to go to Somerset House & of course Oxford and Regent.. Libertys.. & Harrods.. despite the crowds.. we plan to go full tilt until we drop! I get afternoon teas website online.. but any recommendations for reasonable teas.. we are trying to be cost conscious.. Has anyone been to Jar Kitchen? Any other affordable restaurant recommendations? I love getting tips from the locals and well travelled!! Thanks all.. much appreciated |
FYI.. Just got 2 tickets for Wed matinee.. front row at Wilton's Music Hall.. Thanks so much for recommending!!
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At front you will not get any sweets, but you might get asked to go on stage.
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I was thinking -- me -- I'm not brave enough for the front row ;)
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Afternoon tea - unless you insist on the whole nine yards, I do scone, jam and clotted cream at the V&A, where the tea rooms are a museum exhibit in their own right.
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The V&A tea rooms have just gone on my itinerary for the spring. It's been decades since I was there and one of my definites this time. Thanks, thursdaysd.
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The V&A dining rooms are lovely -- but it is a sort of high class cafeteria. Good food but not and 'actual afternoon tea' experience.
While the posh hotels (they ALL do afternoon teas) are from sorta expensive to very expensive, you can make it work even on a budget. Say you go to one of the grand hotel teas (most run between £30 and £45) -- it actually replaces both lunch and dinner. Book for late (4:30 or 5PM-ish) and you get tea, champagne for an extra charge if you wish, a pretty much endless stream of 4 or 5 types of finger sandwiches, scones/clotted cream/preserves, and a variety of cakes. You wouldn't have lunch prior to having tea and if you book late enough you wouldn't need dinner either. So while it isn't necessary to do one of the posh hotel teas, it doesn't have to be an extravagance. Or . . . look at the Wolseley @ £10.75 (light tea) £25.50 (full tea) or £36 (champagne tea) https://www.thewolseley.com/afternoon-tea |
"You wouldn't have lunch prior to having tea"
Well, you might not, but there is NO way I could go from breakfast to 4:00 pm without eating! |
me neither, thursdaysd.
I like j's plan, but I think i might go for a light brunch followed by a late tea - with just a drink at "lunchtime". generally I find I accomplish more if I stop fairly regularly for some sort of refreshment; this is one of the biggest frustrations of holidaying with other people I find as everyone has different ideas of what a reasonable number of stops are, and how much to eat and drink. Acquaintances of my mother did take it rather far, she thought, by sharing one cup of tea between the two of them when they stopped for a mid-morning drink. |
You may well be familiar with it, but the London Transport website www.tfl.gov.uk is an excellent site for figuring out the best transport routes including all the bus stops for traveling around London. I think the bus might be a better option than tube as it can get very crowded on the escalators and some tube stations require a good deal of walking.
I'm with annhig on making as many tea stops as necessary for a bit of a rest. I frequently can manage three or four in a day and, no, I don't share my tea ;) but that's because I'm usually traveling solo. |
>>Well, you might not, but there is NO way I could go from breakfast to 4:00 pm without eating!<<
If I have a large typical cooked breakfast - eggs/toast/bacon/sausage/ grilled tomatoes/mushrooms, etc etc . . . I often don't eat lunch at all. But yes, if I just have a light breakfast -- 4PM is too long to wait for lunch. On days I'm planning on afternoon tea, I do have a cooked breakfast. |
For afternoon tea, check out the Richoux Tea Rooms. Plenty of food and not as expensive as the big hotels.
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At one time, I loved Richoux's but in recent years not so much. I would highly recommend Wolseley's for afternoon tea or even an excellent breakfast. Prices about the same as Richoux's but a much better experience IMO.
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The Christmas market on the south bank is good, I love the lights on Elizabeth Street and the Cubbit is a nice pub (not really pubish) for dinner on Elizabeth. Agree with the Wollesely for tea, and dinner is also reasonable for London. I always love the windows at Fortnum and Mason, and just down the street at Waterstones bookstore, they have a nice restaurant on the top floor for lunch...has a fun view over London and is a nice stop from shopping in that area. If you are around Bond Street at tea time, try Sotheby's. Not many tables, very quiet, and they have a good reasonably priced tea...also fun to sometimes over hear conversations about what people are trying to sell, or have just bought - It doesn't compare to the grand hotels but it does the trick if you're in the area. The shopping arcades are all beautifully decorated at Christmas also...3 good ones all in the vicinity of each other in Mayfair...I love London at Christmas
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I am taking notes on all your comments.. love the tea ideas.. we have all week to try different tea venues! It's so nice to hear from people who have done it all .. vs.. just out of a book recommendations or the internet.. Waterstones for lunch is definitely on the list as well as the V & A and Wollesely. Cubbit pub..Sotheby's..
Oh.. and I would love to have my friend be called up on stage from front row.. we plan to have a week of laughs and silly fun.. so that would be treat.. She's an amazing person.. and has not let her illness stop her from enjoying life.. there's actually more to her story.. her husband died of cancer 4 mos. before she was diagnosed.. and both were healthy individuals.. hiked, ate well.. etc. .. in early 60s.. so really tragic on all accounts.. and she's been my close friend for 15 years.. met her at my son's school bus stop! I've been to London 6 times counting.. actually was there this past January for a week..but always wanted to see it at Christmas.. we are headed to Paris the weekend after until Mond to see it lit up.. & she has never taken Eurostar.. I took my husband to see Billy Elliott in Jan because the last time I was there saw it and loved it.. would consider going again! Any other theatre recommendations for what is showing now.. |
How long are xmas windows up after Xmas?
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We just booked War Horse...been on for a long time, but never got around to seeing it...there's a new production of Les Liasons Dangereuses opening soon with an amazing cast that I also might book...think it opens Dec 10th. The Mikado is on if you like that. I did look at A Christmas Carol with Jim Broadbent, that could be fun to see. I arrive December 19th for 10 days...will be my 3rd trip for Christmas
Your friend sounds great...I'm sure you'll both have great memories of this trip, enjoy |
If you're on Piccadilly, pop in to Assouline, near Waterstones. Gorgeous shop, selling coffeetable books and some antiques. There's a small bar as well. Great place for a coffee or glas of wine.
And also on Piccadilly; The Ai Wei Wei exhibition at the Royal Academy is still on I think; highly recommend. My favorite place for afternoon tea is the Wallace Collection. The Wolseley as mentioned is good too. I'm not a fan of Richoux. |
newtome; Christmas decorations are dismantled pretty quickly after Christmas Day. Sales start on December 26; in the large department stores it's mayhem, with little Christmas spirit left. The lights and decorations in the streets stay up a little longer.
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