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Christmas food adventure in Uzes

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Christmas food adventure in Uzes

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Old Nov 30th, 2019, 12:14 AM
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Christmas food adventure in Uzes

This is my first ever post here so please forgive me if I get it wrong.

My wife and I will be spending a month in Uzes from 13 December 2019. We hope to become more embedded with the locals over time. Until then, we want to get to know the region during the different seasons and the nearby sights we should not miss - north, south, east and west. I had been thinking of the beautiful nature, activities and so on in the region. So any recommendations for that would be great!

But, what I would really love to do is to trace the ancestry of a recipe. My ideal is to follow a dish from a restaurant menu to plate (and eat it), back through the restaurant kitchen to see how it is cooked, then go visit the local suppliers of the ingredients and drinks. I would hope to see the pride, skill and care that goes into the production especially of organic produce.

Any suggestions of where I could do something like that and who might let me into their culinary world?
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Old Nov 30th, 2019, 03:56 AM
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Please...you are not going to get "embedded" in Uzès in December even if you are there for a month. No one will even notice you. They will be busy with family and friends and holidays. You'll just be embedded in whatever hotel or apartment or whatever you have chosen to live in. Might surprise you, but local people aren't waking up each morning thinking how cool it would be to meet a foreigner. You are feeding on romantic, unrealistic emotions.

How do you plan to get to know the region during "different seasons" if you're there for a month starting mid-December?

The notion of tracing the ancestry of a recipe is quaint...and dumb. You can't do this unless it's YOUR ancestry that's involved, and besides, loads and loads of well-known French vloggers like Julie of Les Carnets de Julie have already done this and done it really well. Besides, if you don't even know which recipes are unique to the history of Uzès or anywhere else you're traveling, who in the world would be interested? And one has to assume fluency in French and an uncanny ability to sway always-suspicious French people to make this happen

<<I would hope to see the pride, skill and care that goes into the production especially of organic produce.>>

Oh sorry but gag me. There's nothing uniquely heartwarming and teary about the way French people grow produce, raise animals, and so forth. Good people all over the world know how to do this and do it. Pride, skill, and care are obviously always part of it.

If I were you I'd just go to France and have a nice vacation and abandon these fantasies.
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Old Nov 30th, 2019, 05:53 AM
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This is not exactly what you are asking for, but read some of the reviews of Michelle's tour. She may be able to help you create a different version of what you are imagining. Worth checking into, given her local contacts -
https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attracti...Occitanie.html
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Old Nov 30th, 2019, 06:29 AM
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Wow!

Unfortunately, you may have spent a lot of time venting unnecessarily.

--Please...you are not going to get "embedded" in Uzès in December even if you are there for a month. No one will even notice you.--
I have been visiting Uzés for several years.

---They will be busy with family and friends and holidays.---
So will we. Many of them living in and around Uzés.

---You'll just be embedded in whatever hotel or apartment or whatever you have chosen to live in.---
No. I will be staying in my own home.

---Might surprise you, but local people aren't waking up each morning thinking how cool it would be to meet a foreigner. ---
I have lived in France since 1995 and have made many friends with people who welcome foreigners.

---You are feeding on romantic, unrealistic emotions.---
I love food, France and romance. They have helped to make my life rich and enjoyable.

---How do you plan to get to know the region during "different seasons" if you're there for a month starting mid-December?---
I am in Uzés at least once per month. I just happen to be spending a whole month there over the Christmas & New Year period.

---The notion of tracing the ancestry of a recipe is quaint...and dumb. You can't do this unless it's YOUR ancestry that's involved, and besides, loads and loads of well-known French vloggers like Julie of Les Carnets de Julie have already done this and done it really well. ---
So it is possible and not dumb then. I don't want to vlog. I just want the experience. Just like one might visit the vineyard of a wine one has enjoyed. Thanks for the Julie of Les Carnets de Julie tip. I will look out for her.

---Besides, if you don't even know which recipes are unique to the history of Uzès or anywhere else you're travelling, who in the world would be interested?---
I'm interested. You make an interesting point though... know I'd like to find out what the traditional recipes are for the Uzés region. Any suggestions?

---And one has to assume fluency in French... ---
Yes. I do have that, but it hasn't always been necessary. In fact, when I was less able to speak fluent french people were just as friendly and welcoming.

---...and an uncanny ability to sway always-suspicious French people to make this happen---
I have generally found French people to be warm and welcoming, just like people from many other countries.

<<I would hope to see the pride, skill and care that goes into the production especially of organic produce.>>

---Oh sorry but gag me. ---
...hmmm...

---There's nothing uniquely heartwarming and teary about the way French people grow produce, raise animals, and so forth. Good people all over the world know how to do this and do it. Pride, skill, and care are obviously always part of it.---
You are correct. That does happen all over the world. I would like to experience that where it happens in and around Uzés too.

---If I were you I'd just go to France and have a nice vacation and abandon these fantasies.---
You live you're life the way you wish, and I will live mine.
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Old Nov 30th, 2019, 06:32 AM
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Thank you starrs! Michelle seems to get excellent reviews. I will certainly get in touch.
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Old Nov 30th, 2019, 06:44 AM
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It sounds like she has a good network of local contacts and, based on the reviews, can customize experiences for people. Worth a try.

This is too far away and no longer available., but until a few years ago Julia Child's cookbook co-authors had a cooking school at her home, La Peetch. I had planned to go for a week, but didn't do it in time. They spent the mornings shopping, gathering, visiting the same markets, vendors, etc. that Julia Child used, cooked a big main meal and then the afternoons were free for sight-seeing on your own or relaxing at the home.

It's been sold, the new owners rent it out and/or offer cooking classes. Here's a link -
Courageous Cooking School ? La Peetch
I'm not sold on the new approach but I think with a bit of exploration you may be able to find contacts in addition to Michelle who may be able to help you create something close to what you are visualizing. Anyway, good luck! It sounds like a fabulous month! I'm envious but happy for you!

Edited to add - my point was, there definitely has been a market for people wanting authentic cooking/ exploring experiences in Provence. I hope you find a good match. I've read many a trip report by Fodorites who have included a half or full day cooking school on their trips. I think there's a way to do what you want to do, with a bit of exploring and investigating.

Last edited by starrs; Nov 30th, 2019 at 06:46 AM.
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Old Nov 30th, 2019, 07:00 AM
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Originally Posted by starrs
It sounds like she has a good network of local contacts and, based on the reviews, can customize experiences for people. Worth a try.

This is too far away and no longer available., but until a few years ago Julia Child's cookbook co-authors had a cooking school at her home, La Peetch. I had planned to go for a week, but didn't do it in time. They spent the mornings shopping, gathering, visiting the same markets, vendors, etc. that Julia Child used, cooked a big main meal and then the afternoons were free for sight-seeing on your own or relaxing at the home.

It's been sold, the new owners rent it out and/or offer cooking classes. Here's a link -
Courageous Cooking School ? La Peetch
I'm not sold on the new approach but I think with a bit of exploration you may be able to find contacts in addition to Michelle who may be able to help you create something close to what you are visualizing. Anyway, good luck! It sounds like a fabulous month! I'm envious but happy for you!

Edited to add - my point was, there definitely has been a market for people wanting authentic cooking/ exploring experiences in Provence. I hope you find a good match. I've read many a trip report by Fodorites who have included a half or full day cooking school on their trips. I think there's a way to do what you want to do, with a bit of exploring and investigating.
Thanks for the encouragement and reassurance.

There is a cooking class near Uzés that does a similar thing called Cook'n With Class . They take you shopping in the market and then you return to the classroom to cook what you have bought. Run by wonderful people. It's the exploring that I want though, not the class. I have already written to Michelle

Thanks again!
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Old Nov 30th, 2019, 07:14 AM
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If you had explained all that in your first post SCirq would not have ranted.
Good luck with finding what you are looking for and enjoy your month in Uzes.
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Old Nov 30th, 2019, 07:17 AM
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Andy, if you have so much knowledge about Uzès already, I simply do not understand why on earth you would post such a request on a travel forum full of foreigners. You should be posting on French food forums instead.
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Old Nov 30th, 2019, 07:20 AM
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You're welcome! I hope it works out!

I live in the midst of organic growers who supply the restaurants in the nearby city. In fact, the first moved here from Belgium and now her family runs the farm that first introduced - and supplied -the baby carrots and the other organic veggies to this area. I've become friends with one of the three women who started the first organic market in the city. Well, in the state over 20 years ago. My point being, it's a low key but tight knit network. I joined the state organic organization, mainly to hear one of my favorite authors give the keynote speech at their convention (at a nearby state park), and organic fruit and flower farmers were on me like "white on rice", trying to sign me up for the sponsored mentorhip program. I have the farm but am not ready to farm it. It can easily pass all organic certifications because no pesticides have been used on it in over 10 years. I wrote all that to say this - it sounds as if Michelle is creative enough and has enough contacts to be able to hook you up with locals that can help you. Even perhaps with someone that does not actually do the cooking classes, but is willing to help you investigate the origins of local dishes. As I write this, I'm also realizing I'm brainstorming on my own behalf. Edited to add; that same author does "old-fashioned" cooking classes in her south Georgia farmhouse as well as canning, etc. Old school "arts".

There's a nearby plantation that has been a variety of things - private club, wedding venue, B&B and a few years ago was in the organic farm stage. I stopped at a tiny country gas station and a man next to me called out - "Hey lady! Would you like some or-GAN-ic vegetables?!" , pronouncing the word like it was a foreign word. I said "Sure" and he handed me a wooden box with his day's share of that day's crop. I later talked to the owner of a local farm-to-market restaurant and they chuckled. Without any description, they knew who he was. Evidently he gives away his share almost every day. My guess is he has generations of forebears who gathered produce from that same land. Organic before "organic" was a thing.

Good luck! I hope it all works out. I hope Michelle can hook you up with someone, even if they aren't doing it on an official/ commercial basis. I think I need to talk to my friend about some ideas. She now rents out part of her farm as an airbnb. You've gotten the creative juices flowing! Thanks.

Last edited by starrs; Nov 30th, 2019 at 07:27 AM.
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Old Nov 30th, 2019, 08:46 AM
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I don't have any insights to share, but wanted to wish you well with your adventure! Please ignore those who responded so negatively.
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Old Nov 30th, 2019, 08:54 AM
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A place that came to mind for me is the very nice restaurant we ate at in Castillon-du-Gard about 20 minutes from Uzès, called L'AMPHITRYON. They actually have a second restaurant as well called Les Jarres which looks to be more focused on grilling.

The owner seemed really approachable and since they are in a much smaller village than Uzes it might be easier to spend some time with them there off hours for example.

https://restaurant-lamphitryon.ovh/
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Old Nov 30th, 2019, 10:06 AM
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I like your idea and I’m pretty sure you can make it happen.

I’ve seen the Carnets de Julie program on Uzes but didn’t remember any great recipes from that program, so I looked it up. The website says she learned to make brandade nîmoise, quail, and acacia (which I would call locust) flower beignets. Maybe one of those would interest you. They wouldn’t interest me, so I’d be looking up local specialties to see something that grabbed me more and then work on that, either finding producers, restaurant owners, or home cooks who’d be willing to spend a few hours with you.

Here’s a link to that program, or you can look up Carnets Julie Uzes on youtube.


Julie has a new series, Paysans d’aujourd’hui, and her latest Carnets program is from Colette’s home, which I look forward to seeing when somebody puts it on youtube.

Please let us know how things go.
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Old Nov 30th, 2019, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by hetismij2
If you had explained all that in your first post SCirq would not have ranted.
Good luck with finding what you are looking for and enjoy your month in Uzes.
Originally Posted by kerouac
Andy, if you have so much knowledge about Uzès already, I simply do not understand why on earth you would post such a request on a travel forum full of foreigners. You should be posting on French food forums instead.
I agree & support StCirq in her reaction to the original misleading post as it was also my own. My response in cases like this, though I've never seen one quite like this, is to completely lose interest.
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Old Nov 30th, 2019, 02:41 PM
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I follow this guy on Instagram. He might be able to help you.

https://www.instagram.com/cooknwithclass.uzes/
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Old Nov 30th, 2019, 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by AndyA01210
Unfortunately, you may have spent a lot of time venting unnecessarily.
I have been visiting Uzés for several years.
So will we. Many of them living in and around Uzés.
No. I will be staying in my own home.
I have lived in France since 1995 and have made many friends with people who welcome foreigners.
So, why are you asking people here about Uzès then.
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Old Nov 30th, 2019, 11:37 PM
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Originally Posted by kerouac
Andy, if you have so much knowledge about Uzès already, I simply do not understand why on earth you would post such a request on a travel forum full of foreigners. You should be posting on French food forums instead.
Good point. Maybe I should have.
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Old Dec 1st, 2019, 12:42 AM
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Julie seems to specialise is fromage.
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Old Dec 1st, 2019, 12:49 AM
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Originally Posted by jpie
A place that came to mind for me is the very nice restaurant we ate at in Castillon-du-Gard about 20 minutes from Uzès, called L'AMPHITRYON. They actually have a second restaurant as well called Les Jarres which looks to be more focused on grilling.

The owner seemed really approachable and since they are in a much smaller village than Uzes it might be easier to spend some time with them there off hours for example.

https://restaurant-lamphitryon.ovh/
Thanks jPie,

That is exactly the kind of restaurant I was thinking of. Did you ever try l'Artemis on the outskirts of Uzes? They used to list their local suppliers on their menu if I remember correctly. I believe they are temporarily closed. Do you know whether they may be opening again soon?*
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Old Dec 1st, 2019, 05:01 AM
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Your idea has encouraged me to make an effort next trip to see behind the scenes at a restaurant. I've been able to fulfill my interest in seeing a boulanger at work and have seen two chocolatiers at work, and we've seen crepes and galettes being made. We've seen the goat cheese--making process and we've watched a MOF in patisserie roll out puff pastry.

I've peeked into a restaurant kitchen or two, but I need to work up the nerve to ask for a good look.
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