Thanks so much, kelsey22. Each of these gifted artists produced moving works, but I agree. Van Gogh's work is just in another category. His use of color, the energy conveyed in each brush stroke, and his masterful control over line and composition are all extraordinary. There's a spiritual dimension to the work.

KL467 -- I appreciate your comments. Yes, I loved seeing Dance at Le Moulin. It's such a surreal experience to turn a corner in this museum and find yet another textbook masterpiece on the wall.

Day 5: Sept 12-- One must-see place on my list for Thursday was Polish Library Chopin room (from what I read, only open Thursday afternoons). The library is located on Ile Saint Louis, and since others had mentioned having difficulty finding it, I looked it up on Google maps before I left. I knew exactly where to find it.

Again, it was a drizzly morning, so I put on my layers (and my lovely invaluable trench coat) and set out for the Marais. I had no particular sight here in mind; I just wanted to experience the neighborhoods of the Marais and maybe stop at a Cafe (which I ended up not doing). I walked for what seemed like miles. My driver on Tuesday night had said explore the neighborhood of St. Paul, which I did. I enjoyed window shopping, but for some reason, just wasn't in the mood to buy or try on. (Later in the trip, my shopping instinct kicked in but only briefly). I just walked, observed, took pictures. Before I knew it (and unintentionally), I was at Place des Vosges. I recognized it immediately from my 2005 trip to Paris. And since my blistered foot was really hurting, I sat on a park bench and observed passers by and the grand architecture of the Place. I knew about the museum where Victor Hugo had once lived, but alas, I had to limit my visit to the park bench. Otherwise, I might not be able to visit the library, or make it back to my hotel. Next trip.

By noon, I had made it over to the Ile Saint Louis, which I missed on my last trip. My impression of the place was mixed. While the architecture is beautiful and quite upscale, the tourist shops selling little Eiffel Tower trinkets and the like, and just the preponderance of Americans there (as compared to the Marais) had me not wishing to return. I did stop for something to eat there. The restaurant I first picked was full, so I found a little crepe place run by two young Indian men. It was a good meal. Afterwards, I set off to find the famed Berthillon ice cream place. It turns out there are at least two Berthillon shops on the main street (one much smaller than the other). I asked the young woman which flavor was popular with locals. She said salted caramel, so I tried that, along with strawberry. I didn't care for the salty caramel, but was wowed by the strawberry. (a side note: Later in Arles, I would have blueberry ice cream that was equally good).

I made it to the Polish library at 1:45, but the sign on the door said open at 2:15. So I wandered some more (it was cold out) and came back to the library at 2:05. Someone saw me and let me in. He pointed to a staircase for the Chopin room. Lost on the landing, I found someone to ask where I could find the Chopin room. She led me to a little room with two tables, and I sat. She said the person in charge would arrive soon. It was an odd little arrangement. Finally, a young woman appeared, gave me some printouts in English regarding the exhibition, and said, "it's 6 Euro please." She unlocked the door to the room, and turned on the piped in speaker system of Chopin piano music.

The exhibition is quite small. It's in a room about the size of a child's bedroom. In the first case was a death mask, and my immediate impression was he was more beautiful and elegant than I had imagined. Also in the case was a drawing sketched by someone who had been in the room at his death.

After the first case, there was a chair belonging to the composer. It was a carved mahogany with red patterned upholstery. Since there were wheels on the bottom of the chair, I guessed it had been his desk chair. I longed to touch it, but didn't. Above the chair hung a very sad notice to the public regarding an upcoming sale of his furnishings just after his death. I would be interested to know who had purchased or kept this chair before the library acquired it.

The next case held a lock of Chopin's hair: He was blond! I was very surprised to see that. There was also a Playel piano in the room, said to have been played by Chopin (but it was not his piano).

Photography was forbidden here, as it was in just about every museum I visited in France. Things have really changed. Non-flash photography was allowed at the Orsay in 2005. I guess too many people who don't know how to turn the flash off on their cameras (or who don't care) made it necessary to move to the "no photography" policy.

After my visit here, I walked "home" to my hotel to rest my aching feet. I stopped at the boulangerie just up the street to purchase a sandwich and raspberry tart (which I would have later). It was times like this that I was glad I had a comfortable room. I could open the windows, hear the street noise below, and still feel "a part of it."

LateDayTraveler: I knew about the Delacroix Museum, and now wish I had put it on my list of places to see. I just knew my list was already long, but that would have been a very nice substitute (given my foot situation) for places that were further away. Delacroix and Chopin were very good friends. Chopin relied on him quite a bit. Delacroix painted Chopin and Sand together on one canvas, but the painting was mysteriously torn in two. The Chopin half now hangs in the Louvre. He also used Chopin's face as a model for in painting on the ceiling of the Palace du Luxembourg. It was Delacroix who didn't have a good word to say about Sand after the Chopin-Sand relationship was over.

I did some research. Delacroix had lived in that house in his later years, so Chopin, who died at 39, would not have visited there.

Great report - reading along.

I'll be in Paris again in December. After your comments about cold in September I wonder how I'll manage in December.

Thanks, margo_oz. It was unseasonably cold in Paris (starting my first full day there, Sept 11). I would highly recommend silk long sleeved thermal underwear from WinterSilks. I bought two and ended up sleeping in one with a long sleeved sleep top over it. Just too cold. The other one kept me warm on the coldest days, with a cashmere v neck over that (or cardigan) and sometimes an added lightweight fleece over all that and then the trench coat. Just bring lots of layers, plus gloves and a warm hat.

It was even colder and rainier in the Loire Valley. Many of the locals said, "if only you had been here a week ago" or "September is usually warm here."

Day 6: Sept 13 -- I had long planned to do the Friday Hemingway walk with Paris Walks (thanks again to LateDayTraveler for recommending it), and that day had finally arrived. I remember LDT saying that it's just 3 metro stops away. I asked Adrien at the front desk if he recommend I take the Metro to or just walk to Cardinal Lemoine. He said it would be about a 20 minute walk, or a short Metro ride. He printed a map and highlighted the route I should take, should I decide to walk. I had never used the Metro before, and after some of the articles I read just before leaving home about pickpockets in Metro stations, I wasn't sure I wanted to try it on my own. But when I saw the Odeon station (very close to the hotel), I decided to toss my fears. I descended quite a few steps, only to find out that entrance was for ticket holders only. When I came back up, I saw the entry for non-ticket holders, and people lined up at machines below. But I just didn't feel like descending/ climbing more steps, so I walked.

It turned out to be a very manageable walk to Cardinal Lemoine station. A group of people holding umbrellas had assembled and legendary Chris, the British Paris Walks guide was taking names and the 12 E fee for the walk. It was a large group, so one of his colleagues, an American fellow, appeared and he took half the group away to do the walk separately (in a different order) but I managed to stay with Chris, and so glad; he was outstanding (and also funny).

LateDayTraveler has given a detailed (and wonderful) account of this walk, and I can't really add to that except to say it exceeded my expectations.

I'll attempt a brief summary: We were admitted into the private courtyard and residential complex where James Joyce wrote Ulysses (security code needed for entry). Stories of Joyce, Hemingway and Sylvia Beach abounded. It was wonderful. We stopped at the shooting location of Midnight in Paris, where Gil sits on the church steps and is soon whisked away in a vintage Peugeot. Soon after, we were taken to the apartment complex where Hemingway lived with his first wife, Hadley Richardson, who is the narrator of the popular novel, Paris Wife. The tour ended near Rue Mouffetard market street, where we took a short walk (and where I ventured for a while after the tour, despite the rain). I have pictures of all these sites in my photo gallery (link above).

After the walk was over, I had worked up an appetite. It was about 1:00 as I strolled Rue Mouffetard. Stands selling food items abounded. I finally bought a small quiche, but it was not warm. I kept walking. I found the Luxembourg Gardens and decided to take a detour through it. There, at the entryway, were some Roma women with petitions. I didn't fall for it; When they spoke to me, I politely shook my head and kept walking. Soon, I was in an area with chairs overlooking the palace and grounds. Most of them were wet from the rain. I found one that was okay, so I sat for 10 minutes or so to rest my feet. I took one bite of the quiche, but put it away. It wasn't what I wanted. Remembering one of the restaurants I had wanted to try is close to Luxembourg Gardens, I pulled out my phone to check my CityMaps2Go App. I was very close to La Cuisine de Phillipe. I found the cute little restaurant on a narrow street just across from the north border of the gardens, and I was delighted that they were still serving lunch (though it was almost 2 PM. Madame indicated I would need to order quickly, but that it was okay. She seated me with a smile.

Stopping at this little gem of a restaurant for lunch was one of the best decisions I made this trip; and the meal is the best one I've had in years (certainly above and beyond anything else I had this entire trip!). I know they have at least one Michelin star because before I left home, I saw it listed in a Michelin guide (written in French, so I didn't buy).

Madame held the menu and explained the items (though she doesn't speak much English). She's just a lovely person. She runs the front while husband, chef Philippe, is the master of his kitchen. The food was outstanding. Since they specialize in soufflés I decided to start with the Mushroom soufflé followed by a main course of white fish, with asparagus, thin green beans, whipped white potatoes. For desert I ordered the chocolate soufflé. The meal, including one glass of red wine, was 27.50 E. What a find!

After that incredible culinary experience, and after snapping a few photos of the restaurant, I was on my way. It was just a seemingly short walk back to Rue Dauphine and my hotel. I was "done" for the day. I opened one window, propped up my feet and enjoyed British CNN after emailing my friends about my incredible "walk" and dining experience. Another successful day (despite the blister).

I just realized we stayed in the same hotel. Wasn't it a great location? I adored it!

Hi Kelsey, yes, really liked the both the location and French charm of Hotel Dauphine.

It is so nice to treat oneself when on a solo vacation. You hotel sounds perfect for that, especially when you were worn out from heavy-duty sightseeing!

Leely2 -- My hotel room was cozy and lovely with the wallpaper and matching drapes. I felt very comfortable relaxing there when I needed a break from walking. Also, the guys at the front desk were helpful and welcoming whenever I returned.

I meant to add, Leely2, thanks for your comment!

Susan001,

I am really enjoying tagging along on your Paris visit. Wow, you really got around. Sorry about your foot though. I am sure you were tired after doing both the Orangerie and Orsay in one day, which I also did but in reverse. Liked your practical advice about the vest. I had considered one myself but dismissed it.

I did not know that Delacroix and Chopin were friends, interesting. Delacroix’s house/museum is not far from the Dauphine as you observed. But we can never do it all!

So happy that you were not disappointed with the HEMINGWAY WALK by Paris Walks. Good for you, sticking by Chris. Again, because of MIDNIGHT IN PARIS, the walk is so popular. I hear what you are saying about the Metro – not easy! So by walking from the hotel to the Cardinal Lemonie stop where the tour started really made a long trek, eh? But well worth it. Sounds like a great lunch too.

So happy that both you and Kelsey22 were pleased with the Hotel Dauphine. I agree, just love a centrally located hotel to drop by and decompress in the course of the day.

Susan, obviously you did a great deal of preparation for this trip which certainly paid off. Really enjoying your descriptions and reflexions – merci….

LateDayTraveler -- Thank you for the kind words. I always enjoy hearing from you. Walking to the starting point of the Hemingway Walk was probably not the wisest thing I've done, but it seemed like a short walk, and I'll admit to being a bit Metro phobic (plus, all those stairs!! I also have a bit of knee pain). In the end, all worked out well. During the walk, we had a sit down stop inside the church. I sat again at Luxembourg, and then at the restaurant.

Yes, I did quite a bit of planning for this trip, but as we both remarked before my trip, it's hard to actually fulfill every plan. Weather, timing, blistered foot, and other things sometimes get in the way. I didn't get to the Rodin or Pere Lachase (two places I definitely planned to see) although I did visit the Rodin in '05, and some renovation is currently underway there.

Had I not gone on a day trip to Auvers-sur-Oise, I could have done everything planned, but so glad I went to the trouble to see Van Gogh's last town! More in my next post on that!

Glad to find this TR, susan001. Nice photos and TR.

More, please!

Thanks so much, TDudette! I'll be posting Day 7 later today.

We went to Auvers-sur-Oise last week and really enjoyed our short day there. It took us a while to find the correct place to purchase our tickets at Gare St Lazare so had to wait longer for the train then had a 25 minute wait in Pontoise. I'd like to go again as we didn't get to see everything we wanted to see...would definitely leave earlier in the morning.
We were fortunate to be the only people at the cemetery when we walked up there.

Just discovered your report, and so glad I did! You travel very much the same way I do, like the same kinds of things, and have the same mishaps (like the blister!). I also would ALWAYS get the single supplement while on a tour! I don't even want to room with family members or best friends. But I haven't had to cross that bridge yet, as I've succeeded so far in keeping my trips to Europe (mostly to France)solo, and mostly these have been independent trips. I love wandering on my own, and even driving in the various parts of France alone.

I'm looking forward to reading about the Rick Steves part of your trip. I'm afraid I might be getting too old now for my driving trips (and France is the only country I feel comfortable driving in, since I've done that a lot). Many years ago I did a Maupintour tour of Great Britain and one in Switzerland. Enjoyed them, but prefer being on my own, to stay in places longer, and see sites at my own pace.

Well, looking forward to your next installments.

Another Susan

Day 7: September 14 -- I woke up to pouring rain (again), but decided to pursue my plan to get up to Square d'Orleans. It's not a tourist site, and most are not familiar with it. My Paris Authentic night tour guide on Tuesday had said it's always locked, and that I would have to wait for a car to come through to gain entry (and then, I thought, how do I get out?).

I dressed warmly in layers, and set out to find a taxi stand. I had a map with me with all of them marked. I got to the first one, which was supposed to be across pont neuf on the right bank, but it was nowhere to be found (maybe due to construction going on), so I kept walking. My blistered foot was killing me, and the other foot wasn't feeling much better. I made it to a main boulevard, and decided to walk in the direction of the Louvre, to look for another taxi stand. It was pouring. My feet were in pain. I stopped. I looked at my map again, and remembering that Chris said there would be a Marais Walk (with Paris Walks) at 10:30 Saturday morning, I did an about-face and started walking toward the Marais. I was suddenly feeling the need for a guided walk (the scheduled guide was not Chris, but I assumed it would be a good tour at any rate). After walking about a block (still pouring rain, umbrella overhead), I stopped in my tracks. I thought to myself, "I've already walked all over the Marais, and while a tour would be informative, I really wanted to see Chopin's apartment at Square d'Orleans, and I'd had a tip it might be open on Saturday."

I turned around and walked in the direction of the Louvre. The other so-called taxi stand was only a bus stop. But I saw a taxi, then another, then another, and decided to follow the direction they were headed. YAY! I could see the taxi stand. Getting in the first one, I handed the driver the address (I came prepared): 80 rue Tailbout, in the 9th.

Before long, the taxi was pulling up to Square d'Orleans: THE DOUBLE DOORS WERE OPEN!! I was thrilled. I paid the driver (6.50 E -- worth every penny), and walked across the narrow street and through the portal. After I passed through the initial tunneled passageway, I entered a small open courtyard. Then I turned left to find an enclosed passageway, with a door on the left side, and a plaque to the left of the door. In French, "Frederic Chopin lived in this house from 1842 to 1849." I was transported back in time. My imagination took over as I could invasion a carriage pulling up under the elegant passageway (with sculpted facade above), and an elegantly dressed Chopin descending from the carriage, while keeping dry in the covered passageway, from carriage to front door. I was mesmerized. This had been a first-rate apartment in it's day.

I stood quietly, leaning against the wall opposite his apartment. I brought to mind his Nocturne #15 in F minor, which I've been playing, and let it play in my mind. I imagined him inside the unit, composing, playing, teaching, and exiting and entering this doorway. After snapping various photos of the apartment, I decided to venture out into the main square with fountain, in search of George Sand's apartment (her real name was Aurore Dupin Dudevant; George was her pen name).

Chopin and Sand lived separately in Paris to avoid scandal (even when they decided to leave for Malorca, off the coast of Spain, they traveled in separate carriages at different times to avoid gossip). Sand's apartment was in another covered passageway, across the square from Chopin's. Quite a convenient arrangement, I would say. They would have meals together in the evening, often joined by Delacroix and other writers, musicians, and artists.

I walked back across the square, past the fountain to the Chopin apartment. Someone -- a young woman in her 20s -- walked up to the door and pressed the intercom to one of the apartments. She was allowed access. I've watched just enough spy thrillers to want to sneak in behind her, but decided against that. I stood for awhile. In a few minutes, the young woman and another young woman descended through a different exit, and walked toward the main gate. I followed. At the gate, they stopped to exchange goodbyes, and after the first departed I said (to the woman who apparently lived there), "Excuse Moi. Parlez-vous Anglais?" "Yes," she said.

She was a young woman, perhaps age 26. I asked her if she knew anything about the original apartment. She indicated that the entire inside had been remodeled and reconfigured (I'm guessing more than once), and that no one really knows which area was Chopin's (I'm guessing he had the whole thing). "It's all different now," she explained, and she went on to say, "Many artist lived in this area." As I studied her face, I understood that she didn't really know much about Chopin, his background, his music. Nor did she seem to care. But she was nice enough. I said to her, "Listen to the Nocturnes; they are so beautiful." And, we parted ways. Did the thought of asking her if I could go into the building cross my mind? Yes, it did. But I could see that she was on her way to some destination, and decided to leave it at that.

The trash men were outside dumping the contents of the trash receptacles in their trucks, and putting the emptied bins just inside the entryway. And that's why the doors were open.

After taking a few photos of the exterior entry, I walked away, fully satisfied that I had experienced a little slice of a bygone era with one of the creative geniuses of the 19th century.

I started walking in the direction of St. Lazare train station. I had already printed a schedule for a trip to Auvers-sur-Oise. The Chopin visit had been a success; I was ready to go visit Van Gogh's bedroom and grave.

To be continued....

Hi Judy, I managed to see most of what I had wanted to see in Auvers; Getting there and back... was a PAIN. More in my next post on that! Thanks so much for commenting. I agree with you that it's a worthwhile place to visit.

Hi Sue4, Thanks for your kind words. I'm gearing up for car rental! After this trip, and the last one, I'm realizing that driving alone can't be as bad as schlepping bags on and off trains, or climbing flights of stairs to get to the platform. I love France, and in the rural portions, driving shouldn't be a problem, especially with a GPS. My next trip may be to UK, and I'm not sure about driving on the other side as a solo traveler. But I'm considering it. I agree wholeheartedly about the pace of tours not matching my own.

Susan001, what a great description of your experience at the Chopin residence. You really were transported. And that was wise of you to have the address written down en francaise for the taxi driver.

Very well done, looking forward to more...

Really enjoying your trip report Susan. We were in Bruges a year ago and loved it despite the tourists. Funny that we also had some issues getting there by train. We took the Eurostar from London but managed to get on the wrong train in Brussels thanks to wrong instructions from one of the information office employees. The conductor set us straight, just had to get off at one stop and hop on the next train.

Would love to hear more about your Paris hotel as our favorite has become too expensive. And finally, you toured in a 2CV! I fell in love when given a ride in one in England years ago. Don't know if DH could squeeze his long legs in one but we may have to try someday.

LateDayTraveler, thank you so much for the kind compliment. Yes, I was truly transported, due in large part to having read that moving biography of his life in Paris, and just the place itself. I typed up hotel addresses and a couple of addresses in Paris on one page and printed it before I left home, just in case I decided to take a taxi. It worked out well

Scootoir, Thank you for following along and for chiming in. I won't be returning to Belgium in the near future. I was frustrated several times by the lack of signage, incorrect information on the posted schedule, and just lack of personnel at the stations.

Hotel Dauphine is a small boutique hotel with cozy but charming rooms (at least mine was). I loved my room, the view, and the kindness of staff. The room was 221 E per night. Breakfast was an additional 12 E per day. I ate breakfast there 3 mornings, and elsewhere two days. I was quoted this rate (a little cheaper than advertised rate), and asked for a nice room facing over the street. They honored all my requests, and in the end, I was charged what they quoted me in the email. And I'm pretty sure this was an upgrade -- a superior room. The location of the hotel could not be better.

For anyone interested, here are the complete Chopin preludes (said to be the best version -- Ivo Pogorelich at piano). These were composed on the island of Majorca, off the coast of Spain:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zos7bwWHNpM

Here is Claudio Arrau playing Chopin's Nocturne 15:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9TOBWpdO-ws

Day 7: continued...

In about 10 or 15 minutes, I was at Gare St. Lazare, but made the mistake of waiting in the wrong ticket line (for long distance travelers); I was directed to another ticket window across the station for suburban travel. Ticket in hand, I raced to the platform as I only had a few minutes. The train to Pontoise was fine, though crowded. The problems began at Pontoise station (a northwestern suburb of Paris... about a 45 minute train ride). When I arrived, I couldn't find a sign that showed the train to Auvers. My printed schedule did not include this platform number. I knew I only had 10 minutes to find it. I raced up and down stairs looking, and finally waited at the ticket window, where the young woman didn't speak English. She managed to let me know the train had already left and the next one would be leaving in one hour near the white building on platform 11. That was a very long wait at this less than pleasant station. I bought a bottle of water from a vending machine, found a bench (but not near the platform) and began the long wait. I decided it would be better to stay off my feet. I wish I had brought my iPad mini for this excursion, so I would have access to my books stored there (Kindle App). Note to self: Always have reading material).

At last, the train to Auvers was arriving at platform 11. It's a very short 15 minute train ride. I probably should have looked for a taxi at Pontoise station.

At long last, the train pulled up to Auvers-sur-Oise. My first instinct was to turn right from the station, but I sensed this was not correct, so turned around, and pretty soon I spotted the town hall, the building made famous by Van Gogh's painting. I stopped to take several photos at various angles. They had a poster of the painting next to the site (I would see many many of these posters here in Auvers, as well as in the south of France). Finally I turned around, and was astounded to find the Auberge Ravoux right behind me -- the inn where Van Gogh rented a small room, and where he took his meals daily. Again, I was transported.

I could see there was no way to enter the restaurant from the front, so walked around the side through the garden. I found a newer wooden staircase in the back, and climbed it to find a gift shop and a woman who spoke English. She explained that in order to see Van Gogh's room, I would first need to purchase a ticket from the ticket window on the other side of the garden (obscured from view when I first walked in). So, I went and bought a ticket, came back and inquired about having lunch in the restaurant. She said "You still might be able to be seated." And, forgetting that French restaurants often close at 2:30, decided to first see Van Gogh's room. I was instructed to take yet another flight of stairs up. This looked like the original stairway -- very old with peeling paint and cracks in the plaster. I have a photo of it in my online gallery. When I got up to the room, I was soon joined by a young woman from Seoul, Korea. She was nice and wanted me to take her picture with her cell phone, which I did. I stood and pondered the little "shoebox" room with no plumbing, and no furniture, save a small wooden chair that had not been his (but looked like the one in his bedroom painting).

Then I went to the tiny room next door that had been decorated with a twin bed from the era, wash basin on a marble topped table, and lovely 19th century style yellow wallpaper. From this room one can go into a little darkened theater to view a video presentation about the artist (of which I recall very little).

After this, I went back downstairs and entered the restaurant from the doors at the back and was told it was too late to be seated for lunch. I would like to have had lunch there, as Van Gogh himself ate there, daily, but at least I had a chance to step inside.

I wandered out the back gate (after getting some directions from the ticket window person) and the little road behind the Ravoux Inn garden. Aside from the paved road, it all seemed much the way it would have been in Van Gogh's time: Stone walls, quaint little houses, and at last the church -- the one he had painted with such vibrant blue background -- the gothic church that practically (to quote Morely Safer) "jumps off the canvas." Yet another poster of his painting had been placed here at the back of the church, which I was photographing as the young Korean couple were making their way back from the cemetery. They offered to take my photo in front, and that picture is also in my online gallery. I moved on.

Soon I was in open fields with a narrow road down the middle, which probably had only been a path in Van Gogh's time. I'm sure he walked down this path many times, carrying canvases to and from the fields. Just as I arrived at the cemetery, I noticed another poster of one of his paintings of this field.

I entered the cemetery, knowing that he and Theo, buried side by side, were at one of the borders, and I decided to walk to the farthest end. Soon, I had found them: Simple matching tombstones with ivy growing over their graves. It was a moving experience (photo in my online gallery), and I timed it just right, as I was alone there. As I was leaving, a family with a young child were coming over.

I made the long walk back through the fields, through the village and down to the station, only to find out the next train to Pontoise would not be leaving for another 90 minutes!! Taxis were not available; I did inquire. I found a bench outside at the platform, and decided to return to the grocery store I had passed on the way to grab a sandwich. I returned with the sandwich. By now several others were waiting. I tried not to feel miserable and bored but it was cold and uncomfortable, though I certainly wore enough layers and had gloves. I slowly ate the sandwich.

At long last, the train arrived, and I was never so happy to see it. Soon, I was in Pontoise, easily found the platform for Paris -St. Lazare, and found a seat at the platform amidst the crowd, which included some VERY STRANGE young men (I decided later they must have been on their way to Montmartre to entertain the tourists). One was wearing a colorful top hat, while his friend took a lemming or gerbil from his pocket, and juggled a few iridescent balls. I made SURE I got on a different car than they did. However, what I got was WORSE. A fellow got on dressed in military fatigues and military boots, with long hair and a big patch over one eye. He was carrying a bright orange "hobo-type" bag. He walked up and down the car, and guess he couldn't find a seat, so he came back, opened the door to the place between cars, and SAT DOWN THERE, rolled a cigarette, and lit up. He also started doing strange things. I thought he was going to blow up the train, and I was actually worried! I saw concerned looks on other passenger's faces. I decided later, he was another Montmartre "entertainer," and now I know where they all live! What a train experience (that I don't wish to repeat)!

Auvers-sur-Oise is definitely a worthwhile visit for Van Gogh fans, but I might suggest driving there. It's only a 30-minute drive from Paris, and what a hassle by train!! I've heard there are direct trains, but only at certain times of the week (they are VERY infrequent).

At last, I had reached St. Lazare train station at the north end of Paris. It was POURING rain! After a little walking around some construction zones, I found the taxi stand, and was soon on my way to my hotel. I was never so glad to be snug in my room! I wouldn't emerge again until the next morning. And yes, my feet were killing me. The bed and the remote controlled TV were a comfort.

I forgot to include a very important detail: Van Gogh died from a gunshot wound in that little upstairs room I visited. Authors Naifeh and Smith theorize that he didn't shoot himself; instead, their research suggests a teenage boy borrowed the gun from the innkeeper at Auberge Ravoux and somehow, either accidentally or intentionally, the gun went off: The authors of the new biography contend it was not a suicide.

Susan, I always travel with a few of these:

http://www.walgreens.com/store/c/band-aid-advanced-healing-blister-cushions/ID=prod392263-product?ext=gooMedicines_ampersand_Treatments_PLA_ Adhesive_or_Liquid_Bandages_prod392263_pla&adtype= {adtype}&kpid=prod392263&sst=10164a74-d442-8468-d329-0000655e55c1

Betty-- Great idea. Thanks! I did bring moleskin, but this looks better. Will take on my next trip. I also bought a sewing it with needles, but for some reason, decided not to bring. A needle would have been very helpful!

I'm really enjoying your report, Susan, and your lovely photos.

On our Poland tour, we went to a Chopin piano recital performed by Maria Skurjat-Silva at the Raczynski Palace in Warsaw. She is quite well known and very talented.

http://dkubiak.smugmug.com/Travel/Tr...0082&k=mDxHVV3

Also, here is one of the photos David took of the Chopin statue in Warsaw:

http://dkubiak.smugmug.com/Travel/Tr...1338&k=VjrzqQz

Regarding the Deux Chevaux, when we lived in Vienna in 1983-84, we saw quite a few of them around town. The Austrians referred to them as Die Ente, the Duck, and then they would laugh!!

I'm really enjoying your report, Susan, and your lovely photos.

On our Poland tour, we went to a Chopin piano recital performed by Maria Skurjat-Silva at the Raczynski Palace in Warsaw. She is quite well known and very talented.

http://dkubiak.smugmug.com/Travel/Tr...0082&k=mDxHVV3

Also, here is one of the photos David took of the Chopin statue in Warsaw:

http://dkubiak.smugmug.com/Travel/Tr...1338&k=VjrzqQz

Regarding the Deux Chevaux, when we lived in Vienna in 1983-84, we saw quite a few of them around town. The Austrians referred to them as Die Ente, the Duck, and then they would laugh!!

Oops, problem with the Fodor's website. Sorry for the double post.

Hi, Betty -- Thanks for the kind words, and no problem regarding the double post. The site has been freezing a bit lately.

Yes, those 2CV are so cute. Fun to ride in, too.

Thanks for sending these links.

Hi again Susan001,

I enjoyed following your journey to Auvers, something like that of a pilgrim, encountering many difficulties before arriving at the shrine. I had read before that getting there by public transportation was a challenge which obviously it is. Loved the description of Van Gogh’s room and the surrounding countryside where he painted during his last days. Wonderful.

I would suggest a short book for Van Gogh lovers – THE YELLOW HOUSE Van Gogh, Gaugin, and Nine Turbulent Weeks in Arles by Martin Gayford which poignantly relates Vincent’s troubled life shortly before his sojourn in Auvers. Much of it shows the strong bond between Vincent and his brother Theo who was such a support to him. Strange how Theo’s death followed so soon after that of his troubled brother. And to see their gravesites – that must have been special.

I can just picture you collapsing back at the Dauphine after such a trek. From the way you described your room, I think it was an upgrade. Mine was on a lower floor without a view (actually had a window on a tiny “courtyard.”) But no matter, I just loved the location. I probably mentioned before that it was suggested to me by a neighbor who stayed there a year before. Nothing like a word-of-mouth recommendation.

Also, BettyK, thanks for the great pics of Warsaw and the Chopin concerts…very interesting.

Enjoying your report immensely! And your photos are amazing. Thanks for sharing with this Paris deprived person! ;^)

Hi LateDayTraveler: Thank you for following along and for your comments.

About the hotel: I was pretty sure this was an upgrade. The shower-head holder was broken -- perhaps that's why they allowed me to have the room. No matter: I was thrilled to have it. The shower head worked find; I just had to hold it, as the fixture that would otherwise have held it was broken. I did not complain about this, and will not, because everything else was perfect, and I know the superior rooms can be 100 E more per night than what I paid.

I saw the location of The Yellow House in Arles this trip. An errant WWII bomb intended for the Roman bridge over the Rhone) demolished it. They have a poster standing nearby of Van Gogh's painting of the house, Standing at that location, I could see the house that stood behind (which he also painted) and the place where the Yellow House once stood. A cafe stands there now.

I will make a note of this book, and thanks for recommending it. I haven't gotten to this stage of his life in the biography I'm currently reading (which is quite long -- 800+ pages!).

ParisAmsterdam: Thanks so much for reading my report and for your kind comment regarding my photos. Aside from some bad weather and foot problems during the first part, this was a fulfilling trip experience.

Day 8: September 15 -- I woke up, looked out the window, and was surprised to find sunshine with fluffy white clouds!! Got myself ready, packed my suitcase, as I would be leaving today, and had breakfast downstairs (I decided after trying some local cafes, the hotel offers a reasonable breakfast). The front desk clerk graciously said yes to holding my luggage in a back room while I did some more wandering on this glorious day.

I decided to walk to St. Sulpice and experience at least part of the mass, which began at 10:30 (I left the hotel about this time). I walked into the foyer area, and lots of people (mostly tourists) were standing in the back area, so I was not alone. I am not catholic, but enjoyed the choir and the pipe organ very much. I stayed for about 15 or 20 minutes, and then quietly left to find a very large market going on in the square just outside. I didn't shop. Instead, I took photos, and then kept walking. I had no particular goal except to wander and take in the beautiful blue skies. Don't let anyone tell you photos are better on cloudy days. It simply isn't true. The sky goes white, and everything is dull. My Paris gallery is proof of this. The photos I took on this last day are so much better.

I wandered back over to the Seine and Nortre Dame to capture some more images of the area (with better weather), before finally heading back to the hotel. My goal was to get to the train station by 2:00 PM. I stopped at Starbucks, just because it was convenient, and ordered a latte to go and a sandwich to take on the train. Back at my hotel, the desk clerk called a taxi for me, brought my luggage out, and with only a 10 minute wait, I was off to Montparnesse station.

I decided to buy a first class ticket to Chartres rather than my usual 2nd class. I've decided it's WORTH IT to pay a little more for peace and quiet. I didn't have this option on the journey to and from Auvers, as they are all regional trains.

I managed to get on the 3:05 PM train for Chartres, and was there at the station after one hour.

Today was the day I would be joining a Rick Steves tour here in Chartres (I know, I know... this is probably an unpopular option on this forum, but at the time I booked, it seemed like a reasonable way to see the Loire Valley chateaux and the Dordogne (at least for an overview), in addition to Carcassonne.

The directions they sent were easy to follow, and the Hotel Chatelet was just a short 5 minute walk from the station. The tour meeting with the guide would be at 5 PM, so I had just enough time to unpack a few things, freshen up, and check my wifi access on my iPad Mini.

5:00: met the tour group of 23 Americans, half of them single women (unusual), and our guide for the first half of the tour, Christine. Following our meeting, she took us on a short walk around the cathedral and through the village, ending at the restaurant where we would have our first included meal. It was actually good (and ended up being one of the better meals we had), followed by a walk over to see the TREMENDOUS light show projected onto the cathedral. I have photos of this in my online gallery:

Chartres photos:
http://www.pbase.com/scbowen/chartres

"half of them single women (unusual)" - my first RS tour, France in 1998 (with Patrick), was the same. I've only been on one tour where I was the only single.

Hi thursdaysd: Other people on my tour who had done several of these, said there are always at least a couple of singles (sometimes a few) but 13 is unusual. 4 of us had single supplements, 4 women shared, 2 came as friends and shared a room, 2 were sisters and shared a room, and one single guy who always had his own room. (I guess that makes more than half of the group single).

I've told my husband about your report and how I will have many surprises for him on our next trip to Paris (the Chopin locations). :)

On my four RS tours, most people came with at least one other person. There were usually only about two on each tour that came alone. All tours are different. I had two wonderful groups, one average group, and one group that I barely remember.

KL467: so glad you will be visiting some of the Chopin places. There's also his tomb at Pere Lachase, which I didn't get to this time. Interesting note: Sand's son-in-law with whom she broke all ties (fist fight between them!) did the sculpture above Chopin's tomb.