butnotrmpt

In one month we leave for our trip to Venice (4 nights), Florence (5 nights including 2 day trips into the countryside), and Rome (4 nights), our first trip to Europe in over 30 years. We arrive in the mid morning - we are staying at Locanda Orseolo. I expect major issues with jet lag on that first day. My DH is my 'reluctant travel partner', and I am trying to customize this trip to his "I don't want to travel" level. That means leisurely days, no early morning wake ups, and just a few select sights - museums - churches. I'm hoping that all of Fodors helpers will provide me with lists of 3 of their favorite things to do and see in Venice, in each category. Hints about what stops should be grouped together would be much welcome.

Thanks for your help.

suze

While I love to travel, I hate itineraries and formal "sight-seeing". Here's my 3:

San Marcos square
the Rialto bridge
vaporetto ride on the Grand Canal

I've been there twice for 5 days each time, and mostly I just wander around aimlessly.

AllieNC

To prepare for Venice, immediately read "The City of Falling Angels," by John Berendt. Your reluctant husband will love it, too. It is a wonderful book and a great introduction to the intrigue of present-day, non-tourist Venice. After you read the book, you'll have a list of places you'll want to see.

lostinplace

Santa Maria della Salute is one of my favorite churches in Venice. Cross the Accademia bridge to get to it or take a vaporetto. Of course, most people also see St. Mark's and the Doges Palace.

In Florence, climb into Brunelleschi's magnificently designed dome at Santa Maria del Fiore. There' also San Lorenzo, the Medici chapels and the tombs of Lorenzo & Giuliano Medici by Michelangelo.

The Loggia dei Lanzi is a great place to enjoy sculpture, people watch, and relax during the hot afternoon.

In Rome, the Pantheon, Spanish Steps, Trevi Fountain and Piazza Navonna can easily be seen in an afternoon. Again, climb to the top of St. Peters for great views.

Seriously, get this guy out early in the morning. It's incredible to see these cities come alive, it's cooler, and you avoid the crowds, making your experience much more enjoyable.

One of my favorite memories is reaching the top of the Duomo in Florence one morning to see the fog hanging over the Arno valley and the sun slowly rising over Tuscany.

KTtravel

I think San Marco Square (and going into the basilica, up the stairs and out onto the balcony), the Rialto Bridge and a peek at the Bridge of Sighs are musts. I've also always felt the need to do a gondola ride. Part of the fun of Venice is strolling about and getting lost exploring small streets, shops and canals. Venice is meant for leisurely strolling which works well with jet lag. I hope your DH becomes a "not so reluctant" travel partner!

MissPrism

Yes, I'd agree about turfing him out of bed early.

Places like St. Marks are so much better before the crowds arrive and you can see the busy morning Venice, vegetables and supplies being delivered to the hotels by boat, the fish market at its busiest etc.

Make sure that you have proper Italian lunches, at least two courses and take at least two hours over it ;-)

I love Venice
You can see some of my photos at http://sylvia.photoblog.me.uk/c421786.html
and http://sylvia.photoblog.me.uk/c554610.html

I can't wait to go back.

ira

Hi B,

Have you looked up Venice under "Destinations".

Ditto Suze.

As Truman Capote said, "Venice is a box of bonbons". It doesn't matter which one you pick.

julies

We were just there for 5 nights and frankly spent most of our time just wandering. Honestly, two months later I couldn't tell you the name of one church. I too was trying to balance out the itinerary for my husband. He really liked the Naval Museum (closes at 13:30 though). If he is reluctant, I'd say skip the typically crowded tourist areas and seek something else out instead. Do you like to walk? Get a book of walks so you can just enjoy the variious areas. This to me is much more the true spirit of Venice than the must see museums, churches etc.

butnotrmpt

To All - one of the reasons I set up the itinerary with Venice first was because I expected that this would be the most relaxing of the 3 city destinations. We do like to walk, and I look forward to the wandering that everyone describes as an integral part of a visit to Venice.

For those who say "roust him out of bed" - rather than that, I will probably get up early on my own at least one or two mornings, even if just to see St Marks Square without the crowds. I deliberately chose well located hotels so that I would feel comfortable on my own if he wants to sleep late or just bail out mid-day.

I'm also interested in seeing the Peggy Guggenheim. The contrast of modern art in a very old palace setting intrigues me.

I was looking for a copy of "Venice: Thirty Walks to Explore the City" but it is apparently out of print - even interlibrary loan couldn't find a copy for me. Does anyone have a recommendation for another guide of 'walks'?

Does anyone recommend the Secret Itineraries tour?

Looking forward to more lists of favorites.

julies

We did the Secret Itineraries tour. It was okay, but I wasn't overwhelmed. Guess that is not a glowing recommendation is it?

ita

my favorite church in Venice is St Georgio Maggiore across the canal from St. It is stunning in its simple Palladian style, a real contrast to St Marks. Also take the elevator to the top for a wonderful view.

jt7dreamz

yes. st georgio maggiore is stunning. my mom and i love to take the number 1 vaporetto and watch the city come alive eary in the morning. don't get sucked into expresso in the st marks square. we love walking the beach in lido (the shells are AMAZING). just wander.. and wander right. the food is amazing so make sure to get your fill and honestly we didnt have a bad meal even though we wandered and just ate at random restaurants. uiii im envious!!

florence- walking the ponte vecchio seemed silly but then i loved it. theres also a hill called michelangelos point which was fantastic and afforded great views of the city.

rome- colosseum. can't reiterate this enough. its stunning. and the vatican. the sheer monstrosity of the structure is amazing. double thumbs up if youre religious.

have a blast. enamore your husband with things he likes, breads, coffees, sports, something!! italy has it all.

Athena39

I have been to Venice twice . . . for a week each time . . . both times in March. I suggest that you must see the Bellini Madonna at the Santa Maria dei Frari church (Vaporetto stop San Toma). Most people go for Titian's Ascension, but the Bellini painting makes me cry.

This may be obvious, but I haven's seen it mentioned. Ride the vaporetto (either #1 or #82) the length of the Grand Canal. Get off and ride it back. The palazzos and churches that line the waterway are breathtakingly beautiful. If you get a chance, do it at night!

I hope you won't let your DH's lack of enthusiasm spoil your trip. I can't imagine going all the way to Europe just to sleep late!

bill_boy

While it does not posses the glitter and glitz of, say San Marco, I'll second the Santa Maria del Frari. We've been to Venice numerous times and this is always a must visit for us.

butnotrmpt

Athena39 - I can't either. But - he IS my travel partner, he has become more involved in the planning, and I want him to have a good time so that he will continue to travel with me. There are LOTS of places I want to travel to - I am hoping that Italy will just be the beginning. So I have compromised in some ways, while still getting much of the trip I want. And if he chooses to skip out on stuff that I then go to on my own - it will be his loss!

So - Julies - the Secret Itineraries tour was just so-so? I've seen some who loved it, and others who weren't impressed. I'm uncertain of whether to bother with it.

So far, my plan is to see at least one if not both of the churches recommended here, plus St Marks Sq and into the basilica (we are staying nearby), plus the Peggy Guggenheim, plus the vaporetto up and down the Grand Canal. No one has mentioned Murano (I think I could skip that) or Burano - which is more appealing to me. A show of hands on this one...? I have the afternoon and evening of the day we arrive (which we may end up sleeping through), plus 3 more full days. Oh - and I am NOT SHOPPING! I hate shopping when on vacation.

Thanks to all who have given me advice thus far.

Lexma90

Re DH sleeping in, I was going to suggest the very idea you've already had - using that early-morning time for walks on your own. I often do this on vacations, though as I'm a runner, I usually go for a morning run. It allows me to check out the neighborhood, people-watch when "real" people are out, going to work, taking their kids to school, and see the sights before the crowds have arrived. In Venice, I also stop at a little pastry shop near our hotel (me and the kids on their way to school) for a couple of small cookies to try. I love that time, and I admit I enjoy being out on my own.

We've been to Venice 4 times or so, and I have yet to visit the islands. Like you, I'm more interested in Burano, as well as Torcello, but you really can't get to either of those islands without visiting Murano first. And on each trip, I end up deciding that I'd rather spend my time wandering around Venice proper than "using up" 1/2 a day or so visiting the islands. (My DH doesn't really like boats, so he's just fine missing the islands.)

Try to not sleep too much on your first day. Instead, stay out in the sunlight and move around as much as possible. It will help your bodies adjust.

For our last trip, I tried to find the 30 Walks book before I went, and couldn't (I did buy a copy there, though, for our next trip). We did use, and enjoyed VERY much, J.G. Links' book "Venice for Pleasure." It's like going for a walk with a really gossipy neighbor. The maps aren't great, but the commentary is. Also wonderful are the copies of paintings of Venice that are found in the book - you can compare the view in the 1800's with the view today. It's a good way to explore the less-touristed areas, such as the Cannaregio and the outer reaches of Castello. Keep in mind, though, that Links is more interested in walking than going inside churches or museums, so if you decide to pop inside a church, make sure you have another guidebook that will tell you about what's inside!

Your to-do list for Venice is full enough already, but if you want ideas for short visits, Santa Maria dei Miracoli (probably not too far from your hotel, I think) is a GORGEOUS little church. I also really enjoyed the Scuola Grande di San Rocco, which is covered with huge paintings by Tintoretto, and Scuola di San Giorgio degli Schiavoni.

Ok, now for my three favorite things to do/see in Venice:

1. Wander around.
2. The mosaics in San Marco. To see them up close, go into the museum that's inside. I'm always amazed at how many people trudge through San Marco without looking up.
3. Wander around.

You get the idea...but here are others
- Try to stop by a large piazza that's a little out of the way, like San Polo. In the late afternoon or early evening, locals will be out, visiting each other, kids out with toys and bikes. Just sit at a bench and people-watch.
- Have a drink at a cafe on the grand canal near the Rialto. On a sunny afternoon, it's just perfect.
- Visit San Marco in the evening, when the orchestras are playing. Quite fun.

newretiree

We (my husband & I, and our 2 friends) thoroughly enjoyed the Secret Itineraries tour, and will happily do it again the next time we're in Venice (which, I hope, is very soon!). I agree with the wandering around suggestion - we thoroughly enjoyed all of our time wandering, and getting lost.

Enjoy your trip! It sounds like one I'm hoping to put together over the next couple of years - Venice, Rome, Florence.

Vttraveler

I highly recommend a trip to the lagoon island of Torcello, the "mother of Venice." The church of Santa Maria Assunta has magnificent Byzantine mosaics.
http://travel.nytimes.com/2006/02/19.../19dayout.html

I agree with other posters who have suggested San Giorgio Maggiore with its Palladian architecture and great views.

If you are really only going to visit 3 churches, San Marco is the obvious "must see."

For museums other than the Peggy Guggenheim I think it makes sense to go to a collection with works by an artist whose works you really enjoy. Some of the greatest artwork is in churches and the scuole (schools/fraternal organizations) Personally, I preferred the Giotto frescoes in the Cappella degli Scrovegni in Padova (a short train ride from Venice) to the works by Titian, Veronese and Tintoretto in Venice. For magnificent Tintoretto frescoes, go to the Scuola di San Rocco.

For sights, Piazza San Marco with the Doge's Palace (I covered San Marco itself in the church category), the Rialto and at least one trip down the Grand Canal. This doesn't really qualify as a top 3, but my husband and I enjoyed tracking down the curved staircase, the Contarini del Bovolo which is hidden in a small courtyard at the end of a narrow calle near Campo Manin.

I can sympathize with your trying to
accommodate a traveling companion who likes to sleep in. I am the only one in our family (husband, 2 kids) who likes to get up early. My husband did join me on some (fairly) early morning excursions in Rome last year.
I think your plan of staying in neighborhoods which you can explore yourself makes a lot of sense.

The Venice walking tour book you were asking about seems to be available on this website (but very expensive!)
http://www.libroco.it/cgi-bin/lista.cgi

wanderful

Two venues I would highly recommend:

• Madonna dell’Orto, the lovely Gothic church in the Cannaregio district of Venice where Tintoretto is buried and where you’ll find some of his masterpieces. It’s out of the way, peaceful, in a quieter part of the city.

• Scuola Grande di San Rocco, which is the middle of everything, and, to a great extent, is literally covered with Tintorettos. In one room, you’ll find his extraordinary Crucifixion. They often have classical concerts in the evening at San Rocco, in the hall where Tintorettos are all around you.

flygirl

I think you will find it very easy to go into more than 3 churches, you will pass many in your wanderings and if they are open, just pop inside.

I'd make an attempt to find and visit Santa Maria dei Miracoli. I would also visit SS. Giovanni e Paolo. For a special treat, get on a vaporetto to Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. It is very close - it will take maybe ten minutes to get there from St. Mark's and you can see the island from there. Take the elevator to the top of the Campanile and you will see Venice spread out before you. From there you can take note of how very huge SS. Giovanni e Paolo is!

I also heartily second Venice for Pleasure.

Have a great time - and I definitely recommend avoiding St. Mark's and the Rialto Bridge between 930 AM and roughly 5 PM. April might not be too bad, but for the last few visits I have had in May that is good advice.