| Paulo |
Nov 29th, 1999 07:25 AM |
The vaporetto stop referred to by Beth is the Ca' d'Oro. The alla Vedova is on the right corner, straight ahead across Strada Nuova. Othe good, relatively cheap osterie/restaurants are: <BR> - Rosticceria - Calle della Bissa, San Marco 5424 - Tel: 041/5223569 <BR> closed Monday - cc accepted <BR> - Taverna S. Trovaso - Fond. Priuli, Dorsoduro 1016 - Tel: 041/5203703 <BR> closed Monday - cc accepted - reservations essential <BR> - L'Incontro - Rio Terrą Canal, Dorsoduro 3062/a - Tel: 041/5222404 <BR> closed Monday - cc accpeted - reservations essential <BR> - Al Mascaron - C Lunga S M Formosa, Castello 5525 - Tel: 041/522-5995 <BR> closed Sunday - no cc - reservations essential <BR> <BR> The Rosticceria is one of our preferred places to have a quick lunch when near Rialto. There's a street level cafeteria with a few tables where you "see" what you order. Quick service and delicious food. Specialities are seppie (squid) con polenta, spaghetti alle vongole, three bacala dishes (different collours), mozzarelle in carrozza and <BR>arancini. There's also a restaurant upstairs, serving essentially the same dishes, but considerably more expensive. <BR>The San Trovaso has a cozy first floor dining room with wood paneling and brick vaults. The good food ranges from cotoletta and spezzatina to pizza and seafood. <BR>L'Incontro offers exquisite sardinian dishes like culingiones (big raviolis with saffron, ricotta, peccorino and flavoured with orange peel), Angus steak, wild duck, boar, etc. If the weather is ok you might sit outside and watch the movement of people in Campo Santa Margherita. I highly recommended this place. <BR>The Al Mascaron is also one of our preferred economic places. It's always very lively and crowded. The atmosphere is completely informal. It's one of the most popular osterie in town. Very good are the pasta dishes, with caparosoli (vongole), l'astese, col nero de sepe (squid ink). <BR> <BR>Finally, there are a couple of restaurants I use to go to when I was a student (with a big hunger and empty pockets <g>). These are the rather touristy Provoledo and Bella Venezia. Their touristic menus are nothing special, but are very cheap, generous and quite good (or was my hunger such that just about everything would be <BR>acceptable?) <BR> <BR>Bacari Tour - Before sitting down for dinner, we usually first go to a bacaro (wine bar) for a glass of wine and snacks and experience one of the interesting aspects of Venetian daily life. That's what thousands of Venetians do after work, from 6 to 7:30pm, before going home for dinner, where they meet with friends and have a chat. Eventually, we might go to several of these bacari, skipping dinner altogether. In the Veneto dialect, this is referred to as "andare a ombre e cicheti", or to tour a number of osterie and bacari tasting cicheti (small dishes of fish, ham, salami, etc.) and sipping ombra, a small glass of wine. One may choose bacari that are close to each other in the same sestiere or group bacari in different sestiere and make a long evening/night walk (Ombralunga). Though Rick Steves recommends such a tour (he's got a specific example) not many tourists do it ... it certainly is fun, though (and cheap). <BR>Pa
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