Chateauneuf du pape winetasting- which ones?
 

We'd like to visit Chateauneuf du Pape and do some tasting on a Sunday after spending the morning in Avignon. I know about Vieux Telegraphe and Beaucastel. Are these the ones to visit, or are they too Americanized? On our last trip to Sonoma, we really enjoyed the smaller, boutique wineries. It would be fun to find one of those while in France. Also, does anyone know if reservations are needed?

Along the road that leads up to Châteauneuf-du-Pape you will find a number of small vineyards. Just look for a tasting sign (dégustation de vins) and knock on the door. Often the proprietor will not speak much, if any, English but will be delighted to offer tastings. Just avoid the Provençal lunch hour, usually noon until 2:00 or even 3:00.

We stopped at one smll vineyard and were eventually greeted by the elderly proprietor, who came trotting out from his house. He used a pipette to draw wines from about 6 different barrels and was very happy when we bought a bottle, wrapping it in purple tissue paper and waving to us when we left.

Sunday, however, might be a problem, as in Provence many business owners take the day off and go out to a restaurant for a big family lunch.

In addition to Domaine Pegau, Chateau Rayas, Clos de Papes, La Nerthe, and Henri Bonneau, Beaucastel and Vieux Telegraphe produce some of the best CdP (both reds and whites) in the WHOLE WIDE WORLD. I know that I'm missing some names of other great domaines/chateaus that are in the same league as the above.

What exactly do you mean when you say tha Beaucastel and Vieux Telegraphe are Americanized?

Actually, we'll be there on a Friday. I don't know why I said Sunday. :-) Thanks for the suggestions. Bill- by "americanized" I guess I mean that they are in Fodors/Frommers guides and have websites in English. That's not necessarily a bad thing, of course, but probably not the most authentic small town French experience. Maybe we'll reserve ahead at one of those, then drive and stop without reservations at the smaller ones.

Just guessing based on fleeting acquaintance with Loire Valley vintners. It's with the smaller, less visitor oriented producers that it will be most important to make appointments, not the other way round. Whether the vintner or someone in his or her family speaks English may have as much to do with circumstances such as scholarship and/or residence abroad at some time in the past as with wine-business considerations.

I think you have posed an excellent question. With 180 wineries in this small area, where do you begin? I was recently (May 22) faced with the same problem but I was unwilling to commit to a firm set of appointments (req'd at Beaucastel & some others) and didn't know enough to be sure of where to go. Most people say "Just go into the center of town and it will be obvious." I tried that and it wasn't obvious although we did duck into a couple of pleasant enough caves.
Our best experience was through a recommendation to visit Cave du Verger des Papes at the top of the hill near the Chateau. We arrived without reservation and had an excellent flight of tastings from 7 or 8 different wineries. It was accompanied by a very knowledgable pourer who educated and entertained our group of four. We tried Saint Henri, Pierre Usseglio, Fortia, D. Bois Bousan, D. de Marcoux, Ch. la Nerthe as well as some muscats. Very enjoyable. Remember, a visit to a specific winery will give you access to just their own wines and frequently you feel obligated.
www.caveduverger.com Cheers, Paul

We had a very interesting tasting at Chateau Beaucastel. They don't sell their wines there though.

Paul,

You raise a good point about the upside of visiting a cave that offers tastings of more than one vintner's wines. In that case I suspect it's crucial to have a recommendation, as you did. The region we know best, near Sancerre on the east bank of the Loire, produces good whites (Pouilly fume, notably). Most of the wineries are small and family-run. A few are routinely open for tastings. There are occasional "open cave" weekends. But the worst Pouilly fume we've ever tasted was at the handy cooperative cave in Pouilly.

europhile,

It just doesn't sit well with me and I feel that it's unfair to the other English-speaking, wine-loving countries like England, Australia, Canada, and a host of other non French-speaking citizens all over the world, when you state that an English-version web site by French wineries is geared solely to Americans as you assumed it does. Please be a little more open-minded than that. Oh , and btw, I am an American.

Also, great producers like Beaucastel and Vieux Telegraphe, are not only recommended by Fodors/Frommers, but are also prominently mentioned and written-up in all the MAJOR wine books and publications all over the world. Perhaps, you'd change your mind about them if you are able to sample a great CdP from Beaucastel. Try their 1990 if you get a chance. Also, I find that Vieux Telegraphe's CdP Blanc 'La Crau" 2002 or 2003 are so well made that it'll make you forget about Chardonnay or other more common whites while sipping some.

There is also a nice chocolatier on the road to Chateauneuf du Pape.

where is the CdP area in relation to Burgundy?

South--in Provence.

We're thinking of visiting Provence in mid-April. It's not exactly off-season, but would the wineries mentioned above be open for visitors?

We arranged a tour of Beaucastel in March one year. I think that most of the places would be able to accomodate you if you arrange in advance.

If you are interested in these things, a 2003 Domaine du Pegau reserve cuvee just made the Wine Spectator list of Top 100 Wines of 2006..they ranked it as #5.

A most excellent wine, that 2003 Pegau Reservee! Get your hands on it and it will definitely change your perception of what a good CdP should be.

I'm lucky enough to be have been able to buy 1st tranche at cheap prices - still waiting on the bulk of my deliveries, though.

BTW, it's a very small family-run winery and advanced appointment is a must. Mdme. Laurence is very nice and very accomodaing.

Is there any chance that these wineries will be open on a Sunday in March (actually, it's Easter Sunday this year)? If not, do you think they'll be open on Monday? Also, I would love to know if anyone has specific details on the chocolate shop that Gretchen mentioned?

t

We recently visited the chocolate shop. It is called: Bernard Castelain..84230 Chateauneuf du Pape..it is on a main road and just about anyone can direct you...it is easy to find, but, outside of town.

Hi s r-k,

I don't have specific information, but I'd have thought that it was highly unlikely that there would be many caves open on easter sunday, though some might open in the morning if you're lucky.

all self-respecting french people will be at home /in the restaurant eating and drinking from lunch-time onwards.

the local tourist board office may be able to help. you can find it by googling chateau neuf du pape tourst board.

regards, ann