Note what FMT says above, buy both outbound and return tickets at the same time as they're good on any train running that route for 60 days. No need to wait until you're sure of what time you want to return. And because of this, don't forget to validate each way as PalenQ states.

You beat me to it Sidny. And one more point. There are no reservations on these trains so tickets don't sell out. Even if it's standing room only. However, I do the Paris-Chartres to Chartres-Paris run somewhat frequently and you'll always get a seat. You'll be heading to Chartres in the early part of the day while most people are heading to Paris. And then in the afternoon you'll be heading to Paris while most people are heading out of Paris. In other words, you'll always be going in the opposite direction of the rush hour commute.

having been to Chartres a few years ago, and St. Denis just 2 months ago, Chartres wins hands down. much more interesting cathedral, much nicer surroundings.

but if you do decide to venture up to St. Denis, definitely take the advice above and go to the Basilica stop on the metro, NOT the RER. you have to walk through a very dodgy area from either RER line which I wouldn't have fancied doing by myself or without a load of other rugby fans around.

the brasserie opposite the cathedral was fine for a casual lunch though.

annhig - the area around Saint-Denis basilica and Saint-Denis itself has been cleaned up greatly in the past decade - just think what it were like a few decades ago when I first went there - like Dresden after the war practically!

I really liked Chartres, the cathedral was beautiful and the town still has some narrow, medieval little streets and alleyways that are fun to walk through. There some nice restaurants and cafes. It makes for a wonderful daytrip, as everyone has said.

And as others have said, Saint Denis is more like a half-day visit to a outer area of Paris, as opposed to a proper day trip. I absolutely LOVED the Basilica though, and probably prefer it over Chartres cathedral. I loved the funeral statues, many of entire families, including children, which span many centuries- they are not in the basement as someone said but on the main level of the church, so you can still admire the architecture at the same time. Some of the statues bear the remains of the paint that would have originally adorned them, some have centuries old graffiti carved all over them.

Not many tourists venture to St Denis, I was there in April a few years ago and practically had the Basilica to myself.

As for the town, it gets a bad rep but I had a lot of fun walking around and exploring. It's a working class immigrant community, perhaps not beautiful or post-card charming, but certainly colourful, lively, and interesting. I loved the couple of hours I spent there. If you are female (and alone and an obvious tourist, like I was) you will get stared down by some of the men, but I never felt unsafe. I was hit on once or twice, but it wasn't threatening, just annoying. I went on a Saturday and there were a lot of families out.

Here are some of my photos of St Denis, both the town and the Basilica:

http://anyportinastorm.proboards.com...&page=1#134571

<< Note do not mistakenly think the word 'chartreuse' comes from some hues of colors in Chartres' cathedral glass! >>

No, you'd have to go much farther south for that! ;)

Glad to hear the OP has decided on Chartres. One of my favorite day trips from Paris! I never get tired of visiting the cathedral and town, or hearing Malcolm Miller make the stone and glass come alive. (He's gotten briefer and rather more crotchety with age, but the stories are always memorable. I still remember some of the facts I learned on my first tour with him over 20 years ago!)

We just returned from France a month ago, from a cruise on the Seine with Grand Circle and visited Chartres. We have not seen St. Denis. This is a particularly good time to visit Chartres, as they are well along into restorations, with some areas almost completed. I did a blog of the trip, with about 100 photos of Chartres, as well as many other churches and cathedrals. The blog is jackthetravelingman-seine.blogspot.com. They have some fantastic stained glass.

St Denis Cathedral is a gem but to appreciate it you need to be interested in what it uniquely offers.I lived in the area for two years ,it is no more dangerous and has no worse a record, than any other area of any major european city. Enjoy the experience.

Actually, Saint-Denis has the highest rate of violent crime in Europe but that's mostly due to gang activity in the housing projects, which doesn't affect the area around the Basilica.

I had almost the same experience in the St. Denis area as Apres_Londee described, i.e. I didn't feel unsafe, but I did feel like a total outsider. ALL men in the cafes, which I realize is still pretty common outside of big cities. It actually felt similar to the time a friend and I walked into a locals bar in West Virginia. I'm just sayin'... ;-)

The OP has decided already, but I'll also add my vote for Chartres for posterity's sake. I did enjoy St. Denis, though.

I didn't feel unsafe, but I did feel like a total outsider. ALL men in the cafes, which I realize is still pretty common outside of big cities. It actually felt similar to the time a friend and I walked into a locals bar in West Virginia. I'm just sayin'..>>

we walked up to the Basilica from the Stade de France RER B stop [just wanted to suss out the stadium too and find the entrance we'd need later on] and the first bit you walk through is pretty grim - I'm sure that if we'd had the nerve to walk into one of the bars, we'd have been looked at as if we had 2 heads. [a bit like when we walked into a bar in Prague that he been recommended by our taxi driver - pictures of Stalin in one corner and Havel in the other] but the Place opposite the Basilica was fine. We had lunch outside one of the brasseries, and it was quite reasonable - with lots of families and couples around.

when we walked back there were quite a few bars with flags and rugby ephemera on display and the atmosphere was a lot more friendly.

I'm sure the area is totally safe in the daytime and probably at night - just as others say a bit unnercing and very UN-Parisian in terms of ambience.

I don't think it's fair to say that St Denis is "un-Parisian". Paris has poor people, working class people, and immigrant people. I've walk through areas of Paris that were very similar to St Denis, including the slightly intimidating atmosphere of the St Denis side streets. But it was only in Paris where I saw a man buying drugs off the street in broad daylight with a little girl in tow.

And it's only the side streets in St Denis (or further away from the Basilica) where one might feel a bit intimidated. The main street and the square in front of the Basilica are NOT like that at all and one shouldn't even give it a second thought if they are thinking of visiting the Basilica. Safety will not be an issue, at least no more of an issue than it is anywhere else.

I did one of the Paris Walks at St. Denis several years ago - and it was wonderful, as the guide explained the history of the cathedral, the French royalty buried there, gothic architecture, etc. extremely well. However, I don't think they are doing that particular "walk" anymore. I can't imagine why they eliminated it - unless there wasn't enough interest. There were enough people the day I visited - but not mobs like in some of their other Walks.

But I concur with others here that Chartres is a more beautiful cathedral - and a great daytrip. However, the history at St. Denis is fascinating and well worth the visit, and doesn't take long to get there on the Metro. I would do both if you have the time.

Well I loved loved loved St Denis,, visited it 2 years ago. I thought it was absolutely magical,, and lovely and quiet, no crowds at all. The funeral memorials are on the main floor, but the crpyts are downstairs,, plus little Louis's heart!
I did stop and have lunch in the cafe directly opposite the cathederal across the square,, and put my Kobe down on the table for a moment while sorting through my purse, the waiter actually came to the table and told me to put it away as he said sometimes theives literally run by and grab valuables off tables.. so I do consider the area a bit sketchy,, but I visited it alone and didn't feel in any danger, but as another poster said, I did feel like I stuck out a bit.

Chartes, well I cannot offer too much of an opinion as I saw it many decades ago as a teenager,, and frankly at the time thought " nice glass, whoopee de doo" , a teenager who had perhaps been hauled to just one too many cathederals that summer, lol I think I will consider a visit back soon,, the town sounds nice,, ( which as a teenager who was on a long stay I really just recall seeing so many small towns that it didn't stand out to me as special) .. come to think of it, I took alot for granted as a teenager, lol