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Chartres
Train from Paris to Chartes, is this easy to accomplish? Is it easy to explore the town and cathedral on your own. Should we plan on a whole day?
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Hi Patty. It's a snap to go by train, but of course I cannot remember which station. If I can do it, anyone can. You'll be knocked out when you see the cathedral across the fields from your train window. You'll want to be there around noon (is that right, anyone?) for the guided tour of Malcolm somebody (another senior moment, sorry). Let me get out of here and leave the floor to a poster who has some information you can really use. J.
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Miller? :)
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Hi Miller, Thanks, I'm getting more confidence now. Your message gave me goose bumps.
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We are taking this very trip this June. I looked up the train fare and I think it was about 15 E one way, maybe less. I think the Gare Montparnasse is the right station, and there are trains that leave around 9-9:30, and take about an hour to get there. If you look on the sncf website, you will see. I looked this up about a month ago.
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I believe there are hourly trains from Gare Montparnasse. By all means, join Malcolm Miller, a fabulous English gent who is both scholarly and amusing. Enjoy! The town is very charming too, and they have great crepes and cider.
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Treesa, any places you would recommend for lunch?
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Chartes is a fun trip and the Malcolm Miller tour is really work the money. I believe he does 2 tours almost every day, morning and afternoon. You purchase your ticket in the cathedral. You could really do both tours if you are interested in the stained glass and its history. He bases which windows to include on the tour on the outside light. If I recall correctly, we left from Montparnasse station and it took a little over an hour to get there.
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Try to go on a sunny day. When we were there, it was very overcast and rainy, so the stained glass, while still incredible, looked a little dull. I think it would be much more beautiful on a nice day.
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Not only is it doable, it is great fun. Don't miss the Malcolm Miller tours, one is the am and one in the pm, as well as visiting the museum/conservatory of stained glass nearby and the house of "pique-assiette" entirely made of broken glass/pottery. A walk along the meandering river with its "lavoires" is really neat too.
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I have heard that stained glass actually shows up better on cloudy days. Chartres is incredible and be sure you arrive for one of Malcolm Miller's tours--around 10 in the morning and 2:45 in the aft. Cost is 10E.
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ttt
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I was in Chartres on a cloudy day and thought the stained glass was dull and it made the interior of Chartres even darker. I wished I'd seen it on a sunny day. Maybe some day I'll make it back when it's sunny to compare.
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A sunny day is much better, but sometimes Mother Nature does not give you that option.
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A pair of small binoculars or opera glasses are also a help.
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There are quite a few places near the cathedral where you could have lunch, from simple to fancy. Just wander around in the old part of town and read menus and make your choice.
The cathedral offers a separate tour (not given by Malcolm Miller) of the crypt and chapels beneath the church. You buy tickets at the bookstore/giftshop outside to the right and behind the cathedral, near the apse. |
I don't know if this is still true, but when I visited Chartres some years ago, we arrived by train from Paris around mid-day and found that the cathedral was closed until some hour later in the afternoon. I just recall having to occupy ourselves in town for a couple of hours & it was quite cold in the dead of winter & not so easy to find places that were open. But, the sun was out and the cathedral was glorious, once we got inside. Again, this mid-day closing may no longer take place, but it is worth checking the hours.
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Forgot to say that you could get by with 1/2 day, but 3/4 would be ideal, given the travel time to and from Paris. If I remember correctly, the trip takes about 45 minutes.
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When you're facing the cathedral, look just across the street that runs down the right hand side. On the corner is a nice little restaurant named, if I remember correctly, Le Serpente, or something similar. Inexpensive, tasty and convenient. We were there in June and sat outside. Bon appetit!
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