Chamonix in 3 weeks - Advice Needed
 

Going to Chamonix with a group in a few weeks. We're staying in Chamonix Centre at the Hotel Vallee Blanche. A few questions:

(1) What is the best airport (Geneva) transfer to Chamonix? There will be 8 of us, with ski equipment, arriving at roughly the same time on 4 different flights. Private door-to-door transfer is preferable. Any recs for reliable (and reasonable) companies?

(2) Suggestions for decent meals. Nothing too pricey. Regional food would be nice. We won't have a car.

(3) We are skiing 4 days -- any suggestions for activities on two half days of non-skiing? Aguille du Midi cable, Mers de Glace?

(4) What are the best-suited ski areas for solid blue-black skiiers? Never skiied Alps before.

(5) Nightlife - group of late-20s, early-30s, Londoners and New Yorkers, looking for good pubs and non.

Thanks in advance!

Why on earth do you want to drag your ski equipment all the way from the other side of the planet for four meagre days of skiing? There are tons of rental shops in Chamonix that would have done the trick. Anyway... As for "good pubs", don't worry, there are plenty around, since, for some reason, most overseas skiiers flock to Chamonix with its 3,000 truck a day highway en route to the Mont Blanc tunnel (nice little pollution cloud! ). So you are likely to hear more English or Japanese spoken than French. Even though, with the French school holidays in full swing, there will be enough of teenagers to fill the ski lift lines. FYI much better skiing (and more snow in these days of global warming) is to be found on the Tarentaise valley (Val d'Isère, Les Arcs, Val Thorens, etc. ).

No shortage of dining or nightlife options in Chamonix. Just wander pedestrian zone and you will likely find plenty restaurants and pubs from which to choose. Sorry, I can't remember too many specific placese, however the local Savoyarde cuisine (raclette, fondue, etc.) is very good and not too expensive at the more rustic places. Just about all places are within walking distance and have menus posted outside. As far as nightlife Wild Wallabies is where you will find mostly English speaking Aussies/Americans and can get pretty rowdy. There are a few good apres pub along the main pedestrian drag. Again, can't remember specifics but you can't miss them. Everything is close by.

I'd second the suggestion of leaving the skis at home. There are many places to rent quality gear and will make transfers much easier.

You probably know already, but the ski areas are very spread out in the Chamonix Valley and most are not connected by lift. While there is plenty of great skiing around, each resort is fairly limited in and of itself. Since you will not have a car, you must take a bus to and from each resort, as none are within walking distance from Chamonix with the exception of the Planpraz gondola to Brevant/Flegere which is a 10 minute walk up a steep hill from the centre of town.

The real reason to ski Chamonix is the Vallee Blanche. Depending on conditions, this route can be skied by solid interediate/advanced skiers. You need to hire a guide, which are among the best in the world and fairly reasonably priced IMO. You can hire a guide from the Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix right in town. If you tell them your level of skill they will let you know whether or not it is advisible for your group. Last time I was there it was still early in the season (early Jan.) and they advised us against it since my wife is more of an intermediate skier and the conditions were still somewhat sketchy in spots. They said in better conditions most intermediates would be fine as long as they are able to follow the guide's instructions.

Otherwise, Les Grandes Montets has the most challenging Pistes and generally best conditions due to altitude; Flegere and Le Brevant are connected by cable car giving these areas the most diversity, with Flegere having more beginner/intermediate terraine and Le Brevant a bit more challenging. Also, if the weather is bad in Chamonix, sometimes the sun can be out at Courmayuer in Italy just through the Mont Blanc tunnel. The skiing here is pleasant if none too challenging and the town is very enjoyable, though you would most likely need a car to get here.

If you have not skied the alps before, and in France in particular, be prepared for a lot of pushing and shoving to get on lifts, busses, etc. The French are good at a great many things, alas waiting on queues in not one of their strengths I'm afraid.

Be prepared for a near free-for-all getting on and off lifts and busses - at its worst boarding the busses right when the lifts close. Better to linger over a few cocktails while the crowds die down or leave an hour or so before the lifts close.

I'd consider renting a couple of cars with ski racks for the week vs. dealing with the bus system. It would probably cost the same or perhaps less that private round trip airport transfers. If you do rent cars, be sure and make arrangements to pick them up on the French area of GVA. It will likely be cheaper and you will not have to pay the for the Swiss road tax sticker as long as you do not drive on any Swiss highways.

If you get a clear day and are not skiing, the aguille du midi is a must. Exploring the town itself is worth a day or so. The winter sports/mountain climbing museum is interesting (forgot the name - ask around). With a car, I'd consider a trip to Italy via Mont Blanc tunnel. Courmayeur is worth a stop.

On a clear day taking the cable over the top of the Alps to Italy is spectacular

I don't think you can continue all the way to Italy in Winter, but the ride to Aguille du Midi is still well worth the trip on a clear day.

Actually seeking to avoid the typical rowdy aussie/brit pub scene. Anything more relaxed/local? How is Clubhouse?

I just bought new skis for this trip, so yes, while crazy, I am bringing them half way around the world.

Does it make sense to rent a car from the airport?

Yeah, Wallabies is not my style either, it's just one I happen to remember. I think Clubhouse is somehow affiliated with Milk & Honey in NYC (one in London too, I think). I've not been to the Clubhouse and I'm not sure if it works the same as Milk & Honey in NYC, however M & H is sort of like a speakeasy - they don't publish the address or phone number. The only way to get in is to be a member or know someone who has the number. You have to call ahead and get on the list. There is no sign and you have to get buzzed in. Once inside it is a pretty cool, laid back place. The cocktails are very good (and expensive) made with fresh ingredients and hand picked ice. Even though it is pretty small and intimate, people tend not to socialize among other groups too much and they actually have some rules including one prohibiting guys from introducing themselves to girls they don't know. Again, I don't know if clubhouse works the same way.

Anyway, there is a bit of everything within walking distance, from laid back lounges to dance clubs to rowdy beer pubs.

Funny, I did the same thing lugging my skis. It was my first trip since getting a new pair of Atomics and couldn't wait to try 'em out. When I got there, they had the exact pair in a local ski shop to demo for ~25 EUR per day. Really would have made life a lot easier had I left them home.

It is really easy to rent a car from the airport. Again, just make sure you arange to pick up the car on the French side rather than Swiss side as it will be cheaper.

There's also a ski bus from Geneva Airport to the French ski resorts, Chamonix included. See on www.gva.ch for other transportation options too. It's not a bad connection if the departure times of the bus are convenient; do book ahead if you want to use the bus.

We will be in Chamonix the week of the 23rd and have booked Cham-van to pick us up @ the airport in Geneva. We are a group of 7 arriving on four different airlines @ different times but very close and they were able to coordinate the pickup for us. We had tried a different company originally and they were non reponsive to our questions so we cancelled with them and went with Cham-van. They allow you to pay ahead of time or pay cash at the time of pickup. Here is link if you are interested. www.cham-van.com

We are planning on dogsledding as on off day activity. Also I have a listing of clubs, restaurants, bars etc that we received from the owner of the apartment we are renting. If you want to email me I can sent it to you. [email protected] This may be useful.

pam