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Chalon-sur-Saone Market or Tournus Cathedral?

Chalon-sur-Saone Market or Tournus Cathedral?

Old Mar 23rd, 2010, 12:46 PM
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Chalon-sur-Saone Market or Tournus Cathedral?

Departing Beaune early on a Sunday, does anyone have an opinion on whether it would be better to stop at the Sunday market in Chalon or the cathedral in Tournus on the way down to Perouges? Brancion, Chateau Cormatin and Cluny were also on the list as possible stops on the drive south to the Rhone. Is this too much? What would you recommend? I thought the market might be a good place to stop for picnic lunch supplies before making the rest of the trek.
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Old Mar 23rd, 2010, 01:20 PM
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Don't miss Cormatin !!! You'll see villages in Provence & the Dordogne that are more interesting than Brancion - but it is right on the way to Cormatin so it is probably worth a stop. We did not visit the Sunday market in Chalon nor Cluny nor the cathedral. I think you might see lots of markets in Beaune, Provence, & Bordeaux.

Stu Dudley
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Old Mar 23rd, 2010, 01:24 PM
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There is only one cathedral in Tournus and there are markets in all French towns. Even if you miss the market, you won't die of hunger in France on a Sunday morning.
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Old Mar 25th, 2010, 12:52 AM
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Abbeys are run by abbots, and cathedrals are seats of a bishop (seat = cathedra in Latin). Tournus has an abbey church, which as far as I know has never been a cathedral. The nearest (half) cathedral is in Mâcon; a run-down town, where the old cathedral is half destroyed. Knowing France quite well, and this area very well in particular, I must agree with Stu & Pv about the markets. There are certainly better and more interesting markets anywhere else in France, although Chalon has atmosphere. My suggestion would be (based on experience):
Option 1: Head from Beaune cross country to Cormatin, visit the château (guided tours only), buzz off to Cluny for lunch, a wonder around and the abbey and the town (don't miss the 3D film).
Option 2: Take the péage to Tournus (exit 27), visit the abbey. Drive cross country past Brancion (quick stop) and Chapaize (quick stop) to Cormatin, lunch there, visit the château, and head off to Cluny (see option 1).
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Old Mar 25th, 2010, 07:55 AM
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Thank you for the clarification and feedback, Cees. Some of the information I found on Tournus referred to St. Philbert as a Romanesque Cathedral when it is in fact a Burgundian Abbey.

Your options both look good. I seem to recall that the road to Cormatin runs right through Chapaize and next to the church, so that could indeed be a quick stop. Cluny, too, is smack-dab on the route heading back to the main road on the way south, so it makes sense to stop if we have the time and energy. I think I'll base the day on your Option No. 2 and just see how the timing plays out. Cormatin is the real focus that day and tacking Tournus and Cluny on to the ends works nicely.
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Old Mar 25th, 2010, 02:06 PM
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I agree, definitely see Cormatin. I really enjoyed Cluny for it's fantastic history and importance. Was disappointed not to get to Tournus (although I had planned to). Never enough time to do everything! I thought the Maconnais area was really beautiful. I stayed at a wonderful Chateau & Relais property called Chateau d'Ige. I loved the little scenic villages in that area, and just driving around.
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Old Mar 26th, 2010, 08:07 AM
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Sap:
Yes, you are right. The nice and winding road (D14) between Tournus and Cormatin skirts Brancion. there is a parking area 1/3 of a mile off the road, and the top of the village (no traffic allowed) is a walk of another 1/3 of a mile.
The D14 goes right past the church of Chapaize, another marvel of ramanesque architecture. Interestingly enough, the church of Chapaize did not fall under the jurisdiction of the Cluny abbey; it fell under the jurisdiction of the lords of Brancion. the Abbaye St. Philibert is another romanesque gem, together with the refactory of the abbey. not many people know it, because it is easily missed. At the entrance to the cloister, next to the main church entrance there is a possiblity to walk up to the height of the organ. The entrance to the towers is closed, but from this place you have a wonderful view down the nave of the church. There is a wonderful crypt as well, and there are some floor mosaics near the chapels past the choir. Both Tournus and Chapaize facades have Lombard decorations.
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