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davidheisel8789 Jun 9th, 2022 06:20 AM

Cathar Home Base
 
Hi there, thanks in advance for your help!
My wife and I are planning a trip to France this fall, and want to spend around a week in the Cathar region. I'm looking for a good home base that's relatively central to the major castles so we can make daytrips in various directions to each. We both are fans of staying in small villages, but would like it to be at least large enough for one or two restaurants and a small grocer or boulangerie. We're considering Quillan or Axat or possibly Duilhac-sous-Peyrepertuse as possible locations for staying in a gite, but I'm hoping to hear if there are any potential problems with those locations or maybe other possible places I've overlooked?
For an idea of what we're looking for -- when visiting the Dordogne valley, we stayed in Beynac-et-Cazenac. In the Luberon valley, we stayed in Bonnieux. Both villages were fantastic, but I'd prefer not to be much larger than Bonnieux was if we can for this trip.
Thanks again for any advice!

FTOttawa Jun 9th, 2022 02:07 PM

I’ll be interested to see what you find… Quillan has all the commercial services you want, Axat seemingly has a bakery and butcher; not so sure about Duilhac sous Peyrepertuse (pop. 146).
When we stayed in the Ariège, we realized belatedly that most of the Cathar castles except Montsegur and Roquefixade were too far for our taste in day visits, so we put Peyrepertuse etc on the “later” list.

rhon Jun 10th, 2022 01:36 AM

We stayed in Couiza and visited Peyrepertuse and Queribus from there but they were about 50 kms away. We did them on the same day. We also visited Carcassonne, Mirepoix, Camon amongst other places. A quick look at googlemaps shows places such as Lastours and Montsegur are similar distance. Quillan would probably be similar distance wise and I think is a larger town than Couiza which did have a boulangerie and a couple of restaurants and Intermarche supermarket nearby from memory. It is not really a touristy place but suited us. This was back in 2012. This is my report on our trip. Couiza is the second week and I neglected to label the regions .

https://www.fodors.com/community/eur...france-940392/

Bon voyage.

hetismij2 Jun 10th, 2022 02:35 AM

We stayed in a tiny village near St-Paul-de-Fenouillet which had everything we needed.

It is a lovely area, one I hope we will return to. I enjoyed visiting the Cathar castles, and photographing them!
We also visited a Roman aqueduct in Ansignon.
There are some good wineries in and around St Paul I recall.

chartley Jun 10th, 2022 03:22 AM

Have you considered Lagrasse? It has an abbey and old bridges over the Orbieu river, as well as several restaurants which receive good reviews. There are often things going on, with artists and potters living locally. Lagrasse is also well connected by road to sights in the area.

davidheisel8789 Jun 10th, 2022 04:26 AM

Thanks for all the advice so far!
I hadn't considered Couiza yet -- it certainly seems pretty central to the area though, with the sort of things we're looking for.
Lagrasse -- I've thought on this one, but it seems a little farther northeast than I'd want to be for the sites we've been looking at. Montsegur, for example, would be about a two hour drive or so away.

hetismji2-- did you stay in St-Paul-de-Fenouillet itself or a smaller village nearby? That looks like an interesting area I hadn't quite poked my head into yet.

hetismij2 Jun 10th, 2022 07:15 AM

It was a really small village, though I can't remember the name now, as it was a while ago. The gite we stayed in is no longer available - I had a look at the site we booked it through to see if I could find it. As I say we did enjoy the area and hope to get back there one day.
I shall be interested to hear where you decide to stay.

rhon Jun 10th, 2022 06:34 PM

We also visited the aqueduct at Ansignan but did so from our base in Eus in 2008. I did not realise it was as close when we were in Couza. It was surrounded by grape vines and very pretty.
This is near the Corbieres wine region and we have enjoyed Corbieres wines when in the area. A little further over is the Minervois wine region as well. We stayed in that region past Carcassonne in 2018. Limoux in the Aude is well known for the sparkling wine, Blanquette de Limoux, which, along with Cremant de Bourgogne, is our choice of bubbles when we are in France. Much easier on the budget than champagne.
It is a nice area. We are at the moment considering a return to France in 2023 and looking at staying a bit further over in the Ariege, perhaps around Foix and also the Bearn region.


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