Castles, Palaces and Caves-9 Days in Puglia and Basilicata
Nov 22nd, 2013, 06:47 AM
#42
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Valle D’ Itria, Puglia Italy Part 2-Martina Franca
On our last day in the Valle d’Itria we drove to Martina Franca. We lucked out and parked on the street which led straight to the the main square at the Piazza XX Settembre where the walking tour in the Thomas Cook Puglia Guide begins. Street parking was paid to an attendant who stopped traffic on the narrow street, guided us into the space, asked how long we’d be, and then presented us with an official receipt for 1.80 euros for 2 hours. It was efficient, though labor intensive.
At the far end of the square, just next to the Arco di Sant’Antonio (which is the entrance to the centro storico), is an information office where we picked up a free map to the town. Pass through the arch and to the right is a lovely 17th century Pallazo Ducale (ducal palace) in one of the (now) municipal buildings. At first it appears uninteresting inside, but climb to the third floor you are rewarded with some of the original (now empty) rooms, complete with ceiling frescos, family portraits and painted doors and walls. There was a very cool modern photography exhibit there as well.
The old center, like most in the Valle d’ Itria appeared to be mostly a pedestrian only zone with the occasional scooter and car coming through. It felt like a very small town, but when I look at a map now, I realize we only saw about 25% of the main streets, so I think it would certainly be worth more time than we gave it (or rather, than we had available on that day).
We followed the main street away from the Ducal Palace and toward the Basilica de San Martino, built in the mid 1700′s, complete with a candy confection of a Baroque yellow pastel interior. Tip; if you need a public restroom there is one behind the church, as you face it, to the right. Inside the church is one of the strangest statues of the Virgin Mary I’ve every seen; call it “Virgin Mary Had a Little Lamb diorama”. I believe it’s actually called the Madonna Patorella. There’s also a version of the Last Supper painted by Domenico Carella.
On our last day in the Valle d’Itria we drove to Martina Franca. We lucked out and parked on the street which led straight to the the main square at the Piazza XX Settembre where the walking tour in the Thomas Cook Puglia Guide begins. Street parking was paid to an attendant who stopped traffic on the narrow street, guided us into the space, asked how long we’d be, and then presented us with an official receipt for 1.80 euros for 2 hours. It was efficient, though labor intensive.
At the far end of the square, just next to the Arco di Sant’Antonio (which is the entrance to the centro storico), is an information office where we picked up a free map to the town. Pass through the arch and to the right is a lovely 17th century Pallazo Ducale (ducal palace) in one of the (now) municipal buildings. At first it appears uninteresting inside, but climb to the third floor you are rewarded with some of the original (now empty) rooms, complete with ceiling frescos, family portraits and painted doors and walls. There was a very cool modern photography exhibit there as well.
The old center, like most in the Valle d’ Itria appeared to be mostly a pedestrian only zone with the occasional scooter and car coming through. It felt like a very small town, but when I look at a map now, I realize we only saw about 25% of the main streets, so I think it would certainly be worth more time than we gave it (or rather, than we had available on that day).
We followed the main street away from the Ducal Palace and toward the Basilica de San Martino, built in the mid 1700′s, complete with a candy confection of a Baroque yellow pastel interior. Tip; if you need a public restroom there is one behind the church, as you face it, to the right. Inside the church is one of the strangest statues of the Virgin Mary I’ve every seen; call it “Virgin Mary Had a Little Lamb diorama”. I believe it’s actually called the Madonna Patorella. There’s also a version of the Last Supper painted by Domenico Carella.
Nov 22nd, 2013, 11:07 AM
#43
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Walking away from the Basilica, you’ll come to the horseshoe shaped Piazza Maria Immacolata and its arched portico. Nearby is the Cafe Tripoli, known for the cream filled pastries called pasticciotto. Of course, we had to buy one. Pasticciotto are like baked little pies made with a short bread crust and filled with a thick pastry cream, sometimes flavored (lemon and almond for example). This one was plain, and fairly heavy and sweet. I can’t say it was the best version possible of this local pastry (also known as pasticciotto leccese).
After a while we decided to drive to Ostuni for lunch. What should have taken maybe half an hour took us more than twice that in dumping rain. The amount of water on the road was downright scary. Once we got to Ostuni we drove in circles looking for a place to park. Soon the town was one massive traffic jam due to flooding and we could not get out of the car. In fact, we had to turn around and find an alternative way out of town and in the end, we completely missed seeing Ostuni and missed lunch. We finally found a grocery store that was open (many close mid afternoon) and thought we’d stop for a can of soup to heat in our apartment’s kitchen. Who knew that cans of soup don’t seem to exist in Italian grocery stores? At least not this one. We finally found some soup, all but hidden, on a high shelf in foil pouches. Soggy, we retired to the masseria to have dinner there and prepare for our drive to Lecce the next day.
Photos for this post are here: http://www.wired2theworld.com/2013/1...artina-franca/
After a while we decided to drive to Ostuni for lunch. What should have taken maybe half an hour took us more than twice that in dumping rain. The amount of water on the road was downright scary. Once we got to Ostuni we drove in circles looking for a place to park. Soon the town was one massive traffic jam due to flooding and we could not get out of the car. In fact, we had to turn around and find an alternative way out of town and in the end, we completely missed seeing Ostuni and missed lunch. We finally found a grocery store that was open (many close mid afternoon) and thought we’d stop for a can of soup to heat in our apartment’s kitchen. Who knew that cans of soup don’t seem to exist in Italian grocery stores? At least not this one. We finally found some soup, all but hidden, on a high shelf in foil pouches. Soggy, we retired to the masseria to have dinner there and prepare for our drive to Lecce the next day.
Photos for this post are here: http://www.wired2theworld.com/2013/1...artina-franca/
Nov 23rd, 2013, 05:21 PM
#44
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Love your trip report and it has inspired me to think about including Puglia in my 2014 plans. I'm envious of your ability to take photos. We too take many food photos which our friends laugh at. I'm getting hungry looking at the antipasti plates. We went to cinqu Terre this year and I ordered a tasting plate of anchovies and it came on 2 plates!
Some of your photos are like a montage. Is this hard to do? Do you need a program or app to do it?
Some of your photos are like a montage. Is this hard to do? Do you need a program or app to do it?
Nov 24th, 2013, 11:19 AM
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jenmorg- Thanks! Glad you are enjoying it!
To make the photo collages I use the free Picassa photo editing program made by Google. I use regular Photoshop for other editing, but Picassa makes the collages easy.
To make the photo collages I use the free Picassa photo editing program made by Google. I use regular Photoshop for other editing, but Picassa makes the collages easy.
Dec 1st, 2013, 01:06 PM
#47
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Hope y'all are still with me. Sorry this is taking so long, but real life often intrudes. Plus, I'm working on the photos and the blog posts at the same time, so it takes me a bit longer. 
<b>Lecce</b>
It’s about an hour’s drive from the Valle d’Itria to Lecce on the main highway. Finding our way to our B&B, the Palazzo Gorgoni, right in the historical center took almost half an hour, even though on the map it looked so simple. The challenge in Lecce, like most towns first constructed before the time of cars, is that the streets are narrow, winding, and in many places, one way. Once we finally found a place to park (thankfully only about 100 feet from the B&B) and checked in, we headed out in search of lunch (more on this later) and a walk about town.
Over the next several days, we walked everywhere we could in town, exploring the piazza with it’s Roman amphitheater, the modern art museum, and admiring half a dozen Baroque churches and all the beautiful architecture around town. Lecce is incredibly photogenic. It’s not hard with all the Baroque detail on the churches and building, the quaint streets, and even the food!
One of the places we really enjoyed visiting was is a place for which I have no photos however, because the light inside was so poor. It’s the tiny Museo Archeologico Faggiano which is inside a three story building in the historical center. In what was once a private residence, they discovered the remains of a 16th century convent and other ruins dating back over 2000 years. There are frescos, old tiles on the walls, water storage tanks, tombs, a granary, and underground walkways. http://www.museofaggiano.it/en/
I’d read that everything shuts up tight in Lecce during mid-day and this is most certainly true. Done expect to visit shops, churches or museums between 2 and 5pm. This can certainly put a cramp in your sightseeing so plan accordingly. Our first stop was the famous Santa Croce which is simply encrusted inside and out with carvings that cover every inch of stone. Unfortunately for us, the outside was also covered in scaffolding while we were there.
<b>Lecce</b>
It’s about an hour’s drive from the Valle d’Itria to Lecce on the main highway. Finding our way to our B&B, the Palazzo Gorgoni, right in the historical center took almost half an hour, even though on the map it looked so simple. The challenge in Lecce, like most towns first constructed before the time of cars, is that the streets are narrow, winding, and in many places, one way. Once we finally found a place to park (thankfully only about 100 feet from the B&B) and checked in, we headed out in search of lunch (more on this later) and a walk about town.
Over the next several days, we walked everywhere we could in town, exploring the piazza with it’s Roman amphitheater, the modern art museum, and admiring half a dozen Baroque churches and all the beautiful architecture around town. Lecce is incredibly photogenic. It’s not hard with all the Baroque detail on the churches and building, the quaint streets, and even the food!
One of the places we really enjoyed visiting was is a place for which I have no photos however, because the light inside was so poor. It’s the tiny Museo Archeologico Faggiano which is inside a three story building in the historical center. In what was once a private residence, they discovered the remains of a 16th century convent and other ruins dating back over 2000 years. There are frescos, old tiles on the walls, water storage tanks, tombs, a granary, and underground walkways. http://www.museofaggiano.it/en/
I’d read that everything shuts up tight in Lecce during mid-day and this is most certainly true. Done expect to visit shops, churches or museums between 2 and 5pm. This can certainly put a cramp in your sightseeing so plan accordingly. Our first stop was the famous Santa Croce which is simply encrusted inside and out with carvings that cover every inch of stone. Unfortunately for us, the outside was also covered in scaffolding while we were there.
Dec 2nd, 2013, 06:49 AM
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There’s a castle in Lecce. Inside, there’s not much to see (the rooms are all empty) but there’s an exhibit of paper mache sculpture for which Lecce is famous.
As you walk around Lecce, keep your eyes open for ornate door knockers which are everywhere in the shape of lion's heads, angels and hands.
In the center of town you’ll find the Piazza Oronzo and off to one side of it, the remains of a Roman Amphitheater, more than half of it remaining underground and un-excavated.
I love modern art museums and the one in Lecce was even more special because the modern art was juxtaposed with the 17th century convent the art is housed in and with the remains of (another) Roman Amphitheater right outside the window.
Lots of photos of Lecce here, more than I can explain in this post: http://www.wired2theworld.com/2013/1...-baroque-city/
As you walk around Lecce, keep your eyes open for ornate door knockers which are everywhere in the shape of lion's heads, angels and hands.
In the center of town you’ll find the Piazza Oronzo and off to one side of it, the remains of a Roman Amphitheater, more than half of it remaining underground and un-excavated.
I love modern art museums and the one in Lecce was even more special because the modern art was juxtaposed with the 17th century convent the art is housed in and with the remains of (another) Roman Amphitheater right outside the window.
Lots of photos of Lecce here, more than I can explain in this post: http://www.wired2theworld.com/2013/1...-baroque-city/
Dec 2nd, 2013, 07:47 AM
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Great report, as usual. Also love your blog, have used it many times in the past when planning trips.
We have a very similar trip planned for next July (2 nights Matera, 2 nights Lecce, 4 nights Polignano al Mare).
Based on your statement: "Getting to our B&B in Lecce was such a trauma we didn’t move the car for 2 days. Getting back to the B&B after leaving for the day was even worse." - and many other similar statements from other people's experience - we have decided to stay at the Grand Hotel Tiziano because it's on a main road into town and has parking. Otherwise it looks very boring/charmless. But we spend very little time in the room anyway and would rather have easy access in and out of town for daytrip, etc.
I was wondering if you had seen this hotel and could comment on the location or anything else. Or any other hints or tips about driving in Lecce or other towns. I notice several towns you mention you just drove in and parked outside of the old town. How easy is this to do? My problem seems to be either I stop too soon and end up with a half hour walk to the area I want to be in, or I go too far and end up in a maze of one way streets I can't get out of.
Thanks
We have a very similar trip planned for next July (2 nights Matera, 2 nights Lecce, 4 nights Polignano al Mare).
Based on your statement: "Getting to our B&B in Lecce was such a trauma we didn’t move the car for 2 days. Getting back to the B&B after leaving for the day was even worse." - and many other similar statements from other people's experience - we have decided to stay at the Grand Hotel Tiziano because it's on a main road into town and has parking. Otherwise it looks very boring/charmless. But we spend very little time in the room anyway and would rather have easy access in and out of town for daytrip, etc.
I was wondering if you had seen this hotel and could comment on the location or anything else. Or any other hints or tips about driving in Lecce or other towns. I notice several towns you mention you just drove in and parked outside of the old town. How easy is this to do? My problem seems to be either I stop too soon and end up with a half hour walk to the area I want to be in, or I go too far and end up in a maze of one way streets I can't get out of.
Thanks
Dec 2nd, 2013, 09:17 AM
#51
"Based on your statement: "Getting to our B&B in Lecce was such a trauma we didn’t move the car for 2 days. Getting back to the B&B after leaving for the day was even worse." - and many other similar statements from other people's experience - we have decided to stay at the Grand Hotel Tiziano because it's on a main road into town and has parking. Otherwise it looks very boring/charmless. But we spend very little time in the room anyway and would rather have easy access in and out of town for daytrip, etc. "
This is very much the problem of Lecce and many towns in Puglia, behind every donut of 1950s buildings is a glorious old jam centre of ancient buildings most of which were not designed for the car.
Grand Hotel Tiziano is on a busy road with a bunch of 1960 civic buildings all around. Basically you have three choices in Puglia
1) Stay in the old town and have a fantastic intimate experience of the old town
2) stay in the outskirts of the old city and not have the old experience and still have to fight your way out to the countryside
3) stay in a masseria or similar in the country and get used to driving for everything.
Of these I think 2 is poor option but hey up to you.
This is very much the problem of Lecce and many towns in Puglia, behind every donut of 1950s buildings is a glorious old jam centre of ancient buildings most of which were not designed for the car.
Grand Hotel Tiziano is on a busy road with a bunch of 1960 civic buildings all around. Basically you have three choices in Puglia
1) Stay in the old town and have a fantastic intimate experience of the old town
2) stay in the outskirts of the old city and not have the old experience and still have to fight your way out to the countryside
3) stay in a masseria or similar in the country and get used to driving for everything.
Of these I think 2 is poor option but hey up to you.
Dec 2nd, 2013, 09:33 AM
#52
While I've holidayed in the area by bicycle, I've also spent time in and driving cars in the area and one thing is very obvious; chose a small car if you must have a car. We used a Fiat 550 this autumn and it worked fine but if you have anything bigger you have to be born Italian to cut through some very small alleys and lanes. The dangers you run into are
1) other drivers (some are crazy)
2) the narrow streets
3) the innumerable linked one-way streets which will happily destroy your day
1) other drivers (some are crazy)
2) the narrow streets
3) the innumerable linked one-way streets which will happily destroy your day
Dec 2nd, 2013, 02:00 PM
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bilbo - thanks for your views (also enjoyed your trip report on the area). I can see from google street view that it's not an attractive hotel or area - but it does have parking, and looks like it would be way easier to find than trying to navigate those little streets inside that inner ring road. Do you not think that's the case? Also, on TA and book.com numerous reviews said it was a 10 to 15 min walk to the main core of the historic center. Do you think that's true?
Last summer I rented a Fiat 500 and plan to do the same here, I certainly agree with you about getting a small car. While we've driven in Italy (Sicily, Tuscany, and many other countries as well) and are not really timid drivers I would rather forgo some charm if it would save us a lot of angst finding the place and parking.
Last summer I rented a Fiat 500 and plan to do the same here, I certainly agree with you about getting a small car. While we've driven in Italy (Sicily, Tuscany, and many other countries as well) and are not really timid drivers I would rather forgo some charm if it would save us a lot of angst finding the place and parking.
Dec 2nd, 2013, 03:52 PM
#54
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Isobel-
It's a tough call. I prefer to stay in the center if possible, but yes, finding our way in the car was a hassle.
From the hotel you've selected to the Piazza Sant Oronzo it's about a 15-20 minute walk. You can use Google Maps to estimate the walking time between locations. The location of that hotel would not be my first choice. If you are going to be there only 2 nights, are you planning a day trip out of the town? If not, your car will be parked the whole time anyway, so why not brave it and stay right in the center?
In terms of the other towns we were just visiting, we just drove in as close as we could get and parked when we could find a space. I think we got lucky several times, but also, I was using the GPS which told me we were getting close to the center.
Bilbo- aren't those clouds crazy?
It's a tough call. I prefer to stay in the center if possible, but yes, finding our way in the car was a hassle.
From the hotel you've selected to the Piazza Sant Oronzo it's about a 15-20 minute walk. You can use Google Maps to estimate the walking time between locations. The location of that hotel would not be my first choice. If you are going to be there only 2 nights, are you planning a day trip out of the town? If not, your car will be parked the whole time anyway, so why not brave it and stay right in the center?
In terms of the other towns we were just visiting, we just drove in as close as we could get and parked when we could find a space. I think we got lucky several times, but also, I was using the GPS which told me we were getting close to the center.
Bilbo- aren't those clouds crazy?
Dec 2nd, 2013, 11:22 PM
#55
Isabel & Kristina
It took me about 25 minutes to get from the bus station (just up the road from your hotel) to the town square pulling a bag so yes 15-20 minutes.
If you stay in that hotel ask for a quiet room
Wherever I drove in Lecce it was difficult and actually once you know Lecce centre it is not too hard, I found Streetview was a real help before I went as I felt that I knew the roads. Mrs Bilbo was making a lot of noise (aargh, noooo etc) but I was comfortable in the old town. The ring road on the other hand was scary. If I was there 2 nights I think I'd select a hotel/B&B in the old town and ask them where to park.
I have a friend who always photoshops clouds into his photos to make the snaps more interesting
It took me about 25 minutes to get from the bus station (just up the road from your hotel) to the town square pulling a bag so yes 15-20 minutes.
If you stay in that hotel ask for a quiet room
Wherever I drove in Lecce it was difficult and actually once you know Lecce centre it is not too hard, I found Streetview was a real help before I went as I felt that I knew the roads. Mrs Bilbo was making a lot of noise (aargh, noooo etc) but I was comfortable in the old town. The ring road on the other hand was scary. If I was there 2 nights I think I'd select a hotel/B&B in the old town and ask them where to park.
I have a friend who always photoshops clouds into his photos to make the snaps more interesting
Dec 3rd, 2013, 04:06 PM
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Kristina and Bilbo - Now you have me second guessing that hotel. It does get pretty good reviews on several sites but I have to admit it looks pretty darn ugly from the outside - and it looks like crossing that road might not be too pleasant.
Our plan is to arrive mid day, park at a hotel and spend the afternoon/evening in Lecce. The next day we'd drive out of town for a day trip and therefore need to drive back in and park again. Otherwise I would be more interested in a place with more character even if it were harder to find, but we don't plan to just leave the car for two days.
Have either of you seen the Istituto Antonacci Rooms? A little closer to the center but claims to have free onsite parking.
Our plan is to arrive mid day, park at a hotel and spend the afternoon/evening in Lecce. The next day we'd drive out of town for a day trip and therefore need to drive back in and park again. Otherwise I would be more interested in a place with more character even if it were harder to find, but we don't plan to just leave the car for two days.
Have either of you seen the Istituto Antonacci Rooms? A little closer to the center but claims to have free onsite parking.
Dec 4th, 2013, 12:20 AM
#57
I don't know it but I recall someone talking about it as the place that is used for school tours and the like (but I may be wrong) check TA. It looks a little Institutional. It is inside the (virtually non-existant) walls which is nice.
The Grand Hotel Tiziano looks very large and pleasant (in a monstrous sort of way) (and you get a pool)
You'll be fine in either
The Grand Hotel Tiziano looks very large and pleasant (in a monstrous sort of way) (and you get a pool)
You'll be fine in either
Dec 8th, 2013, 10:17 AM
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Next up, where we stayed in Lecce...
<b>Palazzo Gorgoni</B>
There are tons of hotels and B&Bs in Lecce and searching through them was more of a challenge than I expected. Then we found Palazzo Gorgoni, recommended to us by Silvestro Silvestori who owns The Awaiting Table, a cooking school based in Lecce. My mother had “met” Silvestro on Twitter and he’d recommended the B&B which is about 100 feet from his school on the same street. While we did not take any classes there, we did take a short tour of the school and meet Silvestro in person. The place looks like a lot of fun.
In the end, we chose Palazzo Gorgoni because of its location right in the center and because the rooms looked nice. In addition, the price was right. At the time, we got a single rate for two of the rooms at 60 euro each a night. We could have shared a room for 80 euro a night, and they are fairly spacious, but it’s nice to have some space during the trip, so we splurged on two separate rooms. We found the location to be perfect for walking anywhere in the center of Lecce.
Palazzo Gorgoni is essentially a three room B&B without the “B” for “breakfast”. One of the rooms is extra large, basically two rooms together with multiple beds, so would be good for a family share. The walls of all the rooms are built from the original beautiful golden pietra leccese (stone from the area around Lecce).
Connecting the two of the rooms is a wide hallway which has a coffee and tea maker, water dispenser, and several books. Marta, Palazzo Gorgoni’s owner, often puts out homemade baked goodies in the afternoon. She also offers her candid restaurant and sightseeing recommendations (it was through her we found the Museo Faggiano). Breakfast (coffee and pastries) was provided at the Mamma Elvira cafe a few blocks away near the Santa Croce church. It wasn’t bad, but I wouldn’t say it was a selling point either. Marta provided us with a parking pass for the centro storico when we arrived.
My room, the “Euippa”, was at the back of the building and gets natural light from a tiny central courtyard to which the room does not have access. Still, it was quiet and lovely with a barrel vault ceiling. Marta explained to us that my room used to be a living area. It has a space which used to be a hearth and one where the water well was, complete with grooves in the stone from centuries of feet standing there, hauling up water. The room also has a separate closet/dressing area in between the room and the bathroom (with bidet, toilet, and shower separate from the sink).
My mother’s room, the “Maria D’Enghein” faced the street and at one time was the kitchen of the building. It had very high ceilings with cathedral like arches and an extra twin bed. I would say her bathroom was a bit nicer than mine in terms of design and space, but I liked that my room was quiet and had the dressing area too.
On our last night, Marta showed us a few of the rooms upstairs in the palazzo which she shares with her mother and siblings. They are indeed grand and it was a treat so see some of the design elements and furniture original to the Palazzo.
Lots of photos, including the rooms, the building, and the surrounding streets are here:
http://www.wired2theworld.com/2013/1...n-lecce-italy/
<b>Palazzo Gorgoni</B>
There are tons of hotels and B&Bs in Lecce and searching through them was more of a challenge than I expected. Then we found Palazzo Gorgoni, recommended to us by Silvestro Silvestori who owns The Awaiting Table, a cooking school based in Lecce. My mother had “met” Silvestro on Twitter and he’d recommended the B&B which is about 100 feet from his school on the same street. While we did not take any classes there, we did take a short tour of the school and meet Silvestro in person. The place looks like a lot of fun.
In the end, we chose Palazzo Gorgoni because of its location right in the center and because the rooms looked nice. In addition, the price was right. At the time, we got a single rate for two of the rooms at 60 euro each a night. We could have shared a room for 80 euro a night, and they are fairly spacious, but it’s nice to have some space during the trip, so we splurged on two separate rooms. We found the location to be perfect for walking anywhere in the center of Lecce.
Palazzo Gorgoni is essentially a three room B&B without the “B” for “breakfast”. One of the rooms is extra large, basically two rooms together with multiple beds, so would be good for a family share. The walls of all the rooms are built from the original beautiful golden pietra leccese (stone from the area around Lecce).
Connecting the two of the rooms is a wide hallway which has a coffee and tea maker, water dispenser, and several books. Marta, Palazzo Gorgoni’s owner, often puts out homemade baked goodies in the afternoon. She also offers her candid restaurant and sightseeing recommendations (it was through her we found the Museo Faggiano). Breakfast (coffee and pastries) was provided at the Mamma Elvira cafe a few blocks away near the Santa Croce church. It wasn’t bad, but I wouldn’t say it was a selling point either. Marta provided us with a parking pass for the centro storico when we arrived.
My room, the “Euippa”, was at the back of the building and gets natural light from a tiny central courtyard to which the room does not have access. Still, it was quiet and lovely with a barrel vault ceiling. Marta explained to us that my room used to be a living area. It has a space which used to be a hearth and one where the water well was, complete with grooves in the stone from centuries of feet standing there, hauling up water. The room also has a separate closet/dressing area in between the room and the bathroom (with bidet, toilet, and shower separate from the sink).
My mother’s room, the “Maria D’Enghein” faced the street and at one time was the kitchen of the building. It had very high ceilings with cathedral like arches and an extra twin bed. I would say her bathroom was a bit nicer than mine in terms of design and space, but I liked that my room was quiet and had the dressing area too.
On our last night, Marta showed us a few of the rooms upstairs in the palazzo which she shares with her mother and siblings. They are indeed grand and it was a treat so see some of the design elements and furniture original to the Palazzo.
Lots of photos, including the rooms, the building, and the surrounding streets are here:
http://www.wired2theworld.com/2013/1...n-lecce-italy/
