I agree about the beauty of internet forums, but do you hope to avoid the Tuscany of the American Musicals or the other Tuscany we glimpsed?

PSGMARTINO.

I think Da Toto is closed Tuesdays, but otherwise open all year long for lunch as well as dinner. But I would call if you are traveling very much off season.

Tel. 0575 836763

Thanks - we are traveling on a Saturday in June - so sounds like Da Toto should be open. I think we'll have to plan to stop there!

>>but do you hope to avoid the Tuscany of the American Musicals <

If you are referring to my comparison of San Quirico to River City, Iowa - I either picked an example where our intrepretations of "River City" are quite different, or you are "reading between the lines" a lot more than I expected. There are no "76 Trombone" parades marching down the streets of San Quirico - just a lot of locals who "meet & greet" each other during the day as they go about their business in town, kids playing soccer in the town square after school, and adults playing cards at the central bar in the evenings. San Quirico is not nearly as touristy as Pienza, Montalcino, or Montepulciano.

Stu Dudley

No, Stu, your allusion put me more in mind of simple folk trilling "'Til There Was You" -- bells on the hill, that sort of thing, but 76 trombones might be lively (provided they're not being blown by gents in tights).

But basta! Pace! I'm sure San Quirico d'Orcia is every good thing you say it is. I feel beaten into submission like a student of St. Benedict. I was just curious whether it was your reports of visiting Tuscany or mine that wrinkled up Bob the Navigator's nose.

As to more meaningful business, I gather that you and Bob the Navigator frequently advise about Tuscany car touring, so do bear in mind that a great many people these days book cars, hotels, train tickets, flights and restaurant reservations over the internet without ever thinking of calling the vendors.

I didn't have a problem with the Avis location in Chiusi, but I could readily see where another traveler using the train would. I doubt many people are going to find this thread, so I'm suggesting that in the future, when the advice is to use Chiusi for ease of car rental, instructions should be given about calling the vendor instead of booking online to insure the rental office is within easy walking distance of the station for those carrying luggage.

I've just been made aware of this old internet conversation about Tuscan dining, and if one scrolls down, part of the exchange is about La Solita Zuppa in Chiusi, where I didn't eat but wanted to. I thought others following this thread might be interested in knowing "the ordering rules" (which I didn't know).

http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/445727

As to overall tone of the thread about Tuscan dining (and the hilarious comments about people craving Asian food), I want to offer that many highly respected gourmet guides and writers often rank the regional cuisines of Emilia-Romagna, Piemonte, Liguria, Campagna, Lazio and Sicily much above that of Tuscany.

One of the problems, I suspect, is that traditionally Tuscan cuisine relies much less on meat than one would guess from eating in Tuscan restaurants. Perhaps restaurants fear that visitors would balk at seeing more beans and soup on the menu than "bistecca." It's a shame that even outside of Tuscany, most Italian restaurants don't put many vegetable dishes on the menu, because the Italians grow very beautiful, delicious vegetables, often in home gardens, and the typical Italian home kitchen uses them brilliantly. Alas, it just isn't considered "restaurant" food.

Many thanks for linking the CH thread! There is some good information on it and the "rules" at La Solita Zuppa make the whole experience sound almost funny! The whole recitation of the ordering system makes me think that a place like that makes its living from serving foreigners which might be another reason to avoid..

I do agree that Tuscany ranks pretty far down the list of great Italian cuisines but I've never had any trouble finding good things to eat. It is interesting how the dishes often vary from region to region within Tuscany itself..

I am not sure why some people are offended by your comments--I think there are people on this board who make their living as "trip planners," and perhaps some of your comments are not good for business!!

I know it is a drag to write these reports but I will ask you to rethink your decision not to do so again. Selfish of me, I know, but I really enjoyed reading this one!

Have fun!

Okay, ekscrunchy I just re-thought my decision about writing future trip reports. And the answer is "no"!

Honestly, it really is too much! I've got to get back to work.

I dearly hope no one takes my one and only trip report as a reason not to visit parts of Tuscany, or as a reason not to plan! And I hope any trip planners reading this are encouraged to help their clients see the crete senese, Chiusi proper, as well as Tarquinia and Ostia Antica, which have their delights.

Stu and I are always on the same page after many trips to Italy. I know Tuscany well and suggest you return in April, May, or Oct. next time.

Suddenly, please know that many other people who have not posted on your thread have enjoyed your report and have taken notes. I have sent it to two people who are planning a Tuscany trip. It is really informative and you truly related good advice to future travelers.

I once ate at La Solita Zuppa.

After I sat down I noticed that there were no locals dining. The decor was very artificial- as though chosen from a restaurant decor catalog. The waiter told me what to order (in a very insistent manor) and the other waiter repeated the same exact lines to the other tables. I did not order all of the courses suggested.

The food was not good. The service seemed very rehearsed and insincere. It was the worst dining experience I have had in 20+ trips to Italy.