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-   -   Capri, Positano, Sorrento (https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/capri-positano-sorrento-391402/)

Jim_Tardio Jul 11th, 2008 04:36 PM

<i>jim - what types of evening activities can you do in sorrento that you cannot in positano? </i>

Positano is basically one big hill.
See this shot I took:

http://www.thelostcompass.net/index.php?showimage=37

While there are many winding streets to explore, you'll find far fewer restaurants, shops, and general strolling areas to mix with the locals.

If you want a quieter night time environment, Positano is for you. If you want a nicer beach, Positano is for you.

Not that there's anything wrong with Positano...it's fantastic. But my preference is for a livelier atmosphere. Positano has more of a resort feel as opposed to a small Italian town.

That's just my opinion.

Jim_Tardio Jul 11th, 2008 05:13 PM

I don't want to leave you with the impression that Positano turns into to a ghost town after dark...it doesn't.

I just think a couple in your age group might enjoy Sorrento a bit more.

While on Capri, you may also want to visit the nearby island of Ischia. It's far less touristy than Capri...the perfect place to &quot;relax and hang out&quot;.

tuscanlifeedit Jul 11th, 2008 05:15 PM

appletea

I didn't write a trip report from May because of family problems since we've been home, but I should have!

We were on a budget and stayed at Hotel La Tosca in Capri. It was simple, very clean, nice service, and pretty. Air conditioning. We liked it.

Now what I didn't like: Naples. I think I am an open minded and sophisticated traveler. I am in the travel business. I have been to Italy and Western Europe many times. I though Naples was too dirty, too chaotic, full of cheesy shops, too rude, and I didn't even like the food, let alone, lord help us, the service. There were things there that I wanted to see and I saw them. I seriously doubt that I would go back.

This is purely my 2 cents.

ekscrunchy Jul 12th, 2008 07:04 AM

Do you mean which day of the week it would be best to arrive in the region?

zeppole Jul 12th, 2008 07:19 AM

&quot;Positano is basically one big hill.&quot;

I love this line!

Rome is basically seven big hills.

San Gimingnano is basically one little hill.

Capri is basically two medium-sized hills.

Liguria is basically a whole lotta hills.

It's the internet pocket guide to italy.

Jim_Tardio Jul 12th, 2008 08:28 AM

Ok, zeppole...one big hill and a beach.

jag1jag1 Jul 12th, 2008 08:32 AM

apple,

The rooms at the Minerva were nice, but the place definitely was not lively. We felt it would have been better had it had a pool, but I see now that it does...you can confirm that. If it does have a pool, then three nights on Capri is fine, because then you would have a place at the hotel to relax and hang out other than your room.

Five nights in Positano worked out; the first night we only arrived in the early evening because we came from Rome. There are some restaurants up in the hills, where they send minivans to pick you up, and we went to those. In the evenings we just went to late dinners and then just walked around, which was fine for us.

After going back and forth about where to fly into, we flew to Rome, because my daughters wanted to go there again. And we had a driver to Positano. Then we took the hydrofoil to Capri. Hydrofoil from Capri to Naples, where a driver took us straight back to Rome.

Jim_Tardio Jul 12th, 2008 08:46 AM

Let me add my 2-cents about private drivers.

This is the only way to go in this area. Even if you spend a bit more it's worth it for the time you save, the insight you gain on your destination, and the door to door service. It's really a pain to park a car here.

I've driven this area many times, and used public transportation as well. Hiring a driver is the only way to go.

I'm not talking about day trips up &amp; down the coast, but rather for your transfers between the airport and the coast.

socaltraveler Jul 12th, 2008 08:50 AM

I would add my 2 cents as well in agreeing with post above. Normally we drive in Italy, or my DH does, and since we live in California, we are used to the twisty roads of the coast and national parks. On this trip we decided we both wanted to see the views, and from what we had heard about the parking situation, decided to splurge on having private car transportation from point to point. Once in Sorrento and again in Positano, we used the local trains, buses and ferries. No regrets about the cost, especially once we found out about the 30 Euros/day it would have cost to park a car we were not going to drive. At the end of our Amalfi days, we had a car take us back to Naples airport where we picked up a car for the Umbria part of our trip. I would do it again this way.

zeppole Jul 12th, 2008 06:18 PM

During the period of the Roman empire, Positano was the place from which the Emperor Tiberius, not trusting the products to be found of the Island of Capri where he feared conspiracies, stocked up with 'safe flour'.

The town developed around the Benedictine Abbey of St Vito in the IX century. It was only later that it became populated; when the Saracen incursions in 915 A.D forced the inhabitants of the surrounding areas to flee and seek refuge here. Traces of these influxes can be seen in much of the town architecture.

During the period of the Maritime Republics, Positano was raided and pillaged by the Pisans, and modified its architecture in order to protect the urban center from invasions from the sea.

Protective walls, narrow, curving lanes, and houses clinging to the coast line in strategic positions, at a height difficult to reach, were built. The town became a busy hub for maritime traffic, even rivalling neighbouring Amalfi between the XV and XVII century. Afterwards, it became the feudo of a number of rich Neapolitan families, and only in the 1700’s did it return to being a ‘regia’ city.

There followed a demographic decline up until the start of the 1900’s when it was ‘discovered’ by the Germans, British and the Americans.
From this moment onwards Positano saw an economic growth which continues today. Boutiques and small companies of a flourishing clothing industry have become so important that they have created their own ‘Moda Positano’ fashion. Articles made by the tailors of Positano constitute an immediately recognisable style of colourful beachwear.

Initially the inhabitants of Positano used silk and jute cloth, and then lace. It was only after the war, thanks to the imagination and entrepreneurial spirit of the people, that ‘Moda Positano’ was born, from the idea of using the so called ‘rags’, or more common materials, to create clothes, bags and swimming costumes.

Many years ago, when travellers arrived in Positano, they heard, amidst the peace and quiet, only the sounds of the typewriters of writers and of the musical instruments of the musicians, aristocrats and intellectuals who had chosen to live in this location, drawn by the beauty of the place, the mild climate, the low prices and the reserved lifestyle lived here. Today Positano is a long way from that life style, the daily crowds of tourists making the towns lanes and alleyways, stairways and hidden passages appear even narrower.

The name 'Positano' can be traced back to two traditions. The historical version states that the name derives from Paestum, whose inhabitants sought refuge in the area during the invasions by Pirates. The other version is that the name derives from a voice which repeated ‘posa, posa’, heard when, during the transportation of a painting of the Virgin Mary, the boat met an incredible storm. The sailors sought shelter in the bay of what is today Positano and, as soon as the painting was placed on the shores, the storm subsided.

The story of the origins of Positano is truly ancient and tends to be a mixture of history and legend. As often happened in the past, the legend, filled gaps left by the lack of data, and sees Positano founded by Poseidon, the God of the Sea, for love of the Nymph, Pasitea.

zeppole Jul 12th, 2008 06:20 PM

I mean, when you're looking at that hill with the beach, you might as well know what you're looking at.

Jim_Tardio Jul 12th, 2008 06:45 PM

Thanks for the history lesson zeppole. You can lean still more by visiting Wikipedia:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Positano

My family is from nearby Ischia. I spent many childhood and teen summers on Ischia, and in the towns along the coast.

For about 20 years I didn't return because I no longer had parents who paid my way :(

Now that I've got some money, I try to get back there every two years or so to see what little family I have left.

No offense to Positano's glorious past, but to me it's a big hill and a nice beach :)

In all seriousness to the original poster, you'll have an unforgettable time no matter how and where you divide your time.

appletea Jul 14th, 2008 02:55 PM

wow, thanks for the abundance of information. i feel a bit overwhelmed. i'm going to have to reread it all again.

i think this is what i might like to do:
3 nights in capri
4/5 couple nights in positano
2/3 in sorrento,
since its a better base?
see ravello (day trip)
see pompeii (day trip)

i am thinking about 10-12 days max.
do you think that's moving around too much? and would you recommend an order for the 3 cities? (thanks eks for the note on how you've read it's more difficult to travel from capri to naples in time for flights)

jim - the private drivers - are you referring to after you arrive in naples, get a private driver to take you to positano or hydrofoil to capri and then take private drivers everywhere you go? not the buses or trains?

eks - yes, is there a better day to arrive in the region? for instance, maybe if we arrive on sunday, nothing will be open? i'm not sure.

thank you all so much for all of your input.
~apple

Jim_Tardio Jul 14th, 2008 04:26 PM

I would use a private driver to take you from the airport to your hotel, and from your hotel back to the airport.

I would use public transportation for day trips once you are settled.

Your hotels will be able to arrange drivers between hotels when it comes time to change hotels, or perhaps your driver will offer to provide this service.

I would start in Sorrento, then go to Capri, and finish up in Positano, where you'll have several days to relax. I think you've given yourself plenty of time without moving around too much.

You'll have ample time for day trips. You can visit Ravello the same day you visit Amalfi.

On Capri/Anacapri, be sure to ride the chair lift up Mount Solaro, and hike back down. There are some breathtaking hikes on Capri.

Have a great time, and bring a lot of money :)

Jim_Tardio Jul 14th, 2008 04:59 PM

One more thing...you should consider visiting Paestum. You're so close and you may never get the opportunity again.

appletea Jul 16th, 2008 10:58 AM

Thanks for all of the advice.
Here is the latest itinerary.

3 nights in Sorrento (day trip to Pompeii, day trip to Paestum)
3 nights in Capri
4-5 nights in Positano (day trip to Ravello/Amalfi)

I am now researching hotels. . . Any recs appreciated. =)

SusanD Jul 16th, 2008 11:12 AM

I just got back and Capri is definately a relaxing place - I would definately stay there a few nights - we stayed up in Anacapri - fabulous views of the sea from there. Capri Town where the cruise ship tours go is very busy and just 10 minutes away by taxi from Anacapri. Not sure of your budget but the Caesar Augustus is to die for.
We also stayed in Sorrento for five nights which is the largest town in the Amalfi area - it was a good location with lots of good restaurants but I would stay in Positano as it is more central to the area. Musts to do - Amalfi, and Ravello. The bus ride to and from each town is the best way to get around as well as the Hydrofoil.
Stay out of Naples - it full of crime and is dirty and has zero charm. Although it has a good museeum which is a good place to go if you are planning a day trip to Pompeii.
When in Sorrento go down to the small fishing village for dinner on one of the piers - very laid back and not as touristy.
If getting handmade sandals - the best ones were in Capri up in Anacapri - great craftsmenship - done on the spot and the least expensive we found.

hnberlin Jul 16th, 2008 11:51 AM

Hi Appletea, my husband and I did this trip last year and I wish we went to Paestum. We were there in July and all we wanted to do was veg because of the heat so definitely try to go if you can. We stayed in Praiano instead of Positano. Now, all of the following opinions are my own and everyone is different.

I didn't &quot;get&quot; Positano. I found it too touristy and full of gimicky shops. I just didn't find it as charming as everyone said I would. I found our photos looked better than our experience, if you know what I mean. Having said that, I found Praiano incredibly boring, other than swimming in the sea there, which was divine. As a base for all of the sites towards Amalfi, you can't go wrong with Positano and it is a must see. Make sure you see it from the sea. Some nice souvenirs that I brought back was a bottle of Paestum perfume from Le Sirenuse hotel (they have a boutique across the street) and some yummy items from Profumi di Positano.

Capri was wonderful. Even in the height of summer, I totally loved it. I would spend 4 nights here because there is more to do than you think. Highlights:

- Circular boat tour of the island
- Blue Grotto. I almost slammed my head going in and our boatman sang opera but I found it spooky and wonderful at the same time, even when crowded. I just sat there and soaked it up
- Da Gemma restaurant. I still dream of the antipasti buffet. This is a famous restaurant with good service and reasonably priced. Make sure you visit.
- Limoncello and people watching at night in the piazzetta
- Chairlift up Monte Solaro. It's difficult to describe the joy of having some peace to yourself (chairs only take one person), contemplating the terraced landscape below and Vesuvius across the bay. We got to the top, unbelievable views. Bring money for a beer and just enjoy

If La Minerva had a pool last year, we would have stayed there. We walked past it at night and the location is truly lovely. Now that it has a pool, I would definitely stay there.

For Sorrento, it was a good base for Pompeii which you must not miss. We stayed at La Minervetta. I don't know your budget but if you can stretch, absolutely stay here. Check any number of websites for the fabulous photos. The breakfast spread is so original, laid out self serve in the most wonderful kitchen. (http://www.i-escape.com/hotel.php?se...otel_key=SI006) It's located right above the Marina Grande and there is a private staircase you can walk down to get there. It all adds to the fun. I didn't think Sorrento was up to much, it's nice enough but maybe if you left it to the end to relax and see Pompeii, that would be good. The hotel is more like a guesthouse. You have the run of the place. Last time I checked, it was #2 on TripAdvisor. This is definitely a hotel to relax and hang out. The only drawback is that because of its position, the pool area lacks sunlight after about 3pm (in the summer).

To be honest with you, I was like you when I was planning this trip. SO difficult to know how to space out your days. If I was to go back, I would do 4 nights Capri, 4 or 5 in Positano (depending on the daytrips) and 2-3 max in Sorrento.

I'm from Canada originally but live in London. I still take my &quot;big country&quot; ideas with me to mainland Europe and then am surprised to find everything is closer than I thought. For instance, the hydrofoil from Capri to Positano just wasn't long enough. My biggest piece of advice would be to try and go with the flow and try and use water transport whenever possible.

By the way, Pompeii is MASSIVE. We were there over 7 hours without a break. I could not believe the artwork on the walls. Suddenly the wall art I see in English stately homes made sense. I found it very emotional. If you ever watched the series 'Rome', you could see Attia everywhere. A wonderful experience, very moving.

ekscrunchy Jul 16th, 2008 12:20 PM

Appletea:

Here is the report I wrote about my recent week-long trip to the area; in it you will find info on both Pompeii and Paestum. We based ourselves in Amalfi, as I mentioned, and spent two nights in Naples at the end of the week:




http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=35128776


TuckH Jul 16th, 2008 12:28 PM

&gt; I am now researching hotels. . . Any recs appreciated. =) &lt;

We stayed here (in Anacapri) and recommend it...

http://www.capri.net/en/c/monte-solaro


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