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Capri (easily accessible)?
I am travelling to Capri and am wondering how accessible the sights are: Villa Jovis and some of the others (recommendations would be appreciated).
Can anyone tell me the layout of the town? From the dock, are you right in the town or do you walk up to the town. What about the paths I keep hearing about...are these pretty navigable for a solo traveller? (what about times to get from town to say villa jovis)...or from town to Blue Grotto (I guess you take a boat from the dock)? Thanks much! Patricia |
The port is , naturally enough, at sea level. the town of Capri is on top of a very high bluff (mountainette). You take a funicular up to the top. After that everything in Capri itself is by foot - Villa Jovis takes about an hour to stroll to. If you want to go to the other town - Anacapri - there is a small bus.
There are two ways of seeing the Blue Grotto there are two option - by boat (motor launch from the port out to the grotto, transfer to row boat in mid sea, rowed tour of the grotto and transfer back to the motor launch) or to take the bus/walk to the other end of the island, climb down a stairway cut into the side of the cliff and pick up a row boat near the entrance of the grotto. We did the former - which seemed more efficient - but could be a problem if you are very petite. There was a mature, very small woman in our boat and she was not able to climb from the row boat back into the motor launch - I think she was also afraid to try the jump from one boat to another. She had to be sort of pushed/dragged back up into the launch by the rower, launch driver and her husband. |
thanks nytraveler!
If I was going to walk to the Villa Jovis are there signposts to point one in the right direction? Do they offer tours on the trails? If not, are these easily navigable for one who is not an outdoorsy type. Not that I can't be, but I just don't go hiking much. Thanks! Patricia |
Hi again Patricia...I remember you from the Italian translation thread that got way out of hand! (Glad that I was able to help you anyway...)
Yes, to answer your question, the Villa Jovis (Emperor Tiberius' Villa) is very easy to walk to - even for non-hiker types like myself too. I took my toddler in the stroller up there no less (of course, abandoning the stroller behind a bush very near the site as the hill was just a bit tough to push a stroller up and I was tired!). There are signs along the way and you will wander through neighborhoods and wonder if it is the right way but it is. You can always ask the friendly Italians and they will point. From there, you can walk down the mountainside again (retrace your steps) and walk over to the Arco Naturale (the natural arch) that will be to your L on the coast. It is really a sight to see - a complete arch carved out of the rocks in the water. Basically, everything radiates off the central "piazzetta" in Capri. From there you go to Villa Jovis, to Anacapri, etc. It would be helpful if you got a map of the island prior to going, then you can highlight the places you want to see and trace on the maps. Then once there, it will be easy to see which direction to go off to. My recommendation would be to go to the Blue Grotto immediately after you land in Capri. By going early-ish in the day, you will avoid the crowds and heat later on. (We went ~ 10:30 am). As soon as you get off the boat, look to your L and you will see another boat and ticket booth area with signs that say "Blue Grotto". It costs approx 15 euros total per person to see it as you pay initially for the boat ride over to the grotto, then pay again to get into a smaller row boat that actually goes into the Blue Grotto cavern. It was awesome and if I go to Capri again, I would do it again. The blue is just the most amazing cobalt, royal blue color you can imagine. |
On Capri its'not hiking - at least the parts I have been too - its just walking up or down a path - maybe somewhat uneven or rutted - but defnitely a path -even paved in some places. No real hiking or climbing involved. If you're a city person and used to a little bit of walking (3/4 miles after a Sunday brunch) - this is nothing.
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As NY said, the Marina, where you get off the boat at the base of the down, and there are shops and restaurants down there. You have 3 options to get up to the town: the funicular, for which you get tickets not at the funicular itself, but at a booth on the harbor side after you pass the funicular, just past the port building. They will also sell you bus tickets (Euro 1.30). The second option is taking the bus from Marina Grande to Capri Town. The third option is walk up the hill.
At the Marina Grande, you can also catch a bus to Anacapri (also 1.30 Euro), getting tickets at the same place. If you want to go into the Blue Grotto, first make sure the tides will enable you to get in. The tourists boats should provide that information to you. If the tide is high, the entrance to the grotto is blocked by the water. We took the Laser Boat tour around the island. They told us before-hand the tide was high and not much chance of getting in. However, it was an amazing trip in any event, since we saw the white grotto, the emerald grotto, the natural arch, the Faraglioni rocks and everything else you can see from water level. The opening of the blue grotto was miniscule. Undaunted, we took the bus from the Marina Grande to Anacapri; then changed buses, and took a second bus from the town of Anacapri to the blue grotto. A short flight of stairs down to the grotto itself, with a ladder that takes you into the sea. Many fearless people (my husband included) swam right in. There's a chain the boaters use to pull on to get in. When the tides are high, it can be dangerous unless you are a strong swimmer, because one quick forceful wave can knock you into the rocks. We opted to head back the next morning from Capri. Our reception guy called the docks to find out if it would be open, and learned that it would be. From just off Piazza Umberto (heading down Via Rome away from the funicular) are the buses to Anacapri. 1.30 Euro (every ride is the same price) to Anacapri, then a short walk to the bus station and another 1.30 euro to the blue grotto. We arrived about 9, just as the last of the swimmers were pouring out of the grotto to the complaints of the oarsmen who had just set up shop. 9 a.m. is perfect, because the tourist boats haven't arrived, and the boatsmen will pick you up from the little landing and take you in (around 8.50 euro each). Less people inside, and more time inside to enjoy. Have your camera in your hand, because once you get inside, it's pretty dark and hard to find your bag with your camera in it. If you have a camera phone, use it -- it makes great wallpaper! I'd also highly recommend the bird's view of the island: taking the chairlift at Anacapri up to Mount Solaro. 6.50 euro for a round trip. While I'm not good with heights, it was actually a more calming experience for me going down than going up, and an all around experience that I will never, ever forget. From the top, you see the entire island; the rocks, the views of the coastline, Naples, of Mt. Vesuvius, of everything. Words can't describe the views. Actually, the ride from Marina Grande on the bus to Anacapri was more hair-raising of an adventure, especially if you decide to sit on the right side of the bus. I thought I was a good driver. There's no way, however, I can compare myself to these bus drivers; they are in a league of their own, and I say that with the greatest of compliments. |
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