Capri, Amalfi Coast, Lake Como - 25th Anniversary Trip
 

We are currently planning a 25th wedding anniversary trip to Capri/Amalfi Coast + Lake Como for May 27th thru June 7th, 2017.

Our travel preferences are as follows:

1. "Quintessential small village Italy" with spectacular sunset views and regional location.
2. On a scale of 1-5, seeking a solid 4+ full hotel or B&B offering quiet/privacy, rooms with perfect views of surrounding scenery, modern/updated facilities, superior service attitude, and on-site amenities (infinity pool, spa, fitness).
3. We believe there is nothing worse than "Overpaying for touristy, loud, outdated lodging and/or poor service!"
4. We plan to hike, swim (only pool and/or ocean), lounge and read books @ pool or beach, bike, leisurely stroll village streets/shops, eat great food, wine, and coffee, and otherwise people-watch from small sidewalk cafe.

We are seeking feedback on our questions below:

1. Capri vs Ravello as regional base - which is better? Are there other options we should consider? We prefer to stay at a single hotel in this region - a 6 night stay at either Capri's La Scalinatella Hotel or Ravello's Hotel Belmond Caruso.

2. Best village as base for Lake Como - Bellagio vs Como vs Maneggio vs Tremezzo vs Cernobbio? We prefer to stay at a single hotel in the Lake Como region - a 6 night stay in Bellagio's Borgo La Terrazze or Hotel Belvedere Bellagio.

We are also considering the following Lake Como hotel and B&B properties and welcome everyone's feedback on these properties. Are there other lodgings we should consider?

- Hotel Belvedere Bellagio
- Residence La Limonera (Bellagio)
- Splendor Luxury Penthouse (Bellagio)
- Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni (Bellagio)
- Hotel Il Perlo (Bellagio)
- Borgo La Terrazze (Bellagio)
- Villa d'Este (Cernobbio)
- Hotel Grand Tremezzo (Tremezzo)

Thank you, in advance, for your insight and guidance!

Best Regards,
DMiclat
Washington DC

Capri vs. Ravello - I love Ravello but the problem with making it your base is that it is so isolated. I would rather stay in the town of Amalfi down the mountain from Ravello. You can easily visit Ravello from there and it is much easier to get to the other towns along the coast. My first choice would be Positano. Check out the Villa Gabrisa.

None of the places you mention are "quintessential small village Italy." These are all tourist destinations.

You only mention hotels and not sightseeing, so I'm not sure the location makes much difference to you. But if you intend to do any sightseeing, you should mention what you want to see/do because that would likely influence recommendations. As letsgeaux mentioned, Ravello is a bit removed.

Your hotel list for Lake Como reflects an enormous range of rates and amenities from cheaper apartments to the most expensive hotel on the lake, so it's just about impossible to know exactly what you're looking for. Based on your stated choices in Ravello and on Capri, it appears you really want 5* luxury, but neither of your 'finalists' for Bellagio are in that category. FYI, you won't get "spectacular sunset views" from a hotel on the western shore of the lake.

Villa Serbelloni comes closest to what you seem to be asking for; however, do you want the hotel service or would you prefer an apartment? If apt, La Limonera in Bellagio is a lovely place to stay right in town, on the upper level of town.

FYI Villa Serbelloni also has self-catering apartments behind the hotel; you have access to hotel pools etc. but they are behind the hotel and as mentioned are self catering.

We stayed in Ravello for 6 nights for a big anniversary but loved the b&b we stayed in, Casa di Vania. Views! breakfast on the terrace; and artistic suite. 5' walk to town.

However, for our last two nights we stayed at La Sirenuse in Positano for a splurge; if you want the deluxe treatment and prices that's where I'd go on the AC.

Above posted mentioned Amalfi, where we stayed on a previous trip; it is definitely more accessible for touring the area; check out Luna Convento, and some people here have mentioned Santa Caterina as well.

Stay in Amalfi.

Two splurges on the Amalfi Coast, Le Sirenuse in Positano and Monastero Santa Rosa in Conca dei Marini. Both are gorgeous, wonderful hotels to celebrate your milestone.

As Jean notes, without knowing your accommodations budget, it's difficult to give a recommendation if one is going to recommend a property other than the ones you've listed.

Good morning all

All very good points. We are from Washington DC, so our view of small quintessential Italian village probably applies to many areas - tourist destination or not - on the Amalfi Coast/Capri/Lake Como.

Our activities in both regions will be as follows:

- Hiking routes offering excellent views of the surrounding landscape
- Lounging/swimming at the hotel pool
- Having morning coffee and evening gelato at small, outdoor cafe with perfect views of sunrise and sunset.
- A little biking or scooter activity.
- Some visiting of ancient ruins (on Capri/Amalfi Coast, possibly on Lake Como).
- Evening walks/window shopping the local artisans near hotel.

In Capri/Amalfi Coast - we prefer the luxury 4*+ experience (hence the La Scalinatella, Hotel Belmond Caruso, Santa Rosa, Santa Caterina targets).

In Lake Como - we are okay with 3*+ lodging (seriously considering Borgo Le Terrazze Hotel & Residences on the southern edge of Bellagio.

Does that help provide better insight into our goals?

Thank you!
DMiclat
Washington DC

When reading your post, Villa Serbelloni came to mind. Prettier section of the lake than Villa d' Este.
For Capri look at La Minerva, a boutique property with the most personalized service we have experienced anywhere! Family owned. You will be well taken care of and dining reservations at any restaurant you want will be arranged, never a problem getting one.

>>Does that help provide better insight into our goals?<<

Not for me, because you still didn't give an accommodations budget. ("3*+" is subjective and not a budget.)

But I'll bow out. I'm sure others can help.

Le Sirenuse will get you the views you want for breakfast (gorgeous, huge breakfast buffet with my husband's favorite coffee anywhere). The pool is nice but the infinity pool at Monastero is prettier. Only 3 rooms at MSR have a balcony. The champagne and oyster bar and outdoor bar at Le Sirenuse are incredible, again with a great view. They also have a bar next door for evening cocktails (Franco's bar). Their pistachio gelato at Le Sirenuse is heaven.

At Le Sirenuse, you would not be far from the start of the 1700 steps to Nocelle ( go early before the sun is really up to avoid the heat), from there you can take the Path of the Gods to Bomerano.

If you are in Positano, look for the little place where they make shoes on the spot. I love my sandels from there!

At MSR, they do have a shuttle to take you into Amalfi.

I don't think there is a budget. That's OK, because it's an 'occasion' trip, but apparently the choices are ones only the OP can make.

dmiclat, just FYI, it will take most of a day to travel from Capri/AC to mid-Lake Como. "Visiting ancient ruins" but no Pompeii??

Thank you everyone! Below are some additional comments, clarifications, and questions.

Annw - Thank you for the guidance re La Limonera in Bellagio. We are open to an apartment in Lake Como and La Limonera is a prime candidate. We are also considering Borgo La Terrazze in Bellagio. Any thoughts on Borgo as a choice for apartment or hotel in Lake Como (again - we are open to a 3*+ hotel in Lake Como?

Jean - Not sure we will visit Pompeii, Vesuvius, or even Naples on this trip. Our goal is to simply "unwind and melt into the fabric of daily life while watching the world pass by." We are sure to visit a few historic churches, etc...however, we are not interested in devoting an entire day trip for the primary purpose of visiting a ruin like Pompeii or Herculaneum. Of course, that could change between now and next May.

Vincenzo - In regards to budget, we equate 3* hotel to roughly 125E-150E per room per night. For a 4*, we are estimating between 200E-250E per room per night. What is most important to us is the quality of room, facilities, and service attitude that we receive for our money. Everything is relative.

HappyTrvlr & Denisea - MSR is an beautiful property intriguing choice for the 6 nights in Amalfi. How much of an effort to get to Path of Gods or visit Amalfi, Ravello, Positano, Sorrento from MSR? Also, do you have any thoughts re pros and cons of using Capri as a base for visiting Amalfi Coast or La Minerva and La Scalinatella on as solid 4*+ properties on Capri?

Good afternoon All

A correction re: 3* and 4* lodging budget:

3* = 250E - 350E
4* = 350E - 450E

We have been to La Minerva on Capri two years in a row and are planning to return again next year. We love it. Last year we stayed three nights, this year we stayed four nights—both years in late May. If you are looking to unwind I highly recommend staying a minimum of three nights on Capri. There is a lot to do and see—hiking, views, shopping, good food, relaxing. My husband loves it because there are (almost) no cars. You can walk, take a bus or a taxi to get anywhere. Fifteen years ago I stayed in and apartment in Conca dei Marini. We drove all around seeing the sights...but it was not relaxing. Capri would not be a "base" from which to sight see the Amalfi Coast...it would be a base to see Capri and Anacapri.

I just looked up La Scalinatella Hotel...it is just down the way from La Minerva—an excellent location, lovely views and off the beaten track from the tourist epi-center.

cathleenmarie - Thank you for the first-hand insight on Capri. I think you are right re: using Capri for a base to see the Amalfi Coast. How many nights do you recommend on Capri for a first time visit?

I would not use Capri as a "base" for the Amalfi Coast. It would be too much back and forth on the ferries—a total waste of precious time. I would stay on Capri the whole time and skip the Amalfi Coast. If you go to the La Minerva website, click on Concierge and then Exploring the Island. There are many recommendations. On top of that the brothers who run the hotel—Luigi, Antonino and Marco—can help you craft an itin (as I am sure any other hotel would help you do). We usually do a nice walk one day (Villa Jovis or Lysis, or Punta Canone), a boat around the island and visit to a beach club (Fontelina). This year we went to Il Riccio for lunch which was a highlight. Luigi says that the Sentiero dei Fortini is the most gorgeous walk in all of Southern Italy. We were unable to do it because we were traveling with our parents (in their late 70s/ 80s). I think in the height of summer it is too hot to do the walk but in May might work.

You could hire a fancier boat to bring you around the island and to the mainland one day, maybe for lunch? I wouldn't but you could see Positano this way.

We would stay a minimum of three nights...four would be ideal if you could swing it.

Capri is wonderful - but I'm not sure it will be convenient to seeing the rest of the Amalfi Coast.
On my first trip to AC, we stayed in Priano - very centrally located - and found it very easy to navigate up and down the Coast from the area. Hotel Tramonto d'Oro is a great hotel - views are excellent, great service, terrific property.

You asked about Borgo la Terraze. We are booked there for our upcoming September trip - so I can't review it, but keep in mind it is not in Bellagio "proper". You have to drive to town or take the shuttle that runs 5 or 6 times per day on a schedule. The views look amazing.

Good evening Cathleenmarie and Ladylyn -

Thank you for the wonderful feedback and guidance! We are currently toying with the idea of adding the AC as a second stop in our itinerary - ONLY IF we there are sufficient # of nights for our desired activities on the AC within a total 12 night holiday. If not, we would prefer to skip the AC on this trip and reduce the overall trip duration (if 8 nights on Lake Como is overkill).

If both of you could indulge us with a few more of your insights, we would be grateful if you could please review our goals for the AC and Lake Como and provide any recs.

Capri - 4 nights @ Hotel La Scalinatella or La Minerva.

Amalfi Coast
Our desired activities include photography, "coffee sunrises", sunset swim", hiking "Path of the Gods", visiting villages of the Amalfi Coast, window shopping for local products (silk, sandals, pottery), and day trip to Pompeii, Herculaneum, and possibly Vesuvius via rental/private car.

- How many nights are ideal for our first visit to the Amalfi Coast?
- What is the best village for our desired activities?
- What are your 4*+ lodging recs for that village?
- Which AC villages do you consider "a must visit?"
- What is the best (most time efficient, reliable, and least aggravating) mode of travel from recommended lodging to visit the other villages on AC?

Take Trenitalia speed train from Naples to Milan/Lake Como. Rental car possibly in Milan for trip to Lake Como.

Lake Como
Our desired activities include photography, "coffee sunrises", "sunset swim", hiking, visiting 3-4 villages of Lake Como, and window shopping for local products (e.g. pottery).

We prefer the village of Bellagio as we think it allows us to "reverse commute" (i.e. we would visit other lake villages during the day and return to Bellagio at end of day when most of the crowds have departed).

- How many nights are ideal for our first visit to Lake Como?
- Which shoreline is best to view sunrise over Lake Como?
- Which shoreline is best to view sunset over Lake Como?
- Which village is best suited for our desired activities?
- What are your 3* lodging recs for that village?
- Which lake villages do you consider "a must visit?"

Ladylyn - we certainly look forward to your trip report re: Lake Como and Borgo Le Terrazze. The views and photos of the property are impressive - and for quite a reasonable price.

Again, thank you for all of your earlier guidance and we look forward to receiving your responses.

Have a great evening!

Best Regards,
DMiclat
Washington DC

I think that Capri is a compact Amalfi Coast—without the driving. There is beauty, there is shopping, there is history, there is R&R.

I have been to Pompeii twice. You should go once. It is very hot. I cannot believe I am going to write this—it is just OK. Maybe something that you have to check off the list.

I would go to Capri any day over the AC...but I am sure there are strong and valid arguments for the AC.

I have never been to Lake Como...so have no opinions there.

To the OP, you want the hotel shuttle to take you to Bomerano to hike the Path of the a Gods from MSR. We inquired and the hotel staff indicated that it was not easy or practical to walk their from the hotel. MSR is beautiful but so high up, that it is a bit isolated. The shuttle could take you to Amalfi, though. We stayed 3 nights but we were not really looking to site see...spa and pool were our focus. We were there when there were wild fires that had the tunnel and main road closed, so we did not use the shuttle. You might check with the staff at MSR.

if you want to see more sites, you would probably be happier at Santa Caterina or Le Sirenuse. We spent 6 nights at Le Sirenuse and loved it. But, we also did almost nothing so were not focused on getting around on the AC. We only went on one excursion up to Tramonti for a wine tasting at Tenuta San Francesco. It was convenient to the steps to Nocelle and from there you could hike to Bomerano. The rest of the time we were at the pool or exploring Poisitano.

Lake Como:

IMO, it isn't worth the time/effort to reach the lake from the AC unless you stay a minimum of 3 nights and 4 would be better. (Are you flying home from Malpensa, and if so what time is your flight?)

It would seem obvious that the western shore is 'best' for sunrises and the eastern shore is 'best' for sunsets. Bellagio is on a point of land in the middle, so you'd get reasonably good views of both.

It sounds like you've decided on staying in Bellagio. If you plan to take the ferry to other towns every day, the Borgo le Terrazze might not be the best choice as it's almost 2 miles from the dock. In Bellagio, I like the Hotel Florence and the Residence La Limonera but neither have a pool. I would stay in the GH Villa Serbelloni if I could afford it. Many like the Hotel Belvedere, but it's a bit of an uphill hike at the end of the day. It has a pool and spa.

I wouldn't point out lake towns to see but rather specific sights. Villa Balbianello (Lenno), Villa Carlotta (Tremezzo), Melzi Gardens (Bellagio), Villa Monastero Varenna), Castello Vezio and falconry (Varenna) as well as the walk up or down. From Menaggio, you can take a bus to the town of Lugano on Lake Lugano in Switzerland.

You need to peruse the ferry timetable to understand what would be possible in the time you have there. Assuming you arrive by train at Varenna-Esino and stay in one of the mid-lake towns, you would likely only use the mid-lake shuttle ferry.

http://www.navigazionelaghi.it/c_dow...vetta%20CL.pdf

But you can see the timetables for ferries that travel the length of the lake between Como and Colico here:

http://www.navigazionelaghi.it/c_dow...olico_Como.pdf

http://www.navigazionelaghi.it/c_dow...omo_Colico.pdf

Monastero Santa Rosa is in the middle of nowhere. It doesn't even have decent bus connections. Your plans involve a lot of sightseeing so avoid that hotel - it is pretty much useless - especially for 'sunset swims' - it's nowhere near the sea.

You have an awful lot of plans for just 12 days. Have you deducted your arrival and departure day from your 27 May-7 June itinerary as they will be a wipeout. It will take you one day alone to get from the Amalfi Coast to Lake Como.

You won't be able to accomplish everything. Pare it back. The Path of the Gods is only worthwhile if the day is clear and the weather forecast is clear - otherwise it is risky and downright dangerous in places due to low visibility. A tourist plunged to her death on the path last year.

A day trip to Pompeii/Herc/Vesuvius is a day wasted out of the Amalfi Coast as it's 1.5 hours one way in a car on a decent run to Pompeii (i.e. without traffic). See just one on your way in or out. If you use a car service from Naples station or airport, they will stop for you for two hours and then drive you on to Positano or wherever.

I would stay in Positano - it has ferry connections to Capri and Amalfi, has a good selection of hotels (Hotel Marincanto would be my recommendation) and good shopping and restaurants.

Amalfi Coast - If price is no object the answer is easy. Stay at Le Sirenuse. We did not stay there but we spent so much time at the bar and restaurant the staff was getting to know us. It is a fantastic place.

Good morning Cathleenmarie, Jean, Denisea, Blueeyedcod, and Letsgeaux

All wonderful advice and very much appreciated!

We will be finalizing our itinerary tonight and we'll be sure to let you know.

Thanks again and have a great day!

Best Regards,
DMiclat
Washington DC

Good luck with your planning. Hard to make a bad decision choosing between Ravello,Positano,and Capri. In reviewing your requirements, I believe that Capri would suit you best. Incredible views, interesting hikes, great restaurants, and probably the best window shopping. We reserved a boat for half a day and circled the island. They are Great hikes both in Capri and Ana Capri. Had awonderful dinner in a lemon Grove. Can't remember the name of that restaurant that yo can't remember the name of that restaurant though.

If you go to Lake Como, don't miss Al Velu in Tremezzo for lunch. We had an incredible meal on their Terrace.

La Limonera as mentioned is a lovely apartment right in town/Bellagio, on the upper street parallel to the promenade below; the town is laced with vertical steps/lanes between the two. As noted above, no pool--and self-catering.

Villa Serbelloni has pools and as noted both hotel rooms and self-catering apts. So it's a trade-off. VS far more pricey but more services and pools.

Both are right in town, walking distance to everything in town, along the promenade, etc. We had a gorgeous view from our room at La Limonera but then again VS has them too. Seems like no bad choices here!

Villa D'Este was fun to visit for a day but I agree with a poster above that
it isn't the loveliest part of the lake, especially compared to Bellagio.

Ditto Blueeyedcod's advice. I just returned from another 8 days in Positano (renting an apartment) and will return again next year. And I would stay in town for easy access to the ferries.

See Pompeii on your way to or from the AC - maybe on your way to Capri from the lake.

Good morning all

First of all, a hearty thank you to everyone for their guidance, insight, and experience - all of your comments were helpful and very much appreciated.

After much discussion, we have settled on the below itinerary for our 25th Wedding Anniversary Italian holiday:

- 5 nights on Capri @ Hotel La Scalinatella
- Trenitalia speed train from Naples to Milan
- Car service to Borgo Le Terrazze Hotel & Residences, Bellagio, Lake Como
- 5 nights on Lake Como @ Borgo Le Terrazze Hotel & Residences
- Car service to Milan Marriott
- 1 night in Milan @ Marriott (using points)

We will be sure to post a trip report and provide feedback on the hotels, transit, activities, and food/wine.

Thank you!

Best Regards,
DMiclat
Washington DC

Your trip will be fabulous.

You will not be sorry staying in Capri and at Hotel La Scalinatella It is beautiful.

Capri is special and staying ON Capri is the way to go.
Nights are magical & not the same as just visiting on a day trip.
TrendGirl2

Thank you TrendGirl2! We are super excited. ;)

Dmiclat - sorry I couldn't reply back sooner. Your trip sounds great as planned. I will definitely post a TR about Bellagio and Borgo la Terrazze.
We are also spending our last day in Milan - I have tickets to see the Last Supper and plan to go to the Duomo and have a nice dinner before returning to First Hotel at MXP for our morning flight home..

Ladylyn

Enjoy your Italian holiday and safe travels! :)

Just wondering how you plan to get on and off Capri and accomplish your Pompeii visit or have you ditched those plans?

Five nights is too many (IMHO) unless you plan to snooze away the days on a sun lounge with a cocktail. Capri's own sights are pretty much done in two days. This website may help you.

http://www.capri.net/

Blueeyedcod

We are very happy with our itinerary. Not planning to see Pompeii or Amalfi Coast on this visit. Lounging poolside with a cocktail sounds like a perfect day - every day.

Best Regards,
DMiclat
Washington DC

You are going to have a ball. I think more time on Capri and less hopping around is the right mix. Yesterday I ran into a friend who spent 2 nights in Sorrento, 2 nights on Capri and 2 nights in Amalfi. She said she wished they had just stayed in Capri the whole time. You will have a ball and I think 5 nights will be perfect...and you will have time to relax. Looking forward to your TR next year!

Thank you Cathleenmarie for all of your insight, guidance, and encouragement! Very much appreciated!

Best Regards,
DMiclat
Washington DC

Myself and my husband are travelling Europe for 6 weeks, May and half of June next year we will also be celebrating our 25th wedding anniversary, have a great vacation!

For good dining on Capri, Il Geranio with it's incredible views, Ristorante Monzu at Punta Tragara and, in town, Giorgio's. If you decide to see Pompeii, ferry to Sorrento, cab to train. Easy. Have a wonderful celebration!

Good morning Juleslove and HappyTrvlr

Thank you so much for the kind replies and well wishes. We will be sure to dine at those Capri restaurants!

Juleslove - Have a super, wonderful 25th anniversary trip!

Best Regards,
DMiclat
Washington DC