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Old May 31st, 2004, 05:33 PM
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Scotland itnerary advice

It seems like most fodorites have more energy or time in Scotland than we could... Need help...
We are flying into Edinburgh, will have 5 full days in Scotland, plan to spent the first 2 days in Edinburgh to get over the jetlag before hitting the other side of the road...
Now questions:
1. I contacted Traquair Castle and Melville Castle, and was exited to know that they all have rooms. Seems like staying in Traquair is a hot thing to do.
2. But should we go north than south? Everyone talks about St. Andrews and Inverness.
Would like to get a suggested itinerary? Thanks.
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Old May 31st, 2004, 07:24 PM
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2fly - you just have to bite the bullet and decide one or two places outside of Edinburgh you'd like to visit. I lived in the UK for several years, get back once or twice every year and have been to Scotland 20 or more times and still have not seen everything.

You can't pick wrong - but you do have to pick.

The Borders and Traquair House are wonderful. St Andrews and Fife are wonderful. The west and the isles are wonderful. (see a theme here?) The north is wonderful - but Inverness is NOT wonderful. It isn't a terrible place but in your terribly short time frame I would not spend one minute there.

Staying in Traquair House would be a highlight of any trip -- but the Borders is not what many think of as "typical" Scottish scenery. They are really lovely but not dramatic like a lot of the Highlands/Islands.

If your 5 days begins and end in Edinburgh here are three itineraries that would work (but so would a hundred other routes) :

1) Arrive Edinburgh and stay 2 nights (no car). On third day pick up rental car and head north into Fife for 1 night. See St Andrews, Crail/Anstruther/Pittinweem, Falkland Palace/Garden.

Then head up into Aberdeenshire for 2 nights. See Dunnottar Castle, Stonehaven, Crathes Castle/Gardens, Deeside, Balmoral, Braemar, Glenshee and back to Edinburgh.

2) First 2 days in Edinburgh. Pick up car and head south into the borders - stay 2 nights at Traquair if it fits in your budget. See St Abbs head, Melrose/Dryburgh Abbeys, Abbotsford, Floors Castle, maybe Holy Island, a woolen mill (see them weaving tartans, etc). Then the last night somewhere in east Lothian -- see Tantallon/Direlton castles, North Berwick. Back to Edinburgh.

3) Edinburgh 2 nights - then NW into the Trossachs for 1 or 2 nights. See Stirling, Inchmahome Priory, Queen Elizabeth Forest Park, waterfalls, etc. Then you have one night to play with - you could travel over to Fife/St Andrews, or up north of Perth for more Highland scenery, Blair Atholl, Lochs Tay/Earn. Then back to Edinburgh.

Many will probably tell you to go to Skye or far up north. But if you want to actually see a lot and not spend hours in the car you are better off staying w/i 100 miles of Edinburgh give or take a few miles. - but that covers a LOT of Scotland.
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Old Jun 1st, 2004, 09:22 PM
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Thanks so much, janis.
I prefer the 3rd route - covers more of the places I was thinking about. I looked at some websites for accommodation along the way. (I guess reservation is essential.) Do you think Stirling and St Andrews are good cities to stay in? Just by looking at the map, it really seems like that we need to stay at another place in Trossachs, so many things to see...
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Old Jun 1st, 2004, 10:54 PM
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I wouldn't stay IN Stirling -- but rather somewhere west or a little NW of there. In/near Aberfoyle, Callander, Port of Menteith, Thornhill. These are all small villages (except for Callander which is a bustling little town). There are a LOT of B&Bs in this area and it is convenient for both Stirling and for farther north like Loch Earn or even a jaunt up to/from glencoe.

As for in Fife - I really like St Andrews. But I usually stay in one of the fishing villages. I especially like Crail. It has a lovely little harbor, some good, economical B&Bs and is convenient to St Andrews, Falkland Palace and the other fishing villges. This is one B&B I really enjoy www.caipliehouse.com/I've stayed there 4 or 5 times (through three different owners) over the years. Not fancy but REALLY good food and good value.
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Old Jun 3rd, 2004, 07:46 AM
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Thanks very much janis. A few more questions:
1. How do u usually book B&B's? I found a few website. But they are either not cheaper than the deals offered by the B&B's themselves, or I don't know the reliability of the website.
2. I am having a hard time finding a place in Trossachs. Can you help? Thanks.
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Old Jun 3rd, 2004, 08:53 AM
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I almost always book directly w/ indvidual B&Bs - either on their own websites or by phone if they don't have a site/e-mail. Some don't have an individual website but do have links to their own e-mail from a general B&B site.

Where are you looking in the Trossachs? If you do a simple google web search for "Callander bed and breakfast", "Aberfoyle B&B", etc you will find a TON of listings. I have some to point you towards - but when I'm in that area I almost always rent a cottage or flat for a week at a time so I've only stayed in a couple of B&Bs or hotels.
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Old Jun 3rd, 2004, 09:35 AM
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Some of the websites that I found useful for our just completed trip to Scotland:

http://www.visitscottishheartlands.com/
http://www.visit-lochlomond.com/accom/index.cfm
http://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/
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Old Jun 5th, 2004, 10:23 AM
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Janis and bettyk, thank you very much for your help. I finally found a couples of places in Trossachs that have rooms available - after about 20 email enquiries!
Accommodation in Fife was also not too easy to find. But thanks to janis' insider info, Caiplie House worked out fine. Janis, how long drive it is from Crail to Edinburgh airport? Is it an easy drive? We are going to catch the 10am flight.
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Old Jun 5th, 2004, 03:19 PM
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You'll enjoy Caiplie. Not a fancy place at all but very well appointed and good food. Be sure to walk down to the harbor at least once. Ask about the tide schedule. When the tide is in the boats are floating up near middle of the sea wall with a walkway all around -- and when the tide is out the boats are nestled in the sand at the bottom.

The drive from Crail to the airport is not bad - less than 50 miles with a nice drive along the coast for the first 1/2 and then from Kirkaldy you have a choice of going the quick way on the A92 or stick to the coast for a more scenic drive.

A little less than an hour the quicker route, a little more than an hour if you stick to the coast all the way to the bridge.

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Old Jul 6th, 2004, 01:27 PM
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Hi janis, thank you so much for your help. We had a great time in Scotland. We managed to cover a lot of your option 2 & 3. The super long days definitely helped a lot. And B&B's turned out to be the best accommondation!
So when is your next trip?
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Old Jul 6th, 2004, 01:33 PM
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Hello 2fly.
If you get the chance could you post some comments on the bed and breakfasts you used? I'm gathering information for 2005 and would be grateful for additional information.
Thanks.
Lisa
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Old Jul 6th, 2004, 01:41 PM
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great to hear you had a good time. I just got back from a 12 day trip myself (just started the trip report) -- unfortunately this time I got no farther north than Primrose Hill in London.

next trip to Scotland may have to wait til next spring.
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Old Jul 6th, 2004, 01:55 PM
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LisainSA, plan ahead! Good for you.
Here are the ones I stayed or heard about:
1. Edinburgh
- I stayed at 22 Murrayfield Gardens - Fodor's has a star on it. It is indeed a very nice B&B. The owner has great taste and the place is excellently equiped. But I probably wouldn't want to stay there the next time. 1) The guests are all Americans. The talks were natually about the states. 2) The host was very professional. He probably did hotel business before. Not quite the type I expected from B&B. (Hey only personally preference. The host is a very nice guy.)
- Castle View Guest House - I heard some positive things about it. Hey it is a castle!

2. Trossachs
- www.altskeith.com - We enjoy our stay there 100%. First of all, the location is great, easy access to the Trossachs, Queen Elizabeth Forest Park, Loch Lomond and other lochs. And it is on Loch Ard with a fantastic view! Second, the host is super informative and nice. In the morning he would tell us the things we need to know about the places we are going to, like what time is good to be there, how to get a discount, etc. He would even make phone calls for our discounts. At the end of the day (when he was done with cooking breakfast and cleaning the room), he would spend some good time telling us Scottish stories of the places or things we are interested. He also has many books and magazines in the living room for the tourists.

3. Crail
- www.caipliehouse.com/ - recommended by janis. Somehow I was not able to stay in Crail. But I didn't walk by the place. Good location and short walk to the beach.

These are just the B&B's in Scotland I know. If you like other info, let me know.

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Old Jul 7th, 2004, 07:34 AM
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Hello 2fly and thanks for the info and you're generous offer to provide more.
Our planning for the Scotland leg of our great European adventure is still in its infancy.
Loch Lomond is a definite. When I was about seven or eight years old we lived outside Glasgow in a place called Neilston and my parents took us to Loch Lomond. Our wily labrador Sam got off his lead and my sister and I had to race around the loch to tether him again. It was a happy, if a little exhausting, day.
More questions for you, Shelia and all the other helpful folk on Scotland soon.
Thanks again.
Lisa
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Old Jul 7th, 2004, 09:21 AM
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I'm an American living and working in Scotland for 5 years now. Don't miss Glasgow! Edinburgh may be the country's capital, but Glasgow was recently rated one of the hottest cities in Europe to visit. Glasgow has much history and the best shopping! As does Edinburgh, Glasgow offers a city bus tour that I highly recommend. It also boasts the famous Glasgow School of Art (designed by Rennie Mackintosh)which you can tour. If you happen to visit on a weekend and want some real "Glasgwegian" flavor then go to the Barras. It is an open flee market (on London Road near the People's Palace). Bargains galore and I know you'll enjoy listening to the Glasgow dialect. Glasgow is also the gateway to the highlands and Loch Lomond is only a short drive from the city center.
Enjoy your holiday. No matter where you visit you'll be sure to have a fantastic time. The Scottish people are so friendly and welcoming to all who visit.
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