Camogli, Sorrento or Amalfi? Ekscruncy and others pls chime in!
Jun 18th, 2009, 08:43 AM
#21
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ibelgray -- MOLTO IMPORTANTE
You do NOT want to be anywhere between Portovenere and Genova during the Salone di Nautica
http://www.genoaboatshow.com/
You do NOT want to be anywhere between Portovenere and Genova during the Salone di Nautica
http://www.genoaboatshow.com/
Jun 18th, 2009, 09:53 AM
#22
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Lordy! That's exactly when I was thinking of going. Thank you so much for the warning. Will either pick a different place or different dates.
Your descriptions are great, Zeppole. It's awfully useful to hear from an actual resident.
Your descriptions are great, Zeppole. It's awfully useful to hear from an actual resident.
Jun 18th, 2009, 11:00 AM
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Ibelgray,
I haven't read the whole discussion and I can see that our hotel requirements are different, but it looks like we agree on the definition of undesirably "resorty".
I've stayed in SML and really liked it.
I've stayed in Priano, twice, and loved it, completely non-resorty. I found Positano the opposite, way too resorty.
Also, I have not stayed in Sorrento, but have passed through several times via train, bus and boat. I would never want to stay there.
I haven't read the whole discussion and I can see that our hotel requirements are different, but it looks like we agree on the definition of undesirably "resorty".
I've stayed in SML and really liked it.
I've stayed in Priano, twice, and loved it, completely non-resorty. I found Positano the opposite, way too resorty.
Also, I have not stayed in Sorrento, but have passed through several times via train, bus and boat. I would never want to stay there.
Jun 18th, 2009, 12:45 PM
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Ibelgray:
I would also love to find this "ideal town!" You and I seem to be of similar minds on this. Although I will say that I really enjoyed Amalfi and Camogli even though both are very tourist oriented. And we adored Ortygia and were less enthusiastic about Taormina. In fact, we were a bit turned off by the tourist crowds in Taormina--in early May!
I am so interested in this subject--if we do not get great ideas here, perhaps we ought to start a new thread with the parameters in the title.
Have you visited Ischia?
I have been investigating Puglia for a possible trip next spring and would love to compare finds with you! Two towns that might be worth looking into (or at least I think so, based on my small amount of research) are Otranto and Vieste; I am sure there are others but for some reason those two sounded appealing to me. Both are working towns, have reportedly lovely beaches nearby and I doubt if either one is beseiged by the fanny-pack crowd. And both appear to have an array of hotels in various price ranges. Both will be packed full in August, but should be very good in early October.
Perhaps someone familiar with Puglia will offer opinions on other candidates. (???)
I was also interested in Maratea but I think this will be too tourist-ed for you, based on what you wrote in the OP. But perhaps off season, which would certainly include October....(again, ???)
I would also love to find this "ideal town!" You and I seem to be of similar minds on this. Although I will say that I really enjoyed Amalfi and Camogli even though both are very tourist oriented. And we adored Ortygia and were less enthusiastic about Taormina. In fact, we were a bit turned off by the tourist crowds in Taormina--in early May!
I am so interested in this subject--if we do not get great ideas here, perhaps we ought to start a new thread with the parameters in the title.
Have you visited Ischia?
I have been investigating Puglia for a possible trip next spring and would love to compare finds with you! Two towns that might be worth looking into (or at least I think so, based on my small amount of research) are Otranto and Vieste; I am sure there are others but for some reason those two sounded appealing to me. Both are working towns, have reportedly lovely beaches nearby and I doubt if either one is beseiged by the fanny-pack crowd. And both appear to have an array of hotels in various price ranges. Both will be packed full in August, but should be very good in early October.
Perhaps someone familiar with Puglia will offer opinions on other candidates. (???)
I was also interested in Maratea but I think this will be too tourist-ed for you, based on what you wrote in the OP. But perhaps off season, which would certainly include October....(again, ???)
Jun 18th, 2009, 01:37 PM
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Jun 18th, 2009, 01:43 PM
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Wildly conflicting reviews, but that's how people feel about the entire town:
http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserR...ECK_RATES_CONT
http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserR...ECK_RATES_CONT
Jun 18th, 2009, 06:20 PM
#28
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Ekscrunchy, Otranto and Vieste look pretty cool, I agree. So does Ostuni. I've looked at all the hotels on i-escape (my trusted source for hotels) and none of them looks just right. The nicest ones, as usual, are too isolated.
If there's a perfect place to be found, I'll probably find it. I am an obsessive googler. Cross-checking everything. I'd love to be a happy hippy with a backpack, landing wherever, but I never will be.
Very nice to know that you liked both Camogli (actually I knew this from your trip report) and Praiano.
Zeppole, if we hadn't just been in Sicily 2 years ago, I'd go back to Modica. Probably will at some point - but I love to go new places. I know it sounds like I'm looking for Modica part deux, but I was really putting it out there as an indicator of what I like.
I wonder if we would like Naples. Didn't care much for Palermo, though the food was fantastic. Think they're comparable?
If there's a perfect place to be found, I'll probably find it. I am an obsessive googler. Cross-checking everything. I'd love to be a happy hippy with a backpack, landing wherever, but I never will be.
Very nice to know that you liked both Camogli (actually I knew this from your trip report) and Praiano.
Zeppole, if we hadn't just been in Sicily 2 years ago, I'd go back to Modica. Probably will at some point - but I love to go new places. I know it sounds like I'm looking for Modica part deux, but I was really putting it out there as an indicator of what I like.
I wonder if we would like Naples. Didn't care much for Palermo, though the food was fantastic. Think they're comparable?
Jun 18th, 2009, 06:22 PM
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ps: Ekscruncy, I know it's off-topic but I have to say I had some of the best meals of my life in Ortygia. We went to the same restaurant 3 nights in a row: L'Ancora. Wondering if you went while you were there.
Jun 18th, 2009, 06:51 PM
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Just a note: I was in SML just before and during the Genoa Boat Show, the town became very crowded with leisure boating/yachting people overnight, the atmosphere changed, became a bit frantic and it was less enjoyable.
Jun 19th, 2009, 08:37 AM
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Lbelgray:
No, I did not dine at L'Ancora, but I certainly will keep it on my list for the future! We were there for 2 nights, at the Domus Mariae, which we loved. (I highly recommend this hotel for anyone headed to Ortygia).
Our best meal was at Don Camillo; I had spaghetti with ricci for the first time and adored it. None of the renditions that I've had since then (in NYC) have come close to the perfection of that dish. I had another pasta first at Le Baronie--spaghetti al limone:
http://www.ristorantelebaronie.com/
We also ate, lunch, at Da Mariano; I remember being a little disappointed, but not much more about the meal.
I did not get to Modica, so maybe I need to point my travel compass in that direction sometime soon. Sicily has a big advantage for me, in that it is one of the few regions that might be lovely in January, when we like to take one week.....
I know what you mean about obsessive Googling! I have been at it for days. I have to take a peek at I-Escape; that is a good site but I often forget to check it. My days of "no reservations" are also long past, I am afraid!
I will keep checking and see what you come up with, and I will also share any thoughts...
Maratea seems to have a good supply of nice hotels, but again, I think it may be too tourist-oriented, given your parameters. I do like the idea of exploring that part of Basilicata, though. I just received my LP guide to Puglia/Basilicata; the writer calls it the last "undiscovered" region of Italy! (Referring to the inland areas, especially, where good hotels are in short supply!)
No, I did not dine at L'Ancora, but I certainly will keep it on my list for the future! We were there for 2 nights, at the Domus Mariae, which we loved. (I highly recommend this hotel for anyone headed to Ortygia).
Our best meal was at Don Camillo; I had spaghetti with ricci for the first time and adored it. None of the renditions that I've had since then (in NYC) have come close to the perfection of that dish. I had another pasta first at Le Baronie--spaghetti al limone:
http://www.ristorantelebaronie.com/
We also ate, lunch, at Da Mariano; I remember being a little disappointed, but not much more about the meal.
I did not get to Modica, so maybe I need to point my travel compass in that direction sometime soon. Sicily has a big advantage for me, in that it is one of the few regions that might be lovely in January, when we like to take one week.....
I know what you mean about obsessive Googling! I have been at it for days. I have to take a peek at I-Escape; that is a good site but I often forget to check it. My days of "no reservations" are also long past, I am afraid!
I will keep checking and see what you come up with, and I will also share any thoughts...
Maratea seems to have a good supply of nice hotels, but again, I think it may be too tourist-oriented, given your parameters. I do like the idea of exploring that part of Basilicata, though. I just received my LP guide to Puglia/Basilicata; the writer calls it the last "undiscovered" region of Italy! (Referring to the inland areas, especially, where good hotels are in short supply!)
Jun 22nd, 2009, 12:36 PM
#34
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You all rock. Right now I'm thinking Casa Angelina in Praiano.
On the fence about Naples, but might have to spend some time there just for the food.
Ekscrunchy, L'Ancora is on my list of places I'd fly to just to have that meal again. So is Da Felice in Rome.
I'm keeping my options open, in case you (or I) come up with that perfect place in Puglia/Basilicata.
I'll keep everyone posted!
On the fence about Naples, but might have to spend some time there just for the food.
Ekscrunchy, L'Ancora is on my list of places I'd fly to just to have that meal again. So is Da Felice in Rome.
I'm keeping my options open, in case you (or I) come up with that perfect place in Puglia/Basilicata.
I'll keep everyone posted!
Jun 22nd, 2009, 01:48 PM
#35
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GREAT! So now I have to add a revisit to Ortygia to my "future" list!!! I can combine it with Modica!
Yes, let's keep the exchange open as we do further research.
Maybe you could do a couple of days here along with Praiano; from what I've read, the food around Vico is pretty great. I have this on my list, too:
http://www.hotelcapolagala.com/english/hotel.htm
Yes, let's keep the exchange open as we do further research.
Maybe you could do a couple of days here along with Praiano; from what I've read, the food around Vico is pretty great. I have this on my list, too:
http://www.hotelcapolagala.com/english/hotel.htm
Jun 23rd, 2009, 05:28 AM
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in October SML will not have many tourists I think that October will be cool and perhaps have light rain or mist I thought that SML was a somewhat larger town - I stayed at the Hotel Miramare and the rooms with seaviews are in front which would be noisy but not in October maybe you should consider Portifino
Jun 23rd, 2009, 09:28 PM
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Haha - Ekscrunchy, I just started thinking: hmmm. Maybe 5 days on the AC and 5 in Puglia. I googled "getting from puglia to amalfi" and your thread from 2007 came up. I see you definitely go through the same deliberations I do.
I heard good things about Otranto and got more intrigued. Hotel Palazzo Papaleo looks pretty nice.
I heard good things about Otranto and got more intrigued. Hotel Palazzo Papaleo looks pretty nice.
Jun 24th, 2009, 08:03 AM
#39
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ibelgray,
I've only driven through Praiano, so I'm not trying to discouraging you from going, but my impression driving through was that it was quite a small town without pedestrian access to neighboring towns other than by using the sidewalk-free Amalfi drive (which, having walked on that road, I'd not look forward to doing again, especially after dinner). Given your description of how you like to spend your evenings, you might want to check out what's walkable. (Campagna plus Puglia indeed sounds marvelous, but I would probably go for Vietri sul Mare.)
http://www.italytraveller.com/en/c/hotel-raito
http://www.activehotels.com/1/fr2/indexb1561.html
ekscrunchy,
I really enjoyed my dinner at Fattoria delle Torre in Modica, which offers a tasting menu focused on the local Mexican-like chocolate (featured in every course). In fact, I enjoyed the food there so much, I ate my husband's entire dinner as well as my own, since he became the victim of his allergies that evening, and lost his appetite due to a migraine. I also enjoyed my stay in L'Orangerie in Modica.
http://www.lorangerie.it/english/
romatravel,
I agree October can be spectacular in Santa Margherita Ligure but the boat show usually leaves non-italian speakers in the dust when it comes to getting optimal service in hotels and restaurants. It's intensely busy with visitors, especially since Santa Margherita Ligure is a yacht harbor.
I've only driven through Praiano, so I'm not trying to discouraging you from going, but my impression driving through was that it was quite a small town without pedestrian access to neighboring towns other than by using the sidewalk-free Amalfi drive (which, having walked on that road, I'd not look forward to doing again, especially after dinner). Given your description of how you like to spend your evenings, you might want to check out what's walkable. (Campagna plus Puglia indeed sounds marvelous, but I would probably go for Vietri sul Mare.)
http://www.italytraveller.com/en/c/hotel-raito
http://www.activehotels.com/1/fr2/indexb1561.html
ekscrunchy,
I really enjoyed my dinner at Fattoria delle Torre in Modica, which offers a tasting menu focused on the local Mexican-like chocolate (featured in every course). In fact, I enjoyed the food there so much, I ate my husband's entire dinner as well as my own, since he became the victim of his allergies that evening, and lost his appetite due to a migraine. I also enjoyed my stay in L'Orangerie in Modica.
http://www.lorangerie.it/english/
romatravel,
I agree October can be spectacular in Santa Margherita Ligure but the boat show usually leaves non-italian speakers in the dust when it comes to getting optimal service in hotels and restaurants. It's intensely busy with visitors, especially since Santa Margherita Ligure is a yacht harbor.
Jun 24th, 2009, 08:29 AM
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ekscrunchy,
I misspelled Fattoria delle Torri, and here is a link explaining about the chocolate and how it is used at the restaurant in dishes such as rabbit cooked in chocolate:
http://siciliamo.blogspot.com/2007/0...chocolate.html
I misspelled Fattoria delle Torri, and here is a link explaining about the chocolate and how it is used at the restaurant in dishes such as rabbit cooked in chocolate:
http://siciliamo.blogspot.com/2007/0...chocolate.html
