Camargue--Worth It? Like Everglades???--Opinions please
 

We are contemplating a cycling trip in Provence, and we are looking for easier routes without lots of hill climbing. Many of the easier trips seem to go from Arles down to the Camargue for a day or two, but I really don't know if the Camargue is something that would interest us. And, as we all know, lots of travel choices are made on the basis of comparisons of where people have already been.

We do like nature and watery environments. However, we've been in lots of different places in the US and Mexico where there are salt water flats, birds, flamingos, salt pans, marshes etc. For a European cycling trip we are most interested in seeing the man-made structures rather than seeking out a purely nature trip because we can do those at home in the US. If it truly is lovely and not just boring and repetitious, we'd definitely consider it. And, I am pretty apprehensive since a guidebook I've read compares the Camargue to the Everglades--a place I probably wouldn't choose for a cycling trip.

So, what are your thoughts?

I've been several times to Camargue - last time in a coach, was fun.
I love the area.
Never been to the everglades so can't compare.

But no alligators in France.

I think it's a fascinating area. I especially like Aigues-Mortes, a remarkable and historical antique village with some of the most impressive city walls in Europe. Nearby Stes. Maries de la Mer, the scene of the gypsy pilgrimage, is also very interesting.

Like the Everglades? Not sure, more built up I'd say, but with a terrific history and culture - wild white horses, black bulls, flamingos... pretty cool place IMO.

Except for the Clearwater beaches and North Gulf Coast, I am not a Florida fan, but we love the Camargue area. As a matter of fact, we spent three days there and would like to return, especially for one of the festivals.

It certainly is not the dramatic landscape of Northern Provence or places like the AC in Italy, and the landscape is flat and with salt flats, water, birds, etc. if you have seen a lot of that, maybe it would be boring. However, we have travelled through all the lowlands of SC, the everglades of Florida, etc. and thought the Camargue had a very different flavor. It is not at all tropical, perhaps a little more on the marshy side, but lots of farm land too.

So, what is different?
The walled city of Aigues Mortes is fantastic. Yes, it is crowded and touristy during the day, but at night, you almost want to tiptoe because it is so quiet your footsteps echo and may be the only sound you hear. The history of this city is incredible. It is the place where soldiers readied and departed for the crusades. How it was built and how it came to be built is an amazing bit of history. The main square is lovely in the evenings with children playing, a musician or two, and OK restaurants. DH liked the food. I did not care for the strong meats, but loved the sweet stuff.

We stayed inside the walls, a place built in the 1200s. Nothing like that in Florida! It was so neat, we planned on one night, but stayed three.

Outside the city, flocks of flamingoes were beautiful and the wild horses were pretty, but I loved the Ranches or "mas." That area is where cowboys originated, where chaps were first used, etc. Though you can visit, they are still very much working ranches. The young people (cowboys and cowgirls) that I saw on the ranches, were gorgeous. They looked strong and glowing from being outdoors.

So, It is not a dramatic place, but I thought it was a unique and special place that needs time to appreciate.

Oh, we had none when we were there in the Fall, but some times of year, there may be mosquitoes.

You can't really cycle thru the Camargue I believe - it's a swamp and national park and yes a lot of skeeters often - towns like Aigues Mortes are not really in the Camargue - I have biked all around France and I would not be attracted to the Camargue itself - the area and towns around it like Aigues-Mortes yes. Camargue is know for pony trips into the wilds to see the wild horses of the Camargue and flamigos - pretty the same as Everglades sans the wild horses and alligators.

Far better places that are fairly flat in France to cycle thru IMO.

The Camargue has nothing in common with the Everglades. There are many portions of this area that are flat - like the "pampas" in Argentina - and there are some swampy areas, but not a lot. We have driven through by car several times, but never on bikes.

Most people go to see the walled city of Carcassonne, Aigues Morte, Sainte-Marie-de-la-Mer (if there is a festival), etc. You should check the tourist website to see what's going on while you're there. A lot depends on the time of year you'll be going - absolutely do not recommend going during the Summer. We did see the flamingoes migrating one year, which was wonderful.

If you want to see the salt harvest, you can Google when this takes place in the Camargue. There are some organized tours now - you can't just wander around in the protected salt basins.

manouche are there bike or walking paths that could accommodate bikes that go into the wilds of the Camarge - like to where the wild ponies are? Just curious - there are dirt tracks for horses but is it possible to cycle thru then or just on maain busy roads ringing it?

Merci.

manouche? Carcassonne isn't in the Camargue, it's about 200 km away.

There are no towns in the Camargue - it's a swamp.

There is the Camargue (with National Park) and the Petite Camargue where Aigues Mortes is located. If you google biking in the Camargue, you will find lots of info about biking there as well as horseback riding, boating, etc.

There was also a very long thread about it on Fodors a couple of years ago. I think it was, is it worth it to visit the Camargue or something like that. You might also google some images. Read about and look at pics of Aigues Mortes. That might help more. If you have only a few days, I say to see Aix and Arles, etc. first. I have seen a good many walled cities and did think Aigues Mortes quite unique.

I appreciate all of the different responses, and I now have some ideas about whether it would appeal or not. Many of you liked the towns and their surroundings, and I think that is what would most appeal to us rather than just seeing rather endless marshy areas. (Interesting to hear Sassafrassas' comparisons to S.C. lowlands and the Everglades since we have also been both places).

So, if you know the area, would #1 be the best bet for a combo of interesting towns to visit and interesting surroundings to cycle through on the way to and from towns?

1. Coming from Arles-- "Enter the Camargue, passing white horses, fields of black bulls and shimmering salt lakes where pink flamingos often feed. Take a break in the seaside resort of St Maries de la Mer before continuing towards the medieval fortress of Aigues Mortes. [next day] Cycle along quiet streets to the cultural city of Nimes."

2. Another tour, also coming from Arles:
"Small paths take you into the unique nature reserve. In Mejanes with the Arena you have the opportunity of travelling with a small train through unspoilt nature and to admire, with some luck, flamingos and wild bulls. The route takes you on almost traffic-free paths back to Arles [next day] The route takes you from Arles through the region of the so-called small Camargue. The white Camargue horses and wild bulls line the path to St. Gilles. A visit to the world-famous abbey with the Romanesque portal which belongs to world heritage sites is worthwhile. You continue through delightful rice fields and vineyards to the destination of this stage, the city Beaucaire/Tarascon."

3. "Visit Arles, then ride through the Camargue to the lake of Vaccarès, observe the rare birds, then to Saintes Maries de la Mer on the beach. Overnight in Saintes-Maries [Next day] Saintes Maries to St. Gilles."

By the way, if we do this, it would be an October trip so not too hot or too many mosquitoes (I hope).


Thanks much.

The main town of the Camargue is obviously Les Saintes Maries de la Mer, but Aigues Mortes is more interesting. Lots of people cycle through the Camargue, but I'm not sure if "a day or two" will do the job.

The official park brochure in English should give you a lot of ideas: http://tinyurl.com/pjjus8g

I made a report about Aigues Mortes a couple of years ago: http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...e-camargue.cfm

If going to Les Saintes Maries de la Mer, stop by the bird sanctuary which has a variety of birds, including flamingos.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/mksfca...7624404539441/

There is also an old farmhouse which has been turned into a museum of the Camargue.

PalenQ - we were in a car, didn't see any bike or walking paths where we were but we did see lots of white horses. They aren't running wild but are protected by fences.

I wouldn't spend much time in Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer unless there's a festival. Aigues Morte and Nimes are both great though.

Hi julies

The best easy cycling I have found in the area is around Le Lavandou along the coast there, there is cycle lane and the scenery is very special. I did it with my wife (you can hire bikes in town if you like) who hardly cycles at all, she loved it.

We did pop the bikes on the car and take them to join another nearby cycle track which runs not far from Bormes les Mimosas down to the Camargue area and enjoyed seeing the flat lands, bird life etc but really its not that great (unless your a bird watcher in which case its perfect). I can't say I've been to the everglades but I'm pretty sure the Camargue does not compare. There are lots of mossies (they seem bigger and nastier over there).

I've spent quite a lot of time around the Camargue and whilst it has its interest it gets a bit samey after a while, though I like to go back now and again. My wife (who's French) doesn't rate it.

Best

Peter H

If you need pictures of Aigues-Mortes or Saintes Maries de la Mer to judge your interest, you can find them in my Provence phototravelogue of a few years ago at https://goo.gl/photos/MFMqTG5KsFpWED388. (If the captions don't come up when you click on a photo, just click on the "i" in the white circle.)

Here's a picture of <i>Petanque</i> players in Aigues Mortes that I took from the city walls on Christmas Eve around 40 years ago. http://gardyloo.us/076b.JPG

cycling in this area can be REALLY hot in summer - May or September or early June would be sweet - it can really really get hot IME in southern France in summer.

Yes, I would never ever even think about this idea in summer.

A quick question about Aigues Mortes. Is this whole experience Disney like and touristy like Carcassone? The first time we visited Carcassone we weren't impressed but wondered if the crummy weather had colored our opinions. So, we tried it on another trip when the weather was better. It still left us cold.

Thanks for the photos and the tip about Le Lavandou.