Bursa/Iznik
 

I will have about a week to spare based in Istanbul mid-October. Wondering if Bursa and Iznik are worth a few days by ferry. I see kja and othercelebi discussed this a few years ago. Any further comments please? Maybe I should add that I travel by public transport and I'm more interested in cultural stuff than beaches. Thanks all!

gertie,

here's my trip report :

http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...znik-nicea.cfm

For public transport, take the same ferry from Yenikapi and turn right when you come out of the landing area. There is a "dolmus" which runs on the hour. If the Iznik dolmus is full or has left, take a more frequent one to Orhangazi and another one to Iznik from Orhangazi.

You do not need a car to cover the town.

Let me know when you plan to be there.

here are some of our youtube presentations on Iznik :

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OG0m2Y9kmHI

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SVCsqE1Bb0I

Thank you so much OC. I can't believe what a treasure trove I have found. I thought I was just looking at the place of the Nicene Creed. Those are your own videos and I guess you have done a lot of research in the area. This has just gone from possible to a must-see.

Any recommendations for somewhere to stay? It will have to be in the centre as I don't drive.

I gather you are not such a fan of Bursa? Would you say I should base myself in Iznik or Bursa? And how many days total?

I will be there mid-October at the end of my trip to the stans. I'm intending to get flights with Turkish airlines and treat myself to a week or so based in Istanbul again.

As you may know from previous comments, I was very glad that I visited both.
I thought Bursa's Muradiye Complex magnificent, not to mention various mosques and markets there. And I was fascinated to see a bit of a shadow puppet performance in Bursa, having seen it previously in Xi'an, at the other end of the Silk Road. I also enjoyed Iznik, which is quite a different place entirely. I found several things of interest (to me) in Iznik, and many more places of interest (to me) in Bursa, but if staying in one or the other, I would stay in Iznik -- I enjoy a glass of wine with my dinner, and that was difficult to do, as a solo female traveler, in Bursa. (Actually, I didn't manage it at all, but maybe I started looking too late, or maybe things have changed.) In Iznik, I stayed at the Camlik Motel, which served my needs, but gets mixed reviews. Hope that helps!

Thanks kja. That helps a lot. How many days did you spend in total for Iznik and Bursa? There seems quite a lot to see. And as a solo woman who also likes a glass of wine, maybe I should also stay in Iznik. What was the problem with Bursa? I have travelled extensively in Turkey and apart from the extreme eastern edge, have never had a problem getting booze:)

I spent 1 night in Iznik, arriving in time to watch the sun set over the lake and enjoy a relaxing dinner at my hotel. After dinner, I sat on "my" balcony with a view of the lake and the lovely scent of pines as I caught up on my journal and wrote postcards. I explored Iznik after a relatively early breakfast the next day, and left Iznik in early afternoon. At least some archeological sites have opened since I was there (2012), so in today's world, I might want a bit more time.

I also spent just 1 night in Bursa -- I got there in time to explore for a few hours before everything closed, and spent until mid-afternoon exploring the next day before taking a ferry that got me to Istanbul in time to check in before dinner. FWIW, I spent part of that first late afternoon in Bursa shopping -- I bought gifts for family and friends in Bursa's silk market, completing almost all of my planned shopping for the trip in just an hour or so. I was pleased to find, while in Istanbul, that the prices I was able to negotiate for silk scarves and shawls in Bursa were substantially lower than anything I could achieve through bargaining in Istanbul. (Unfortunately, I neglected one intended female recipient while in Bursa, and so shopped for her in Istanbul -- the best price I found for a nearly identical silk shawl in Istanbul was nearly 3 times what I paid in Bursa. Maybe I could have done better....)

I can't say that I rushed in either city, but I also certainly did <b>not</b> linger -- I kept moving at a pace that worked for me, given that I had done some overly compulsive planning in advance and took no breaks between breakfast and dinner. So I would describe the time I spent as being close to the bare minimum for what I saw.

Bursa was the ONLY place I visited in my 3.5 week trip to Western Turkey in 2012 in which I had trouble finding a glass of wine, and since Bursa was my last stop before Istanbul, I must admit that I was ill-prepared for the difficulty. (You can find my full itinerary in my trip report.) IIRC, when I finished exploring for the day, I went to my hotel to freshen and then, in a drenching rain, walked to the restaurant I thought might suit my needs best. Closed! As in, it doesn't exit any more. :-( OK, that's why I always have a back-up plan, so off I set. Oh, no! Also closed, this time because of the hour.! :-( I decided to go back to my hotel for advice, but checked several restaurants en route -- none would serve alcohol to a woman. Once at my hotel, I was given a suggestion, but with the stated caveat that they didn't know if women would be served alcohol there. They were not. It was, by then, getting quite late, so I ended up agreeing to take a table at the only place that I could then find that was still open. It was the only place where I dined in my entire trip through Turkey where the food was not to my liking (it was a bit too greasy), but at least I ate something! (And for the record, I found just about every other meal I ate in Turkey to be a delight.)

I always find pleasure in reviving old memories in service of fellow travelers -- especially those who know how to enjoy themselves on the road, as you do! -- so don't hesitate to let me know if I can help with anything else, gertie!

Camlik has good location.

The following is close to Camlik but have not checked it yet. Can do so soon and let you know:
seyirbutik

This hotel, built a few years ago, never operated initially; but seems to have been refurbished and started operating. A good location also. Will also check.

grand-hotel-belekoma


This will give me a chance to join my wife in cycling to town (less than two miles) and get some needed exercise when we get to Iznik in the next week or so.

Also an incentive to update my old trip report and post it on my blog with photographs.

There are some interesting natural sites outside Iznik with a few archeological remnants and lovely villages, canyons, etc.

The hill overlooking the city with old mausoleum is recommended.

I wish KJA had taken my advice and had the time to visit our compound when in Iznik, where you can get better wine than anywhere else in Iznik as well as much better food (Eser and I have been advising the restaurant and helped develop the recent menu). It is also a unique architectural & landscaping development which takes Turkish small town life to unimagined heights.

If we are not there, just give my wife's name at security at the entrance and you will be permitted inside. Walk straight down towards the lake and turn right. The restaurant is about 3-400 feet on your right.

If you are interested in Turkish football, there will also be league matches Weekend evenings after 7 or 8 PM on a projected screen at the bar.

Good luck in your planning.

Well, I seem to have hit a goldmine here! Had no idea you had a place in Iznik OC. What is the name of your compound? Will certainly try to track you down if you are there when I am. As yet unclear but it will be mid-Oct. How is the weather then?

Haven't looked at hotels yet but I'm thinking of 2 nights in Iznik and maybe 1 in Bursa. Then back to IST for a couple of days before my next flight. Thanks for the hotel recs. My first priority with hotels is location in the centre. I prefer not to hire cars when I travel and there are always taxis. And I like to walk. Iznik looks quite small.

gertie, the compound is called Darka. It is two kilometers outside the city on the Yenisehir/Bursa route.

Weather can be anything from 17-28 degrees Centigrade, but you can check on the web.It will be start of foliage season up in the hills but still green around the lake, especially with the olive trees which stay a dull green year round.

Here are some more threads for you :

http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...eyli-iznik.cfm

http://www.fodors.com/community/fodo...cea-turkey.cfm

Thanks for that. I like the sound of the jazz! And Darka is walkable into the centre of town?
Do you happen to know if any of the sites in Iznik/Bursa are closed for renovation this year? That is one reason I am putting off the Black Sea coast until next year.

@ otherchelebi – I wish that I had taken advantage of your generous and gracious offer to visit your compound when I was in Iznik. My loss!

kja, take a rain check on Darka.

gertie, you can take a dolmus for the two kilometer route

or you may be able to rent a bicycle for the day.

@ otherchelebi -- I look forward to the day when I can take advantage of that rain check! :-)

The Spring solstice is supposed to provide one of the best sunsets over Iznik late.

We are ready with our Iznik Nikon. but the overcast sky may not allow one of those fabulous sunsets we photographed in the past.
Check at :

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SVCsqE1Bb0I

OK, have resurrected this thread as I am about to organise my trip. It will be October. Intending to travel by ferry from Istanbul to Yakova to Iznik. 2 nights. Looking at the hotels OC has suggested. Updates? Any suggestions for hotels in Bursa? My priority is somewhere central.
Thanks.

I defer to otherchelebi on all these questions! But, since you asked:

While in Iznik, I stayed at the Camlik. It suited my needs quite well, but has since gotten mixed reviews.
http://www.iznikcamlikmotel.com
You can find reviews on both tripadvisor (where I posted mine) and booking.com (which apparently now allows the option of booking there).

In Bursa, I stayed at the Kent Hotel, which is listed on tripadvisor as being located in Osmangazi, even though it is in Bursa and is, IMO, very well located for visiting the highlights of that city.
http://www.kentotel.com
Again, covered by both tripadvisor and booking

Enjoy!

kja, I have booked 2 nights at the Camlik (for location) then 2 more at Safran Hotel Bursa. Hoping this will do. Not sure whether 2 nights each was good for Iznik and Bursa... I will be in and out of Istanbul and travelling on to UK. Thanks for your input.

I think I mentioned that I found 1 night in Iznik adequate for my purposes, but that was before the recent discoveries of new archeological sites there, and I think you know that I travel HARD, so a bit more time might well be a good idea! Too, as noted above, I didn't take advantage of otherchelebi's generous offer to see Darka, and if you can fit that in, I'll be envious.

While in Bursa, do try to make time for the Muradiye Complex -- IMO, magnificent! And one of my favorite markets in all of Turkey was just outside that complex ... I hope your timing works for including that! Also consider giving some time to the mosques around the Silk Market -- I thought they were interesting for architecture, decoration, and ambience.

I'll look forward to hearing what you think!

Yes kja, I had taken all that into comsideration when I made my plans. Which is why I decided 2 days each for Iznik and Bursa. Thanks for your help. I will hope to get in touch with otherchelebi between now and then. Just checking really that 2 days each was about right. If it is too long, I have no problems sitting in cafes drinking coffee/wine for a while! Then will get the ferry back to Istanbul. Will report back after the event.

You (and OC) might appreciate this story:

There's a photo I took while in Iznik of a local cafe that made it into a set I showed a friend who is from Turkey. There wasn't anything specific that made me select that picture, other than the fact that it was actually in focus ( :-) ) and (I thought) gave a better sense than any of my other shots of compatible camaraderie in a cafe surrounded by some lovely shade trees. My friend looked at the photo, took it out of its sleeve to give it detailed scrutiny, and then commented that there was a sign, in Turkish, saying that families were welcome, but the ONLY people sitting there were men. I hadn't noticed that. ;-)

I'm sure you will find many ways to occupy your time quite enjoyably in this fascinating corner of the world, gertie!

:). Look forward to it kja!

Gertie, Kja, good memory and good planning.

Camlik is well located for walking everywwhere.

There is minibus that will drop you of at Darka, but if we can make it to Izmir at that time, we can pick you up also. Minibus may leave from the bus depot (otogar) or can be flagged on the main road.

Otherwise, Darka is almost exactly two kilos from the Yenisehir gate of the city walls, with a big sign.


there is currently road expansion construction towards and past Darka, including a new bridge over the stream close to Darka which means a longish detour, adding possibly one more kilo to the distance.

You can easily take a larger and more comfortable minibus to Bursa from Iznik.

We will be leaving for Chicago tomorrow and coming back a month later, visiting Seattle, Vancouver, Victoria and Portland during that period. But I will be checking Fodors and Twitter during the trip.

Let me know of your dates in Iznik and/or Istanbul on [email protected]

Thanks OC. Have sent you an e mail: From Gertie at Fodors.

@ OC -- I think ... hope ... that you are safely in the U.S. My best to you and yours; my deepest sympathies to all who are suffering through yet another senseless act.

The highway bridge on Iznik-Bursa is almost complete and no more need for detour.

Some repaving going on in the city.

Some Iznik News :

- the gases in the unopened Roman sarcophagus will be important for archeologists.

- The sunken basilica appears to have a Jewish type burial area next to it.

- Otters were discovered at Iznik lake and have been classified as another protected species.



http://www.gazetejurnal.com.tr/iznik...klar-9914.html

How cool!

Thanks for sharing this news, otherchelebi!

This was a short outing after having our ears vacuumed at Iznik Public Hospital to prepare for our Chicago flights:


In search of newly found #Roman #sarcophagus at #Hisardere #Nicaea, we discovered ancestor tree, its progeny and an ancient village. pic.twitter.com/E1jf6757ED

Unfortunately the only two people we saw in the village, a middle-aged woman of about 35 and an older shepherd had no idea that there was such a discovery.

"a middle-aged woman of about 35"

Shame on you, otherchelebi!

Iznik has some interesting marathons and treks.

The big one the Iznik Ultra is all of 140 kilometres, starting at midnight and ending at one AM twentyfive hours later.

?znik Ultra | ?znik Ko?usu | ?znik Maratonu

i have never met any one who has partici[ated (possibly because they do not survive).

We are at Iznik currently and if we are awake, we may go to the start and finish lines both nights to cheer the intrepid racers.
If we can stay awake and it is not raining and if we remember to take camera we may even take photos and post here.

I'm sure the runners will appreciate your support -- have fun!