klondike

We will have been in the Burgundy area visiting Autun, Beaune and Chalon-s-Saone and will need to leave on Tuesday am to arrive Baron (S.E. of Bordeaux) by Friday early evening. There, we will be staying the weekend with friends before taking off for 5 days in the Dordogne and then return Fri eve. again to spend the weekend with same friends. So we are looking for topography/sights which would contrast that of the Dordogne's (for variety).

We prefer to take non-toll routes unless it gets us through a less-than-inspiring portion of route faster.

My first inclination is to pass via Nevers, Bourges, Chateauroux, Limoges, Perigeux. We are faience collectors and could visit the porcelain museums along the way. But I'm tempted by the Massif Central/Le Puy area as well. Any thoughts?

klondike

ttt

indytravel

Hi klondike,

I've only taken a train from Clermont-Ferrand north through Montluçon then on to Paris. I drove from Le Puy-en-Velay through Ambert and Issoire then back to Le Puy. From there I drove south to Alès.

From Montluçon north the terrain becomes much flatter and less interesting. It was quite the contrast from driving through the Central Massif around Le Puy-en-Velay, Chaise Dieu, Ambert, Issoire etc. Even the rail ride from C-F up to Le Mont-Dore was beautiful as you climbed up into the mountains.

It was like driving in the Smokies, low, rounded mountains covered with trees and unbelievably green in May. One day it was raining off and on. Being in the rain and seeing the patches of sunshine in the distance and vice versa was beautiful. There were even the wisps of fog the same style that gave the Smokey's its name.

In Le Puy-en-Velay you have the most stunning volcanic stumps jutting into the sky and surrounded by the rolling mountains. The one with the church from the early 1000's (1200's maybe?) looks like it's hanging in the sky.

Other little towns I researched that looked interesting were St Nectaire and Thiers. Both are perched on steep hills and tumble down to the valley below.

You're close and/or in the Auvergne region here. The cheeses are spectacular. St Nectaire, Forme Ambert bleu, and cantal are all delicious. See if you can find cantal doux (soft) it is like butter, smooth, creamy and delicious.

Either route you should be able to go through Limoges if you choose. Don't forget the somber Oradour-sur-Glan is outside Limoges. It's the town left as-is after the Nazi's massacred the entire population.

Hopefully someone else can extol the virtues of the Nevers, Bourges Chateauroux, Limoges, Perigeux route. Heaven forbid your decision be easy.

Underhill

I'd give Nevers a miss. We drove through one time and spent hours behind a string of smelly trucks, although by now there may be a bypass. So if you go that route, go around the city, not through it!

Gien is famous for its pottery--you might consider that for a stop. Nearby, in Les Bézards, is the very good Auberge des Templiers hotel/restaurant.

Michael

Don't miss the porcelain museum in Limoges.

klondike

Thanks Everyone. Nevers is also a faience center and has a couple of famous churches; The website looked interesting, noting they've worked very hard on improving the historic areas and the waterway, which now has a pedestrian path along it. But I don't know-- since Gien is about half the size of Nevers and we prefer smaller towns.

Thanks for hotel/resto recommendation, Underhill. That's half the fun of the experience.