Burgundy, France

Old May 13th, 2012, 08:27 AM
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Byron, I can recommend Le Relais Fleuri in Avallon. It's right off A6 exit 22 with signage plentiful. It's beautiful, relaxing and the food was superb. For lunch we dined on Charollais beef with mushroom confiture, jambon terrine, escargot, trout en crote. Since we were not expecting to dine in such a lovely setting we were in jeans and running shoes for the trip but never felt inadequately dressed here.
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Old May 13th, 2012, 11:53 AM
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You didn't mention anything else about biking in your latest post so let me know if you want some tips about biking and I'll be happy to provide them.
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Old May 13th, 2012, 02:48 PM
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Do you have the ancient abbey of Fontenay on your list? If not, it should be.

We really, really like Autun; don't miss the wrought-iron grill at the Lycée-Bonaparte. The nearby Château Rochepot is worth a visit as well. The Musée Rolin is excellent, as is the lapidary museum.

If the small restaurant opposite the cathedral is still in business, try the steak au Roquefort. Yum!
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Old May 13th, 2012, 03:21 PM
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Thanks everyone. I need to clarify the car. We are only going to have a car in burgundy. We will then drop the car off somewhere and train in to Paris and stay in the Marais. We will not have a car in Paris, so I wanted to clarify that for Stu.

Also, we will have our big meal at night. Light lunches but wanted to know if anyone had recommendations for small good cafes for lunch.

Regarding the bicycles, we are ow thinking we will do more walking. Not enough time to go on a bicycle trip this time.

We will go Dijon for sure but due to distance and comments on this board, we won't be ale to go to Beaune. We only have three full days after we arrive the day before from a long overseas flight. So we want to see the best places given we are staying at Massangis.

THANK YOU EVERYONE
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Old May 13th, 2012, 04:10 PM
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Europcar has offices in both Auxerre and Troyes...
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Old May 25th, 2012, 05:37 AM
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We are photographers and spend part of every year in Burgundy. we always pick up and drop off our car at Orly..... It is easy, but for me I would ask for the Coordinates for the GPS.Since we pick up our car there we put down a marker....makes things easier.I realize that you are not going to get your car there, but it is easier getting the car there , too, because it is right off the A6 that goes right down to Burgundy.If you will be close to Avallon and have a night or two to stay we love this place... Nabe stayed there many times. www.maisoncremeanglaise
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Old May 27th, 2012, 07:26 AM
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We have been doing more research. We need some more advice. As mentioned, we are staying four nights in Massangis.

Thoughts on our itnerary:

Day one arrive from overseas flight. Settle into the B&B. Have a nice walk and a nice dinner.

Day 2 - We will have a rental car. Massangis to Noyers to Chablis to Auxerre to Vezelay to Avallon.

Day 3 - We drive from Massangis to Dijon. Then drive from Dijon go south and then make our way to Chateauneuf and return to Massangis.

Day 4 - We drive from Massangis and go to Semur en Auxois, Abbé de Fontenay and Ancy le Franc.

That's all the time we have. I know it may sound like a lot. We are very active and usually see a lot in each day. Can you comment on this portfolio and any places you think we are missing that are a must see. A location in the daily itineraries for lunch and for an afternoon treat would be appreciated.
Thank you everyone.
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Old May 27th, 2012, 12:10 PM
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It sounds like a lot. Yep. Two days visit in each day. You need to knock a place out for each day (keep as a plan B)
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Old May 27th, 2012, 12:17 PM
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We were worried about that. Thanks for your comments Bilboburgler.
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Old May 27th, 2012, 04:41 PM
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Day 2 is doable as long as Avallon is not your "top" site for the day. If you run out of time - skip Avallon.

Day 3 - what do you mean by "go south" from Dijon. Beaune??? Where is Chateauneuf?? I could look it up - but there must be hundreds of cities in France starting with Chateauneuf. What's there?

Day 4 should not be a problem at all - as long as you remember that Ancy le Franc closes for lunch & has a guided tour. Find out what time the tours depart. We actually prefer Tanlay.

Stu Dudley
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Old May 27th, 2012, 04:47 PM
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I love Avallon, have stayed seversl times in the woods at the Moulin Des Ruats, because of its bucolic location and because it's the only place I know that serves a real Truite Bleu. The fish must come fresh from the water and into the pot.
POne of my favcorite writers, MFK FISHER, tasted her first blue trout there.
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Old May 27th, 2012, 06:17 PM
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We don't know Stu but thought Chatrauneuf was some place we should go but we understand your comment. Any places you think we should see that are not listed? You have helped us in the past.

Thanks everyone. Always appreciate your comments.
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Old May 27th, 2012, 09:16 PM
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On day 3, get an early start and try to visit both Dijon & Beaune. These are "must sees", IMO.

On day 4, get to Tanlay at 10 & take the 1 hr guided tour (it is closed on Tues). Then over to Noyers for a walk-around & lunch (we had a nice lunch there at an outside cafe). Then get to Ancy le Franc at 2pm for their tour. Then off to Fontenay. Remember to save your admission ticket at the first chateau for discounts on the other chateaux.

Visit Semur en Auxois after Avallon on day 2 if there is time left in the day. Obviously, skip Noyers on that day.

We have not visited Avallon, and our only visit to Chablis was in the 70s. We were in Burgundy for 2 weeks in '09 - staying in a gite near Beaune. We preferred Noyers over Semur - although Semur looked better from the outside.

Stu Dudley
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Old May 28th, 2012, 04:18 PM
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Stu, we are trying to fit your suggestions in our itinerary. Helpful as always. Can you explain what the two tours are about? Thank you.
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Old May 28th, 2012, 09:17 PM
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Interiors of medieval defense castles, which were later transformed into residences. Educate yourself - get a Michelin Green Guide to Burgundy and read about them. There are another 25 or so chateaux scattered around Burgundy & Beaujolais that are quite fascinating. There are brochures in the hotels & B&Bs that describe the chateaux that are open for viewing in the region. We visited at around 15 of them while in Burgundy & Beaujolais for 4 weeks in '08.

Stu Dudley
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Old May 29th, 2012, 02:51 AM
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Thanks Stu. We do have the Michelin book but it doesn't say anything about Tanlay so that is why I asked for further assistance. When I read Trip Advisor, I heard pros and cons about Tanlay. We are starting to do a lot of planning and you're right that is key. We will be going to Dijon. However, we've heard conflicting information - big city - just go to the old part. We've heard go to Beaune but not as nice as Dijon. We will continue to research. Ps we loved Versailles so these chateaus we know will all be very different. Thank you again. Ps if you know a place for lunch I either Dijon or Beaune you'd recommend let us know. We keep our special meal at dinner but always like to find great little bistros for lunch.

Thank you again.
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Old May 29th, 2012, 06:19 AM
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Tanlay is in my Michelin Green Guide. They give it a ** rating - their second highest. When I got out my brochure of "Route des Ducs de Bourgogne" which lists 16 Chateaux that are open to the public in Burgundy (plus Fontenay Abbey) I now see Ch Chateauneuf. Michelin gives it a * rating. Ancy is **.
http://www.chateaux-france.com/tanlay

Just about every large city in France has an old section and a new section. Of course, only visit the old section. Like I've stated may times on Fodors, Dijon is my favorite city in France after Paris. Get a copy of the Owl walk & follow it.

Beaune is different - but it is in my "top 5" list of medium sized cities in France - along with Colmar, Sarlat, Albi, and Vannes.

I never use Trip Advisor, because I don't trust it. As far as I know, there is no way to find out if a person reviewing some site has spent years vacationing in France, or just 4 days and is passing judgement with limited background. I trust the Michelin Guide and Cadogan the most.

Stu Dudley
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Old May 29th, 2012, 12:34 PM
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Thanks Stu. Appreciate the help.
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Old May 29th, 2012, 03:24 PM
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Which Michelin Guide do you have? The one for Burgundy contains information on the Château de Tanlay; it's on page 306. And it's definitely worth a visit, being one of the not very many châteaux that look lived in.

I get excellent information on the TripAdvisor site, and often provide some as well. Stu, look for the Destination Experts, often residents in France. They know their stuff.
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Old May 29th, 2012, 05:35 PM
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Underhill, my husband bought the one called Burgundy Jura. I am thinking it may not be the one you reference.
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