Burgundy dining
 

My husband & I are going to Burgundy in May. We spend 6 days on the barge Luciole on the Canal de Neverais. The barge provides excursions to Auxerre, Chablis area, Avallon, Vezelay, Clamecy. We disembark on a Saturday at Auxerre where we pick up our rental car by 11 am. We spend 3+ days in Burgundy and besides wine tasting want wonderful food. Maybe one splurge 2 or 3 star restaurant and other high quality food. We like warm, traditional atmosphere and friendly (not stuffy), hospitable service. The first night we stay at Chatesu Vault de Lagney, half way between Vezelay and Avallon. So we could do our splurge at L'Esparance or Bernard Loiseau (are choices so limited at lunch as to miss the experience?). I have heard good things about Le Calibressan?? Sunday we drive toward Beaune. We stay at Le Cep for 2 nights. So we could do the splurge here at Lameloise (or Georges Blanc or La Cote d'Or). Can someone compare L'Esperance with Lameloise? In Beaune area we also have heard good things about Hostellerie de Levernois and Vieux Moulin. We'd like to try Olivier Leflavive for a lunch and paired wines. And what about La Rotisserie du Gevrey-Chambertin? Which places are best for lunch and which for dinner? Then we head west (probably via Autun?) for the Loire valley (for 3 days) and may need lunch along the way. Finally, we need to know how to lose 10 pounds once we finish our sojourn? Many thanks for your suggestions.

The 3* Georges Blanc is absolutely wonderful, and the food at the Hostellerie du Vieux Moulin, while only 1*, is also very good. The difference, of course, is the presentation; if you want a major experience, head to Georges Blanc. Staying there is also very nice, although it gave us a life-long lust for Bresse furniture.

My husband and I and another couple are doing the same trip in September on the Luciole. Please post a trip report when you get back -- I'd love to hear all about it. Anticipation is half the fun. Thanks!

Olivier Leflaive is fantastic. Be prepared to spend the best part of an afternoon there. I would suggest you choose the more expensive wine pairings - a difference of E10 but worth it. In Beaune you might consider Ramparts for a special meal (they have a great degustation menu) or Ma Cuisine for great meal in a more relaxed atmosphere (reservation required). A google search of Ma Cuisine Beaune will bring rave reviews.

What a trip! Le château de Vault de Lugny looks very nice and had good reviews. And all the restaurants and hotels you mentioned are amongst the best in Burgundy. You will have a wonderful trip (though Dijon is missing ;-))
As soon as I win the lottery %%- I want to do the same thing!
I think we'll be all waiting for your trip report!

With great sadness I recommend against L'Esperance. For years it was our favorite restaurant in the world. We went there when it had one, then two, then three, then back to two and now back to three stars again. The last time was not so good, however, and it has changed my philosophy of dining. Search here on L'Ecusson and you will find my report of our trip to Burgundy, Brittany and Lake Geneva that explains my epiphany. It contains info on our happy experience at Lafaive and our wonderful meals at L'Ecusson (1 star in Beaune) and Stephan Derbaud (1 star in Dijon) which I do recommend. I'll be looking forward to your report on your decision and your experience.

Thanks for the info so far, additional input welcome. I will write about the Luciole when we return and will soon post as to where we decide to indulge our palates.

In Beaune I had a wonderful meal about six years ago at a restaurant called La Cave. It was not far from the Hospice if I remember correctly.

You mentioned Le Calibressan and I've just read on the local paper that it is all non smoking now.
If you can read French here is an article about non smoking law and its application in restaurants in Côte d'Or :

http://www.bienpublic.com/region/200...0110.html?0809
I hope that someday, we'll get a listing with all the "real" non smoking restaurants!

The October 2005 issue of "Saveur" magazine had a nice spread on the Auberge du Cep in Fleurie in the Beaujolais). The chef is a woman who specializeds in traditional Burgundian dishes, for which she is famous. The restaurant is located on the Place de l'Eglise.