Burgundy Area of France
Nov 17th, 2006, 06:15 AM
#3
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Hi VT,
Burgundy is a wonderful area of France. If food and wine and beautiful scenery are high on your list, you will have a marvellous time. Check out my Burgundy photos:
http://tinyurl.com/m39xz
We stayed in Beaune which gives you the option of walking a great city with cafes, wine caves and historic points of interest plus being situated for fabulous drives to the surrounding countryside. What are your interests?
Burgundy is a wonderful area of France. If food and wine and beautiful scenery are high on your list, you will have a marvellous time. Check out my Burgundy photos:
http://tinyurl.com/m39xz
We stayed in Beaune which gives you the option of walking a great city with cafes, wine caves and historic points of interest plus being situated for fabulous drives to the surrounding countryside. What are your interests?
Nov 17th, 2006, 07:14 AM
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Drive the Route des Vin Bourgogne or whatever it's called that runs between Dijon-Beaune-Macon - it follows the foothills on which are numerous world-renown wine houses, where you can stop off for samples and to buy directly from the proprietor. Sweet small acclaimed wine towns like Nuits-Saints-Georges dot the road. Beaune is a fine fine regional town and in many ways the commercial center i believe of the Burgundy wine industry - it would make a great place to stay, offering day trips either way on the wine road.
On the edge of Burgundy i would highly recommend Vezelay and its famous cathedral that once was said to house the bones of Mary Magdalene i believe and in the Middle Ages was one of Europe's top Christian pilgrimmage meccas. Today is a wonderful lost-in-time village draped over a hill overlooking the chequered Burgundy countryside.
On the edge of Burgundy i would highly recommend Vezelay and its famous cathedral that once was said to house the bones of Mary Magdalene i believe and in the Middle Ages was one of Europe's top Christian pilgrimmage meccas. Today is a wonderful lost-in-time village draped over a hill overlooking the chequered Burgundy countryside.
Nov 17th, 2006, 07:39 AM
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Dijon, for a larger city, is often overlooked but is very nice so don't neglect the Capital of Burgundy and i believe the seats of the former Counts of Burgundy. Take the Owl Trail for a real hoot!
Nov 17th, 2006, 07:48 AM
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Hi Pal, I was just about to write how sad I was you forgot Dijon but you didn't, thanks! 
VT, have a look at www.cotedor-tourisme.com to find info about what to see and where to go.
and here are my pics of Dijon :
http://tinyurl.com/okerl
and for the owl's trail : http://www.dijon-tourism.com/uk/dijo...s_chouette.htm
Welcome to Burgundy!
coco
VT, have a look at www.cotedor-tourisme.com to find info about what to see and where to go.
and here are my pics of Dijon :
http://tinyurl.com/okerl
and for the owl's trail : http://www.dijon-tourism.com/uk/dijo...s_chouette.htm
Welcome to Burgundy!
coco
Nov 17th, 2006, 09:41 AM
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Cher coco: forget Dijon - jamais. And if anyone's looking for a neat place to stay investigate Coco's flat she rents out and which has gotten rave reviews from several Fodorites who've stayed there. Great base for Burgundy. Salut!
Nov 17th, 2006, 12:38 PM
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Robjame, your pictures are wonderful. Have you done a trip report? I would love to read about the experiences that go with the pictures. Did you like Hostellerie de Bretonniere? Which room type do you think was the nicest/quietest? (It is hard to tell from the website.)
Nov 17th, 2006, 02:53 PM
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Thanks for the kind comments on the Burgundy pictures. Some of them are badly out of focus but after a few glasses of wine they look fine.
Here are three highlights of the area that we would strongly recommend. Curiously they all have to do with food and drink....
Olivier Leflaive
This has got to be one of the best kept secrets in Burgundy. Taste 10 of the finest wines from a particular region - some over €50 premier and grand crus - have a gourmet lunch with foods from the area, have a discussion about wines with a vintner who really knows his stuff and is both funny and personable ...all for €33 each. There were only 6 of us and the cheese puffs, the foie gras, the jambon persille (a terrine of coarsely chopped ham in a parsley gelatin peculiar to Burgundy), the Brest chicken with local mushrooms and vegetables and the delices were wonderful but this day is all about wine education and sampling Burgundies.
For four hours Pascal led us through a selection of wines from Puligny-Montrachet vineyards which ranged from €6 - €54 a bottle. We learned more about wine, how to taste wine, how to find what you like in wine, growing grapes and the winemaking process. And all this takes place in an intimate second floor restaurant, overlooking a sleepy square in a quaint town in one of the (arguably) most beautiful regions of France. Definitely one of the highlights.
Le Caveau Delagrange
Le Pommard
This was one of those serendipity things that resulted in one of the modt delightful experiences snd most excellent meals so far. After our amazing deguststion lunch at Olivier Leflaive in Puligny-Montrachet, we drove happily through the Burgundian countryside marvelling at the miles of vineyards and the ubiquitous signs inviting us to try and buy their wares. We walked through several small villages whose names we knew from the labels of wine bottles - Santanay, Mersault, Gamay, Volnay. At seven o'clock we stopped in Pommard and stumbled upon a restaurant called Le Pommard, a confusing collection of several eating places all owned by Phillipe Delegrange. The intimate section we were taken to was in the cellar appropriately named 'Le Caveau'.
We opted for one of the €25 menus. The amuse bouche was an inverted cone of small shrimp and green and red peppers suspended in a parsley gelatine. Scrumptious.
Sandra had the salade de chevre et larde which unexpectedly was a mixte salad under two large, lightly breaded disks of goat cheese wrapped in bacon. These cheese delights were amazing. Thankfully there was enough that I got a good sampling. Out of deference to the area I had six escargots sizzling in parsley butter - about as good as you can imagine.
Both had the boeuf bourguigonne so there was no tradesies. The chunks of charolais beef in the brown gravy of red wine, onions, mushrooms and specks of bacon was unbelievable. Also on the plate were creamy scalloped potatoes, broccoli, pearl onions, snow peas, sauted leek, and a baked cherry tomato. All perfectly cooked. We cleaned our plates with the exception of the little round of garlic bread that was somewhat out of place.
One of the included desserts we chose was a crème brulee au marc de bourgogne for me. Although an interesting twist, I was left wondering why mess with simple perfection. The eau de vie was just too dominant a taste. Sandra's molleaux de deux chocolats et sa crème anglaise was a picture. The thin chocolate cupcake contained a molten chocolate interior contrasted with the white english cream sauce it rested in. Surround the whole with grape halves, strawberries and mint leaves. Makes you want to whip up one of those for supper tonight!
Two lovely chocolate mousse tartlets with a couple of espressos and dinner's done.
This place is within 10 minutes drive of Beaune and French was the dominant language. I think this place is a gem in an idyllic setting. Just don't tell too many others.
Ma Cuisine
Phillipe Escovier must be continuing to do well. Their tiny restaurant, down an almost hidden passage in Beaune is open only four days a week. The 'Restaurant Complet' sign hangs most nights so if it is on your list, phone well in advance. The night we were there one table did not show, Phillipe removed the 'full' sign at about 9 o'clock and within minutes, there were customers to fill the void.
Beaune is my kind of place. The emphasis is wine and food but you can fill the spaces between drinking and eating with forays into the beautiful countryside.
After our obligatory kir royales, I began with foie gras which though buttery was a tad coarser than what I had had in Paris which may well describe this restaurant. No tablecloths or fancy dressed waiters interfere with you dining experience. The amuse bouche is a jar of cornichons from which you help yourself. Sandra's choice was green asparagus with a lovely mousseline sauce which came in a separate dish - a nice touch allowing her to add sufficient.
Sandra's cote de veau rote avec champignons produced four large chops with mushrooms and roast potatoes. Done medium rare they were succulent. My ris a veau braise a la crème was a large helping of sweetbreads (and I ain't talking cinnamon bread here folks) with morels in an ultra rich cream sauce. You either like sweetbreads or not - the flavor is a slightly 'livery' tender morsel - most delicious but very rich.
Our choice of the cheese plate brought four cheeses from the region. We both loved the strongest a creamy eposses. Wow.
We trusted Phillipe's wine recommendation and he chose wisely - a reasonably priced white burgundy with sufficient strength to compliment the meat dishes.
A very interesting restaurant that comes with recommendations from several gourmet experts, it is a worthwhile experience.
Here are three highlights of the area that we would strongly recommend. Curiously they all have to do with food and drink....
Olivier Leflaive
This has got to be one of the best kept secrets in Burgundy. Taste 10 of the finest wines from a particular region - some over €50 premier and grand crus - have a gourmet lunch with foods from the area, have a discussion about wines with a vintner who really knows his stuff and is both funny and personable ...all for €33 each. There were only 6 of us and the cheese puffs, the foie gras, the jambon persille (a terrine of coarsely chopped ham in a parsley gelatin peculiar to Burgundy), the Brest chicken with local mushrooms and vegetables and the delices were wonderful but this day is all about wine education and sampling Burgundies.
For four hours Pascal led us through a selection of wines from Puligny-Montrachet vineyards which ranged from €6 - €54 a bottle. We learned more about wine, how to taste wine, how to find what you like in wine, growing grapes and the winemaking process. And all this takes place in an intimate second floor restaurant, overlooking a sleepy square in a quaint town in one of the (arguably) most beautiful regions of France. Definitely one of the highlights.
Le Caveau Delagrange
Le Pommard
This was one of those serendipity things that resulted in one of the modt delightful experiences snd most excellent meals so far. After our amazing deguststion lunch at Olivier Leflaive in Puligny-Montrachet, we drove happily through the Burgundian countryside marvelling at the miles of vineyards and the ubiquitous signs inviting us to try and buy their wares. We walked through several small villages whose names we knew from the labels of wine bottles - Santanay, Mersault, Gamay, Volnay. At seven o'clock we stopped in Pommard and stumbled upon a restaurant called Le Pommard, a confusing collection of several eating places all owned by Phillipe Delegrange. The intimate section we were taken to was in the cellar appropriately named 'Le Caveau'.
We opted for one of the €25 menus. The amuse bouche was an inverted cone of small shrimp and green and red peppers suspended in a parsley gelatine. Scrumptious.
Sandra had the salade de chevre et larde which unexpectedly was a mixte salad under two large, lightly breaded disks of goat cheese wrapped in bacon. These cheese delights were amazing. Thankfully there was enough that I got a good sampling. Out of deference to the area I had six escargots sizzling in parsley butter - about as good as you can imagine.
Both had the boeuf bourguigonne so there was no tradesies. The chunks of charolais beef in the brown gravy of red wine, onions, mushrooms and specks of bacon was unbelievable. Also on the plate were creamy scalloped potatoes, broccoli, pearl onions, snow peas, sauted leek, and a baked cherry tomato. All perfectly cooked. We cleaned our plates with the exception of the little round of garlic bread that was somewhat out of place.
One of the included desserts we chose was a crème brulee au marc de bourgogne for me. Although an interesting twist, I was left wondering why mess with simple perfection. The eau de vie was just too dominant a taste. Sandra's molleaux de deux chocolats et sa crème anglaise was a picture. The thin chocolate cupcake contained a molten chocolate interior contrasted with the white english cream sauce it rested in. Surround the whole with grape halves, strawberries and mint leaves. Makes you want to whip up one of those for supper tonight!
Two lovely chocolate mousse tartlets with a couple of espressos and dinner's done.
This place is within 10 minutes drive of Beaune and French was the dominant language. I think this place is a gem in an idyllic setting. Just don't tell too many others.
Ma Cuisine
Phillipe Escovier must be continuing to do well. Their tiny restaurant, down an almost hidden passage in Beaune is open only four days a week. The 'Restaurant Complet' sign hangs most nights so if it is on your list, phone well in advance. The night we were there one table did not show, Phillipe removed the 'full' sign at about 9 o'clock and within minutes, there were customers to fill the void.
Beaune is my kind of place. The emphasis is wine and food but you can fill the spaces between drinking and eating with forays into the beautiful countryside.
After our obligatory kir royales, I began with foie gras which though buttery was a tad coarser than what I had had in Paris which may well describe this restaurant. No tablecloths or fancy dressed waiters interfere with you dining experience. The amuse bouche is a jar of cornichons from which you help yourself. Sandra's choice was green asparagus with a lovely mousseline sauce which came in a separate dish - a nice touch allowing her to add sufficient.
Sandra's cote de veau rote avec champignons produced four large chops with mushrooms and roast potatoes. Done medium rare they were succulent. My ris a veau braise a la crème was a large helping of sweetbreads (and I ain't talking cinnamon bread here folks) with morels in an ultra rich cream sauce. You either like sweetbreads or not - the flavor is a slightly 'livery' tender morsel - most delicious but very rich.
Our choice of the cheese plate brought four cheeses from the region. We both loved the strongest a creamy eposses. Wow.
We trusted Phillipe's wine recommendation and he chose wisely - a reasonably priced white burgundy with sufficient strength to compliment the meat dishes.
A very interesting restaurant that comes with recommendations from several gourmet experts, it is a worthwhile experience.
Nov 17th, 2006, 05:03 PM
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Dijon is a wonderful city, and Coco's apartment is in a great location to walk to many sights. In addition to its being very convenient and beautiful, Coco has it filled with everything to make a guest feel more at home. Forget your toothbrush (or shampoo, conditioner,you-name-it)--no problem, there's a new one there for you!
Dijon is a super base for Burgundy, IMO, just 30 miles north of Beaune.
www.myhomeindijon.com
Dijon is a super base for Burgundy, IMO, just 30 miles north of Beaune.
www.myhomeindijon.com
Nov 18th, 2006, 02:15 AM
#16
Olivier Lafleve as mentioned above is a lovely man and his wine is wonderful. He has a stroke a few years ago but my femail friends say he still makes their hearts flutter.
There is a nice little hotel in Nuit St george on the West of the main road and two restaurants (one star) all within walking distance. Search under......
Note that the main road which parrallels the motorway is the favorite speed and drink driving road for the area.
Best trading post for wines is the CAves des haut cote. In and amongst the young wines of the Coop are the old wines they have bought back from their owners to sell on after being stored for ages in old cellars. Since the French don't generally like old wine the prices are good.
If uncertain, buy a bottle and ask the staff to open it so "we can share it with you". Amazingly the whole staff will turn up to help you taste the wine at which pooint yu will have 15 new friends
There is a nice little hotel in Nuit St george on the West of the main road and two restaurants (one star) all within walking distance. Search under......
Note that the main road which parrallels the motorway is the favorite speed and drink driving road for the area.
Best trading post for wines is the CAves des haut cote. In and amongst the young wines of the Coop are the old wines they have bought back from their owners to sell on after being stored for ages in old cellars. Since the French don't generally like old wine the prices are good.
If uncertain, buy a bottle and ask the staff to open it so "we can share it with you". Amazingly the whole staff will turn up to help you taste the wine at which pooint yu will have 15 new friends
Nov 18th, 2006, 03:26 AM
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Nov 18th, 2006, 03:36 AM
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The southermost portion of Burgundy, Beaujolais, is an area of rolling hills and small villages. It is for my money one of the prettiest place in France. It is sort of an undiscovered Tuscany. Good wine tasting too. Any good guide book will tell you more.
Nov 18th, 2006, 06:06 AM
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bilbo - what a great idea for sharing a bottle of wine
ira - no that is not the place in Pommard. It is on the corner and here is their restaurant including pictures and menu...
http://tinyurl.com/yyp7oe
In my Burgundy pictures above it is the food pictures in the cave-like setting, with the boeuf bourguignon.
Sandrs keeps talking about making the chocolate cake dessert with the molten chocolate lava inside - maybe for Christmas.
ira - no that is not the place in Pommard. It is on the corner and here is their restaurant including pictures and menu...
http://tinyurl.com/yyp7oe
In my Burgundy pictures above it is the food pictures in the cave-like setting, with the boeuf bourguignon.
Sandrs keeps talking about making the chocolate cake dessert with the molten chocolate lava inside - maybe for Christmas.
