Budapest Trip Report
Sep 8th, 2004, 10:46 AM
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Budapest Trip Report
Recently I had to go to Budapest on business and was able to arrive a couple days early for some sightseeing. Here are some highlights of my trip:
Hotel: Stayed at the Art'otel on the Buda side of the river. Beautiful, modern 4-star hotel that I would never have stayed in if my company wasn't paying (so I don't know the price per night. We had a conference here and booked a special rate.) Includes the biggest buffet breakfast I have ever seen anywhere in Europe. Good reviews also on TripAdvisor.
As I mentioned in a previous thread about Budapest, I took the Airport Minibus shuttle from the airport to the hotel for 2100 forint, about $11 one way.
Sights: There's a lot to see here! Some of my favorites:
St. Matthias and St. Steven's churches. St. Matthias is painted from top to bottom--a mix of art nouveau, turkish, neo-gothic, but believe it or not, it works. I don't remember much about St. Steven's except for the mummified hand of the saint in their reliquary.
Parliament. I didn't tour it but it is an extremely visible and impressive presence from anywhere along the river. They have english-speaking tours available.
Castle Hill Area. Buda castle is a spectacular building. I went to the Budapest History Museum which was located in one wing. Spotty english on the signage so I didn't always know what I was looking at. Extensive information in Hungarian and German.
Castle Labyrinth. This is one of the weirdest places I've ever visited anywhere. It's a labyrinth of connected caves under the castle area. No history or anything, this seems to be all about the atmosphere and the experience. It was creepy and scary with sound effects and no signs to guide you through. I got there right when they opened and was the only one there, which added to the creep factor. If you're claustrophobic or easily weirded out, skip it.
Commerce and Catering Museum. Not as boring as it sounds. I especially enjoyed the commerce side, which showed Hungarian advertising, packaging, products, etc., from the last hundred years or so.
The Great Market Hall in Pest. Food stalls on the lower level, crafts on the upper. If you want embroidery, this is the place to go.
Statue Park. About 30 minutes outside the city. There's a bus that leaves a few times a day from near the Le Meridian Hotel in Pest. Price of ticket includes round trip bus and admission to the park. Contains many statues from the communist era of Hungary. I was fooled by the word "park"--thinking I'd go and spend the day walking along tree lined paths, sitting on the grass admiring the statues. Wrong. The park is a scrubby bit of land, right on the edge of a surburban neighborhood--no trees, no grass, communist-era toilet paper in the WC. Adds to the effect though. Worth seeing but I came back on the next bus.
St. Margaret Island. This island in the Danube IS a park, and a beautiful one at that. Very lush and green--really an oasis in the city.
The pool at the Gellert Hotel. One of the spas in Budapest, this one is beautiful--art nouveau statuary, mosiac tilework. A hot pool indoors, one outdoors and a wave pool outside as well.
Aquincum. This is a Roman excavation in Obuda, the ancient part of the city. I'm a sucker for the stuff--if the Romans were there I want to be, too. The excavated city and the museum were nice, but the setting was disappointing--Obuda, the oldest part of the city is full of apartment projects, strip malls, highway on and off ramps. I tried to find the military amphitheatre and a place called Hercules Villa, but it required a hike through one of these apartment complexes, so I gave up and went back to Buda.
To be continued...
Hotel: Stayed at the Art'otel on the Buda side of the river. Beautiful, modern 4-star hotel that I would never have stayed in if my company wasn't paying (so I don't know the price per night. We had a conference here and booked a special rate.) Includes the biggest buffet breakfast I have ever seen anywhere in Europe. Good reviews also on TripAdvisor.
As I mentioned in a previous thread about Budapest, I took the Airport Minibus shuttle from the airport to the hotel for 2100 forint, about $11 one way.
Sights: There's a lot to see here! Some of my favorites:
St. Matthias and St. Steven's churches. St. Matthias is painted from top to bottom--a mix of art nouveau, turkish, neo-gothic, but believe it or not, it works. I don't remember much about St. Steven's except for the mummified hand of the saint in their reliquary.
Parliament. I didn't tour it but it is an extremely visible and impressive presence from anywhere along the river. They have english-speaking tours available.
Castle Hill Area. Buda castle is a spectacular building. I went to the Budapest History Museum which was located in one wing. Spotty english on the signage so I didn't always know what I was looking at. Extensive information in Hungarian and German.
Castle Labyrinth. This is one of the weirdest places I've ever visited anywhere. It's a labyrinth of connected caves under the castle area. No history or anything, this seems to be all about the atmosphere and the experience. It was creepy and scary with sound effects and no signs to guide you through. I got there right when they opened and was the only one there, which added to the creep factor. If you're claustrophobic or easily weirded out, skip it.
Commerce and Catering Museum. Not as boring as it sounds. I especially enjoyed the commerce side, which showed Hungarian advertising, packaging, products, etc., from the last hundred years or so.
The Great Market Hall in Pest. Food stalls on the lower level, crafts on the upper. If you want embroidery, this is the place to go.
Statue Park. About 30 minutes outside the city. There's a bus that leaves a few times a day from near the Le Meridian Hotel in Pest. Price of ticket includes round trip bus and admission to the park. Contains many statues from the communist era of Hungary. I was fooled by the word "park"--thinking I'd go and spend the day walking along tree lined paths, sitting on the grass admiring the statues. Wrong. The park is a scrubby bit of land, right on the edge of a surburban neighborhood--no trees, no grass, communist-era toilet paper in the WC. Adds to the effect though. Worth seeing but I came back on the next bus.
St. Margaret Island. This island in the Danube IS a park, and a beautiful one at that. Very lush and green--really an oasis in the city.
The pool at the Gellert Hotel. One of the spas in Budapest, this one is beautiful--art nouveau statuary, mosiac tilework. A hot pool indoors, one outdoors and a wave pool outside as well.
Aquincum. This is a Roman excavation in Obuda, the ancient part of the city. I'm a sucker for the stuff--if the Romans were there I want to be, too. The excavated city and the museum were nice, but the setting was disappointing--Obuda, the oldest part of the city is full of apartment projects, strip malls, highway on and off ramps. I tried to find the military amphitheatre and a place called Hercules Villa, but it required a hike through one of these apartment complexes, so I gave up and went back to Buda.
To be continued...
Sep 8th, 2004, 10:47 AM
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Other bits of info:
I bought a three day Budapest card--a combination museum pass and transportation card, but none of the museums I visited took it so I mostly used it for transportation. At 5400 forint, absolutely NOT worth it for transportation alone. Check the list of included sights before purchasing (I wish I had.)
Getting around the city was pretty easy. There's a small subway system (just three lines), an extensive tram and bus system, and a suburban train, the HEV (like the RER in Paris.) And it's a great city for walking. There's a nice pedestrian/bike path along the river, and the bridges have nice wide sidewalks. In Pest there are some pedestrian shopping streets.
The food. It was OK but I was craving vegetables by the end of my trip. They're big on meat, potatoes. Cabbage and cucumbers were what I saw on most menus, although I admit I ordered my favorite tomato-basil-mozzarella salad whenever it was available (and I had it a few times.) I tried every kind of strudel--apple, cherry, poppyseed, cheese, and liked them all.
Things to buy:
Paprika! In tins, in bags, in jars, in Goulash Soup kits. In one restaurant, we were treated to some pepper brandy that I absolutely loved. It tasted spicy like cinnamon. Tried to find some to bring home but no luck.
Embroidery. I saw all sizes of items from coasters to bedspreads, and every quality level.
Ceramics. There's some famous expensive Hungarian porcelain, but the cheap stuff is more my style. I bought a cute wine jug in the shape of a little man (called a miszca jug--I'm sure my spelling is wrong) which I absolutely love.
There's also tons of leather, carved wooden boxes, beaded bags, also in every quality and price level.
That's it! I really enjoyed Budapest and would definitely return--perhaps a Big Three Eastern Europe city tour with Prague and Vienna!
If you have questions please ask!
Patti
I bought a three day Budapest card--a combination museum pass and transportation card, but none of the museums I visited took it so I mostly used it for transportation. At 5400 forint, absolutely NOT worth it for transportation alone. Check the list of included sights before purchasing (I wish I had.)
Getting around the city was pretty easy. There's a small subway system (just three lines), an extensive tram and bus system, and a suburban train, the HEV (like the RER in Paris.) And it's a great city for walking. There's a nice pedestrian/bike path along the river, and the bridges have nice wide sidewalks. In Pest there are some pedestrian shopping streets.
The food. It was OK but I was craving vegetables by the end of my trip. They're big on meat, potatoes. Cabbage and cucumbers were what I saw on most menus, although I admit I ordered my favorite tomato-basil-mozzarella salad whenever it was available (and I had it a few times.) I tried every kind of strudel--apple, cherry, poppyseed, cheese, and liked them all.
Things to buy:
Paprika! In tins, in bags, in jars, in Goulash Soup kits. In one restaurant, we were treated to some pepper brandy that I absolutely loved. It tasted spicy like cinnamon. Tried to find some to bring home but no luck.
Embroidery. I saw all sizes of items from coasters to bedspreads, and every quality level.
Ceramics. There's some famous expensive Hungarian porcelain, but the cheap stuff is more my style. I bought a cute wine jug in the shape of a little man (called a miszca jug--I'm sure my spelling is wrong) which I absolutely love.
There's also tons of leather, carved wooden boxes, beaded bags, also in every quality and price level.
That's it! I really enjoyed Budapest and would definitely return--perhaps a Big Three Eastern Europe city tour with Prague and Vienna!
If you have questions please ask!
Patti
Sep 9th, 2004, 07:49 PM
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Thanks for the time in writing up your report Patti. Interesting what you said about the Budapest card. We'd been thinking of picking one up as we arrive next month. I should recheck that list as you suggested. Thanks again.
Sep 9th, 2004, 10:12 PM
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Patti, Thanks so much for the advice. We are going to Budapest at Christmas, and I loved your comments, which will help me plan. I am printing your message!
I have looked at the Art'otel but not sure the NZ$ can cope with it.
Thanks again.
I have looked at the Art'otel but not sure the NZ$ can cope with it.
Thanks again.
Nov 4th, 2004, 12:29 PM
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LindaNZ--
I went to Budapest with two girlfriends this summer--we were quasi backpacking. What I mean by quasi is: I DO NOT stay in hostels. So, I found a decent hotel in a GREAT location. It certainly wasn't the Four Seasons, but it was clean, had bathrooms en suite, and had a great breakfast in the morning.
Its in a great location, with nice/chic restaurants right across the square. As with everything in Budapest, despite their atmosphere, the prices are quite reasonable. The Hotel is called the Hotel Medosz. We walked all over the city using it as our base. And I mean we walked everywhere--even into the Buda Hills. Here is a link that might be helpful:
http://www.ohb.hu/medosz/index.en.html
Have fun!
I went to Budapest with two girlfriends this summer--we were quasi backpacking. What I mean by quasi is: I DO NOT stay in hostels. So, I found a decent hotel in a GREAT location. It certainly wasn't the Four Seasons, but it was clean, had bathrooms en suite, and had a great breakfast in the morning.
Its in a great location, with nice/chic restaurants right across the square. As with everything in Budapest, despite their atmosphere, the prices are quite reasonable. The Hotel is called the Hotel Medosz. We walked all over the city using it as our base. And I mean we walked everywhere--even into the Buda Hills. Here is a link that might be helpful:
http://www.ohb.hu/medosz/index.en.html
Have fun!
